Before I Get Bun....

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funnies50

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Ooooookay, before I get a bunny (my aunt is breeding hers again, so I'll be taking one) and before I say something really stupid and somebody yells at me, is there anything I need to know/should do differently with this bun?
Lol, I don't want to kill the new rabbit with a bath again....
Anyone who can help, please do! I really appreciate it and I'll be able to use just about any info offered.
Diet, caging, illness ( ;) ) everything will be accepted! Thanks guys!
:help:
 
Thank you for asking :)

We know you are really trying to learn and do what's best for you bun.

Food: If possible, feed your new rabbit EXACTLY the same brand of pellets and hay that your aunt is feeding them. It will be best if you can get about a week's worth of 'starter feed' along with the bunny, to make sure you can transition the feed slowly. In other words, feed it mostly the pellets it is used to, then slowly add in YOUR bag of pellets.

Buy just plain pellets (or whatever it's used to eating). Do NOT buy the kind with dried fruit and stuff mixed in.

Make sure the bunny always has access to water and hay. Timothy hay is best.

Give your bunny plenty of attention, but do NOT carry bunny around with you wherever you go. Bunnies prefer to stay at home.

Do not give baths!! If your bunny gets dirty (which it really shouldn't), wipe it down with a warm, damp cloth and then towel it dry.

Keep your bunny in a place where it will not get too hot. Bunnies are not comfortable much over 80 degrees and have been known to die of heat stroke at around 85 degrees (heat tolerant bunnies can handle more heat).

Do NOT give treats!!! Rabbits should not be given any sort of fruit or vegetables until they are about six months old. A LITTLE BIT of fresh greens are ok, but (especially if they have never had it before) I would recommend just waiting and then introducing other foods when it gets much older.

Don't take a bunny less than 8 weeks old.

Keep the cage clean.

Ummm... I can't think of anything else?? :p
 
I would like to add, read the forum..all the posts.There is loads of information. ..I have been through several of the areas and believe me you can learn a lot just by spending time looking around. Best of luck with your new bun. And ask questions no one is yelling at you. Everyone has made mistakes. .we just want you to learn from them so you don't have to make so many on your own ;)
 
I know we came on strong the first time, Funnies. I'm glad you're still here and learning before you get another rabbit. :)

For the first week or so, give the new bun some space. Not that you can't handle her at all... just let her spend most of her time in her cage while she gets used to the new sights, smells, and sounds. If she seems nervous, cover part of her cage with a blanket, and slowly retract it a little every day. :)
 
Why isn't it a good idea to give a bath? I'm curious because ours will get urine stains on their feet and we do put them in just a little water to wash and soak that out....but I haven't done that with the kits yet, just mom and dad, so I am really interested to know how this resulted in death
or what the harm is.....
 
Great post, Funnies.

I want to emphasize a few points made already, because they are VERY important to the health of your soon to be young bun.

First, wait until the bun is at least eight weeks old to bring it home. You may be tempted to say to yourself, "Well it isn't nursing anymore. It's eating pellets already, what harm would it do?". There is something called weaning enteritis, which can be a fatal illness, that can affect buns after they are weaned and I would hate to see you lose another bun.

Second, treats. If your aunt doesn't give her rabbits anything other than pellets on a regular basis, then I would suggest you hold off on treats for a bit after you bring your bun home. And when you start giving treats, do it slowly, and in small amounts. Maybe give a piece of romaine lettuce the size of a quarter. Or a single strawberry plant leaf. Keep a notebook of what you have given it, and when, and keep track of what it likes, and any changes to its health. Slowly add more items, and be sure to read the forum sticky on safe foods for rabbits in the Natural Feeding section for ideas on safe treats.

And I will add a new thing to think about- trimming nails. It's not hard to do, and needs to be done every few months. It helps the bun, keeps you from getting scratched, and if the bun is going toe inside, it will help protect your stuff from getting shredded. Look at your own nails and y will see the white area at the ends and then the pink quick. You want to clip the white (it may be dark color depending on the color of your bun) but not cut into the blood filled quick. Maybe ask your aunt to show you what to look for when you can.

I was tough on you before. It was not meant to hurt your feelings. I was just asking you o think a bit more about what's good for the rabbit. Starting this post is you doing that, and it makes me very happy to see. I wish you nothing but the best with your new pet. Remember you can always come here and ask questions and get help. And...remember, we love pictures here :)

Mac, just saw your bath question. Think about rabbits in the wild- the don't swim, or hop in water to clean themselves. Bathing them can literally scare to them to death. Since they groom themselves like cats, they could also over-groom themelves and possibly get in trouble with fur blocks. Urine stains on their feet can disappear on their own as the bun molts, or you could take a damp washcloth and quickly rub just their feet. Me, I would let it resolve on its own.
 
Baby animals also have a more difficult time maintaining their body temperature than adult animals.

Being moist after even a warm bath can cause a baby rabbit's core temperature to drop too low for safety.

At worst, a baby could die of hypothermia, but even if it seems to maintain heat well there is also the possibility that the immune system can simply falter from the stress of being bathed/chilled.

Everyone is saying leave the bunny at your aunts until 8 weeks, because after that age they will be a lot more likely to survive if something happens. In some states it's illegal to sell, barter, or gift kits under 8 weeks. PA and NY being the examples I like to use since I live in one of those states and NY is the next one over. :)

I believe it's legal in most of CA.
But even where it's legal, a lot of breeders just simply refuse to allow kits to leave their rabbitrys under 8 weeks.
 
macksmom98":2otao9up said:
Why isn't it a good idea to give a bath? I'm curious because ours will get urine stains on their feet and we do put them in just a little water to wash and soak that out....but I haven't done that with the kits yet, just mom and dad, so I am really interested to know how this resulted in death
or what the harm is.....
Rabbits stress very easily (it's just part of being a prey species). The bath we're talking about was a full bath, not just a little water to get the foot fur clean. A full bath should be given only in extraordinary circumstances (rabbit rolled around in motor oil). Not only is the bath itself very stressful for a rabbit, but (unless the rabbit is thoroughly THOROUGHLY blown dry on low) it can take days for the fur to completely dry again. During this time, the rabbit will be cooler than it should be, and can die of chill or of not being able to digest food properly because of low body temperature.

Even if you do blow a rabbit dry, it can die just from the stress of the whole experience -- even an adult. Or the stress can lower the immune system, and the rabbit could become ill and possibly die from that.

In cases of a rabbit with a dirty behind, some do put the rabbit in just a little water to help wash the area clean. For urine stains, I'd probably handle it the way Marinea said. It sounds like yours may be used to the routine, so it may be alright to continue what you are doing, since you are getting only the feet wet. I don't know about starting the kits on that... you'll have to make that call. I'd definitely wait until they weren't very young anymore.
 
Makes sense, just never thought of it that way before. Its so warm here I figured it would be nice to cool down a bit too.....thanks
For the info!
 
You've gotten great advice here so far, and I am glad you are trying to do some research to make sure your next bunny stays healthy.

I would like to talk a little bit about bathing not only rabbits, but animals in general. I'm sure most of us are familiar with dogs who love to swim and play in water, but hate baths. The reason for this is that even when an animal swims, it doesn't usually get wet all the way to the skin.

Fur traps air near the skin and maintains a pretty constant temperature. When you take away that pocket of air by getting the animal completely wet, they have a hard time maintaining their temperature. This is why even if you bathe a dog (especially a puppy) with warm water and then blow dry it with warm air it will continue to shiver even once it is completely dry. It is building up that layer of body temperature air near its skin.

I wanted to clarify this because we are now coming into the hot season, and no doubt we will have rabbits that go into heat distress. One of the more drastic approaches used in an advanced case of heat distress is to dunk the rabbits body in a bucket of tepid (not cold!) water. Since no soap is involved, the rabbit will not get saturated to the skin, but will have the outer part of the coat moistened. In a dry climate, the evaporation of the water from the coat will help to slowly cool the rabbit. In a moist climate, this approach is not recommended because the rabbit will remain wet for too long.

Good luck with your new rabbit, Funnies! I hope you get a great little bunny and will have many years together!
 
macksmom98":21fmdpnn said:
Makes sense, just never thought of it that way before. Its so warm here I figured it would be nice to cool down a bit too.....thanks
For the info!
You're welcome! :) It just doesn't work as you might think for a rabbit. You can mist the surface of the fur, if it's not too humid for it to evaporate in a decent time. We have pretty much the same climate, and I don't even try water-related cooling, because I'm afraid everything would mold. :? OneAcreFarm has sprinklers on the roof of her rabbitry, I believe (she's in our same general area). That I would be willing to try here. For now, we just have a fan.

If you have just a few rabbits (or a large freezer) you can freeze 2-liter bottles to give to them when it's hot. We used to do this. We had two sets of bottles. One went into the freezer when the other set came out.

Ah, I see MSD has chimed in with an excellent explanation! :)
 
This site is the best I have ever found and you can learn a lot about the dos and don'ts of rabbit raising. But you can also check out a couple of books from your local library. (I know a little old school).

Here are just a few titles and authors to check out:
1. Storey's Guide to Raising Rabbits: Breeds, Care, Facilities
By: Bennett, Bob
2. Stories Rabbits Tell: A Natural and Cultural History of a Misunderstood Creature
By: Davis, Susan E
3. Rabbit Housing: Planning, Building, and Equipping Facilities for Humanely Raising Healthy Rabbits
By: Bennett, Bob

If you are anything like me, then having multiple resources stating the same facts might help with their volatility.

I'm personally a germaphobe so I would not allow my buns to stand in their own waste. Some litter train their buns and some just have their buns on wire. Everything has it's pros and cons. So keep that in mind when you are setting up for your new bun.

Plus clean, clean, clean the old cage if you are planing on reusing it.

Best of luck. And keep searching for knowledge.
 
Aww, thanks so much guys :D Also, my little brother was briefly considering getting a rabbit too - I was just wondering, how much extra space do y'all think would be needed for 2 buns as opposed to just one? I can't really keep them in the yard because we kind of have a cat problem around where I live. :lol:
And does anybody know if buns can eat pellets only/hay only? or does it need to be a mix of everything?
Sry about all the questions guys...I don't wanna kill another one! :p

:ninjafist: :wall:
 
Rabbits are very territorial and even if they're siblings, they may have issues being with each other as adults... or not. Some same sex sibling pairs are cool with being together, but please please please have two cages ready to go if they decide to take a dislike to each other two days and six hours after they come home with you.

I live in an area saturated with cats and other predatory small animals and I make sure the largest cage wire opening I have is 1x1. I also provide an enclosed space (like a box that's only open on one end) that the rabbit can scuttle into whenever it feels threatened. This way nothing can come and get the rabbit from below, either.

Many rabbits do just fine on pellets and hay alone. I would imagine in a commercial rabbitry that's all you'd find, probably minus the hay. I think many of us feed greens, wild and domestic, since they're readily available to us via non pesticide treated fields/yards since they're free, provides variety, and we enjoy doing so. Feeding treats must be done slowly so as to not disrupt the flora in their digestive tract. Rabbits must develop the bacteria to digest new foods, which is something that is done slowly.

Good luck, and know that your first rabbit didn't pass in vain since you're realizing your mistakes and setting about correcting them. I salute you for that!! I wish more people would learn from their mistakes thusly!!
 
funnies50":21awqqsb said:
Aww, thanks so much guys :D Also, my little brother was briefly considering getting a rabbit too

As you are learning, taking care of a rabbit is more work than people think it is. IF your 'little brother' wants to get a rabbit, I suggest you consider that it's really going to be YOUR rabbit (most likely). I don't know how old your little brother is, but he may not be old enough to properly care for a rabbit. He will also have to understand that it's not OK to carry rabbits around and squeeze them and such. Rabbits are not very good pets for young kids unless there is someone, older, responsible for taking care of the rabbit.

funnies50":21awqqsb said:
how much extra space do y'all think would be needed for 2 buns as opposed to just one?

Each rabbit should have at least a 24x24 cage (for a small lionhead rabbit), or larger for a larger type rabbit.

funnies50":21awqqsb said:
And does anybody know if buns can eat pellets only/hay only?

They CAN eat just pellets, but it's not recommended. It's better to have free access to good hay and water at ALL times, and limited pellets once or twice a day, depending on how old your rabbit is, how big it is and how much your particular rabbit needs to eat.
 
funnies50":13j17moq said:
Also, my little brother was briefly considering getting a rabbit too
I think it would be good just to leave it at "was briefly considering", rather than encouraging him. If he begins considering it again, try gently to discourage it. "How about I just get a bunny for now, and you can help with him and see if you really want one. Bunnies aren't as easy to take care of as cats are."

But absolutely, if he gets a rabbit, too, you will very likely need to take care of it like you do yours.

We don't mind all the questions! :) We've had a couple of new members who have come in, asked questions, ignored the answers, ended up with big problems, and come back and ask more questions. Members will still answer, but if they're ignored that time, they don't see any point in continuing to try to help that person.

As long as you are taking it in, learning from your mistakes and our mistakes, and giving it a good go, nobody here is going to mind helping you. :)
 
Rabbits can share space, for a while.
Puberty is when things tend to get problematic.

Rabbits caged together often do end up fighting when they become sexually mature, and it can be brutal.
I've seen a buck with his nose almost completely removed by another buck...and someone on here recently posted about a doe who tore some intestine out of another she had supposedly been safely housed with for two years. o_O

I think, keeping unaltered (and sometimes altered) rabbits together can be tricky, and is best attempted by those who are experienced enough with rabbits to be able to read their body language well. (and are prepared to deal with the consequences if things get out of hand.) :yes:
 

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