how big should a NZ Whites cage be?
- Thread starter joey goad
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SatinsRule
Well-known member
I raise a similar sized breed (Satins) and here's what I selected for my cage sizes:
Bucks and juniors, 24" X 24"
Does, 30" X 24"
The extra space for the doe cages is to allow for extra room when a nest box is in the cage, and it's worked well for me so far.
Bucks and juniors, 24" X 24"
Does, 30" X 24"
The extra space for the doe cages is to allow for extra room when a nest box is in the cage, and it's worked well for me so far.
ottersatin
Well-known member
I use 24" X 36" X 18" for my Does and 24" X 30" X 18" for my Bucks
Though the Buck cages will pass for Doe cages if I should need to use them.
I have a few [3] 24" X 24" cages for young Bucks or Does that I am deciding whether
or not I want to keep them. I find that most all of the commercial breeds
do quite well in cages of this size.
As long as you are comfortable with it your rabbits will be too.
Ottersatin.
ldtimer:
Though the Buck cages will pass for Doe cages if I should need to use them.
I have a few [3] 24" X 24" cages for young Bucks or Does that I am deciding whether
or not I want to keep them. I find that most all of the commercial breeds
do quite well in cages of this size.
As long as you are comfortable with it your rabbits will be too.
Ottersatin.
ldtimer:
I feel like those are mimimum sizes. I have 24x24 for juniors, 24x36 bucks, and a ridiculous 36x48 combo doe/growout pen--never never make a cage that deep unless you have really, really long arms. Or you make a whole top that opens.
hoodat
Well-known member
The simple answer is, as big as you have room for. The more room a rabbit has the more content it will be. Since first coming up with the idea I am a big fan of mudular cages. I also prefer outside shelter boxes to nest boxes. It gives the young a chance to hide when they first start exploring and doesn't take up cage room. The doe piles hay in one corner when she makes a nest.
When I make my wire cages I cut two doors, one in the front for access and another on the side. This allows you to put two smaller cages together with the open doors facing one another to make a bigger cage and then return it to smaller cages when the need arises. This is a picture of a 24X30 cage with the shelter box in place. When the young start spending most of their time outside the shelter box it will be removed and a 24X24 cage added in its place, giving a floor space or 24X54. Later on that cage will be removed and the shelter box replaced for the next litter. The modular cages make your housing arrangements very flexible.
When I make my wire cages I cut two doors, one in the front for access and another on the side. This allows you to put two smaller cages together with the open doors facing one another to make a bigger cage and then return it to smaller cages when the need arises. This is a picture of a 24X30 cage with the shelter box in place. When the young start spending most of their time outside the shelter box it will be removed and a 24X24 cage added in its place, giving a floor space or 24X54. Later on that cage will be removed and the shelter box replaced for the next litter. The modular cages make your housing arrangements very flexible.
SatinsRule
Well-known member
Joey, it really comes down to 2 factors:
1-How much space you have to work with
2-How many rabbits you intend to have at the high end at any given time
And like Otter said, if you're happy with the size of your cages, so will your rabbits.
1-How much space you have to work with
2-How many rabbits you intend to have at the high end at any given time
And like Otter said, if you're happy with the size of your cages, so will your rabbits.
ok so they will adapt to there cages. well stop me if im rong but im going to leave the buck in his 24"X24" he can streh out and all till i get there big ones done. does any one know how hard it is to make your own wire cages? i found a kit with the clamps and crimper.
hoodat
Well-known member
Making your own cages with welded wire and J clips is pretty easy, although it's hard on your hands. Unless you wear gloves you will get poked and scratched by the wire. Remember to measure twice and cut once. Mistakes can be costly.
24X24 is room enough for a medium sized buck, especially if you give him a romp in the yard once in awhile.
24X24 is room enough for a medium sized buck, especially if you give him a romp in the yard once in awhile.
ottersatin
Well-known member
joey goad":6vfqofbk said:
I don't find it hard at all, in fact I find it relaxing.
I try to have all the pieces/parts for the cages cut before putting them together.
You can even spend a day [or two] cutting the parts and stacking them so that each cage
only requires to be [J] clipped together. Cut two sides, a front and Back,
and a Top out of the cage wire. Then cut a Floor out of 1/2 X 1 Floor wire
Once you put them together, You will end up with a square or oblong box.
Once that is done you must decide where you want the door to be. Cut a hole
four inches from the bottom that is 12" X 13" or larger if you need a larger
opening to place a nestbox in a Doe cage. From another piece of wire cut the door
two inches wider and two inches longer than the opening. You can hang the door
from the top on the inside allowing it to swing in to open the hole.
doing this will make it so that a rabbit pushing on the door will not be able to open it.
You can keep it closed by using the same thing that is used on the end of a dog leash.
I have more info if you need it.
Ottersatin.
ldtimer:ok well it dont sound to hard famus last words lol. i work in a fab shop so my hands are all bet up any how so im good on that. ya ottersatin ill take all the info i can get if u have pics that be cool too. ty
If you can get your hands on cheap or damaged wire dog crates any unbent panels can be used for full wall drop down doors or every side if you want. It may not be effective for mass cage building but no cutting, no sharp edges, and so long as they don't get scraped too much they will outlast you. Standard cage wire needs replaced every few years. I love my collection of powder coated panels from shelving and dog crates. I've been building every cage design you can imagine for the last 10 years with them. A little more costly but by this point I have enough I could build several dozen cages if I wanted and I'll take forever over a few years of use.
SatinsRule
Well-known member
Here is a picture of a cage I assembled. It is a 24" x 24" single.
As you will notice, there are edge guards all around the door and door frame. These are handy for not tearing your hands and arms up moving rabbits into and out of the cage.
Also, with these models, I have begun to maximize the space in the unit by installing the feeders in the door itself. That works well on doors which swing out, but not at all on the ones which swing in and up.
As you will notice, there are edge guards all around the door and door frame. These are handy for not tearing your hands and arms up moving rabbits into and out of the cage.
Also, with these models, I have begun to maximize the space in the unit by installing the feeders in the door itself. That works well on doors which swing out, but not at all on the ones which swing in and up.
sjlattimore88
Well-known member
i just ordered some 30x36x18 14 gauge cages
DevonW
Well-known member
For a rabbit over 9lbs I wouldn't use anything under 30X24 as for how big they should be I've always been told that if a rabbit can take more then 3 running leaps in a single line the cage is too big because that's how many leaps it takes to build up enough speed to do damage (broken neck etc) if the rabbit were to panic and hit the side of the cage.
Ours are 24x36x18, and my husband makes ours. They have a 1 1/2" wood frame around the four sides of wire, and he uses a 1"x1" wire, with 1/2"x1/2" for the bottom. We have all wire cages too, but we liked the wood frame, it makes the cage more sturdy, and that 1 1/2" frame on the bottom keeps them from overshooting their litter pans when they pee. With the all wire, they are noisy when they get the zoomies, they rattle, and even with urine guards they were able to overshoot the pan. We haven't had any problems with the wood, the only problem we had was with the water bottles, but we changed the type we are using, and don't have the issue anymore.
sjlattimore88
Well-known member
is there any way to tell if you cages are galvanized before or after weld
Once you have seen it it is visually obvious, but it is hard to explain. On GAW, the wire looks brighter and the intersections are just as shiny and kind of thick. GBW, the intersections look duller and not thick. If it isn't labeled Galvanized After Weld, you are probably looking at GBW, because it is so much more expensive that they want you to know if it is GAW. Like organic food.
