Cage size

[mvinesett21]

I have some nz/cal crosses. I will breed some for meat production. Is a 24x30 cage big enough or do I need bigger?
Thanks

 

[hotzcatz]

Well, I suppose if they can't move much, the meat will stay tender? 2' x 2.5' is a pretty small space for a big bun, doubt they could even stretch out flat in that short of a space? If it were cages here, I'd opt for minimum 30" x 42" and then make them min. 18" high, even better would be 24" high and 48" long.

 

[Rabbits by Accident]

If that is the cage you already have, if it is tall, you can make a second story. I put platforms that take up almost 1/2 the space and allows them more room to move around and extra exercise by jumping up and down. Bigger would be better. They should at least be able to stretch out. How large are they going to be when grown? I have rabbits from 4 lbs to 12 lbs and various sized cages. Most of my rabbits are actually in dog kennels which works out really well because they're tall and allows room for a platform. I have one long cage that is only about 18" high, and I attached a second smaller cage on top so they have a second story.

 

[MnCanary]

Lots of nutrition, health and behavior problems disappear if your rabbits have a lot of space to move around.

 

[Rabbits by Accident]

Well, I suppose if they can't move much, the meat will stay tender? 2' x 2.5' is a pretty small space for a big bun, doubt they could even stretch out flat in that short of a space? If it were cages here, I'd opt for minimum 30" x 42" and then make them min. 18" high, even better would be 24" high and 48" long.

I just measured all my random sized cages and my 12 pound doe is in a 30"d x 42"w x 30"h cage (dog kennel) which is really nice for her - with a shelf to add some extra space. I agree that is a good size for a large rabbit.

I have 8-lb rabbits in 22x36x24 cages, which works out well.

I also have a 24 x 30 x 21 cage with a shelf in it and I have a 4 pound doe in it, which is good until her kits start to grow, then it gets a bit tight. I can't imagine a 8-12 lb rabbit in it.

 

[Blue bunny barn]

I have some nz/cal crosses. I will breed some for meat production. Is a 24x30 cage big enough or do I need bigger?
Thanks

Depending on what you are doing with your rabbits. The "typical" cage for "commercial" meat production rabbitries are 30x30 or 30x36 or sometimes 24x36. I have a mix of these sizes and mine all do well.

 

[MuddyFarms]

I just remembered another factor that I have read is used for determining cage sizes: weaning age. The smaller the cage size a doe is in, the sooner the kits have to be weaned (obviously depending on litter size).

 

[Albert]

Lots of nutrition, health and behavior problems disappear if your rabbits have a lot of space to move around.

Our neighbours had some really bad experiences with aggressive rabbits. Changed to tractors and it completely went away. That may have been coincidence but it happened before we started and that's what made us go for tractors in the end.

 

[jaxmarblebuns]

I have some nz/cal crosses. I will breed some for meat production. Is a 24x30 cage big enough or do I need bigger?
Thanks

short answer YES. I have my calis in 24" x 24" and 18" x 30" (which is not what I want) they can full stretch out and bounce a little, and they have done ok. Bigger is always better, but the size you have will work for the intended purpose. If you can go up one square foot or so for your breeding does I think that would be beneficial, but it's not going to kill them if you can't. when going up in cage size however anything larger than 30" x 36" (maybe even that size) will need floor support, sagging floors are a huge cause of sore hocks.

 

[ladysown]

It will be just fine. Seriously. a buck will have lots of room, as will a single doe with kits up to four weeks old. At four weeks you'll want to divide the litter and switch the doe back and forth between cages for week. This allows for slow weaning of the kits as well.

 

[jaxmarblebuns]

It will be just fine. Seriously. a buck will have lots of room, as will a single doe with kits up to four weeks old. At four weeks you'll want to divide the litter and switch the doe back and forth between cages for week. This allows for slow weaning of the kits as well.

hmm. I've never heard of weening like that, or that young (usually the rule is not under 6 weeks). Very interesting. Are there any reasons/benefits to wean like that rather than weening two kits every other day or so over about a week. Like most people do?

 

[ladysown]

what is the rule about not weaning under 6 weeks? There are no hard and fast rules about anything with weaning. Kits are often weaned at four weeks when breeding back to back or in colonies. If you have a BIG litter, breaking up the litter means the kits get the benefit of mom's milk every other day which helps them transition well when being weaned. If you have a smaller litter a standard 24 x 30 or 36-inch cage will be just fine. But if you have 10 plus kits and mom in there, it does start to get a little crowded with fast-growing kits. breaking up the litter just makes sense to me.