My starter set of questions for raising meat/show rabbits

[HoneyTree]

We're on the waiting list to get a pair of Silver Foxes in the early spring, and I'm trying to get things ready ahead of time. I've read Bob Bennet's Storey's Guide, and I've ordered Ann Kanable's book.

But there remain a few things that I'm maybe just a little slow on, and I'm hoping some more experienced rabbit raisers would be willing to offer their thoughts.

First, Bob Bennet comes out strong against pasturing rabbits. He says predators and worms are just too much of a problem. I've read here some creative solutions to the predators problem, but have folks had problems with worms?

If one doesn't pasture or provide an exercise pen for the rabbits, how do they exercise? Are the domestic breeds bred to stay fit in the confinement of their cages?

Again, if there isn't an outside opportunity for exercise, when does your rabbit get used to you handling it? Do you just handle it a certain amount of time each day?

Do people get bigger water bottles so they don't have to refill them as often? Is there any other advantage or disadvantage to a bigger or smaller water bottle?

Do the babies learn how to use the valve waterers from watching the mama?

I was thinking that getting just a pair would let me know if I was going to like raising rabbits, but again, in the Bennet book, he says you really need to start with a quad--a trio and then an older, bred doe, to get a herd going. What's going to be the disadvantage of having only a pair? Space constrains here are such that I don't think going beyond six cages total is going to be likely for me.

I've read in a couple of places that showing rabbits is a great way to learn how you're doing as a breeder going for the breed standard. But--this is going to sound bad--most baby bunnies look the same to me! How does a beginner know which rabbits to cull and which to raise for show?

Thanks for any answers or ideas!

 

[OneAcreFarm]

We're on the waiting list to get a pair of Silver Foxes in the early spring, and I'm trying to get things ready ahead of time. I've read Bob Bennet's Storey's Guide, and I've ordered Ann Kanable's book.

But there remain a few things that I'm maybe just a little slow on, and I'm hoping some more experienced rabbit raisers would be willing to offer their thoughts.

If one doesn't pasture or provide an exercise pen for the rabbits, how do they exercise? Are the domestic breeds bred to stay fit in the confinement of their cages?

Domestic rabbit breeds don't have the same requirements as their wild cousins. If you are concerned, you can give them time in an outside run or rabbit tractor. I take mine out for a few min each and by the time I put them up, they are glad to be back in the cages.

Again, if there isn't an outside opportunity for exercise, when does your rabbit get used to you handling it? Do you just handle it a certain amount of time each day?

Yes, you should handle the rabbits every day for a little big to get them used to you and used to being handled.

Do people get bigger water bottles so they don't have to refill them as often? Is there any other advantage or disadvantage to a bigger or smaller water bottle?

Do the babies learn how to use the valve waterers from watching the mama?

A bigger bottle needs to be refilled less often, but they all need to be cleaned periodically. I clean mine weekly. And yes, the babies can learn from watching mom but I have some that basically just figured it out because mom would NOT use the bottle and has to have a crock.

I was thinking that getting just a pair would let me know if I was going to like raising rabbits, but again, in the Bennet book, he says you really need to start with a quad--a trio and then an older, bred doe, to get a herd going. What's going to be the disadvantage of having only a pair? Space constrains here are such that I don't think going beyond six cages total is going to be likely for me.

No disadvantage whatsoever. You start with what works for you. Keep in mind that author's give you what works best for them and sometimes that might not work for you. It is better to start small and grow into it that to get over your head at the get go. My best advice is to find healthy, pedigreed rabbits from a breeder with a reputation for healthy, quality animals. AND keep on posting here, you will learn tons, I know I have.

Shannon

 

[MaggieJ]

Bob Bennett has excellent information, but he can be a tad opinionated. "THIS is the way to do it!" This is one reason I recommend Ann Kanable's book as well. She is more relaxed and more geared to the small backyard breeder.

If you are interested in pasturing rabbits, you will also find the information in the Natural Feeding forum useful. Many of the weeds we feed also act as natural wormers, as do raw pumpkin and squash seeds. The danger from internal parasites varies from area to area. In places with a real winter it tends not to be a problem. In some areas further south it is more of an issue.

 

[ladysown]

My answers, different colour (I hope)

First, Bob Bennet comes out strong against pasturing rabbits. He says predators and worms are just too much of a problem. I've read here some creative solutions to the predators problem, but have folks had problems with worms?

Worms can be an issue in pastured raised rabbits, as can coccidiosis. The key is to keep moving the rabbits off old ground onto new. Every 24 hours move them around.

If one doesn't pasture or provide an exercise pen for the rabbits, how do they exercise? Are the domestic breeds bred to stay fit in the confinement of their cages?

Many will take the rabbits out and give them exercise, but just as many leave them in their cages 24/7. You can assist them in staying fit by putting a piece of wood in the cage that they have to jump over to get from one spot to another. That of course requires a big enough cage to make that work well and still give the rabbit sprawl space. Most simply monitor condition and feed accordingly.

Again, if there isn't an outside opportunity for exercise, when does your rabbit get used to you handling it? Do you just handle it a certain amount of time each day?

Mine get used to handling by the simple fact that I had them twice a day until they are eight weeks old. That tames them sufficiently for handle me pulling them out once a month for nail trims, to give a daily backrub to check condition and just to 'say hi', and such like.

Do people get bigger water bottles so they don't have to refill them as often? Is there any other advantage or disadvantage to a bigger or smaller water bottle?

Pros and cons to bigger bottles. All bottles need to be cleaned. Advantage to bigger bottles is less time needed to refill. Advantage to smaller bottles is they require you to check them twice a day therefore ensuring that you are checking that the rabbit is drinking sufficiently to stay healthy. Some folks don't use water bottles and only use crocks. Pros and cons either way.

Do the babies learn how to use the valve waterers from watching the mama?

in my experience...yes and no. Depends on the litter. Most seem to come by it naturally.

I was thinking that getting just a pair would let me know if I was going to like raising rabbits, but again, in the Bennet book, he says you really need to start with a quad--a trio and then an older, bred doe, to get a herd going. What's going to be the disadvantage of having only a pair? Space constrains here are such that I don't think going beyond six cages total is going to be likely for me.

Nothing wrong with only having a pair. Many will start with a trio, and yet others will start with one bred doe. Depends entirely on what you want to do AND what is available. If you live in an area where it is difficult to find rabbits getting a trio might be more beneficial in the long run, but if you live in an area where getting rabbits is easy then.. get what you want and you can always pick up more later, or breed and keep what you need.

I've read in a couple of places that showing rabbits is a great way to learn how you're doing as a breeder going for the breed standard. But--this is going to sound bad--most baby bunnies look the same to me! How does a beginner know which rabbits to cull and which to raise for show?

go to some shows, watch, ask tons of questions about your breed. And experience... sorry but that's the truth. You keep back what you think is the nicest, roundest kits and you watch how they grow out.

 

[sjlattimore88]

from my experience which is not that extensive i started off with only a pair and now i really appreciate that i started small because i learned what kinda style and approach to use which can vary from person to person. books are a terrific source of info but from my experience which again is not that much,its best to read and mix that info with the info that u gain while having your rabbits then you can modify it as you go to suit your own needs

 

[HoneyTree]

Wow. This is terrific information for me. Many thanks, all, for the time you took to respond. And Shannon, yes, I do indeed plan on spending a lot more time on these boards!