How do you raise a rabbit to let you pick them up without kicking?

[Willow Blue]

All of my adults came from another breeder. The sweetest is my buck. He insists that we rub him down if we go anywhere near his cage. If we don’t he throws a fit by kicking his cage floor over and over to get our attention. He absolutely loves getting attention from us but he will not let us pick him up. The doe’s tolerate me but they don’t really like being petted now that they have kits and they also claw me up pretty bad when I need to pick them up.

I want to raise the kits to be more cooperative. Is there a strategy involved? So far I just go and pet them everyday and pick them up as much as I can. The one month olds are already getting kicky and their nails are like little needles. What is the trick to getting your rabbits to allow you to pick them up without all the nervous kicking? My poor skin…

 

[Juci]

All of my adults came from another breeder. The sweetest is my buck. He insists that we rub him down if we go anywhere near his cage. If we don’t he throws a fit by kicking his cage floor over and over to get our attention. He absolutely loves getting attention from us but he will not let us pick him up. The doe’s tolerate me but they don’t really like being petted now that they have kits and they also claw me up pretty bad when I need to pick them up.

I want to raise the kits to be more cooperative. Is there a strategy involved? So far I just go and pet them everyday and pick them up as much as I can. The one month olds are already getting kicky and their nails are like little needles. What is the trick to getting your rabbits to allow you to pick them up without all the nervous kicking? My poor skin…

I’m also curious about this.
Both of my bucks are really complacent about being picked up. One of them I can just carry around all day. But the does and all the babies so far just won’t let me pick them up ever. Right around 8 weeks or so the babies went from being sweet and cuddly to kicking and wild. Worse than the full grown does. I’m not sure if it’s bad luck with temperament or not the right handling on my part.

 

[Preitler]

Hm. First I pet them and get the left hand on their head. If they are in the mood they lower to the ground anyway, if not the hand on their face does the job too.
Next, I bend over the rabbit, slide the right hand under their chest and front legs, lifting the front slightly and replacing the hand on the head with my left shoulder. Here I wait a second to see if the rabbit stays calm.
If so, my left hand goes either under the rear legs, or when some kicking is expected more to their right rear side, pulling their feet against my body and supporting their weight with my left hand.

If they struggle it helps to tuck their head under the arm. Never apologize to the rabbit for doing this, they smell every insecurity , they KNOW when you don't really mean it. Have a treat ready.

It can be trained, by doing it regularily - just without actually standing up - and directly followed by a treat.
It took me years to get it right, without getting slashed each time, a sturdy jacket helps a lot too.

 

[Scooter1A]

Definitely a sturdy jacket and maybe gloves. I've had so many scratches and bite pinch marks. My adults let me do what I want now but they had to gain their trust with me over time. I was told by a show person who knows her rabbits to pick them up under the rib cage and hold them backwards like a football. I did that for a while. The babies will pinch bite you so just handle them when they are young so they know you and it will be easier. Keep the peroxide on hand to clean your scratches.

 

[MuddyFarms]

Rabbits in general do not like to be picked up- it’s a very vulnerable situation for a rabbit to not have its feet on the ground or have the option to run. Certain rabbits seem to get over that, but it really goes against most rabbits’ notions of a good time.

Most bunnies go through teenage-like stages where they will get tougher to manage, like petting less, and be grumpier. Handling them lots when they are little and then working with them through this stage should help get them to the point that they cooperate with you more. For me, anywhere between 7-16 weeks is when they can be less cooperative (definitely varies a ton by each bunny, though). It’s really nice to work through that with them and then see them being more appreciative of our interaction after that stage. Head rubs, anybunny?

I don’t have tips for getting them to stop kicking, though. I always try to wear long sleeves that won’t let their nails through. There are some nice Kevlar sleeves available online that I use in the summer with a faux-leather apron (no more torn up T-shirts or tummies!).

Lots of handling challenges come down to having to do a lot of practice with the rabbit. Depending on your time and reason for rabbit raising, you may not be able to work all of them through this amount of practice. Show breeders may have some more tips about this, as they have to train their show prospects for the table. Certain rabbits that have more dominant personalities can be harder to train than the others, too.

 

[MuddyFarms]

Another thing I do when training them is always giving them some oats and/or BOSS after EVERY time I take them out of their cage for handling. They anticipate this, look forward to it, and totally expect it. They go into the cage and instantly turn around for their treat.

Then other times I will just feed them some oats in my hand and pet them. If I am going to just pet them, I alway start with rubbing/petting their face, and then moving down their body. If I am going to catch them, I do not pet them anywhere, but just reach in and get them.

This creates a pattern that they can learn to anticipate, so they are more relaxed regardless of what I am doing with them. They are trained to recognize my intentions by me being very specific in my interactions with them. It really can make a big difference for them.

 

[Scooter1A]

Another thing I do when training them is always giving them some oats and/or BOSS after EVERY time I take them out of their cage for handling. They anticipate this, look forward to it, and totally expect it. They go into the cage and instantly turn around for their treat.

Then other times I will just feed them some oats in my hand and pet them. If I am going to just pet them, I alway start with rubbing/petting their face, and then moving down their body. If I am going to catch them, I do not pet them anywhere, but just reach in and get them.

This creates a pattern that they can learn to anticipate, so they are more relaxed regardless of what I am doing with them. They are trained to recognize my intentions by me being very specific in my interactions with them. It really can make a big difference for them.

excellent answers

 

[arachyd]

Repetition, consistency and keeping calm will help you train them. Unfortunately, some rabbits never settle down and can be very difficult. I've got scars from a few of those. I recommend a set of kevlar sleeves. They make a huge difference when handling a kicker and aren't too terribly expensive.

 

[user 9070]

I watched a rabbit judge on YouTube show how to pick up a rabbit without getting hurt. I’ve used it on some of my wildest rabbits with much success. Tuck your left hand over the rabbits head and ears. Don’t cover its eyes. Use your right hand to cup the rabbits hips/bum. Then roll the rabbit onto its side as you lift it. Do slow and gentle not gripping the rabbit. Just let it lay in your hands. I’ve even rolled mine over onto their backs with nary a scratch. When you think about it a predator would grip the rabbit tight.

 

[judymac]

I think there are several issues involved here. First, some breeds/lines are simply more laid back and accepting of being picked up. It is an inheritable trait, by keeping the most-pleasant stock as the next generation of breeders, you can end up with a fairly complacent herd. We count ease-of-handling as a primary consideration when choosing breeding stock.

Secondly, technique is huge. The rabbit kicks when it feels insecure. By choosing techniques that help the rabbit feel safe, it helps.

I watched a rabbit judge on YouTube show how to pick up a rabbit without getting hurt. I’ve used it on some of my wildest rabbits with much success. Tuck your left hand over the rabbits head and ears. Don’t cover its eyes. Use your right hand to cup the rabbits hips/bum. Then roll the rabbit onto its side as you lift it. Do slow and gentle not gripping the rabbit. Just let it lay in your hands. I’ve even rolled mine over onto their backs with nary a scratch. When you think about it a predator would grip the rabbit tight.

Training is also important. I have a consistent rule that a rabbit that is turned over on its back, cannot struggle itself upright again. If they manage to succeed, I flip them right back over again, and hold them securely. They eventually learn that struggling makes things last longer, not get it over quicker. They are trained to this from the time they are little, makes grooming so much easier. Now most of the rabbits lay quietly for belly grooming, making it so much more pleasant for both rabbit and groomer.

 

[Buknee]

Some rabbits just don't like being held. I "had" one. I like to interact with my rabbits so I didn't keep her long.
I handle my kits from day one. I spend a lot of time with them. By the time they are climbing out of their nest box, they are meeting me at their cage door. Several will climb out onto me. One of my friendliest does, also has the friendliest babies. I will literally have most of her litter climbing up the front of me. They jockey for position to be held.

I refrain from handling my meat rabbits. (It's hard) I don't want to be attached to them when I plan to butcher.

Long sleeves is a must. It took me several months and some serious scratches to learn that. When I buy a new rabbit, I really don't treat them any differently. I start handling them from day one. They will normally bury their nose into my arm. I just let them linger their while I pet them. I do normally treat them with a craisin. They learn really quick that handling is part of their new routine.

Even a rabbit that is handled often will scratch. You must always support their body good while holding them. If they feel insecure, they will scratch.

 

[judymac]

I do normally treat them with a craisin.

A local 4-H member works with each rabbit for a short handling session each day. She holds each rabbit securely so it feels safe, and gives a food treat at the end. It didn't take long before the rabbits were waiting eagerly for their upcoming treats, they associated the handling with something good instead of something scary.

 

[judymac]

I refrain from handling my meat rabbits. (It's hard) I don't want to be attached to them when I plan to butcher.

I think this is a big reason why so many meat breeds can be difficult to handle, as the breeds were not selected for temperament, but for meat qualities. I once thought all of the large breeds were more difficult to handle until I saw Giant Angoras at a show, they didn't care how you carried them, they were so laid back, despite their huge size. Wonderful. But, angoras tend to be more likely to be selected for temperament, as it's so much more enjoyable to handle a pleasant rabbit, and angoras need to be handled. My Champagne d' Argent rabbits were a meat breed, but they were so laid back the bucks didn't even care if they did any breeding. Incredibly quiet rabbits. So, it's not all meat breeds that have this issue. I've met a number of Mini Lop and Netherland Dwarf breeders with temperament issues, while most Holland Lops I've met were super easy to handle.

Within a given breed, you will find strains that are easier or more difficult to work with. My husband did a show with his gentle Silver Fox, while a competitor's rabbits kept trying to bite the judge. It wasn't the breed. I'm a real fan of breeding for temperament,. we insist on gentle animals whether poultry, rabbits, or larger stock (back in the days when we raised a lot of sheep, goats & more). I know there is never a guarantee, but I want to be reasonably sure that my friends and family are safe around my animals. Temperament is very inheritable, the best way to train your rabbits to not hurt you--is to use the naturally easiest-to-handle rabbits as your breeding stock, and select the most pleasant offspring as your next generation of breeders. You'll be surprised how quickly progress can be made.

Kits that meet me at the door at feeding time are much more likely to be selected than the one that hides in the corner or stomps its feet at me. I want handling time to be pleasant for both of us, it's not so fun for me when the rabbit is upset, so selecting for temperament is important to me. On the other hand, it can indeed be difficult to put the super friendly bunny in the freezer, so that might be an up-side to fussy rabbits when meat is your goal. In that case, learning how to safely support the hindquarters when lifting the rabbit so it isn't likely to kick, then quickly tucking it closely to your body so you have control, and the rabbit feels more secure should help. Using a thick towel on your lap when grooming may help, and I agree that long sleeves are a real help.

 

[Buknee]

My meat rabbits have good temperment. I just put my guard up because I am a rabbit lover. The dispatch of a bunny is hard enough without having made them pets. I have five freezer bound buns right now that are always nuzzling me for petting even though they have had minimal handling.

 

[HTAcres]

Husband insists I wear my gloves and something across my chest every time I handle my rabbits. If I try to sneak by, I WILL get caught even by my tamest rabbit because its a rabbit. Looking forward to trying a hold mentioned that I haven't tried. I get kevlar sleeves that are fingerless for under $15 on Amazon.

 

[Alaska Satin]

I think this is a big reason why so many meat breeds can be difficult to handle, as the breeds were not selected for temperament, but for meat qualities. I once thought all of the large breeds were more difficult to handle until I saw Giant Angoras at a show, they didn't care how you carried them, they were so laid back, despite their huge size. Wonderful. But, angoras tend to be more likely to be selected for temperament, as it's so much more enjoyable to handle a pleasant rabbit, and angoras need to be handled. My Champagne d' Argent rabbits were a meat breed, but they were so laid back the bucks didn't even care if they did any breeding. Incredibly quiet rabbits. So, it's not all meat breeds that have this issue. I've met a number of Mini Lop and Netherland Dwarf breeders with temperament issues, while most Holland Lops I've met were super easy to handle.

Within a given breed, you will find strains that are easier or more difficult to work with. My husband did a show with his gentle Silver Fox, while a competitor's rabbits kept trying to bite the judge. It wasn't the breed. I'm a real fan of breeding for temperament,. we insist on gentle animals whether poultry, rabbits, or larger stock (back in the days when we raised a lot of sheep, goats & more). I know there is never a guarantee, but I want to be reasonably sure that my friends and family are safe around my animals. Temperament is very inheritable, the best way to train your rabbits to not hurt you--is to use the naturally easiest-to-handle rabbits as your breeding stock, and select the most pleasant offspring as your next generation of breeders. You'll be surprised how quickly progress can be made.

Kits that meet me at the door at feeding time are much more likely to be selected than the one that hides in the corner or stomps its feet at me. I want handling time to be pleasant for both of us, it's not so fun for me when the rabbit is upset, so selecting for temperament is important to me. On the other hand, it can indeed be difficult to put the super friendly bunny in the freezer, so that might be an up-side to fussy rabbits when meat is your goal. In that case, learning how to safely support the hindquarters when lifting the rabbit so it isn't likely to kick, then quickly tucking it closely to your body so you have control, and the rabbit feels more secure should help. Using a thick towel on your lap when grooming may help, and I agree that long sleeves are a real help.

I agree 100%. It does seem that some breeds are generally docile, while others tend to be more keyed up (some by design - Britannia Petites are expected to be high-strung and temperamental), though there are strains within each breed that vary. The major meat breeds - Californians, New Zealands and Satins - as a rule have been selected for things other than temperament, and these are the breeds with the worst reputation as far as I can tell. This is a little mystifying to me since calm rabbits are overwhelmingly healthier rabbits, but maybe in a huge operation you might not need to worry about it so much?

I think the other meat breeds, the ones that are not usually raised commercially - champagnes, silver fox, rex, Americans, beverens, for instance - have good reputations, probably because they tend to be raised by either show breeders or family/small meat producers, which tend to care a little more about, or at least are more affected by, temperament.

We've found the same thing as you did with Champagnes () and Netherland Dwarfs (), but our experience with Holland Lops has been the opposite; at nearly every show a judge gets bit, and it's always a Holland. (I suspect that it's partly the method used to pose them - putting a hand under their chin is a veritable invitation to bite!) In Hollands, up here anyway, temperament seems to be all over the map. We found a breeder who had well-tempered Hollands, and now my daughter has two Hollands that are every bit as sweet as our other breeds.

We handle our bunnies starting the day they are born, but our Satins have also been selected heavily for temperament for decades. We have judges comment regularly on how docile our Satins are; several have told us they stand out because in many places they're called "Satans" instead of Satins! In fact, that's how I ended up with selfs rather than my much-loved reds and coppers: the agoutis tended to be either aggressive or terribly shy, while the blacks and blues were generally mellow, so it was the selfs that stayed in the barn while the nasty agoutis went in the pot. Within two generations, we had rabbits that would nearly fall out of their cage trying to get you to pet them. (It was that particular strain of agouti, though. I now have wonderful coppers and reds from when I brought the color back in from another source.)

 

[Alaska Satin]

Husband insists I wear my gloves and something across my chest every time I handle my rabbits. If I try to sneak by, I WILL get caught even by my tamest rabbit because its a rabbit. Looking forward to trying a hold mentioned that I haven't tried. I get kevlar sleeves that are fingerless for under $15 on Amazon.

That's funny to me because I rarely get scratched by the rabbits - it's the cages that tear me up on a regular basis!

 

[judymac]

That's funny to me because I rarely get scratched by the rabbits - it's the cages that tear me up on a regular basis!

Same here, I rarely have rabbit scratch issues, but often have rips in my clothes from the pens, always seems to be something to snag the cloth on.

 

[hotzcatz]

The buns here are absolutely bred for temperament. Wool quality first, health second then temperament. There's some additional selectors, but those are the main ones.

They also get bribed. Bunnies that get held for whatever reason get a treat, even if it's just a mulberry or ti leaf.

Bunnies that struggle or act grumpy get a toenail clipping right away. They have to stay with their feet in the air until they settle down, then they get to be right side up again.

They don't get asked if they want to be handled, they don't get any apologies. They must tolerate it, no exceptions. That's all they have to do, is tolerate it, but the ones who are mellow about it are much more likely to get bred.

 

[MuddyFarms]

I agree 100%. It does seem that some breeds are generally docile, while others tend to be more keyed up (some by design - Britannia Petites are expected to be high-strung and temperamental), though there are strains within each breed that vary. The major meat breeds - Californians, New Zealands and Satins - as a rule have been selected for things other than temperament, and these are the breeds with the worst reputation as far as I can tell. This is a little mystifying to me since calm rabbits are overwhelmingly healthier rabbits, but maybe in a huge operation you might not need to worry about it so much?

I think the other meat breeds, the ones that are not usually raised commercially - champagnes, silver fox, rex, Americans, beverens, for instance - have good reputations, probably because they tend to be raised by either show breeders or family/small meat producers, which tend to care a little more about, or at least are more affected by, temperament.

We've found the same thing as you did with Champagnes () and Netherland Dwarfs (), but our experience with Holland Lops has been the opposite; at nearly every show a judge gets bit, and it's always a Holland. (I suspect that it's partly the method used to pose them - putting a hand under their chin is a veritable invitation to bite!) In Hollands, up here anyway, temperament seems to be all over the map. We found a breeder who had well-tempered Hollands, and now my daughter has two Hollands that are every bit as sweet as our other breeds.

We handle our bunnies starting the day they are born, but our Satins have also been selected heavily for temperament for decades. We have judges comment regularly on how docile our Satins are; several have told us they stand out because in many places they're called "Satans" instead of Satins! In fact, that's how I ended up with selfs rather than my much-loved reds and coppers: the agoutis tended to be either aggressive or terribly shy, while the blacks and blues were generally mellow, so it was the selfs that stayed in the barn while the nasty agoutis went in the pot. Within two generations, we had rabbits that would nearly fall out of their cage trying to get you to pet them. (It was that particular strain of agouti, though. I now have wonderful coppers and reds from when I brought the color back in from another source.)

I have heard breeders use the term ‘satans’ as well! I was considering raising some due to their unique fur, but am not sure where I could successfully source some of the good ones…