how big should a NZ Whites cage be?

[skysthelimit]

Here is a picture of a cage I assembled. It is a 24" x 24" single.

As you will notice, there are edge guards all around the door and door frame. These are handy for not tearing your hands and arms up moving rabbits into and out of the cage.

Also, with these models, I have begun to maximize the space in the unit by installing the feeders in the door itself. That works well on doors which swing out, but not at all on the ones which swing in and up.

Yes I have noticed that I have problems fitting feeders in the spaces, espcially on the cages where the door is wide enough to fit a nest box. I was considering having the door swing side to side, but I like to leave the cages open in the barn while i'm there, so that would make it hard for that.

 

[SatinsRule]

Yeah. All of my cages from here on out will have those swing out type doors. As for leaving them open while I'm in the barn working with the rabbits, it hasn't been a problem at all, and space is a significant consideration for me.

 

[skysthelimit]

Yeah. All of my cages from here on out will have those swing out type doors. As for leaving them open while I'm in the barn working with the rabbits, it hasn't been a problem at all, and space is a significant consideration for me.

The space is tight in my barn. The doors would not lay flat against the cages because of feeders and water bottles. They would stick out into the isles, and I would find myself bumping into the doors, being face to face with them, possibly getting scratched, which I still do sometimes cleaning under the cage with the door folded down. Not all of the doors have guards, I'll pick some more up at the next show.

 

[SatinsRule]

Yeah. All of my cages from here on out will have those swing out type doors. As for leaving them open while I'm in the barn working with the rabbits, it hasn't been a problem at all, and space is a significant consideration for me.

The space is tight in my barn. The doors would not lay flat against the cages because of feeders and water bottles. They would stick out into the isles, and I would find myself bumping into the doors, being face to face with them, possibly getting scratched, which I still do sometimes cleaning under the cage with the door folded down. Not all of the doors have guards, I'll pick some more up at the next show.

Because I use stackable units, I have to allow at least 2.5 feet but usually 3 feet walkways between the rows of cages to be able to periodically (2-3 X per week) empty the waste pans, so I guess I never thought of what you described. Some would likely call my setup a bunch of wasted space, but it's what works for me and it works quite well. I can see how annoying it would become to have j-style feeders sticking out of the doors, or to have the cage doors swinging out into the walkways. Knowing how clumsy I tend to be sometimes, that's just a sharp shot to the kidneys looking for a place to happen.

 

[ottersatin]

If you have cage doors which swing in and up [Which I prefer]
you can create a holder out of wire: An hook if you will.
you hook the door up to the roof while you are working
and can easily let it down when you're done.
just a suggestion.
Ottersatin. C.V.R. ldtimer:

 

[OneAcreFarm]

Is there a significant difference between galvanized wire and regular welded wire from Home Depot?

Yes, the wire at HD is galvanized before weld and the welding destroys the galvanization at the welds. It will rust sooner. Also, that is a cheaper quality wire. You want 14g GAW wire.