definition of fully pedigreed

[WildWolf]

Yeah, my problem is that I don't want to pay for a SOP, and I'm not showing... but I need to make pedigrees if I'm selling to show-ers.

 

[ZRabbits]

Yeah, my problem is that I don't want to pay for a SOP, and I'm not showing... but I need to make pedigrees if I'm selling to show-ers.

You really need to know the SOP of the breed you want to sell as purebred. The $20 towards an ARBA SOP book will definitely be an investment. I paid $35 for one yaar to be in the LH club and have to say, as a newbie, know what I need to shoot for to sell show quality LH rabbits. Will have to do the same with my Flemish.

Definitely ups your credibility with show people if you know what the SOP for the breed is. Pedigrees, without knowledge, IMHO are just a piece of paper.

Karen

 

[skysthelimit]

Yeah, my problem is that I don't want to pay for a SOP, and I'm not showing... but I need to make pedigrees if I'm selling to show-ers.

Kind of hard to market for show people if you are not seriously acquainted with the SOP or the show table. It is possible to find some information on some club websites, but either hitting the table yourself or studying the SOP is the best way.

 

[ZRabbits]

Yeah, my problem is that I don't want to pay for a SOP, and I'm not showing... but I need to make pedigrees if I'm selling to show-ers.

Kind of hard to market for show people if you are not seriously acquainted with the SOP or the show table. It is possible to find some information on some club websites, but either hitting the table yourself or studying the SOP is the best way.

I think both give you true credibility to show people. As much as I've studied the SOP on Lion heads. Still IMHO, need to sit one of mine on a table to be truly judged. It's just a different world when you move into show, and people who show want what expected on the table. Truly nothing wrong with that. Not snobbish IMHO. It's just the way it needs to be if you plan to sell show quality.

Karen

 

[LindseysWoolies]

I agree that you cannot claim that your stock is show quality or sell it as show stock unless you show your rabbits.

 

[Piper]

If you're not showing then its not neccessary.

If your are trying to breed for weight, it is nice to be able to tell on popple, from the other, to see how fast each has gained weight.
- How do you format a tattoo? What is required or desired? or Should I just ask what each person tattoos, to make a decision, on how I would like to format, my tattoos? I intend on having meat rabbits, that have large litters.
- Will / should be having at least 3 rabbit breeds, too.

 

[SatinsRule]

To get a rabbit registered each rabbit on the pedigree needs a tattoo #, weight, and color. That is technically all that is needed but I also like to see the birthdate on there.

The pedigree which applies to the rabbit being sold, registered, transferred MUST include the birthdate. It's the only way the registrar will be able to tell whether or not the rabbit is 6 months of age or older. On the sire & DAM, GD & GS, GGD & GGS, it's not necessary.<br /><br />__________ Sun Sep 23, 2012 10:20 pm __________<br /><br />

can i say my rabbits come "fully pedigreed" if i don't have weights of parents/gps/ggps on them? always felt a little guilty...

No. The full top and bottom of the pedigree needs to include all of the above to be able to show lineage (background). The weights are necessary to demonstrate how well the bloodline adheres to breed standards, and it's very important to breeders who want to know what they're getting into.

 

[LindseysWoolies]

To get a rabbit registered each rabbit on the pedigree needs a tattoo #, weight, and color. That is technically all that is needed but I also like to see the birthdate on there.

The pedigree which applies to the rabbit being sold, registered, transferred MUST include the birthdate. It's the only way the registrar will be able to tell whether or not the rabbit is 6 months of age or older. On the sire & DAM, GD & GS, GGD & GGS, it's not necessary.

__________ Sun Sep 23, 2012 10:20 pm __________

can i say my rabbits come "fully pedigreed" if i don't have weights of parents/gps/ggps on them? always felt a little guilty...

No. The full top and bottom of the pedigree needs to include all of the above to be able to show lineage (background). The weights are necessary to demonstrate how well the bloodline adheres to breed standards, and it's very important to breeders who want to know what they're getting into.

This is what I meant. Sorry I didn't specify. what I meant to say was the ANCESTORS only needed those three things.

 

[skysthelimit]

If you're not showing then its not neccessary.

If your are trying to breed for weight, it is nice to be able to tell on popple, from the other, to see how fast each has gained weight.
- How do you format a tattoo? What is required or desired? or Should I just ask what each person tattoos, to make a decision, on how I would like to format, my tattoos? I intend on having meat rabbits, that have large litters.
- Will / should be having at least 3 rabbit breeds, too.

Every body has there own tattoo system. I have three that have there names tattooed in there ears (not my doing). The rest have some combo of letters and numbers.

 

[MamaSheepdog]

How do you format a tattoo?

My system for tattoos is Buck's initial, Doe's initial, kit # (1,2,3 etc.), month, year. X=Nov. Z=Dec. That way I know who the rabbit is out of and how old it is just by looking in the ear. I tattoo them in order of weight- the largest kit being #1.

The last litter I tattooed was out of Quill and Ice Flurry. So the kits are marked QI162, QI262, QI362, and QI462. I know by the tattoos that they were born in June of 2012, and who the largest and smallest were at the time they were marked.

When I first started this system, the kit # was last, but I reversed the order so the kit # comes before birth date. I usually have multiple litters on or near the same date, and I mark every kit, so I will sometimes only mark the first three digits to save time. If I decide to keep or sell any I fill in the last two digits. I always mark the full tattoo in at least one kit out of each litter so I don't have to recheck the birth date on the doe's cage card.

 

[Piper]

MSD - what is the earliest that you can tattoo the kits. I should have litters around 1st / 2nd week of Oct and I want to identify each kit, for weights, as soon as possible.

 

[Demamma]

MSD I like your system for figuring out tattoo's. I am going to write it down and do the same. Makes a lot of sense. Since I am going to do line breeding it also will make easier to keep track of every bunny who looks alike. What recommendations does everyone have on a tattooer? Where is a good place to buy from?

 

[Cindi Davis]

MSD I hope you dont mind but Im going to copy that System I like it alot.

 

[MamaSheepdog]

MSD - what is the earliest that you can tattoo the kits.

I'm not sure. I never do mine until they are about 6 weeks. You can use a Sharpie in the ear and retouch every few days or week when you weigh the kits. Once they get fur, I'm sure a dab of nail polish on the fur would be a safe way to mark them.

MSD I like your system for figuring out tattoo's. I am going to write it down and do the same. Makes a lot of sense.

Why thank you!

What recommendations does everyone have on a tattooer?

I have the Inkinator. I bought it at a show. OAF had a pen tattoo from another manufacturer, and when she was here and tried my Inkinator, she ordered one when she got home. They are both modified toothbrushes, but apparently there is a big difference in quality.

MSD I hope you dont mind but Im going to copy that System I like it alot.

Be my guest! You have no idea of the agony I went through trying to figure out that system. The only downside is you have to be careful to make sure that you don't name more than one doe or buck with the same initial letter. When I used a clamp set and only had one set of letters, only one animal's name could start with the same letter.

 

[OneAcreFarm]

What if you don't tattoo your rabbits? Would their name be OK? Or should you just assign ear #s even if you don't actually tattoo them?

I understand your line of thinking, but as a buyer, I would not buy a supposedly pedigreed rabbit from anyone if it was not tattooed. I have no way of knowing that the rabbit you are selling me is the rabbit listed on the pedigree. Mistakes happen, rabbits get loose....without tattoos, there is NO way you can absolutely guarantee that it is the correct animal. All animals for sale in my barn have tattoos, along with all breeders....the only ones I don't tattoo are the ones that I know are destined for Freezer Camp... <br /><br />__________ Mon Sep 24, 2012 1:12 pm __________<br /><br />

MSD I like your system for figuring out tattoo's. I am going to write it down and do the same. Makes a lot of sense. Since I am going to do line breeding it also will make easier to keep track of every bunny who looks alike. What recommendations does everyone have on a tattooer? Where is a good place to buy from?

Inkinator, hands down!
http://www.kwcages.com/KWCage/00014.html