Care Routine for healthy meat rabbits?

[Comet007]

Hello, again! I am working on my routine to have healthy/organic meat rabbits - This is my plan so far, with a few questions. Any feedback or additions on things that I have missed would be greatly appreciated!! All food items will be organic, with the exception of the hay, which will only be transitional for now. Until I can grow some herbs, all herbs mentioned here will be dried. Once I can get an herb garden going I can substitute fresh.

Feed:
1) Daily Feed: Modesto Mills organic pellets (weighed for the Buck and Doe's, free feed for nursing Doe and grow outs), free feed hay, 2T/gallon OACV in the water, 1/2 T echinacea (preventative immune booster) - question: is that enough echinacea? or should I give them 1 T?

2) Weekly: 1 T "Tummy Mix" (equal parts dill, fennel, blackberry leaf, lemon balm - preventative for digestive health) question: should this be 2 T, or is one enough?
-Possibly weekly treats for breeding stock, none for the babies

3) Bi-weekly: 1 T Papaya enzymes (preventative for wool block)- question: is this often enough or should it be given weekly? So far, from suggestions, maybe use monthly OR only if there is an issue.

4) Twice/year: worm prevention, 10 drops/gallon grapefruit seed oil in water, plus 1/2 T raw pumpkin seeds

5) For 10 days prior to breeding:
-1 T Buck's Mix (equal parts Raspberry Leaf, Ginger & Parsley)
-1/2 T parsley for the Doe

6) For Doe's - last week of pregnancy thru 3 weeks nursing - 1 T/day "Kindling Mix" (1 part each: Goats Rue, Raspberry Leaf, Nettle, Lemon Balm, Dill, Fennel and 1/2 part Milk Thistle)

7) Constant supply of sterilized apple tree branches (we have trees!)

I will watch the doe's when pregnant/nursing and give BOSS and/or Calf Manna if needed - should the kits also get Calf Manna for faster weight gain? I'm assuming that when they are about 4 weeks old, I would then start them on the echinacea and items 2 & 3 from above? Maybe starting with half what the adults get? Or should it be the full amount?

I am going to TRY to get dried plantain, raspberry leaves, blackberry leaves & strawberry leaves to add to the winter hay blend. I will have to see how our time is this year. We do have wild blackberries on our property, so I should at least be able to do that.

Ok, so Grooming/Physical Care:
Monthly:
-trim nails
-Preventative for ear mites: castor oil with the following added to the bottle: a few drops of OACV, 5-6 drops camphor oil & rosemary oil & tea tree oil
Am I missing anything that should be done regularly?

Also, as needed:
-tea tree oil & chamomile tea for weepy eyes
-wasting/convalescent: Nettle, dill
-diarrhea/constipation: raspberry leaves, dandelion, dill, fenugreek (not for pregnant does)
-Stress: lavender (not for pregnant does), lemon balm, chamomile (feed herbs, not tea)
-Pain Relievers: chamomile (feed herbs), Nettle, lavender
-Ginger: given at weaning to ease transition to pellets
-Wry Neck: dramamine, sprinkle sea salt in food (small amount)
-Delayed or difficult labor: Blue Cohosh, Fenugreek, Lavender (thinking about mixing these together in equal parts and giving 1 T if the doe is late or having a hard time - any thoughts on this?)
-Bag balm, neosporin, bentonite clay, coconut oil, liquid bandaid for wounds or skin issues
I know that there are other items that would also work for the various conditions - but does it look like I am missing anything important? Or any conditions that are common that I have forgotten?

Cage Cleaning Our cages will be suspended from the ceiling, with worm beds below. I understand that the cages need to be cleaned twice a week - is that just dry brushing with a stiff brush to remove any hair or waste that are in the cage? I can't use any kind of spray or solvent, because I don't want them dripping down into the worm bed! I had thought to spritz the brush with vinegar, but then read that it will ruin the galvanization of the cages!

I am assuming that I would need to remove the rabbit from the cage, then use the brush. Do you just put it in temporary housing while you are cleaning the cage? If the doe is pregnant, does doing this stress her out? We are planning to move the litter out to grow out cages two weeks before she kindles again. Sorry if this seems like a really stupid question!

For deep cleaning - is this done on a monthly basis? Or…? I know that when one litter is removed you need to deep clean before starting another litter. We do have a pressure washer, and I plan to use the product listed below as my disinfectant (it's what I use in the salon to sanitize and disinfect). Basically you clean the cage with soap and water, rinse thoroughly, then spritz the Let's Dance mixture on, leave for 10 minutes, then rinse again, then air dry. Preferably in the sun, if we can find some here in Washington!

Let's Dance -Disinfects and Kills: Bactericidal, staphylocidal, Pseudomonacidal, Salmonellacidal, Tuberculocidal, Virucidal, Fungicidal, Conductive, Biodegradeable.

EPA registered Tuberculocidal hospital grade disinfectant
For client and technicians
Disinfects and deodorizes in ten minutes
Ultra concentrated – 1/2 ounce makes one gallon
Extremely economically- 8 oz concentrate makes 64 jars or 16 gallons
Non Metal Disinfectant
Solution turns cloudy when it is time to change
Can be used on plastic implements
Use it for soaking: Combs, Washable Files, Brushes, Finger Nail Brushes and ALL Plastic Implements
Disinfects: Counter Tops, Work Stations, Finger Bowls, Pedicure Baths, Tanning Beds and All Non-Metal, Non-Porous Surfaces

If you've made it this far, thanks for reading, and I appreciate any input!! Anything glaringly obvious that I am forgetting that I need to do?

 

[skysthelimit]

Very throughout. You're doing a lot more than I ever have.

Can't say I've ever tried the echinacea being used. Wool block---I have only found this necessary for my long wooled breeds. I've yet to have a Rex, MR, Holland or Silver Fox get wool block. It can happen but not likely. With the woolers, they get a hay day-I stop there normal feed and give them hay that day, but I don;t do this all the time, but usually around shearing time.

 

[Comet007]

I was wondering about that, since the NZ's don't even need to be brushed. Maybe I should just have some on hand just in case, or just give it monthly as a just in case? Thank you!

Edited to add: I've read about the echinacea being used from a few different sources, just as a preventative immune booster. I can't remember anymore where I found the info, but it's supposed to be really good for balancing the immune system, as well as for the sinus' and respiratory system. I think I paid $8 for a pound of organic echinacea, which should last about 3 months for my breeding trio. Of course, I will go through it faster if I'm giving it to the kits from weeks 4-10.

 

[skysthelimit]

I would say no. It's not a big thing with meat breeds. The oldest meat type bun I got from my breeder is here, a six year old Rex. She's never given anything for wool block for her herds. Even with my woolers, I don't give any other preventative than hay, and I don't groom them as often as you might think.
I have never brushed a Rex or Silver Fox.
Even for show all I do is mist the coat and run my hands over it.
Generally I don't give preventatives. I want a healthy immune system on it's own, if it gets sick, and doesn't recover quickly on it's own I cull.

Remember about oils, when you put it in the ear, it drains to the throat. I'm not really sure camphor oil is safe for the stomach.

I can't say I scrub cages that frequently, Besides the JW that leave globs of wool, the cages are without dangling bunny berries. Things are scraped off when visible and woolers cages are torched with needed.

I don't use anything to clean besides vinegar. It' needs to be rinsed. I'd do bleach but the smell makes me ill. Most of the time I brush with the buns in the cage, I move them only if they bother the brush (some try to play with me.)

 

[Comet007]

I can totally understand the reasons to not do preventatives. Since we need to stay as organic as possible, we don't want to ever have to use antibiotics or other common remedies for ailments, so my thought is to give them what they need to stay as healthy as possible.

For the camphor oil in the ear mite preventative, that's a recipe that I found on a NZ breeders site - I think that because it's only 5-6 drops in a bottle of mineral oil, and you only use 3-4 drops of the entire solution on the ear each month, they would be getting next to no camphor oil in their tummy, even if a little solution did drain. Definitely good to be thinking it through, though, thanks!

Maybe I will give all the preventatives to one doe and her litter, and with the other just give pellets, hay and water with OACV, and see if there is a noticeable difference. But then I'd have to choose one animal who will not get the primo treatment… and I'm someone who always had to give exactly equal amounts to our two kids when they were growing up. Drove my husband crazy when I was trying to find some little $5 item for one kid for a Christmas present to make it even. But then I'd find something that was $7, and have to find something for $2 for the other… :lol: :lol: :lol: It's just the way I'm made.

So, for cleaning the cages, you just brush them off while the rabbit is still in the cage if something is needed? How often do you remove them for deep cleaning?

At home I typically use vinegar/water for most of my cleaning, but I do already have the Let's Dance solution (I use it in my salon for my work areas). I know that it's better for disinfecting than just bleach (it's hospital grade), which is why we're required to use something like it in the salon. It actually lasts a REALLY long time, so it's fairly inexpensive. I'm just not sure how often I would need to do the full cleaning with the cage being removed from the rabbitry.

 

[Zass]

IMO, this is way too much preventative medicine.
New zealands are hardy so that you DON'T have to bother with all this. Good food, clean water, clean cages and trim nails are the only "necessities". Toys to chew on and play with are nice (your apple branches, for example )

I suggest you wait and watch, and treat medical problems IF they come up.

With only three rabbits and a closed rabbitry you may never ever see ear mites or worms. Wool block isn't an issue with new zealands.

Honestly, lines that couldn't survive their own grooming without added enzymes should be culled.
The same for pregnancy. They can do this stuff on their own! But do feel free to spoil them, as herbs are delicious and appreciated by rabbits.

Make sure to not give too much of anything fresh and new. Introduce foods one at a time. And calf manna is mostly GMO corn, you probably won't want that anywhere near your organic rabbits.

 

[Comet007]

Introduce foods one at a time. And calf manna is mostly GMO corn, you probably won't want that anywhere near your organic rabbits.

Good to know, thanks! I haven't looked into the calf manna or BOSS much yet, so I didn't know that. I definitely will be staying away from any non-organic products just to be safe. GMO is getting into everything!

I don't mind spoiling them, if that's all that's achieved with the preventatives. I do know from the breeders where I got the information on preventatives that they have very low mortality rates. And really, without the papaya, it's just two daily (OACV & echinacea) and one weekly (tummy mix), so the monthly cost will run about a dollar a month per adult rabbit. Of course, the worm prevention and any breeding/kindling mixes would be extra - but that would be when they're giving us a bounty of bunnies! :mrgreen:

 

[BlueMoods]

I don't do preventives except worming them, and really that's a curative here - every critter here has worms until you worm it. I clean as needed and, with NZ, that isn't much. I do bleach used nest boxes and set them aside until I need them again.

For that oil mixture, look at VetRX Rabbit Remedy. it is similar and, natural - might save money using it over making your own. I use it for mites and respiratory problems.

Be careful of raspberry with pregnant does, the fruit is fine but the leaves and stems can induce premature labor if you give very much.

As has been pointed out, Calf manna is largely GMO corn so, if you don't want that, don't use it. You can find an organic supplement or make a mash of nutrient dense foods instead for the rabbits that need it. I do like Calf Manna but, I'm not doing 100% organic either.

 

[grumpy]

Raising meat rabbits can be as complicated as you wish to make it.
I raise commercial NZW's and a small purebred line of Californians.
This entire rabbitry can be traced back to 3 does and 3 bucks. It took
me a very long time to finally find these gems. I waded through a lot
of junk before finding the rabbits that worked for me and my system.

My first 25 doe rabbitry was built in 1974. It worked very well w/only
pellets and fresh water. Never medicated for anything. There was never
a need to do so. The rabbits were healthy in the environment I provided.

Fast forward to present: 80+ holes, 42 producing does.
Still basically the same set-up and the same methods from long ago.
Fresh water, pellets, and hay 2-3 times per week. I tried the OACV and
found little to no difference in the performance of the herd. I've wormed
the herd twice in the last 4 years. Treated for cocci twice, and that's it.
I "do" treat for ear-mites when they show themselves, but that's been
very rare the past several years. Ear mites usually enter the rabbitry
when I bring in a rabbit to test for production.

I raise for a market direct to top-end restaurants here in the Midwest.
No "additives" what so ever. My rabbits are given the best I can provide.
If they fail to thrive.....they're history. I won't artificially support their health.
Only the best stay with me. Lesser animals go to the snake guy. I need
every cage and I won't keep an animal that shows little to no potential.
In the past, I've followed the 3-strikes rule. I'm leaning more and more
to "2-strikes".....Then, it's adios. I've got young does waiting to earn a
spot in the herd.

There have been a few folks from this site visit my rabbitry. Most, if not
all, were impressed with my herd and its productivity. I don't "hammer"
my does like some modern-day enthusiasts espouse. Maybe I should.
But, I care more for my animals than that.

Keeping methods simple works very well for this old-timer. I'm hard pressed
at times to remember what day of the week it is. Best of luck to you.

Grumpy.

 

[mystang89]

I feed mine and make sure they have water then eat them. I'll give them winter wheat fodder when I have it and pellets when I don't. I'll clean the cage by taking out the rabbit and then spray a bleach mixture letting it dry before putting the rabbit back in. I'll do that one in a while. No real set date. Mainly just feed, water and cook them though. Nothing special.

 

[Comet007]

Well… for some reason I thought I was reading (all over the place) that cages need to be cleaned a couple times a week, or daily if using pans. It sounds like that's not the case, at least for those who have responded. I guess I will plan on brushing out the cages weekly, with deep cleaning the doe's cage between litters. Probably the grow out cages between litters as well. So that would be every 10 weeks or so.

With only 5 cages in my rabbitry, I will definitely be looking to "keep the best and eat the rest", but with such a small herd I want to minimize losses as much as possible. I know from personal experience the difference it can make in your body to use natural remedies/boosters. It certainly isn't going to hurt them. If I had an 80 hole rabbitry I would certainly have to re-think my plan! Our dogs thrive on the food we make for them, including the one that was almost dead when we rescued him, and hopefully the buns will do the same!

Thanks everyone for your feedback - it sounds like I'm not missing anything critical at least to start!

__________ Tue Feb 25, 2014 12:30 pm __________

I tried the OACV and
found little to no difference in the performance of the herd. I've wormed
the herd twice in the last 4 years. Treated for cocci twice, and that's it.
I "do" treat for ear-mites when they show themselves, but that's been
very rare the past several years. Ear mites usually enter the rabbitry
when I bring in a rabbit to test for production.

I raise for a market direct to top-end restaurants here in the Midwest.
No "additives" what so ever. My rabbits are given the best I can provide.
If they fail to thrive.....they're history. I won't artificially support their health.
Only the best stay with me. Lesser animals go to the snake guy. I need
every cage and I won't keep an animal that shows little to no potential.
In the past, I've followed the 3-strikes rule. I'm leaning more and more
to "2-strikes".....Then, it's adios. I've got young does waiting to earn a
spot in the herd.

There have been a few folks from this site visit my rabbitry. Most, if not
all, were impressed with my herd and its productivity. I don't "hammer"
my does like some modern-day enthusiasts espouse. Maybe I should.
But, I care more for my animals than that.

Keeping methods simple works very well for this old-timer. I'm hard pressed
at times to remember what day of the week it is. Best of luck to you.

Grumpy.

I haven't personally visited your rabbitry, and I'm impressed anyway! I actually went through your profile and read the advice you've given to others on this forum, and it's been very helpful to me!

I'm going to use the three strike rule on breeding stock, but since we will have only two producing doe's at a time, if I have to baby a few along the way to the dinner table I will consider it time well spent! I'm sure that I'm really going to enjoy spending time with them - keeping in mind that they are DINNER of course! I'm actually really looking forward to being on the ground level with our food sources - color me odd!

I can't remember off hand if you've already said this - how often do you breed your doe's each year? I'm planning on five litters per year to start - down the road if the doe's are thriving I might try for six, which I understand is still not considered super intensive to production breeders.

As for the day of the week - I never know, which is why my calendar is the most used app on my phone! :lol: :lol: :lol:

 

[ilovehome]

I don't really have a scheduled routine, and I like to keep things simple, but I spent 4 hours cleaning and organizing in my rabbitry yesterday. For some reason, being in there brings me peace and joy. So, whatever care routines your finally decide upon after doing this a while, stick with the ones that make your rabbits healthy and you happy.

 

[Zass]

Different things affect how often the cages will need cleaned.
In winter I have to brush out the cages more frequently, because the rabbits are outside and I have been using a lot of straw for bedding, and of course, it gets soiled and must be removed. Soiled hay INSIDE the cage will also need brushed out, but if your feeder is outside the cage perhaps it would be less of a mess?

I have been dealing with temps in the negative teens this winter. All that straw would not be necessary somewhere warmer!

Any cages with drop pans get cleaned daily in summer and every couple days in winter. I can't stand poo being kept close to my animals...attracting flies and such.

 

[Comet007]

For that oil mixture, look at VetRX Rabbit Remedy. it is similar and, natural - might save money using it over making your own. I use it for mites and respiratory problems.

Be careful of raspberry with pregnant does, the fruit is fine but the leaves and stems can induce premature labor if you give very much.

As has been pointed out, Calf manna is largely GMO corn so, if you don't want that, don't use it. You can find an organic supplement or make a mash of nutrient dense foods instead for the rabbits that need it. I do like Calf Manna but, I'm not doing 100% organic either.

I appreciate the info on it, but I looked at the VetRX, and I wasn't thrilled about the corn oil base in general, since so much of our corn is GMO these days! Vet-RX ingredients: Made with 3.3% (v-v) alcohol U.S.P. The mixture contains Canada balsam, camphor, oil origanum, oil rosemary, blended in a corn oil base. It actually has the camphor (which interestingly enough, rosemary contains as much as 20% camphor oil!) and rosemary oil, which I will also be using.

I actually wanted the camphor oil anyway, because it can also be used as a local anesthetic, is antimicrobial, is an anti-itch agent, a cooling agent, and can help with inflammation! For $2 for a little bottle, that's worth having in my book! Rosemary oil also has other uses that might come in handy, being antiseptic, a pain reliever, and a calming agent, among other things. And of course, I will already have the tea tree oil and OACV for other health purposes, so really I just need the mineral oil. Though maybe I'll just use olive oil, since I already have that too!

Good info on the raspberry leaf, I'm on the fence about having it in my kindling mix. It is known for strengthening the womb, easing labor, supporting lactation and preventing kindling problems like retained afterbirth. At least, this is the information that I have found on a few different sites. Maybe I will keep that separate and just give it on day 30-31 if the doe hasn't already delivered, and then continue it for the 3 weeks to support lactation - though I'm already using several herbs that do that, so it's probably fine to leave out!!

__________ Tue Feb 25, 2014 12:55 pm __________

I don't really have a scheduled routine, and I like to keep things simple, but I spent 4 hours cleaning and organizing in my rabbitry yesterday. For some reason, being in there brings me peace and joy. So, whatever care routines your finally decide upon after doing this a while, stick with the ones that make your rabbits healthy and you happy.

I bet that was satisfying! I am hopeful that I will find my time tending the rabbits therapeutic, having 24/7 chronic pain in the moderate-severe range, I do find that taking care of others helps me not think about my own pain. That's one reason I love doing nails in an area that is largely a retirement population, I find it very satisfying to have a positive impact on my clients. <br /><br /> __________ Tue Feb 25, 2014 12:59 pm __________ <br /><br />

Different things affect how often the cages will need cleaned.
In winter I have to brush out the cages more frequently, because the rabbits are outside and I have been using a lot of straw for bedding, and of course, it gets soiled and must be removed. Soiled hay INSIDE the cage will also need brushed out, but if your feeder is outside the cage perhaps it would be less of a mess?

I have been dealing with temps in the negative teens this winter. All that straw would not be necessary somewhere warmer!

Any cages with drop pans get cleaned daily in summer and every couple days in winter. I can't stand poo being kept close to my animals...attracting flies and such.

Wow, that's cold! I think the lowest we've hit this year was around 20 degrees, and usually just a week or two here and there where it gets that cold! Mostly we are in the high 30's to 40's, with some days up in the 50's! I'm thinking we won't provide straw, unless that's what we end up using in the nest boxes, and hopefully our worms will keep the flies down! For some reason we have huge flies here, I never see any small ones, and I hate it when one gets in my house so I know I wouldn't like them with the buns either!

 

[Marinea]

If you are anything like me, I think you will start out like a first time mom, doing everything by the book, and then, as you go along with rabbits, you'll end up more like a third time mom...not so worried about every little thing.

My buns (four adults which are my breeders and a current litter of 6) get food, water, and hay daily. They get weekly treats. They get checked daily for any problems, and only if I find something do I change the routine. I clean their slant boards every few days, and clean out their cages as needed. The mom and litter currently have hay on the floor of their cage- that gets cleaned out and replaced often.

As to the flies- take a few quart Ziploc bags, fill them halfway with water, and add a few pennies to each bag. Hang them up in your rabbitry- the flies will go away.

 

[Comet007]

If you are anything like me, I think you will start out like a first time mom, doing everything by the book, and then, as you go along with rabbits, you'll end up more like a third time mom...not so worried about every little thing.

My buns (four adults which are my breeders and a current litter of 6) get food, water, and hay daily. They get weekly treats. They get checked daily for any problems, and only if I find something do I change the routine. I clean their slant boards every few days, and clean out their cages as needed. The mom and litter currently have hay on the floor of their cage- that gets cleaned out and replaced often.

As to the flies- take a few quart Ziploc bags, fill them halfway with water, and add a few pennies to each bag. Hang them up in your rabbitry- the flies will go away.

Pennies in a ziplock bag? I'm intrigued lol. Are the bags sealed? What does this do that keeps the flies away? I might add them to the decor in MY house! :lol: :lol: :lol:

 

[BlueMoods]

Yes, those bags of water work. The pennies are best if they are shiny new pennies. Why? Look at a fly's head, it's mostly two larger, segmented eyes. The refraction of the light from the bags of water, and shiny pennies disorients the flies and, they avoid the area. I use that method a lot here in the summer. I put bags above doors and windows, in the rabbit barn and chicken coop. Far fewer flies that way. I might get 2 or 3 in the house all year is all.

Of course it won't work in too dim a light but, 99% of the time it works great.

 

[grumpy]

As to the flies- take a few quart Ziploc bags, fill them halfway with water, and add a few pennies to each bag. Hang them up in your rabbitry- the flies will go away.

:x ARE YOU SERIOUS??? :x

Wow........that's something I've never heard of. Gonna try it this
coming spring, summer, and early fall.

I'm always at WAR with those pesky things. AND I hate usin' sprays
and chemicals. I get those "sticky-strips" all....over.....my.....body!! :lol:

This old-dog just learned a new trick.

Grumpy.

 

[Miss M]

As to the flies- take a few quart Ziploc bags, fill them halfway with water, and add a few pennies to each bag. Hang them up in your rabbitry- the flies will go away.

:x ARE YOU SERIOUS??? :x

Wow........that's something I've never heard of. Gonna try it this
coming spring, summer, and early fall.

I'm always at WAR with those pesky things. AND I hate usin' sprays
and chemicals. I get those "sticky-strips" all....over.....my.....body!! :lol:

This old-dog just learned a new trick.

Grumpy.

Somebody on here tried this in their rabbitry last year, even though it sounded absurd, and reported that it worked!

 

[Comet007]

Hmmm, I wonder if that would work to keep the birds out of our cherry tree! It might look prettier than shiny strips tied onto the branches!