To Give Credit....Or Not.....

[Piper]

DIY: Nail Clipping
http://www.youtube.com/watch/?v=cyyxQRoAhcw

 

[Random Rabbit]

The 3 prego does I bought I can name what ever I want even my rabbitry. She also told me I can continue to show the does. The only reason she bred the does to that buck is she paired what she does have doe wise to give me reds and broken reds. So I'm taking the does to a show in October with her and she'll show me the ropes and such.

If the does are already bred.... by Oct. they will be getting close to delivery day. In my book... anything Less than 2 weeks before they are due... could be problematical. I Have shown does just under two weeks bred ...as they often have a "bloom" . Just not much over two weeks I would advise caution taking bred does to a show... especially a two day one. Just my thinking.

Congratulations gaining a mentor !!! A good mentor is to be treasured !!!!! :hooray:

 

[MKirst]

The show is October 13th. One doe is due October 1st, another due October 12th and the other due Sept 29th.

Will the 2 does be ok to take that are due the 29th and 1st ?

 

[3mina]

Two does will have two week old kits and one will be due the day before the show, if they were mine all three would be staying home

 

[OneAcreFarm]

The show is October 13th. One doe is due October 1st, another due October 12th and the other due Sept 29th.

Will the 2 does be ok to take that are due the 29th and 1st ?

Absolutely not if they were mine. Your does will have 2 wk old kits and you will be taking them away from their mothers and exposing them to who knows what kind of germs at the show. I would not take ANY doe that is more than 2 wks bred and if the doe has kits, I would wait until the kits are weaned before trying to show the doe.

 

[MKirst]

OK. Thanks for the replies.

 

[MamaSheepdog]

Congrats on your first pedigreed stock, and especially on finding a mentor! That is wonderful. I wish I were so lucky. How very nice of her to offer to help you evaluate the kits and tattoo them.

Despite not showing your does at the October show, I think you should still attend. You can do your shopping and watch the judging of the breeds you have. Usually the vendors are listed in the show catalog so you can contact them ahead of time if you would like to order specific cages or carriers. I bought my Inkinator Tattoo pen at a show, as well as the SOP, more carriers, and nests.

 

[Secuono]

I think giving credit while it's still the original rabbits is fine.
But once you are talking about a few generations down, then that is all you making the choices and changing the line to your liking.
Of course, if they are using names to sell, I hate that. That means nothing at all to me, for the reason above.

 

[MKirst]

Despite not showing your does at the October show, I think you should still attend. You can do your shopping and watch the judging of the breeds you have. Usually the vendors are listed in the show catalog so you can contact them ahead of time if you would like to order specific cages or carriers. I bought my Inkinator Tattoo pen at a show, as well as the SOP, more carriers, and nests.

Ya, I'll do that. Because these rabbits do need a little TLC to be picture perfect at least. IMO.

She also told me I could show even though I don't have pedigreed rabbits. Like John for example. I showed her pictures of John and Jill and she said they might not be show quality (she would have to see them in person to make that decision) but I could still enter and show and see what the judge tells me. Anyone have a second opinion ? Because if that's the case - I could take John at least. Jill - I dunno if she's a Cinnamon or not.

 

[MamaSheepdog]

Go ahead and enter them. The fee here was $3 per rabbit. The judge will comment on fur quality, hips, loins, shoulders, head, ears, etc., so you will get a good idea of their overall qualities.

 

[Random Rabbit]

Ya, I'll do that. Because these rabbits do need a little TLC to be picture perfect at least. IMO.

She also told me I could show even though I don't have pedigreed rabbits. Like John for example. I showed her pictures of John and Jill and she said they might not be show quality (she would have to see them in person to make that decision) but I could still enter and show and see what the judge tells me. Anyone have a second opinion ? Because if that's the case - I could take John at least. Jill - I dunno if she's a Cinnamon or not.

Whew !!! so glad You will not take the new mommas !! #1... the does will be on No condition for the stress of showing... their udders would be full of milk and i would bet the judge might express unhappiness over an animal shown That soon after kindling. #2... i would be terrified that the doe might pick up something nasty and infect the kits. ot that the stress would cause her to disown the young. so not worth it !!!

No rabbit Needs a pedigree to be shown. I would suggest taking Your rabbits as others have suggested...if only to get a judges opinion. It really is a Great learning experience !!!

 

[tailwagging]

but I live by my dog rules, if it isn't good enough to show, it isn't good enough to breed.

This may be good for large breeds but in the toys (chihuahuas) we like to use a over sized bitch to help insure free whelping. also in chi we can put a show head on in 1 generation so a bitch with a good body but a soso to ugly head may still be used if bred to a show head.

to me as a buyer I would want to know what breeders are in the ped. I could very well stop and take a closer look at a rabbit if it had a breeder in the ped that I knew.
the "so and so" has no right to grumble if they sold a rabbit with it's pedigree they must know that it would be used as a breeder/show and that others could/would breed off it's offspring and that their name would be on the offspring's offspring...if they didn't want their name bought up then don't sell rabbits with pedigrees.
myself I would have taken it as compliment.

 

[MKirst]

No I will not take the new does.

Ok, I just cleaned them all up and got a good look at them. Last night by the time I brought them home is was too dark to see outside and I didn't want them in my house all stinky and dirty.

The black and caster cleaned up really good. I have a problem with the broken tort - I can't get the yellow off. I scrubbed and scrubbed and managed to get some of the yellow outta the white fur but for the most part it's still yellow and some spots are really dark yellow. Is there a trick to get the yellow off the white fur ?

These 3 does have terrible feet and toes. They just look horrible to me. I watched the video and tried to cut the nails .. I got some but the quick looks like it's 1/2 way down the toe nail. So when I did cut the nails they still look really long.

The hocks are all red an bruised on all the rabbits and when they walk - because the toe nails are so long their toes looked messed up. It looks horrible. I have never seen such a thing .. John, Jack, Jill and Jean have beautiful feet, nails and no bruised hocks so looking at these new rabbits - well, I need to fix their feet and hocks, I can't stand it already and the black one doesn't want to put his back food down it's so sore .. how do I remedy this with the new rabbits ?

The brand new colony hutch they are in has 1/2" by 1/2" bottom .. they seem to be getting around fine but with caution .. but beings their feet and hocks are so bad currently .. should I maybe put wood on the bottom of the hutch for comfort till they heal and I get the nails shorter. I was thinking if I filed the nails every other day the quick will pull back and the nails I can get shorter ? Any suggestions will be appreciated.

 

[MamaSheepdog]

If you look at the cut end of the nail, you can tell when you are getting close to the quick. If the center appears "chalky" you still have room to cut. If you look closely at the two photos below, you will notice the black outer wall of the nail. It is close to the same width all the way around, but slightly thicker on the top portion. The black crescent within that area in the first photo is the leading edge of living tissue, but the chalky white area is dead. You still have room to cut more from that nail- the nerve is near the quick, so the rabbit will feel nothing.



Notice how in this photo, the inner portion appears moist, so this is a good place to stop trimming:



I would get the nails as short as possible, even if you accidentally quick some and cause bleeding. I have found that DE will stop the bleeding quickly, but I rarely do more than just barely nick the end of the quick- I don't know how effective it would be if you really cut back into it.

Since their feet are so uncomfortable, instead of filing, I would just trim a bit more off of the nails every couple of days.

I would spray their hocks with either Vetericin or Blu-Kote, or both, applying the Blu-Kote second.

If you do put resting boards in the cages, make sure they are not urinating on them or you will have even more problems.

Good luck! I hope the poor bunnies feel better soon. :clover:

 

[Piper]

quick will pull back and the nails I can get shorter ? Any suggestions will be appreciated.

there is a way, with a product that will stop blood, but you are going to have to quick them. I have obligations the next day or so, so need to hand this off, to someone that will be there to support you, if you have problems.
- Are they really bad enough, that it can not wait, a day or so - of treats - getting to know you - before you hurt them, like that.
- Someone else may have another idea or it may be the only thing to do.
- passing the buck!

__________ Fri Sep 14, 2012 12:25 pm __________

I would spray their hocks with either Vetericin or Blu-Kote, or both, applying the Blu-Kote second.

how about Nu-Stock, for the hocks?<br /><br />__________ Fri Sep 14, 2012 12:32 pm __________<br /><br />http://www.earthclinic.com/Pets/nail_injury.html
Some people choose to use a styptic powder such as Kwik-Stop to prevent further bleeding, but most of us don't have that on hand. There are a number of everyday products that work just as well to stop the bleeding and that are guaranteed to be found in almost every home.

Here are a couple of suggestions...

Grab a Dry Bar of Soap and gently rake the nail across the soap to block the blood flow

OR

Fill the palm of your hand with Baby Powder, Baking Soda or Flour and dip the nail into the powder, making sure to coat it well so that the nail stops bleeding

The trick after you have stopped the bleeding is to keep the animal lying or sitting still for a good period of time so that the bleeding does not begin again.

 

[MamaSheepdog]

how about Nu-Stock, for the hocks?

That is an option as well- but if they are very painful, spraying something on will be less traumatic than smearing ointment on.

 

[skysthelimit]

but I live by my dog rules, if it isn't good enough to show, it isn't good enough to breed.

This may be good for large breeds but in the toys (chihuahuas) we like to use a over sized bitch to help insure free whelping..

This doesn't apply to hollands either, BUD are best for breeding.<br /><br />__________ Fri Sep 14, 2012 2:34 pm __________<br /><br />I got a large bottle of blue kwik stop from TSC a while ago, goes a long way for dogs and rabbits.

 

[MKirst]

I'm going to wait a couple days to mess with their feet again. I don't want them to think every time I mess with them I hurt them. Although I noticed when I was putting the Neosporin ointment on their hocks the two rabbits I finished came back over to me nudging under my arms while I was working on the 3rd rabbit on the table. So I think the Neosporin ointment did make them feel better for a little while if at all.

I'll trim again in a couple days.

I think I got this with the feet and hocks - so how do I get the yellow out of the white fur ?

 

[MamaSheepdog]

If you get Vetericin or Blu-kote, you can treat them without touching them. Just spray their feet from underneath the cage.

Here are some threads on stains:

post69568.html

post63571.html

 

[Piper]

If you get Vetericin or Blu-kote,

aren't those the ones that leave the stain?