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astrex?

honestly you'd be well off to build a rack to put them on and layer the clippings very thinly.

I'm sorry to hear. It's hard to lose favourite buns.

Here's my question. Are you looking for a pet or for a breeding animal and if the latter... what is your purpose? a doe with this mix of colours in her background will make it hard to get good colours for a few generations. So make wise decisions. sable messes with colours... and I think...

once they hit two days of not eating, and they have a noticeable loss of condition. that's when I make the call. I never want one of my buns to suffer.

yay to not losing a kit! :)

all I know about egg bound chickens is soaking them in water, and then VERY gently lubricating them where the eggs come out. :)

rebreed her immediately AND breed another doe at the same time. OR breed a different doe and breed her two days later. That way you can foster if needed.

so to make sure I understand your question hen 1 is NOT producing and is getting fat? hen 2 is laying eggs? if so, just like with rabbits. too much fat creates issues. Rabbits produce less kits. Hens won't lay eggs. So put hen 1 on a diet and increase her amount of exercise.

I use weebly: https://athomepets.weebly.com/

How interesting

We all understand that I think...

How did you train him? Lgd need to be trained too.

So i've been breeding tricolour holland lops like forever. :) Love the colour and just the fun of them. Normally if I breed tri to tri I get a litter of tri. but this spring I've had dark harlequins popping up in my tri to tri breedings and I'm finding it very curious. Out of a buck who...

welcome to the forum

what kind of help do you need?

allow me to clarify why in this situation I say wean at four weeks. I don't normally wean this early, but I have found that with sick does and currently healthy kits that four weeks is a good marker week. At four weeks kits still retain some immunity through nursing, the older they get the...

problem with the vaccinations is this. Once you start you'll need to continue. AND how will you know who is a carrier?

remove the kits when they are four weeks old, away from the rest of the herd, in a sanitized cage. Any that throw snot DO NOT SELL and I would hard cull. If you have any that don't throw snot (even as a mild respiratory thing) keep those as breeders. Find ways to stress them Snuffles...

if all your rabbits are housed in the same building, with the same air flow and care I would NOT disinfect basically clean cages between residents. They should be able to handle a basic cage change. if they can't, I would wonder what is not quite right with that given rabbit. MIND this is...