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Animal Wanted Meat rabbits

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If you are breeding for meat, sib-sib breeding is fine--you only keep the very best. This is why line breeding is biologically undesirable the higher you get on the food chain:

If your breeders typically have 5-10 (or more, for some species) offspring per breeding, and will have many breedings across their lifetime, line breeding is very acceptable. Particularly if unacceptable offspring are permanently removed from the gene pool, either by surgical sterilization (spay/neuter), or by culling to the freezer. The percentage of unacceptable offspfring is more than compensated for by the sheer number of offspring created.

If your breeders have 1-5 offspring per breeding and will have numerous breedings possible across their lifetimes, the sib-sib breedings may still work out, but more caution is advised--you should be really good at identifying potential negative traits and avoid crosses that might intensify those. The potential is still good that the majority of the offspring will be fantastic valuable members of the gene pool.

If your breeders (like humans) have one or two offspring across their entire lifespan, the potential for deletrious traits is statistically NO HIGHER than with the rapid breeders for each individual offspring. But the cost of a single unhealthy offspring is deemed so catastrophic for the parents, genetically, and in humans also emotionally, that societies have elaborate and non-negotiable taboos against such mating. In some animals like primates, males are driven away from the family group at puberty for this very reason.

It is basically all a function of birthrates. Rabbits are among the high birthrate category for mammals, so line breeding and inbreeding can be acceptably practiced if you are able to recognize negative traits and breed away from them. The rabbits themselves are completely unconcerned.
As usual,incredibly excellent advice!
 
If you are breeding for meat, sib-sib breeding is fine--you only keep the very best. This is why line breeding is biologically undesirable the higher you get on the food chain:

If your breeders typically have 5-10 (or more, for some species) offspring per breeding, and will have many breedings across their lifetime, line breeding is very acceptable. Particularly if unacceptable offspring are permanently removed from the gene pool, either by surgical sterilization (spay/neuter), or by culling to the freezer. The percentage of unacceptable offspfring is more than compensated for by the sheer number of offspring created.

If your breeders have 1-5 offspring per breeding and will have numerous breedings possible across their lifetimes, the sib-sib breedings may still work out, but more caution is advised--you should be really good at identifying potential negative traits and avoid crosses that might intensify those. The potential is still good that the majority of the offspring will be fantastic valuable members of the gene pool.

If your breeders (like humans) have one or two offspring across their entire lifespan, the potential for deletrious traits is statistically NO HIGHER than with the rapid breeders for each individual offspring. But the cost of a single unhealthy offspring is deemed so catastrophic for the parents, genetically, and in humans also emotionally, that societies have elaborate and non-negotiable taboos against such mating. In some animals like primates, males are driven away from the family group at puberty for this very reason.

It is basically all a function of birthrates. Rabbits are among the high birthrate category for mammals, so line breeding and inbreeding can be acceptably practiced if you are able to recognize negative traits and breed away from them. The rabbits themselves are completely unconcerned.
I immediately wanted to repost this to every rabbit group I am on. No worries, I never do that without asking. I already basically understood this concept but it has to be THE clearest explanation that I have ever read and gets right to the heart of the actual issue involved. Thank you!!!
 
Thank you so much! I am going to look into Tamuk breed bc I am not familiar with it!
The breed was developed specifically for heat tolerance. They have a mandolin body shape, thin ( but lovely) fur, and large upright ears with very thin fur all for heat tolerance. They not only survive but can also be bred at higher temps than other meat breeds such as New Zealand (one of the breeds incorporated).

The history is a bit complex as it involved breeding a commercial variety first and then a home variety, also called a composite, which is what most folks are referencing when they say Tamuk. The home variety was also bred for good handling traits and excellent mothering abilities.

The program was only just shut down at Texas A&M University Kingsville (acronym TAMUK). You do need to get initial breedstock from breeders who have been careful in their sourcing. It is all too easy for crosses to be sold as Tamuk. I currently have some NZ/Tamuk crosses that someone unfamiliar with the breed would not be able to tell weren't full Tamuk. When I had mine in the utility trailer last summer (with fan and evaportative cooler), the Tamuk were fine but the NZs just barely made it through the worst days. Now my Tamuks were able to breed in that situation - I look forward to seeing how well they do in my new barn. Many people have them in shade in Texas with no other heat provisions though most of us are weinies and give them ice, etc. lol

My observation is that you give up a little in terms of total meat on a carcass but the tradeoff is worth it if you live in areas with heat issues. I've been pleased with my choice here in west Texas even though I went a long way to get my stock.
 
The breed was developed specifically for heat tolerance. They have a mandolin body shape, thin ( but lovely) fur, and large upright ears with very thin fur all for heat tolerance. They not only survive but can also be bred at higher temps than other meat breeds such as New Zealand (one of the breeds incorporated).

The history is a bit complex as it involved breeding a commercial variety first and then a home variety, also called a composite, which is what most folks are referencing when they say Tamuk. The home variety was also bred for good handling traits and excellent mothering abilities.

The program was only just shut down at Texas A&M University Kingsville (acronym TAMUK). You do need to get initial breedstock from breeders who have been careful in their sourcing. It is all too easy for crosses to be sold as Tamuk. I currently have some NZ/Tamuk crosses that someone unfamiliar with the breed would not be able to tell weren't full Tamuk. When I had mine in the utility trailer last summer (with fan and evaportative cooler), the Tamuk were fine but the NZs just barely made it through the worst days. Now my Tamuks were able to breed in that situation - I look forward to seeing how well they do in my new barn. Many people have them in shade in Texas with no other heat provisions though most of us are weinies and give them ice, etc. lol

My observation is that you give up a little in terms of total meat on a carcass but the tradeoff is worth it if you live in areas with heat issues. I've been pleased with my choice here in west Texas even though I went a long way to get my stock.
Note: supposed to say my Tamuks were NOT able to breed in heat of summer in the utility trailer...and I wasn't expecting it. Basically the males are supposed to stay virile at higher than average temps and I do know folks in TX breeding them through the summer.
 
So for showing in 4-H can you show them for meat pens? We see a lot of Californians around here at shows..
The breed was developed specifically for heat tolerance. They have a mandolin body shape, thin ( but lovely) fur, and large upright ears with very thin fur all for heat tolerance. They not only survive but can also be bred at higher temps than other meat breeds such as New Zealand (one of the breeds incorporated).

The history is a bit complex as it involved breeding a commercial variety first and then a home variety, also called a composite, which is what most folks are referencing when they say Tamuk. The home variety was also bred for good handling traits and excellent mothering abilities.

The program was only just shut down at Texas A&M University Kingsville (acronym TAMUK). You do need to get initial breedstock from breeders who have been careful in their sourcing. It is all too easy for crosses to be sold as Tamuk. I currently have some NZ/Tamuk crosses that someone unfamiliar with the breed would not be able to tell weren't full Tamuk. When I had mine in the utility trailer last summer (with fan and evaportative cooler), the Tamuk were fine but the NZs just barely made it through the worst days. Now my Tamuks were able to breed in that situation - I look forward to seeing how well they do in my new barn. Many people have them in shade in Texas with no other heat provisions though most of us are weinies and give them ice, etc. lol

My observation is that you give up a little in terms of total meat on a carcass but the tradeoff is worth it if you live in areas with heat issues. I've been pleased with my choice here in west Texas even though I went a long way to get my stock.
 
So for showing in 4-H can you show them for meat pens? We see a lot of Californians around here at shows..
I doubt it. 4-H is different state to state but I have not heard of anyone showing Tamuks in meat pens here. Not that I am big in the show community but I have a couple of friends. I don't know for sure. I have only ever heard of NZs or Calis being used for meat pens.
 

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