Cage wire size

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mvinesett21

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I know hardware cloth for the bottom, but for the sides and top would 2x3 inch welded wire work? Thanks
 
Hi there! Are you building all-wire rabbit cages or wooden rabbit hutches or something else? The ideal wire for rabbit cages is 1/2x1" for the floor (not hardware cloth) and 1x2" for the sides. Sides made out of 2x3" wire would allow kits to escape/fall out easily and would probably not have enough strength to make a sturdy all-wire cage. On cages where you want to have kits born and raised, it is important to have 1/2x1" wire on the sides up several inches as well to prevent small kits from falling out of the cage.

The size rabbits you are hoping to raise could also influence your choices, as well as a number of additional factors.
 
It depends on if you need to make a rat proof nesting area or not. If it's going to be a nesting hutch, then it may be best to opt for 1/2" x 1" wire for all of it. If there aren't going to be any babies so no worry about rats getting in, then you could use bigger 2x3 holes for the sides and/or top. Some folks use larger hole size wire for the sides and then put a line of 'baby saver' wire around the bottom. There's lots of different ways to build a bunny hutch.

We have access to old refrigerator racks which are just dandy for walls or doors. Not so good for floors, though, since bunny feet can get caught between the wires.

When building bunny spaces, things to consider are that the floors will rot out first. Which means having a way to replace or fix them easily built into the design of the hutch is a good thing. Also, cages and hutches aren't necessarily just to keep the rabbits in, they're also to keep predators out. Making a predator proof hutch will depend on what predators you have in your area.
 
Zee-Man said:
There was a one time chew on a wall. But, after that none. The floor is lasting the longest I have ever seen. The urine simply doesn't get to the metal.
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That is good to know. Maybe I should try some of that on some cages. I am glad to be aware of another source for wire, and a fairly economical one. I wonder why this isn't used more often in cages. Is the calcium build up harder to get off?
 
Zee-Man said:
There was a one time chew on a wall. But, after that none. The floor is lasting the longest I have ever seen. The urine simply doesn't get to the metal.
Click to expand...
I think it depends on the rabbits - when I got my rabbits, the cage they came in has pvc/vinyl coated wire which is very chewed - down to the metal in most places. However, I have no idea how long they were in there, how crowded they may have been, how hungry/bored they were . . . etc.
 
MuddyFarms said:
That is good to know. Maybe I should try some of that on some cages. I am glad to be aware of another source for wire, and a fairly economical one. I wonder why this isn't used more often in cages. Is the calcium build up harder to get off?
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Truthfully I can't say. After 1 year there is not much build up. Once the weather warms I will do some cleaning. The manure classifier underneath is bare metal. It has much more build up, but it is also only 1/4 mesh.
 
Zee-Man said:
Truthfully I can't say. After 1 year there is not much build up. Once the weather warms I will do some cleaning. The manure classifier underneath is bare metal. It has much more build up, but it is also only 1/4 mesh.
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Great; thanks.
 
mvinesett21 said:
I know hardware cloth for the bottom, but for the sides and top would 2x3 inch welded wire work? Thanks
Click to expand...
PLEASE... DO NOT use hardware cloth anywhere on your cage.

1. has barbs on it so bad for the feet
2. offers no protective from predators
3. it is not stable enough and bends which is also hard on their feet
 
ladysown said:
PLEASE... DO NOT use hardware cloth anywhere on your cage.

1. has barbs on it so bad for the feet
2. offers no protective from predators
3. it is not stable enough and bends which is also hard on their feet
Click to expand...
in my defense, I didn't join this group in time LOL. However, some hardware cloth does not have pointy bits. I just looked at the stuff that I used on the bottoms of my cages. Also, just out of curiosity, why would the fact that it bends be bad for them?

The trick is to look for FENCING and not 'hardware cloth' - I thought the 1/2" x 1" stuff was still called 'hardware cloth' but it's not. It's called 'fencing' Thank you @Zee-Man I bought 100' :)
 
hotzcatz said:
It depends on if you need to make a rat proof nesting area or not. If it's going to be a nesting hutch, then it may be best to opt for 1/2" x 1" wire for all of it. If there aren't going to be any babies so no worry about rats getting in, then you could use bigger 2x3 holes for the sides and/or top. Some folks use larger hole size wire for the sides and then put a line of 'baby saver' wire around the bottom. There's lots of different ways to build a bunny hutch.

We have access to old refrigerator racks which are just dandy for walls or doors. Not so good for floors, though, since bunny feet can get caught between the wires.

When building bunny spaces, things to consider are that the floors will rot out first. Which means having a way to replace or fix them easily built into the design of the hutch is a good thing. Also, cages and hutches aren't necessarily just to keep the rabbits in, they're also to keep predators out. Making a predator proof hutch will depend on what predators you have in your area.
Click to expand...
I appreciate the idea of using refrigerator racks - just have to find a source. Unfortunately, they are going to mostly glass shelves, but they might have a use too LOL Wire closet shelving also makes great sidewalls.

If you live in an area with rats, are they only a risk to babies? So one could use a specific 'rat-proof' cage for kindling and the first ... how many weeks? and then regular cages for other rabbits. We live in the middle of fields and have tons of rats, but just gained some barn cats, so maybe that problem is gone (I hope)
 

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