Buying commercial cages?

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MNBobcat

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I was reading in a book (storeys) that by the time you calculate in waste and cost of wire you may be able to buy manufactured cages for about the same investment.

I can make all-wire cages. I do have a machine shop and a metal brake (for bending). But I have a lot of projects for this spring and if I'm not going to save much doing it myself I may as well buy cages.

Where is the best place to buy cages? I'm thinking about 24 holes.
 
You're in Minnesota, so Klubertanz would be my suggestion for you. they're just a couple of miles from my house and they make EXCELLENT cages. Prices are as good as any other I've found, too. (other than the ones from Farm and fleet/FleetFarm..which are about 1/2 the quality of the professional ones).

http://www.klubertanz.com/

The cages still have to be put together by you (because of shipping) but they're very very sturdy and well designed. (that can be said for http://www.bassequipment.com/default.aspx and the others, too)

We build a 3'x4' cage for $40, basic cage. Shipping on the cage wire could kill you, too. HOWEVER....Most of the cage manufacturers show up at the vendor's rooms for the large rabbit shows. You can often save yourself shipping that way.

Also...is there anyone else in your area that could share shipping costs on a larger order? Or do you know anyone who travels back and forth from Madison, Wi area to your area? Klubertanz is just 15 miles south of Madison.
 
One place that i would not suggest... would be the national chain 'farm' store. While i love them to pieces... i would Not recommend the rabbit cages ! They are a small gauge wire... one needs plenty of 'J' clips to hold them together and... we are finding that the bottoms sag with much weight.

We purchased them at the time... as we had no other supplier available. Now they are used for 'temporary' housing of new rabbits during quarentine time. For a short length of time they are useable. YMMV of course.
 
Klubertanz will freight it to you, so you pay for it to be put on the truck...
only problem is, if you don't have an account (they do) and you want it delivered, versus going to the dock (truck warehouse) you will pay a 'curb' fee.
 
I went to Home Depot and special ordered it. I got it in a 100 foot roll 2 feet wide so there is virtually no waste if you build 24X24 cages. $85 plus tax and no shipping charge. I just went down and picked it up.
A lot depends on what you want it for. If you have pet rabbits inside you may want a "purty" commercial cage, otherwise it's cheaper and quite easy to make them yourself. It does take a bit of time but not much skill.

__________ Wed Mar 16, 2011 1:53 pm __________

I missed seeing that you had a brake available. In that case it gets even cheaper. Just brake at 90 degrees twice and you have two sides and a bottom. Do the same again and you have a top and the other two sides. That neans a lot less time and money putting in J or C clips.I recommend J clips. They make a less shakey cage. In a metal shop you may even be able to make your own J clips if you want to go to the trouble.
 
YUCKY
that wire is CHEAP, as in from china cheap, compared to a quality wire from someplace like Klubertanz, you won't notice it, but compare the stiffness and finish, you really notice it.
 
Jack":1q9cq4zy said:
YUCKY
that wire is CHEAP, as in from china cheap, compared to a quality wire from someplace like Klubertanz, you won't notice it, but compare the stiffness and finish, you really notice it.
You may well be right. I tried to find galv after weld but couldn't find it anywhere. This will have to do me for now. I can replace with better wire in the cages as these give out. I'll probably be able to cut off the bottom 6 inches or so and replace it with better wire. it's the bottoms of the cages that rust out.
 
Anntann and Jack both make excellent points. You won't beat the quality of Klubertanz wire or cages, no matter where you shop. There are plenty of distributors out there who make equipment which is just as good, but there are no better cage builders than Klubertanz. Word of caution, though. Order the cages 2-3 weeks before you'll need to assemble them. They don't make cages until they're ordered, and since they're busy, it normally takes that long to get them cut and shipped out. If you use that Chinese-made crap, you'll be kicking yourself for it a couple of years from now (if you're lucky it last THAT long) when you're forced to replace everything. It simply will not hold up at all.

Since you're comparing costs versus buying the wire and building them yourself, stop and analyze the real costs of doing so. First, price the galvanized AFTER welded wire (it's far more rust-resistant than other types of wiring), and then figure out how high your cages will be [it will vary based upon the breed(s) you raise], as well as how deep your cages will be [which again, will vary based upon the size of the breed(s) you raise]. What that essentially will add up to is 3 different rolls of wiring (height, depth, and floor wire). If you try to do it all with 2 rolls of wire, you will wind up wasting alot of wire in the process.

Next, factor in how much wiring you'll also need to build your doors, then what it will ultimately cost you to install door latches, purchase 1000+ j-clips, j-clip pliers, wire cutters, etc. It's different for everyone, but for me, it would have been as cheap and in many cases cheaper to buy it pre-cut from the dealer, with only the assembly required when it arrived at my doorstep. The reason is simple. All the extras I just listed (aside from the wire cutters) were included as part of the cage price, and they did a heckuva lot better job at it than I ever would have. If you buy your own wired, you'll have to buy all the "extras" yourself. All of that says nothing of the cost of feeders, water crocks, hay racks, etc.

Also try to understand that any cut you make in the wire will automatically cause you to lose anywhere from 0.5 to 2 inches of wire, depending upon the measurements of the wire you're using. Again, if you decide to make everything with just two rolls of wire, your amount of wasted wire will increase exponentially.

__________ Wed Mar 16, 2011 5:31 pm __________

hoodat":jevmkv2v said:
Jack":jevmkv2v said:
YUCKY
that wire is CHEAP, as in from china cheap, compared to a quality wire from someplace like Klubertanz, you won't notice it, but compare the stiffness and finish, you really notice it.
You may well be right. I tried to find galv after weld but couldn't find it anywhere. This will have to do me for now. I can replace with better wire in the cages as these give out. I'll probably be able to cut off the bottom 6 inches or so and replace it with better wire. it's the bottoms of the cages that rust out.

Each time you replace the floor wiring, you're likely going to have to shorten the height of the cage by 1-2" as well, mainly because when the floor wire rusts, the areas where the side (wall) wire is j-clipped to the floor wire on the tends to rust as well. I guess what I'm trying to say is that the bottom 1-2 inches of wire on the cage walls will be rusted and need repair, and the only way to get rid of the rusted areas will be to trim it off, and there goes part of your cage height in the process of doing so.
 
Looks good. Thanks for the link. If I'm reading right they even provide J clips as part of the package and their prices aren't bad although shipping will probably be high since I'm in SoCal.
 
Hoodat, there is no reason in the world why you should have to pay shipping for cages, mainly because California has TONS of rabbit shows and you could have a supplier (which seem to be present at just about any show nowadays) build them and bring them to a show for you, saving you a chunk of change in the process. Just remember to plan ahead and get info on how long it normally takes to build them for you. Heck, they may even be able to bring them to you already assembled.
 
This is the style of cage that I like:

http://vimeo.com/9836667

If you haven't seen it, its an interesting video. I don't care about the rack that holds the cages in the video. I'll build my own racks and hang the cages. What I like about these cages is how well they work when the Does are having babies. It seems like a very organized method.

I've looked through the Klubertanz online catalog (thanks for the link) but haven't had much luck finding a cage similar to the above. Granted...I find the Klubertanz catalog a bit cumbersome to understand. If someone sees a similar cage and can point me to it I'd appreciate it!

I believe the recommended size for something like a New Zealand is 24 x 30 or 24 x 36 at 18 inches high, correct?
 
Neat video, and neat cages. They are very efficient for a commercial operation, and that is a fantastically clean barn. I wish I could have nest boxes like that. Maybe some day...If I am ever able to move indoors.

MNBobcat":8u1h1wxe said:
I believe the recommended size for something like a New Zealand is 24 x 30 or 24 x 36 at 18 inches high, correct?

I think that is a good workable minimum. I think those particular cages seemed a little crowded to me...But I admit to being a little bit of a softie about such things. Certianly, the rabbits don't seem stressed in that operation.
 
check Bass...they have a strange system of cages in addition to the normal types, as I recall.

You can still have klubertanz build them for you...give them dimensions, pictures, whatever, and they can build it. they build all sorts of stuff. :shrug:

Sounds like you'll be happier building your own.
 
eco2pia":3voh7u8i said:
Neat video, and neat cages. They are very efficient for a commercial operation, and that is a fantastically clean barn. I wish I could have nest boxes like that. Maybe some day...If I am ever able to move indoors.

MNBobcat":3voh7u8i said:
I believe the recommended size for something like a New Zealand is 24 x 30 or 24 x 36 at 18 inches high, correct?

I think that is a good workable minimum. I think those particular cages seemed a little crowded to me...But I admit to being a little bit of a softie about such things. Certianly, the rabbits don't seem stressed in that operation.

There's no reason for an amateur to crowd them that much but a commercial operator has to make every inch count. they certaily seem healthy enough and quite calm.You can tell they're well treated. Those are nice simple nest boxes but he also has a controlled temperature. Amateurs may need deeper sides to keep out cool air.
Just a thought, contrast that with the gulag conditions commercial chickens are raise under. You can only crowd rabbits so much before you get die off.
 
If I remember correctly, the accompanying article says that the gentleman bought his setup from Italy? hmm...might have been France, but I'm thinking Italy.

He also says that he leaves the kits with the doe as they grow out. (which is one reason it is so crowded.) We dissected the cages in the video last year...It seems to me that they're quite deep, with a dropdown nest box at the front end. The rabbits, as they grow, are able to go into the back area.
 
WOW
check out the rabbit stuff, just look at the SIZE
and they have massive automation, pooper scoopers (Ok, so I just got done doing 20+trays)
 
What a great business to be in. It's a shame American consumers don't readily accept rabbit meat. None of the big markets carry it because they can't sell enough to be profitable.
 

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