Bout to start building my colony

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Ninabl

Ninabl

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Winder GA
Im planing to build a 10x10 pen like the dogpens you can get at tsc but only 5-6 foot tall and will have fencing on the top and bottom. My question is could I use PVC for the poles or will the rabbits eat them? And will 10x10 be big enough for 2 nzw does and one nzw buck?
Thanks
 
I don't know if the rabbits will chew on the posts, but I think I would prefer to use metal posts. They will stand up to storms better. The size is fine... 10 ft. x 10 ft. is ample for three rabbits and their offspring.
 
PCV also becomes brittle with time and cracks when cold (or hit by the lawnmower) I recommend using T posts if wood is out of the question.

I am not familiar with the TSC dog pens. What is the spacing between the wire? New born NZ rabbit kits can get their heads through 1 by 1 inch wire and hoppers can squeeze through 2 inches with ease.
 
Dood is right. The size of the wire is very important, both for keeping the rabbits in and keeping predators out. Rats and weasels can get through anything larger than 1 x 1 inch mesh. Raccoons will reach through and try to grab rabbits. You will need something like hardware cloth as well along the bottom edge if you want to baby-proof the pen.
 
Thanks for all the info. I guess I'm going to have to save up some more money. I can't get these rabbits to breed in the cages so I figured I would try the colony setup befor giving up completley. I think wood would be cheaper then the t-post...
 
Oh for certain wood would be cheaper but I thought you wanted to use the PCV since it won't get urine damage or rot out, neither will T posts.

It seems strange that the rabbits wont breed in cages. Most people here have cages rather than colonies and do just fine getting kits, myself included. Why do you think a pen would work better?
 
Dood":b9066w7w said:
Most people here have cages rather than colonies and do just fine getting kits, myself included. Why do you think a pen would work better?
Click to expand...

I've had better productivity since putting my rabbits into a colony. I think it is because they breed when they feel like it rather than when I think they should. I really hated standing around waiting for them to get to it or having to try them again a different day because the doe wouldn't lift.
 
Dood":5z74u36e said:
Oh for certain wood would be cheaper but I thought you wanted to use the PCV since it won't get urine damage or rot out, neither will T posts.

It seems strange that the rabbits wont breed in cages. Most people here have cages rather than colonies and do just fine getting kits, myself included. Why do you think a pen would work better?
Click to expand...
My main reasoning for wanting to use ove was pricing and I want to make it movable as I plan to move in the next year.

I'm not sure why they won't breen in the cages. I have Ben trying for almost a year and feel like I'm wasting money feeding the rabbits. I have 2 bucks and 5 does right now but about to cut them down. One of my bucks just want to fight if I put a doe in his cage and the other buck isn't interested in breeding at all.
Thanks
 
The first question I'd ask is "Is everyone skinny enough?" Being too heavy cuts way down on breeding success. This includes the bucks.
Are you sure the territorial buck is a buck? That sounds like doe behavior.

I know, everyone asks these same questions every time but I'm lazy enough that if I could fix my problem with a couple of small changes in routine rather than a major building project I'll do it :)
 
Ok I think we got eat mites.... Usually when I get out there to feed the rabbits it's dark wether it's morning or night. I leave for work befor the sun comes up and get home after dark. I got home easily today and decided to try to breed againg and it ended with a nasty fight. I flipped him over to see if it was a him or her (an it is a him) and noticed the crusty ear. It looks like his right ear is crusted shut. If that was my ear I would be lookin for a fight to. It looks like its crusted shut. I'm not sure what to do now so back to google I go. Thanks
 
Squirt some oil - mineral oil, olive oil or other vegetable oil - into the ears. Warm it a bit and it will spread more easily and the rabbit will not be so upset. Be prepared for him to shake his head violently. This helps spread the oil. The oil smothers the mites and the gunk will come off in a few days. You will probably want to do a second treatment a bit later on.... Maybe 5-7 days later.
 

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