I'm building 4ftx4ft hanging wire cages for my rabbits. Has anyone ever tried this? What would be the downsides?

[Andrew Good]

I've kept my rabbits in 36x30 cages for a few years. I don't think they are happy with the size. I want more space while the babies are growing after leaving the nesting box, too. What are the possible downsides to this? How could I strengthen the cages if I need to. I'm using 1/2in x 1in welded wire floor and ceilings with 1/2in hardware cloth on the sides. And dividers with galvanized solid steel dividers 18in from the floor and 18in 1/2in hardware cloth the rest of the way up. The cages themselves are 3 continuous cages instead of 3 individual. So, the whole cage is 4ft x 12 ft with two dividers. Thanks for any help!

 

[Florida Jeff]

Looks good to me. I still have 36X30 cages. I am also want to add on to my rabbit barn and put two 6 foot cages for grow outs. I have used chain link fence tension rods wired to the floor for stiffeners. I also have used the corner post from stacking kits for the old cages never used and wired them to the cage floors for stiffeners.

 

[Andrew Good]

Chain link rod stiffeners sounds like a great idea. Thank you so much!

 

[Andrew Good]

Looks good to me. I still have 36X30 cages. I am also want to add on to my rabbit barn and put two 6 foot cages for grow outs. I have used chain link fence tension rods wired to the floor for stiffeners. I also have used the corner post from stacking kits for the old cages never used and wired them to the cage floors for stiffeners.

I just looked up the cost, and man you might have just saved me from a world of hurt later on. This was exactly the advice I was hoping for. Thanks.

 

[Alaska Satin]

I've kept my rabbits in 36x30 cages for a few years. I don't think they are happy with the size. I want more space while the babies are growing after leaving the nesting box, too. What are the possible downsides to this? How could I strengthen the cages if I need to. I'm using 1/2in x 1in welded wire floor and ceilings with 1/2in hardware cloth on the sides. And dividers with galvanized solid steel dividers 18in from the floor and 18in 1/2in hardware cloth the rest of the way up. The cages themselves are 3 continuous cages instead of 3 individual. So, the whole cage is 4ft x 12 ft with two dividers. Thanks for any help!

Cool, rabbit Taj Mahal!

Depending on how you intend to hang them, I think you're going to have pretty significant deformation of the cages due to weight pulling down. I'd suggest attaching metal or plastic rods across the top and back of the cage; attach them with many zip ties, then use the pipe to hang the cage, rather than the cage wire itself. Eg.:




I don't like anything solid on or under the floors because of cleaning issues - fur, poo and urine tend to build up anywhere there's anything solid.. But if my cages were that big, I'd add some sort of stiffeners/supports like @Florida Jeff suggests, maybe just right down the middle of each cage, since at the edges there's already the support of the j-clip joint (and I see you've been generous in your application of j-clips!). You can always add more support if you see the edges going. I'd go with rounded supports eg. metal or plastic pipe, rather than flat ones like cage corner posts, again for the build-up concern.

 

[judymac]

One caveat of a deep pen--trying to reach rabbits hiding in the back. I'd rather have a longer pen with several access doors, than a deep pen I can't reach all the way into.

 

[Andrew Good]

Cool, rabbit Taj Mahal!

Depending on how you intend to hang them, I think you're going to have pretty significant deformation of the cages due to weight pulling down. I'd suggest attaching metal or plastic rods across the top and back of the cage; attach them with many zip ties, then use the pipe to hang the cage, rather than the cage wire itself. Eg.:
View attachment 42037

View attachment 42038

I don't like anything solid on or under the floors because of cleaning issues - fur, poo and urine tend to build up anywhere there's anything solid.. But if my cages were that big, I'd add some sort of stiffeners/supports like @Florida Jeff suggests, maybe just right down the middle of each cage, since at the edges there's already the support of the j-clip joint (and I see you've been generous in your application of j-clips!). You can always add more support if you see the edges going. I'd go with rounded supports eg. metal or plastic pipe, rather than flat ones like cage corner posts, again for the build-up concern.

I was going to use the attached items in the pictures to hang. Should I put them outside of the top or inside the cage? They are 34in long and I'll be using 6 per 3 cage system. Where would it be optimal in your experience? Thanks.

 

[Florida Jeff]

One caveat of a deep pen--trying to reach rabbits hiding in the back. I'd rather have a longer pen with several access doors, than a deep pen I can't reach all the way into.

Dito Dito on reaching the buns in the back, been there done that. The wife can.t reach the back of a couple cages now.

 

[Andrew Good]

One caveat of a deep pen--trying to reach rabbits hiding in the back. I'd rather have a longer pen with several access doors, than a deep pen I can't reach all the way into.

Yes, I thought of this. I am probably going to put doors on both sides, but if I were trying to reach a baby rabbit 4 feet away, could I use a grabber or stick to maneuver them to the front? Or what would you recommend? Thanks.

 

[Andrew Good]

Dito Dito on reaching the buns in the back, been there done that. The wife can.t reach the back of a couple cages now.

Yes, what would you recommend? I was considering putting a door on the front and back. What I do now with the babies is shift the shelves that I've made to make the space smaller.

 

[Florida Jeff]

Andrew G , WOW thats nice material./ I used pluming strap and screwed the back to the wall and hung the front with chains to the ceiling. That SS cable is the Cat's Meow . I also used screws and fender washers to the back wall or some 2X4s on the outside cages.

 

[Alaska Satin]

I was going to use the attached items in the pictures to hang. Should I put them outside of the top or inside the cage? They are 34in long and I'll be using 6 per 3 cage system. Where would it be optimal in your experience? Thanks.

That looks great!

I can't say whether attaching them inside or outside the cages would be better, except that in the long term, maintenance might be easier with the struts on the outside. For instance, if it became necessary for some reason to remove or replace them, it might be slightly more of a pain to get at them if they were inside the cage...or not. We just put mine outside because it was easier to deal with at the moment.

Mostly the key seems to be to distribute the weight evenly, so definitely attach the struts to the very edges of the cage tops, as well as all the way across. I had one large cage where I zip-tied the support one square from the edge instead of right at the edge, and sure enough, that cage now bends at that point. It's not really an issue with the smaller cages like the one pictured above, but yours are much bigger than anything I have. I've actually gone to single cages rather than batteries, as it's simpler to take one down to clean or replace...I really dragged my feet when it came to taking down 9' long banks of cages to clean them (and then where to keep all of those rabbits while I'm doing it?).

 

[Andrew Good]

.

 

[Andrew Good]

That looks great!

I can't say whether attaching them inside or outside the cages would be better, except that in the long term, maintenance might be easier with the struts on the outside. For instance, if it became necessary for some reason to remove or replace them, it might be slightly more of a pain to get at them if they were inside the cage...or not. We just put mine outside because it was easier to deal with at the moment.

Mostly the key seems to be to distribute the weight evenly, so definitely attach the struts to the very edges of the cages as well as across the top. I had one large cage where I zip-tied the support one square from the edge instead of right at the edge, and sure enough, that cage now bends at that point. It's not really an issue with the smaller cages like the one pictured above, but yours are much bigger than anything I have. I've actually gone to single cages rather than batteries, as it's simpler to take one down to clean or replace...I really dragged my feet when it came to taking down 9' long banks of cages to clean them (and then where to keep all of those rabbits wile I'm doing it?).

Oh my god, I've had a rabbit hutch this whole time I built from scrap wood. I'm so dumb I built the cages to the specifications of the rabbit pans you get from tractor supply. The only problem with that is the tractor supply pans are larger than the dimensions they give on their site. So, I've been having to take my rabbits out and suit up in coveralls to deep clean out my cages for the past 2 and a half years. I will never build another rabbit hutch. So I get having to move your rabbits to clean.

I'm going to keep in mind that I should attach at the edges of the cage. That's really good advice.

 

[Florida Jeff]

I would definitely attach along the front edges,I opted to use lock wire other than cable ties/tie wraps as I found if the rabbit can reach it they will chew it. I did use cable ties on the water system tubing though and kept it over the outside seam.

 

[Florida Jeff]

Hey we all make the beginner mistakes, Ive made a bunch of them. Thats how we evolve and learn. This is a great Blog. wish I would have found it sooner. Hang in there looks like you are on your way to better days. Have Fun.

 

[Andrew Good]

Yeah, I am definitely going to use the same watering system as you. I have water bottles now. But I have to clean them with bleach twice a year, and during the summer I have to clean them with a sponge brush. Black water lines are the way to go. Do you have a link to where you obtained your equipment? I appreciate all of your help.

 

[eco2pia]

Yes, what would you recommend? I was considering putting a door on the front and back. What I do now with the babies is shift the shelves that I've made to make the space smaller.

If you are going to make them 4ft deep you need really long arms, or a door big enough to fit your shoulders. I have 5 feet by 2 feet and I can BAAAARELY reach a rabbit in one of the back corners, because my doors are not quite centered. It is a huge pain, and I am annoyed by myself every time I have to do it. my doors ARE big enough to reach in with my shoulders, but the cages are just high enough that I need to stand on something to reach that back corner.

 

[Andrew Good]

If you are going to make them 4ft deep you need really long arms, or a door big enough to fit your shoulders. I have 5 feet by 2 feet and I can BAAAARELY reach a rabbit in one of the back corners, because my doors are not quite centered. It is a huge pain, and I am annoyed by myself every time I have to do it. my doors ARE big enough to reach in with my shoulders, but the cages are just high enough that I need to stand on something to reach that back corner.

I just got the idea to make a square tennis racket to move them forward. Do you think that would work?

 

[judymac]

,I opted to use lock wire other than cable ties/tie wraps as I found if the rabbit can reach it they will chew it.

I have several rabbits that chewed through the zip ties as well. I love the convenience of the plastic ties, but they just don't work for all the rabbits. I've worked with pens at a friend's house that needed sticks to round up the bunnies due to the depth. It made the bunnies afraid of being handled. Being able to reach in gently and pick them up so they feel securely held is important.