Would this make a good house-rabbit cage? Wire Shelf Panels

[HOWsMom]

This is what my daughter hopes to build for her eventual pet house-rabbit or rabbits.

She has found something called Rabbit Condos made using wire-mesh shelf kits that have a varying number of 14" x 14" panels.

The depth measurement is missing, but it should read as 28"

We are debating on whether the top level is truly needed - it would be almost too tall for her to clean easily, as this would be sitting on a table already.

 

[MamaSheepdog]

Many people build cages out of those panels, and they can be configured any way you like. Google NIC panel cages and you will see tons of designs.

The only issue you may have is if you get a buck and he sprays urine. Other than that, they make great cages.

 

[HOWsMom]

We were looking at something called "flashing" to use as urine guards - but I couldn't figure out how to put that on the diagram !
I'm still new to SketchUp.

This cage will be sitting on a table that is 48" x 30".

 

[Zass]

Rabbits will poop occasionally (even litter box using ones) and may also scatter hay on those flat portions, so the flashing would be essential, IMO.

 

[HOWsMom]

We have degus there now - scattered hay is just as common here as dog and cat hair is !

 

[wamplercathy]

I would place plastic or a tarp on the walls if you are going to have a buck. I never thought they could spray so high till I got Cumin. He has covered the wall behind his cage up to 2 feet high. I have a feeling he would spray higher if I gave him a shelf to stand on. :x But he's not getting one. :lol: :lol:

 

[HOWsMom]

That is a good idea !! We have kind of gross walls behind one of the degu cages now because the back is open
No matter how many times we scrub and clean it (which we do, often) it gets peed on more and more - I imagine an animal spraying would be similar.

 

[jeannie]

I use those for my indoor cages. This one has shelves (pictured is 2x3 panel) and others are one level (3x4) and (4x4) 3 panels high sitting on tarps that are attached with clothes pins. Those are for the grow outs. The tarps going up the side keep the little ones in. I cover the bottom with straw.
To clean ~ I just pick up and move the panels, and grab up the tarps and throw the used straw into the garden area and put the panels back on the tarp with new straw. Super easy

 

[HOWsMom]

What do you put over the top to keep the buns from hopping out ?

 

[jeannie]

For the cage pictured, I just put a bulletin board on top. Or just a sheet to cover the shelf part. Just make is easily removable.

The grow out pens have no shelves, they are 2 panels high, and no bunny has ever jumped out yet Momma is in there with them until 7 weeks old. The momma's do stand on their hind legs when I walk by ~ looking for that graham cracker bite. If they ever try to jump out, I'm done for .... and would have to add another panel to make it 3 high. ~ but no biggie

 

[Zass]

I saw a thread where someone hung pretty shower curtains behind their rabbit cages. Maybe the inexpensive dollar store variety could be used and replaced rather frequently?
Just be sure that the rabbits could not reach them to chew.

Some rabbits will stay in an open topped pen. My house bun, Mucky, is simply not inclined to hop or climb over an 18 inch barrier.
I feel she is very likely a minority, as most other rabbits I've attempted to keep inside have hopped right out.

 

[akane]

I used to use those panels for everything. I have over 100 of them but for some reason I can't find them since we moved. Some of my stuff got taken off to storage in my mom's stable so I am still looking. These cages started as c&c cages. Cubes and coroplast. You can find them for guinea pigs. Corrugated plastic is becoming more common to find but unprotected edges will be chewed by most rabbits. Some have found a variety of metal objects to line the top edge of coro so it can be used to make trays for chewing pets too. This is my most ambitious guinea pig build of (9) 14" panels by 2 panels over a 2wide by 4long by 2h panel cage

This one had rabbits

I was keeping young ones in it that didn't have a desire to chew it apart. I had another doe though that ate a 2' long back wall out in 2 days. I eventually made an enamel coated plywood base for my panel cages but it was heavy and it could still be chewed if a rabbit was so inclined.

You can get custom cut metal trays from bassequipment.com but they only go to 2" high on the sides. I measured some wrong for an existing cage so I built some cube cages around them but they have a high chance of any bedding going flying. Some will use large concrete mixing tubs and size the cage around those.

 

[Zass]

Where to find that coroplast Akane? We're thinking that we need to build the GPs a palace under my daughter's loft bed.

 

[Dood]

I don't think 3 levels would be needed and remember that the higher you go the less stable/sturdy the cage will be, especially for a medium sized rabbit tossing its weight around when the mood strikes :cheesysmile:

 

[akane]

Sign making stores are the cheapest source for the largest sheets. Coro is what they print things like political signs on. It is not unusual to have a sign raiding thread on the pet forums when there is a big election and a required day to take down your signs. The pieces can be duct taped together with occasional repair necessary. It's much more waterproof and stable to get a big sheet. Standard sheet sizes are 4x8' and sometimes you can find bigger. Some large hardware stores and some art stores carry coro but usually not in large sheets. You can also order it from harborsales.com but to avoid freight you have to pay for strategic cuts and tape it back together. The website that started the c&c cage building has a find materials section http://www.guineapigcages.com/

 

[Susie570]

I would like to add a few comments, since I'm using bunny condos.

First, a question though, what did you use to cover your shelves with, akane? Self stick vinyl was recommended in the instructions I have, but now I find out its toxic!!! Darned stuff was the most expensive part of the project too... and it's slick. I'm always afraid the buns will slip and hurt themselves.

Aside from that, the condos work great as long as the rabbits are cooperating with their litter boxes. The doe, River, was doing great with her litter box for a while, (but be warned, when you move then into a new cage, they will poop and pee everywhere to mark it... messy) but then she just decided she wanted to use an inconvenient shelf corner for her potty area. Smelly and hard to clean!

The buck MOSTLY confines his potty habits to his litter box, which he pushes around so it's in the spot where he wants it. :roll: He has completely stopped spraying since I put a barrier between his cage and the does, so he cannot see them.

Definitely use wooden dowels for supports!! My instructions said to use zip ties... :| I have to check and replace them.

IF the rabbit is very good about a litter box (and they can change their mind later, especially a hormonal doe), and if you don't mind dealing with hay scattered on the floor, the condos work well.

 

[HOWsMom]

What I'd read said zip ties as well - so, dowels work better ?

 

[Susie570]

What I'd read said zip ties as well - so, dowels work better ?

Definitely.

 

[HOWsMom]

Cool ! Thanks.

 

[Pepperoni]

I've been thinking about making one of these too. Jeannie, do you have issues with your rabbits trying to chew the tarps? I like the idea of using them because, like you said, just dump it into the gardens... But... I'm worried that the tarp would get chewed up.

Another thing I had considered was building a base/pan sort of thing at the bottom with melamine. I used to have a giant cage made of a melamine shelving unit for rats and they chewed a tiny bit, but not much. Do you guys think that would work for rabbits as well? Rats pee EVERYWHERE, and the melamine was really easy to clean.