Do you have specific criteria for retiring a doe/buck?

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freelady96

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I've got 2 bucks and 2 does.
I raise primary for our own meat.
We bought an entire rabbitry back in summer of '21, when the breeders were about 2 years old.
Everything was a perfect set up. All healthy, buck with papers and does all proven.
They are all in the 5 yr range now. Litters are getting smaller, one possible CE with one doe, otherwise healthy.
I've switched up breeding trying to figure out why the low numbers. Doesnt seem to matter which buck, so I dont think its low swimmers. I double breed 6hrs apart, doesnt seem to matter, and the does are not overly fat.
All are friendly, no bad behaviors.
Doesnt make sense to have litters of 2 and 3 when I'm use to 8.

Should I keep the best of this litter for a new doe or find new stock? I have REW cali's. I may want to mix it up with a NZ.
 
As the does get older they become less fertile. I retire my does when the normal litter size drops to half or less for two litters in a row. Depending on the doe, she either goes to freezer camp or enjoys retirement as just a pet who gets to trim the grass around the garden during the growing season while I am outside.
 
As the does get older they become less fertile. I retire my does when the normal litter size drops to half or less for two litters in a row. Depending on the doe, she either goes to freezer camp or enjoys retirement as just a pet who gets to trim the grass around the garden during the growing season while I am outside.
Thank you. About what age do you see fertility drop? Do you usually see bucks going longer?
 
In order to be worth the cost for feed and care, I need very productive rabbits. I would have a difficult time culling what I become attached to.
I knew the day would come, but haven't had to deal with it yet.

I think I'll pick the best female out of this last litter, and as long as as my bucks are healthy keep them for now, then rehome them if I can.
 
Most bucks maintain fertility well into old age… they just get tired faster, need more recovery time, and are more prone to overheating.

I typically sell “proven” does after 12-18 months of heavy production. They haven’t slowed down much —if at all — at that point, can be really helpful to someone else in starting or improving their rabbitry, and they’ve given me a plethora of daughters to consider as replacement breeders.

I often sell them bred by one of my best bucks and in a trio with a 2-3 month junior buck and a 5-6 month junior doe bred by an unrelated buck. This combo gives lots of options for future breedings and sets a new rabbit raiser up for success.

My senior bucks generally stay here until they must be mercy killed due to advanced age/decrepitude.
 
Thank you! That was very helpful. I'm still learning how to judge which are the best to keep. I have five growouts now, that are nine weeks, still figuring out sex, and another five kits that are 5 days old, straight Cali from 2 does.
 
Most bucks maintain fertility well into old age… they just get tired faster, need more recovery time, and are more prone to overheating.

I typically sell “proven” does after 12-18 months of heavy production. They haven’t slowed down much —if at all — at that point, can be really helpful to someone else in starting or improving their rabbitry, and they’ve given me a plethora of daughters to consider as replacement breeders.

I often sell them bred by one of my best bucks and in a trio with a 2-3 month junior buck and a 5-6 month junior doe bred by an unrelated buck. This combo gives lots of options for future breedings and sets a new rabbit raiser up for success.

My senior bucks generally stay here until they must be mercy killed due to advanced age/decrepitude.
Wow, the trio you described is extremely thoughtful and exactly what I'm trying to find as a beginner myself as my SF trios won't even be ready to come home for another few weeks so won't be of age to breed till next year.
 
Most bucks maintain fertility well into old age… they just get tired faster, need more recovery time, and are more prone to overheating.

I typically sell “proven” does after 12-18 months of heavy production. They haven’t slowed down much —if at all — at that point, can be really helpful to someone else in starting or improving their rabbitry, and they’ve given me a plethora of daughters to consider as replacement breeders.

I often sell them bred by one of my best bucks and in a trio with a 2-3 month junior buck and a 5-6 month junior doe bred by an unrelated buck. This combo gives lots of options for future breedings and sets a new rabbit raiser up for success.

My senior bucks generally stay here until they must be mercy killed due to advanced age/decrepitude.
If I can ask, what do you consider a "heavy production" schedule?
 
If I can ask, what do you consider a "heavy production" schedule?
For me, that’s breeding back 2-4 weeks post kindling (typically 2, unless it’s a huge litter and she needs a little extra time to build back up before the next litter arrives). I wean at 4-4.5 weeks so she has a little time on her own before nursing the next group of kits. Most of my does raise at least 6 litters per year but the goal is 64+ kits per year per doe — that’s 8 litters of 8 or 5ish litters of 12. I have does at both end of that spectrum.
 
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