I am so sorry to hear of your difficulties. A new mama (and some experienced ones as well) may only pull a little (or no) wool, and have the babies right on the wire floor. I have one doe that is an excellent mother afterwards, raising lovely kits, but she refuses to put the kits anywhere but on the floor. To solve this, I pack the floor with several inches of hay, and move the kits to the nestbox after birth, where she tends them just fine.
BUT, that large-holed chicken wire on the sides of your rabbit hutch is a disaster waiting to happen. Kits born on the wire start blindly crawling, hoping to find mama or a warm nest somewhere. With holes that large, they'll crawl right out of the pen. Regular 1" x 2" welded rabbit wire is also too large, they crawl right through that as well. As a new rabbit owner, I was surprised one day by soft squeaking in the grass. Turned out that a mama had had her kits on the wire, and the entire litter had crawled out and fallen into the grass. Fortunately, no predators had found them yet, and I was able to pull some wool from mama's belly, make a nest in the nestbox, and put the little ones in it. They survived, but life is rarely that fortunate.
Raccoon and cats will happily reach through the big holes in the wire and pull out any babies they can reach. Happy for themselves, definitely not happy for us. I would seriously suggest putting 1/4 to 1/2" hardware cloth on the outside of the hutches. Rodents can go through holes as small as a quarter, and will eat newborn kits as well. Snakes, weasels, raccoon. . .there's a long list of possible predators, and chicken wire is so flimsy it's really not a barrier. Sometimes things can go along just fine for quite a while using less than adequate equipment, but it takes something like this to realize we're going to have to step up and take more precautions. I really think with the bloody evidence and no kits, that your doe did kindle, and her kits were eaten. Depending on your situation, and the types of predators involved, you may need to make hutch changes.
In your case, the chicken wire simply isn't going to be adequate protection. They make 'babysaver' welded wire for building rabbit pens, with the larger 1" x 2" holes for the upper sides, but the smaller 1/2" x 1" holes (like flooring) for the bottom few inches, to keep the kits from falling out. (If your pens are already built with the regular welded wire sides, you can add 3" of flooring size wire to the bottom of the sides, or 1/4-1/2" hardware cloth.) For immediate protection, I started using metal urine guards. They are also several inches high, and clip onto the inside bottom of the cage walls. Now there is a solid barrier between predators fishing to catch a wandering kit that is up against the side of the pen, and the kit. Everything you do that prevents predation helps, and this can give some modicum of protection until the new sides are finished.
I would go with smaller meshed heavy-gauge hardware cloth (1/2-1/4" squares) for the sides. I don't like hardware cloth for flooring, as it is not as thick and sturdy as welded wire 1/2" x 1" flooring, and is not as smooth on bunny feet. But, it smaller mesh than available welded wire, which helps keep rodents and snakes and such out.
Raccoon are extraordinarily adept at opening cages, with their very nimble hands. Canines and other large predators can simply batter and bite and twist thinner pen walls and doors until they give. Sturdy wire, and doors that latch securely are a good start. In extreme situations, like having bear or groups of other large predators like bored 'wild' dogs looking for a night's excitement, may require much stronger measures. In these cases, a sturdy building that encases the hutches, and sometimes even electric fencing may be required.
At this point, I think the main priority will be putting something with smaller mesh over the chicken wire sides, and being sure all hinged door areas close securely. Nestbox areas need a lot of clean fresh hay (or straw, or whatever bedding is preferred in your area) in them, as mama will be arranging and re-arranging it suit her. Remove any soiled hay (manure or wet from urine), and replace with fresh. Replenish bedding as needed, some mamas end up eating their nesting material after they build it. If the floor to the nesting area is solid wood, consider drilling some small drain holes in the floor. You don't want ammonia fumes and dampness to build up in the nest area because the urine can't escape. Ideally, the mama won't use her nesting area as a toilet, but it looks like there are rabbit manure pellets mixed in the hay in your nesting area, so your doe is relieving herself there already. Once they have a favorite spot, they tend to keep using it.
