Cage wire size

[ladysown]

barn cats generally can't take out adult rabbits. Young rats for sure, but adults... they are tough for your average cat.

bending wire creates added stress on the foot, that stress leads to sore hocks, sore hocks... is a PAIN not only for the rabbit, but also for the owner

rats are wicked smart and if they can get their teeth through, they will grab bunny feet. The ONLY solution I found here was to put in trays under all my cages. That space (between tray and cage) they couldn't fit through. Bunnies stupid enough to rest their ears next to cage walls got nibbled once but never again.

 

[Zee-Man]

For rat proofing you could add a layer of rat wire outside the rabbit friendly wire. Are rats really a problem? I would understand if the rabbits were on the ground. While rats can easily climb, the only "food" would be kits. I would think that momma would be sufficient defense? I don't have a rat problem so I never gave it thought. My scavengers are 'possums and they are content with the compost pile.

While fridge racks are indeed going glass, oven racks are still metal. But the PVC wire is much cheaper. It also comes is 1x1 and 2x3 mesh sizes.

 

[ashley_tiger88]

Hi there! Are you building all-wire rabbit cages or wooden rabbit hutches or something else? The ideal wire for rabbit cages is 1/2x1" for the floor (not hardware cloth) and 1x2" for the sides. Sides made out of 2x3" wire would allow kits to escape/fall out easily and would probably not have enough strength to make a sturdy all-wire cage. On cages where you want to have kits born and raised, it is important to have 1/2x1" wire on the sides up several inches as well to prevent small kits from falling out of the cage.

The size rabbits you are hoping to raise could also influence your choices, as well as a number of additional factors.

I have had issues with kits getting their legs caught in the 1/2"x1" and break them. I've resorted to 1/2x1/2 on the bottom. I'm praying it works because I've lost 2 in 2 months that way.