Trying to get better broken paterns

[GBov]

So I picked up some NZ broken red kits this week. It was a five hour round trip (only to find the kits he was supposed to be holding for me were sold and gone already :evil: ) and after spending that much on the gas I was NOT coming home without a few rabbits.

Got one red and one broken red with the proper rich red color and got four so called broken red that are more of a rose blond. Two of them only have color on ears and a stripe or spot here and there so mostly white and the other two have lots of color but its full of white hair so they look more frosted than broken.

And the last one he called a broken grey but it has the oddest color, it looks pale blue with a hint of rose to it. Very odd but pretty.

Now, I crossed my mutt doe Honey (working on a tri color/harlequin project with her) to a NZ red and she has a BEAUTIFUL broken red kit, much nicer pattern than the ones I bought.

How many generations do I have to breed, if I mix a half mutt/NZ into my NZ to call them pure NZ?

I will, of course, keep looking for good NZ stock to mix in but they are few and far between so it seem s a shame to not use a nicely marked, well shaped fast growing out kit for breeding if I cant find what I need otherwise.

 

[ladysown]

three generations. Four is better. Just make sure you keep breeding the best and using the parents as food or sell only once you have a keeper from the litter.

 

[redbunny]

GBov sounds like a good quest. I've been putting si on a netherland dwarf using a pure bred ND with a pure argente de champagne. First generation had 1 tiny silver but lacking type.....longish ears and nose. I see it as a fraction/percentage thing.....F3 look very very good but I'd still say technically they are not purebred nd.....do I need 100% I don't know! The F1 had silver and was a doe which went to a very nice purebred NZ buck.....the best youngster in F2 was a buck and went to my best NZ doe. It's the si gene I'm putting on the NZ and ss it's now in the palette the original argente isn't needed.....but I keep him just in case.

 

[GBov]

This is the new stock.







__________ Tue Jan 22, 2013 8:36 am __________

And these are Honey's kits by a NZ red buck.





[/quote]

I took them out of the nest box for the photo shoot and, as you can see, they thought the chance of a quick snack to be GREAT! Little boogers can move faster than my camera can snap. :shock:<br /><br />__________ Tue Jan 22, 2013 8:37 am __________<br /><br />As you can see though, none of them have what I would call a good broken patern.

So how do I get there from here? :lol:

 

[Devon's Mom Lauren]

That one with its bum to the camera in the last picture has a really nice pattern!! Actually quite awesome!

 

[MamaSheepdog]

That one with its bum to the camera in the last picture has a really nice pattern!

:yeahthat:

In one of the other pictures I can see that it has at least half of a butterfly on its nose too.

 

[GBov]

So what makes a good broken then? I thought it was large patches of solid color on a clean white background, rather than lots of freckles and bits of color?

It is a lovely kit and one of our favorites. Its funny as it has a little freckle of black on its head on one on its hip. If it was going for tri-colored it failed :lol:

 

[cnichols]

That one with its bum to the camera in the last picture has a really nice pattern!! Actually quite awesome!

I would snap that one up in a heart beat! It's beautiful!

 

[MamaSheepdog]

So what makes a good broken then?

The markings should be as balanced as possible. Both ears colored, color around the eyes, with a nose butterfly or evenly balanced nose marking. The body can be a blanket pattern starting at or near the neck and continuing over the back, sides and hips, or spotted in the same areas. In the NZ toenails can be white, colored, or a combination of the two. The standard doesn't give a minimum for color, but the maximum is 50%. Faults: unbalanced nose marking (one spot, for instance), excessive white in the ears, unbalanced body markings, and uneven color.

 

[GBov]

So what makes a good broken then?

The markings should be as balanced as possible. Both ears colored, color around the eyes, with a nose butterfly or evenly balanced nose marking. The body can be a blanket pattern starting at or near the neck and continuing over the back, sides and hips, or spotted in the same areas. In the NZ toenails can be white, colored, or a combination of the two. The standard doesn't give a minimum for color, but the maximum is 50%. Faults: unbalanced nose marking (one spot, for instance), excessive white in the ears, unbalanced body markings, and uneven color.

What about white hairs in the colored patches?

 

[MamaSheepdog]

What about white hairs in the colored patches?

Those are called "scattered white hairs". You want the colored portions to be as free of them as possible. The kit in the third pic that has a full blanket pattern has a lot of scattered white hairs.

 

[GBov]

What about white hairs in the colored patches?

Those are called "scattered white hairs". You want the colored portions to be as free of them as possible. The kit in the third pic that has a full blanket pattern has a lot of scattered white hairs.

So that one should be a cull? Or can that SWH be bred out while keeping the blanket patern?

Just took more pictures but had a heck of a time getting them to keep still. Why is it that kits that have been handled all their little lives now have a problem with being held? :evil:

 

[Bad Habit]

So that one should be a cull? Or can that SWH be bred out while keeping the blanket patern?

Just took more pictures but had a heck of a time getting them to keep still. Why is it that kits that have been handled all their little lives now have a problem with being held? :evil:

Because they've become aware of their independence, and want to explore!