Planning for cage needs.

[karebru]

This is my first post outside of the welcome section. Thanks for having me!
I'm in the planning stage of getting set up to raise Florida Whites for my own use and enjoyment. (After 30 years of backyard chickens, I'm trading in noise and feathers for cute and fuzzy.)
I'm so new to this that I don't even have rabbits yet. I have to get cages and stuff first. My plan, at least in the beginning, is to only have one litter in the works at a time and not breed again until those are almost ready for processing.
I'll be doing this in my garage and am limited on space between the workbench, lawnmower and tools, etc. So far I'm thinking of following suggestions with two bucks and two does, each in a 24x24 cage, and a pair of larger cages. One for kindling and nursing, and one for growing. Ideally, they would be the same size and stacked.

Question time...
Am I on the right track?
Can a litter of mixed gender Florida Whites be housed together safely until they are ready for processing? (Assuming the cage is large enough.)
What size cage would I need for an average size litter of FWs ?
Would that same size work for the nursery?
Thanks!
:cheesysmile:

 

[Marinea]

A lot of small breeders work with a "breeding trio"- a buck and two does. If you are simply wanting a small amount of meat, I really don't see a need for two bucks.

I raise New Zealands, which are a bit bigger than Florida Whites, but I think 24x24" might be a bit small for the buns. My bucks are in 42x30" cages and my does in 48x30". If you get decent sized cages for your does, the kits can stay in the cage with the does until weaned. I would maybe get 48" long cages for your does, and just let them kindle and raise the kits in there until weaned. Then have a grow out cage of the same size for the last few weeks until processing.

If you wanted everything the same size, and stackable, I would consider two 48x24 (or 30") cages for the does to live in and kindle in, and two more 48x24 (or 30") cages- one for your buck to live in, and one for a grow out cage. The up side to this is that if you wanted to breed both does at the same time down the road (a lot of smaller breeders breed two does at the same time in case there is a need to foster kits), you can change the buck cage into a second grow out cage, and just get one more cage for your buck (I probably wouldn't go below 30x24" myself for the buck).

Good luck and keep us updated as you go.

 

[Zass]

The depth of cage is mostly relative to the length of your arms. Shorter armed people (like me) can only reach to the back of a 24 inch cage. Make sure to get one with big doors that open outward. I like 48x24x18 for a medium sized rabbit (7-9 lbs). Anything less seems crowded with a litter, and even 48x24 is crowded with a large litter.

 

[karebru]

All makes sense, guys. Thank you.
24x24 is what the breeder I emailed with said is appropriate. (He's a couple hours away.) Of course, he's probably high-volume production. Mine will obviously be pets that provide me with food. I want them to be happy.
Now I'm back to thinking about building my own.
Two- 48x24 compartments back to back, and two high... I could move things around a little and put it in the middle of the garage. A separate vacation pad for the buck, in case I need to borrow his apartment occasionally, and I'd be good to go.
What do you think?

 

[Dood]

Florida whites are a medium breed (5 to 7.5 pounds) and I think 36x24 would be fine for does and bucks could be in 24x24

I would get 2 grow out cages for the litters and you might need to buy more after the does kindle if they have litters of 6 or more.

I see no reason to get 2 bucks

 

[ottersatin]

I agree with most of the above statements,
but since you are conserving space and you
are working with a slightly smaller breed. [Florida Whites]
I would go with cages 24X30X18 for the Does, and 24X24X18 for the Buck.
One buck will be all you need as a Buck can easily service up to 10 Does.
As times goes by you can retain another Buck through your breeding program.
Do not blieve that you will stay at only three or four Rabbits, be prepared!
I would build yourself at least two more Do Cages, a few Holding cages and
at least one more Buck cage. Trust me, in the end they will become necessary.
You are working with Rabbits!
Ottersatin. ldtimer:

 

[karebru]

One buck, then. I read that purchasing one bred doe is desirable. Do you guys suggest that too, or just three junior rabbits to start with?
I like the idea of cages large enough to serve multiple purposes. I think it would save space in the long run, unless I really start to expand. That would be limited by not only space, but cage building budget. A temporary divider could be put across a 48x24 in an emergency and still have reasonable size compartments.

 

[Zass]

Watch out karebru...You may will soon discover that all of your big multi-purpose pens will end up filled with does...no matter how many you buy.

 

[karebru]

Watch out karebru...You may will soon discover that all of your big multi-purpose pens will end up filled with does...no matter how many you buy.

LOL! I am very familiar with the phenomenon called, "Chicken Math". I'm guessing Bunny Math isn't much different...
:bunnyhop: + :bunnyhop: = :bunnyhop: :bunnyhop: :bunnyhop: :bunnyhop: :bunnyhop: :bunnyhop:

 

[Sagebrush]

Watch out karebru...You may will soon discover that all of your big multi-purpose pens will end up filled with does...no matter how many you buy.

:yeahthat: With no idea where all your empty cages went! :mrgreen:

 

[Silver Cloud]

We use 24x24 pet lodge cages for our bucks, and 30x36 pet lodge cages for our does we are just starting to try the universal sani-nest (subterranean style). http://www.bassequipment.com/Cage+Acces ... fault.aspx We keep 2 bucks for or 10 does and breed 2 at a time. Hope this might help. <br /><br /> -- Sun Mar 01, 2015 8:51 pm -- <br /><br /> Our doe cage.

 

[karebru]

We use 24x24 pet lodge cages for our bucks, and 30x36 pet lodge cages for our does we are just starting to try the universal sani-nest (subterranean style). We keep 2 bucks for or 10 does and breed 2 at a time. Hope this might help.

Thanks! I've read about subterranean nests somewhere. Seems much safer for the kits. Do you have any occupied now, or that have already been used? (Oops... Just saw your thread about them.)
I'd just have to leave enough space for them if I stack.

 

[Silver Cloud]

I really think we will like them since the front of it opens also for easy access. Don't want to wish any of my life away but it would be nice if it was time to put the cardboard insert in now lol. We are thinking that it will help keep the kits in and on mom's milk longer for even better growth and health even though we haven't had any problems. We also figure other than if she kindles on the wire we shouldn't need baby wire, by the time they can get out they shouldn't be able to sqeeze through the wire. Also, the heaters fit in them just in case they would be needed for some reason.

 

[karebru]

Sounds like a plan. I wish you success.
I'm at the point where I have to bite the bullet and settle on the details of what I'm going to do. I'm sure it will all be a leaning experience from there on out.
Rabbits by Easter is my first goal.

 

[Marinea]

You can plan and read and study, but chances are, you will make changes once you get started on the journey. It doesn't mean you made mistakes, only that you are still learning. Go with it.

*fingers crossed for buns by Easter for you*

 

[wamplercathy]

I'm just starting out also. We are slowly setting things up so it will all be done before our buns arrive. We're getting a trio (1 buck, 2 does) of NZWs. We got out lucky and found a large 4 compartment cage in our barn it was 120"x30"x16". I just spent the day taking it apart so I could make changes. In the end we'll have 2--> 48x24x24 with a shelf so the does can get away for their babies. The 3rd is going to be 36x24x24 for the buck. Over all it is cheaper to buy the cages already made or that just have to be assembled. After doing some calculations (in our area) it would cost $130 to build 3 cages and $114 if we buy 3 of the per-fab cages you assemble. Over the next few months we'll be buying a few extra cages for growing pens. Personally I would never buy a older rabbit. It is stressful on them and you. They take longer to form a bound and in some cases the bound doesn't happen. Some breeding does could shut down and refuse to breed, or even waste away. Just a little info we picked up from visiting local breeders. Ours are going to be 8wk old, so we won't have babies till around August but it will be worth the wait. Welcome by the way. RT is a fountain of information. :beer2: Drink up. :lol:

 

[Marinea]

Ours are going to be 8wk old, so we won't have babies till around August but it will be worth the wait.

I'm not trying to slow you down, just making sure you know there are issues with breeding in high summer- the bucks tend to go sterile in the heat, and the does can suffer trying to kindle. Depending on your summer temps there, you might want to push that back a few months.

 

[Silver Cloud]

I hope you meet your goals and all works out well, Your first step went well - look at all the helpfull info so far. <br /><br /> -- Tue Mar 03, 2015 10:38 am -- <br /><br /> I missed putting in the first reply that we use 30x36x16 with floor supports as our grow outs for up to 6 and process at 3:12 to 4#.

 

[wamplercathy]

Ours are going to be 8wk old, so we won't have babies till around August but it will be worth the wait.

I'm not trying to slow you down, just making sure you know there are issues with breeding in high summer- the bucks tend to go sterile in the heat, and the does can suffer trying to kindle. Depending on your summer temps there, you might want to push that back a few months.

It's Missouri. Could be 112F or 32F. :lol: But it's usually in the 90s. I had thought about that. So we're playing it by ear for now. The rabbittry will have very good ventilation with the way the winds cut through. We placed a thermometer to keep track of temp. For winter we'll have to hang a tarp over the back to keep the wind out. With it open this winter it got down to -8 when we had a wind chill of -12. We should have placed the thermometer last Spring so we could see how hot it got. hindsight 20x20 :nerd:

 

[karebru]

I hope you meet your goals and all works out well, Your first step went well - look at all the helpfull info so far.

Yep... Step one: Find and join RabbitTalk! :up:
Sounds like I'd do well to carefully monitor my garage temperature through the Florida summer, get to know my bunnies, and wait until fall to breed too.
I ordered cages and stuff this afternoon. It's going to take about 2 weeks. I'm going to contact the breeder again and see if the 21st works for him to sell me some rabbits.
And away we go! :runaround: