can i use a plastic tote for a breeding / living box
- Thread starter joey goad
- Start date
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Some rabbits do chew plastic. Some people have used plastic anyway I believe, and some have even used cardboard in a pinch. My preference is for a wooden box with a metal mesh floor, I can line it with cardboard (and hay) and then throw away the cardboard. Babies pee in the nestbox, whatever you use, be sure there is some kind of drainage or some way to absorb the pee.
If you mean nest boxes for raising kits I have plastic cat litter boxes in the colony as nest boxes. You do have to make sure there is a good layer of absorbent material. I put in a layer of pine pellets, layer of pine shavings, and layer of hay or straw. Straw is better but we don't keep it on hand in the summer. If you leave the nest box in (no reason to do so in a cage) then you need to check it frequently or they may use it as a litter box which then requires dumping, scrubbing, and refilling every time it gets dirty. If it gets dirty the does probably won't use it for their nest or the kits might get sick if they do. Sometimes I have to remove a particular container for a month or 2 to break them from using it as a litter box. In cages you don't add the box until shortly before they give birth. Usually around day 28 when most give birth day 31-32. Even then they occasionally use them as litter boxes until they actually have their kits.
im new at this and im no where near ready to breed, but I have all wire cages outside, and I just feel like I need to give them an option to hide or not. So will they be ok just in thier wire mesh cages? There is a roof built over it, and they are very well shaded.
They'll just pee in anything with a solid bottom if they aren't breeding. If you want to give them some place to hide I'd leave the bottom wire. Some make a floorless wooden box to put in the corner of the cage and stuff it with straw in the winter for them to sit on and stay warm in. During warm weather they shouldn't really need much shelter. Just something over the cages to provide shade and keep most of the rain off. Wet feed and hay will also be a major health risk so should have enough protection from the weather to prevent that.
they will be fine with just the wire cage...though making a hutch for them to sit under/in isn't difficult. wine boxes from the store (the wood ones) will work in a pinch.
While some people do use plastic boxes for nest boxes or shelters, I personally don't like them. Some rabbits will chew or eat plastic, which is not good for them. Worse, plastic, even if you drill ventilation holes, does not breathe and moisture can build up. This can cause bacteria and mould to develop. Unless you anchor the box to the side of the cage, it makes a very tippy nest box and kits could easily be dumped out and scattered if the doe makes a clumsy leap in or out of it.
I much prefer wood boxes with wire on the bottom for nest boxes. A bottomless box can be used for shelter, just resting on the cage wire floor.
I much prefer wood boxes with wire on the bottom for nest boxes. A bottomless box can be used for shelter, just resting on the cage wire floor.
DevonW
Well-known member
I had a rabbit die from a perforated intestine from chewing a plastic corner litter pan she used to sleep in. Now I won't give my rabbits any type of plastic what-so-ever.
I have used plastic bins in a pinch for water (once for a nest box) and found the rabbits tend to enjoy dragging them around and tipping them if they aren't weighted down or held in place. I did have very good results using a rigid-type small animal carrier with the door removed. I propped the open end on a small board. The tilt was enough to keep the kits from getting out, it's too big to drag around, the doe can lay on top of a sturdy surface and it has excellent ventilation but was enclosed enough that the doe felt safe using it. I'd use more of them but the size (about 2' from door to back end) makes it too big for most of my hutches.
Tops are great, they like to sit on top like Snoopy, plus it is warmer in the winter. I would think of it like a dog house, you want them to be able to go in and turn around, so about 1-2 inches bigger all around than the adult rabbit. My NZ nest boxes are 12x12x23, but that is kind of extra long to allow for the mom to get in and not step on the babies. If you are just doing it for shelter, 12x12x16 is probably adequate. Remember that they have to fit through the door of the cage...don't ask how I learned that...
Cattle Cait
Well-known member
I've kept smaller breed does in the very large Rubbermaid tubs from a week before kindling till the kits are around 3 weeks old. It works great for me.
KandEKnopp
Member
I have MR and I made my nest boxes, 10x10 and the front has a 4" side, and the top is a 6 " pc.
As you can see, all my dim mentions were equal, so it made it very easy to assemble.
(these are wood). And I really like them. When the kits are done with them, I put
Them in the sun for 3 days.<br /><br />__________ Mon Aug 01, 2011 7:16 pm __________<br /><br />I have MR and I made my nest boxes, 10x10 and the front has a 4" side, and the top is a 6 " pc.
As you can see, all my dim mentions were equal, so it made it very easy to assemble.
(these are wood). And I really like them. When the kits are done with them, I put
Them in the sun for 3 days.
As you can see, all my dim mentions were equal, so it made it very easy to assemble.
(these are wood). And I really like them. When the kits are done with them, I put
Them in the sun for 3 days.
<br /><br />__________ Mon Aug 01, 2011 7:16 pm __________<br /><br />I have MR and I made my nest boxes, 10x10 and the front has a 4" side, and the top is a 6 " pc.As you can see, all my dim mentions were equal, so it made it very easy to assemble.
(these are wood). And I really like them. When the kits are done with them, I put
Them in the sun for 3 days.
