I am pretty new at this rabbit buisness. I started out with 3 adult NZs and they were used to being scruffed when I brought them home. I have read it's dangerous and can tear the skin so I attempted to pick them up "correctly" but they attempted to slice me up with the razor blades attached to their feet. They ended up getting scruffed and were successfully bred and no skin tore. So thinking ahead to the next breeding...is it common to scruff rabbits of this size?
To scruff or not to scruff?
- Thread starter Mama583
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Cosima
Well-known member
What is scruffing?
Picking up by the skin on the back of the neck.
Cosima
Well-known member
okay. Scruffing is the only way I can keep my arms intact too. I don’t think you can rip the skin of a rabbit by scruffing him/her. You could try to support their bellies a little bit as long as the rabbits don’t kick or you could put their heads in between your arm and your body. It might calm them down.
Good to know your rabbits haven't experienced any injuries from being picked up that way. The 3 adults weren't handled much in their previous home. I am hoping the young ones I am raising to replace them will be more calm.
Cosima
Well-known member
the babies should be more calm is you handling them. My rabbits are only two kg so maybe wait for a reply from someone with big rabbits like you.
Ok, thanks for the response.
RabbitsOfTheCreek
Netherland Dwarf Breeder & Well-known Member
New Zealand? I definitely wouldn't hold them like that, with all that weight. I've only done it with Kits and a few times when I need to reach back into a cage to grab an aggressive Doe (I have Netherland Dwarfs)
Thank you so much for your input.
Cosima
Well-known member
Try different ways to hold them and hopefully you find a good way to hold them. Maybe ask the breeder you got the rabbits from for advice.
Cosima
Well-known member
I’m might post a picture of how I hold my rabbits.
I will try. Maybe now that they have been with me a while and I have bite gloves I may have better luck. A picture would be nice if you can manage.
I have raised several of the big meat breeds (Satins, New Zealands. Californians) and I have quit scruffing if there is any other option (admittedly , there is occasionally a moment when it is the only choice for the ultimate safety of both human and rabbit). I quit the practice when I talked with an ARBA judge who raised meat breeds, who told me that over time the rabbit's skin separates from the muscle beneath it. Ugh. I have found this to be the case from observations at butchering. So the skin doesn't tear where you can see it, but it sounds pretty painful!
To handle an uncooperative big rabbit, I usually get hold of both ears and scruff with one hand (to immobilize them), and lift the bulk of their weight with my other hand under their hindquarters, then roll them over. Most people then slip the whiole rabbit under their arm, with all four feet sticking out the back. I'm not really partial to that however, as a fiesty rabbit can still kick you or take a bite out of you in a sensitive place. (!) Maybe surprisingly, my best luck carrying them usually comes by rolling them over on their back with their head in the crook of my elbow and their hind end resting in my palm, so they feel very secure. (Yes, you can do this with a 12-pound rabbit.) If you can get their head down in line with or lower than their spine, tonic immobility takes over (the same response that causes them to look "hypnotized" when flipped on their back) and they are *usually* pretty docile till you flip them back over. And even if they do try to bite, they mostly end up chewing on their dewlap instead of you. When it's time to put them down, I just roll them forward into the sitting position. (The ride upside down often calms them down, too.)
I don't have too much trouble except once in a while with young does at the start of spring, when sometimes they get a little uppity due to mega hormones. Many of the meat breeds have a lousy reputation when it comes to temperament, and it's understandable since they have been heavily selected for meat and mothering qualities, not friendliness. But not only do I handle my rabbits a lot, which trains them to be docile, but in my breeding program, not only do I select for meat and show qualities, but I am very careful to use only friendly, manageable rabbits for breeding stock. Temperament very definitely responds to selective breeding. It took me more than a few years to get my Satins to the point where not only do they win Best in Shows and reach butcher weight by 9-10 weeks, but they also make good pets. Even some of my breeding does will almost fall out of the cage to get petted. Because really, who wants an angry 12-pound rabbit coming at them?
To handle an uncooperative big rabbit, I usually get hold of both ears and scruff with one hand (to immobilize them), and lift the bulk of their weight with my other hand under their hindquarters, then roll them over. Most people then slip the whiole rabbit under their arm, with all four feet sticking out the back. I'm not really partial to that however, as a fiesty rabbit can still kick you or take a bite out of you in a sensitive place. (!) Maybe surprisingly, my best luck carrying them usually comes by rolling them over on their back with their head in the crook of my elbow and their hind end resting in my palm, so they feel very secure. (Yes, you can do this with a 12-pound rabbit.) If you can get their head down in line with or lower than their spine, tonic immobility takes over (the same response that causes them to look "hypnotized" when flipped on their back) and they are *usually* pretty docile till you flip them back over. And even if they do try to bite, they mostly end up chewing on their dewlap instead of you. When it's time to put them down, I just roll them forward into the sitting position. (The ride upside down often calms them down, too.)
I don't have too much trouble except once in a while with young does at the start of spring, when sometimes they get a little uppity due to mega hormones. Many of the meat breeds have a lousy reputation when it comes to temperament, and it's understandable since they have been heavily selected for meat and mothering qualities, not friendliness. But not only do I handle my rabbits a lot, which trains them to be docile, but in my breeding program, not only do I select for meat and show qualities, but I am very careful to use only friendly, manageable rabbits for breeding stock. Temperament very definitely responds to selective breeding. It took me more than a few years to get my Satins to the point where not only do they win Best in Shows and reach butcher weight by 9-10 weeks, but they also make good pets. Even some of my breeding does will almost fall out of the cage to get petted. Because really, who wants an angry 12-pound rabbit coming at them?
Cosima
Well-known member
Do you think scruffing is okay for a 2 kg or 4 pound?
Cosima
Well-known member
Can you send a picture?
I try not to use scruffing at all. There are usually more options to maneuver a small rabbit than a really big one. With our Polish, Holland and Mini Rex, if the rabbit's really being a pill, I grasp them around the "waist" i.e. right in front of their hips, with one hand, and lift from there. Their front end dangles down and it seems to calm them briefly. I don't carry them that way though, it's just to get them into my arms. Then I carry them the same way as the big rabbits - flipped over on their back cradled in my elbow. But like the Satins, our little ones are usually pretty friendly and don't need that kind of handling.
That said, I'm guessing there's less damage done by scruffing a lighter rabbit than a big heavy one, but I still don't like the idea of tearing skin from flesh.
My camera's on the blink so sorry I can't put a picture.
Last edited:
Cosima
Well-known member
okay. With most of my rabbits I can put their head under my arm and their good but I have one that scratches me every time I pick her up (she might get eaten). I will try your method.
Cosima
Well-known member
nether do I.but I still don't like the idea of tearing skin from flesh.
Thanks so much for the detailed explanation. I will definitely be working on that holding method. And good to hear the temperament will change with good breeding. One of my does will be culled as soon as her litter is weaned. She bites and a couple of her babies have bit. The other doe and her litter are very sweet, friendly little fellows.I have raised several of the big meat breeds (Satins, New Zealands. Californians) and I have quit scruffing if there is any other option (admittedly , there is occasionally a moment when it is the only choice for the ultimate safety of both human and rabbit). I quit the practice when I talked with an ARBA judge who raised meat breeds, who told me that over time the rabbit's skin separates from the muscle beneath it. Ugh. I have found this to be the case from observations at butchering. So the skin doesn't tear where you can see it, but it sounds pretty painful!
To handle an uncooperative big rabbit, I usually get hold of both ears and scruff with one hand (to immobilize them), and lift the bulk of their weight with my other hand under their hindquarters, then roll them over. Most people then slip the whiole rabbit under their arm, with all four feet sticking out the back. I'm not really partial to that however, as a fiesty rabbit can still kick you or take a bite out of you in a sensitive place. (!) Maybe surprisingly, my best luck carrying them usually comes by rolling them over on their back with their head in the crook of my elbow and their hind end resting in my palm, so they feel very secure. (Yes, you can do this with a 12-pound rabbit.) If you can get their head down in line with or lower than their spine, tonic immobility takes over (the same response that causes them to look "hypnotized" when flipped on their back) and they are *usually* pretty docile till you flip them back over. And even if they do try to bite, they mostly end up chewing on their dewlap instead of you. When it's time to put them down, I just roll them forward into the sitting position. (The ride upside down often calms them down, too.)
I don't have too much trouble except once in a while with young does at the start of spring, when sometimes they get a little uppity due to mega hormones. Many of the meat breeds have a lousy reputation when it comes to temperament, and it's understandable since they have been heavily selected for meat and mothering qualities, not friendliness. But not only do I handle my rabbits a lot, which trains them to be docile, but in my breeding program, not only do I select for meat and show qualities, but I am very careful to use only friendly, manageable rabbits for breeding stock. Temperament very definitely responds to selective breeding. It took me more than a few years to get my Satins to the point where not only do they win Best in Shows and reach butcher weight by 9-10 weeks, but they also make good pets. Even some of my breeding does will almost fall out of the cage to get petted. Because really, who wants an angry 12-pound rabbit coming at them?
BunnyG
Member
I think every breed is different, actually every rabbit is different, I have holland lops and rex.
I try and avoid picking them up by the scruff as they think its a preditor and they get panicked, heart rate increases and they are basically scared crapless.
With most off my holland lops i hold them like they are sitting in a chair one hand supporting under front legs their backs tucked against my body and bottom supported by my other hand, they seem to like this and I barely get scratched, it also makes nail clipping easier.
With the rex's I tend to support the whole body cradling like a football on one arm head tucked as close to elbow as possible, I use the other hand to hold them in place with some of them I also use that hand to cover their eyes.
I think if you let them get used to you and handle them daily, eventually they wont mind you picking them up.
I try and avoid picking them up by the scruff as they think its a preditor and they get panicked, heart rate increases and they are basically scared crapless.
With most off my holland lops i hold them like they are sitting in a chair one hand supporting under front legs their backs tucked against my body and bottom supported by my other hand, they seem to like this and I barely get scratched, it also makes nail clipping easier.
With the rex's I tend to support the whole body cradling like a football on one arm head tucked as close to elbow as possible, I use the other hand to hold them in place with some of them I also use that hand to cover their eyes.
I think if you let them get used to you and handle them daily, eventually they wont mind you picking them up.
