Breeding problems - doe won't accept buck

[miscellaneous]

Dear friends,

I started raising rabbits again this year - after a break for a few years. I am having the worst time trying to get the rabbits to breed! I never had this issue before. The buck is willing, but the doe is giving the buck the "cold shoulder" every time!

I've tried "forced breeding," - but even then, the buck has a hard time getting lined up right and many times he leaves the doe alone when I'm sticking my hands in there.

I can't seem to get the does pregnant. I have two questions:

1. I've gotten the buck to finish the deed a few times, but with no pregnancies. It's been wickedly hot this summer - is it possible that the buck is still impotent from the heat? <It has cooled down now.>

2. The doe is unwilling. I've tried suggestions such as sunflower seeds - but I just can't seem to figure out how to make her willing. Any ideas here? <I was thinking perhaps a nice dinner and movie?? But this could get expensive for rabbits >

:?:

 

[curlysue]

Sounds silly but sometimes a car ride gets them in the mood.

 

[Mary Ann's Rabbitry]

Here is a link you should check out
Board index‹ Rabbit Care and Feeding ‹ Rabbit Care
judging-a-doe-s-readiness-and-breeding-tips-t9869.html

 

[grumpy]

The heat may well have made your buck temporarily sterile. Is the doe in close proximity to the buck? Switch cages and have the doe spend an overnight in the buck's pen and he in hers. Then see what happens.

Age....may be a factor. Weight....may be another. If the doe is over weight, she'll likely "clamp-up" and refuse service. Even if serviced, she may well not conceive because of internal fat.

Are the rabbits secure from molestation at night? A lot of factors can affect rabbits and their willingness to breed.

Just a few thoughts...I'm sure other members will offer theirs.

grumpy.

 

[jollysrabbits]

I have mentioned this before because I swear by it, I have 2 of the most stubborn rex does and if it were not for the fact that they were great moms they would have been dinner long ago! I do not switch their cages anymore, I place them in cages next to each other (buck & doe) for 2 days or so and it has worked like a charm! Works even better with 2 does that your gonna breed to the same buck, with one on either side of him. Good luck, and he may very well still be sterile.

 

[Diamond]

There was some conversation awhile back here on putting raspberry zinger tea in the water bottles.... raspberry leaf, hibiscus and rose hips are herbs that help with female problems and also are calming. I tried it and it seemed to work.... got kits, anyhow.

Biggest problem is most likely heat sterility. Nights should be cooling down soon. Keep frozen milk jugs/ pop bottles in bucks pen. Keep buck and doe cages close to eachother as mentioned. And double check to make sure it is a buck/ doe combo you are trying to breed!!! Good luck!

 

[skysthelimit]

Raspberry Zinger was a bust for me. Not going to try car rides, my does fight teeth and nail every time I take then out of the cage, taking them out, putting them in carriers, taking them out again seems like a sure way to make them upset. Chin and REW doe are 90 days post kindle and still won't breed back.

 

[MamaSheepdog]

Sky,

when you take them out, set them down and pick them up multiple times. That's what I have always done with mine. I haven't worn long sleeves in months, and I only have one scratch on my hand from one of a recent batch of rabbits I was processing.

 

[skysthelimit]

Sky, when you take them out, set them down and pick them up multiple times.

Sounds like a way for me to get multiple scratches I got bit again today, going from her cage to his,three feet away, the doe tried to jump out of my arms, and I had to hold her close, so she bit me in the shoulder. After conquering my first instinct to drop her, I got her to the buck, but she was no longer in the mood.

 

[ladysown]

sky... carry rabbits like that in a bin of some sort. I use an old milk crate (not because mine will bite, but because they feel more confident). then I can hold it up in front of the cage and she'll hop in with the buck generally quite readily.

as for does that won't breed.

1. check to see if they are fat. fat does are lazy about breeding.
2. attempt to breed daily.
3. watch the colour of the vent. Don't be afraid to stretch it a bit if they are medium pink colour as sometimes that helps to get them in the modd.
4. some does (not many, but a few) won't breed unless the buck comes to them. (I have NO clue why).
5. something may be missing in their diet.

Now.. A couple of queries.
1. what happens when you bring buck to doe? does she plant herself down? does she run and run and run and simply won't settle?
2. can and does your buck perform readily at least three times within 10 minutes?
3. have you ever gotten successful litters off your buck? He may simply be sterile.
4. how old are your does?

 

[skysthelimit]

Now.. A couple of queries.
1. what happens when you bring buck to doe? does she plant herself down? does she run and run and run and simply won't settle?
2. can and does your buck perform readily at least three times within 10 minutes?
3. have you ever gotten successful litters off your buck? He may simply be sterile.
4. how old are your does?

I've taken the advice of feeding, they get a variety of fresh greens at least every ten days. The does range from 8 months to three years old. All have had at least one successful litter. They have been weighted, at senior weight, don't think they're fat. The older doe is usually always ready to breed. I think her failure last time was heat sterility. The other two have never been very eager to breed, I have never had vent color changes that look as drastic as MSD's pictures, no one ever gets that purple or engorged. Maybe a bit pink like the second picture. The doe runs around a few times and plants herself down till I take her out.
I have 4 working bucks, all proven. The bucks hump like mad until I take the does out. The one that had her litter in June, I believe I force bred that litter. I am seriously considering just culling her. the chin doe had her last litter in June, and I culled everything from both her litters, and I am considering culling her as well. That means I will have only two Rex does of breeding age, it will be a long time till my jrs are ready to breed because my does don't show readiness till at least 6-8 mos, but at the same time, if no one's accepting bucks then I have nothing anyway.

 

[MamaSheepdog]

I got bit again today, going from her cage to his,three feet away, the doe tried to jump out of my arms, and I had to hold her close, so she bit me in the shoulder.

Bit again??? I've always wondered if rabbits would bite while being held (and why wouldn't they?), usually when I am doing nail trims since my restraining arm is conveniently in striking distance. But I have never had one bite.

The reason I advocate picking them up and setting them down several times is that they seem to realize that you are not trying to hurt them and they stop kicking. I usually take mine out, put them in the scale's basket to check weight, pick them up again, do a nail trim, set them in my grooming basket and fool around a bit with them there (groom, set up to judge type, etc.) and then take them back to their cage. If they are "wiggy" when I take them out of the scale, I pick up and set down in the grooming basket several times. None of my does have struggled at all for months- it's great. They only get handled a couple times a month- nail trims on the day of breeding, and another nail trim the week before they kindle. The bucks probably only get handled once a month for nail trims, and they are good too.

 

[reereechickens]

I got bit again today, going from her cage to his,three feet away, the doe tried to jump out of my arms, and I had to hold her close, so she bit me in the shoulder.

Bit again??? I've always wondered if rabbits would bite while being held (and why wouldn't they?), usually when I am doing nail trims since my restraining arm is conveniently in striking distance. But I have never had one bite.

The reason I advocate picking them up and setting them down several times is that they seem to realize that you are not trying to hurt them and they stop kicking. I usually take mine out, put them in the scale's basket to check weight, pick them up again, do a nail trim, set them in my grooming basket and fool around a bit with them there (groom, set up to judge type, etc.) and then take them back to their cage. If they are "wiggy" when I take them out of the scale, I pick up and set down in the grooming basket several times. None of my does have struggled at all for months- it's great. They only get handled a couple times a month- nail trims on the day of breeding, and another nail trim the week before they kindle. The bucks probably only get handled once a month for nail trims, and they are good too.

What kind of basket are you using? A regular basket from WalMart or milk crate? My DH is getting ready to make a shed soon and my buns have NOT been handled that much lately. Sounds like a great idea.

 

[skysthelimit]

These are the kind of Rexes that give Rexes a bad name. I am really trying to breed them and push them out as soon as possible, but hey haven't given my anything to keep yet, or a bunch of bucks. This doe has been handled a lot, but she has never liked me.

 

[arachyd]

Put them together in a big neutral area like a bunny-proofed bathroom and let them chase each other around for a while. Watch to make sure the doe does not hurt the buck. Something about the chasing seems to help them get in the mood. Also you might want to give greens more often than every 10 days. Mine get them every day.

 

[skysthelimit]

Put them together in a big neutral area like a bunny-proofed bathroom and let them chase each other around for a while. Watch to make sure the doe does not hurt the buck. Something about the chasing seems to help them get in the mood. Also you might want to give greens more often than every 10 days. Mine get them every day.

Not enough greens around to feed 40 rabbits more than once a week really. As winter approaches, there will be no greens to feed them. Just hay and pellets. I had litters more frequently in the winter time, when there were no greens to feed, more litters and more kits in litters.

I will look into finding a spot. Bathroom is carpeted, with a raised clawfoot tub so that's a no no. Won't they spend most of their time exploring the place?

 

[ZRabbits]

Put them together in a big neutral area like a bunny-proofed bathroom and let them chase each other around for a while. Watch to make sure the doe does not hurt the buck. Something about the chasing seems to help them get in the mood. Also you might want to give greens more often than every 10 days. Mine get them every day.

Though experienced breeder do use cages, as a newbie, and very nervous at that, used an ex-pen, which was a neutral spot for my Lion heads. Excellent idea because you have full control and can make sure both buck and doe will not hurt each other. Also it helped me with these newbies figure out the correct position. My first experience really turned out well for bunnies and myself. Hoping that the pairing was successful. BTW, green are given as a treat everyday. Especially Wheat grass. Swear by it. Hopefully in early October, Luna will prove that my diet and breeding regiment were correct and she delivers healthy kits.

Karen

 

[skysthelimit]

Put them together in a big neutral area like a bunny-proofed bathroom and let them chase each other around for a while. Watch to make sure the doe does not hurt the buck. Something about the chasing seems to help them get in the mood. Also you might want to give greens more often than every 10 days. Mine get them every day.

Though experienced breeder do use cages, as a newbie, and very nervous at that, used an ex-pen, which was a neutral spot for my Lion heads. Excellent idea because you have full control and can make sure both buck and doe will not hurt each other. Also it helped me with these newbies figure out the correct position. My first experience really turned out well for bunnies and myself. Hoping that the pairing was successful. BTW, green are given as a treat everyday. Especially Wheat grass. Swear by it. Hopefully in early October, Luna will prove that my diet and breeding regiment were correct and she delivers healthy kits.

Karen

None of these bunnies were every fed greens before they came to me, only hay and pellet fed, and they were excellent breeders. I'm actually wondering if the week and a half I spent feeding greens because I couldn't get the pellets caused some type of problem. Or the sudden switch back to pellets.

 

[ZRabbits]

Put them together in a big neutral area like a bunny-proofed bathroom and let them chase each other around for a while. Watch to make sure the doe does not hurt the buck. Something about the chasing seems to help them get in the mood. Also you might want to give greens more often than every 10 days. Mine get them every day.

Though experienced breeder do use cages, as a newbie, and very nervous at that, used an ex-pen, which was a neutral spot for my Lion heads. Excellent idea because you have full control and can make sure both buck and doe will not hurt each other. Also it helped me with these newbies figure out the correct position. My first experience really turned out well for bunnies and myself. Hoping that the pairing was successful. BTW, green are given as a treat everyday. Especially Wheat grass. Swear by it. Hopefully in early October, Luna will prove that my diet and breeding regiment were correct and she delivers healthy kits.

Karen

None of these bunnies were every fed greens before they came to me, only hay and pellet fed, and they were excellent breeders. I'm actually wondering if the week and a half I spent feeding greens because I couldn't get the pellets caused some type of problem. Or the sudden switch back to pellets.

If a rabbit is not use to it, you definitely have problems. I've learned that gradual changes are necessary for rabbits. And that I need to know what they are wean to. A baby can learn to eat anything. But you really need to know what their basis food structure was and gradually change to yours. It's one of the Number Rules I've learn to respect regarding Rabbits.

Karen

 

[skysthelimit]

If a rabbit is not use to it, you definitely have problems. I've learned that gradual changes are necessary for rabbits. And that I need to know what they are wean to. A baby can learn to eat anything. But you really need to know what their basis food structure was and gradually change to yours. It's one of the Number Rules I've learn to respect regarding Rabbits.

Karen

Sorry if I am not explaining this correctly. I've had these rabbits for many months now, so they are used to the feed. Two of the does are three years old, two are over a year and one is 8 mos. Before I got them, the older ones were fed pellets only, and had no problems breeding. When I got them, it was the dead of winter, and I had no problems getting them to breed, breed back fast and get large litters. I fed no greens in the dead of winter. Fresh greens played no role and I had fertility and willingness prior to feeding them.

Since then, I've been feeding some greens, as much as the land and time will allow. It's not possible to feed greens everyday, nor every other day. I know how to gradually introduce feed, and all they have been getting is here a little, and so forth because that is all I have here to give them. And they bred all the way up until August.
Fava may be taking a break, she's had three litters with me so far, but the others have had huge gaps between litters and the youngest two have only had one litter.

the weather has been cool for a month now.

I'm wondering, if feeding the greens IS the problem. Maybe I should leave the greens alone and go back to pellets only and hay, no greens. The greens may not be able to provide the nutrients needed for fast breed back.