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check for " rough " or dandruf "looking places, to see if you have any fur mites..

I make all my cages 24" deep, because of accessibility for moving young rabbits, and for cleaning. ** also make the doors big enough, and centrally located.

it's not poison ivy

can rats or snakes get into your cages.

If she is doing well on what you are feeding, don't change it ... Keep watching her condition, as lactation uses a lot of calories. If she begins to lose weight, feed a little more of the boss, and alfalfa. Make sure she has as much feed as she wants while nursing. Looks to me like... the diet...

welcome...

If your rabbits are eating a lot of the wood shavings, maybe-they are short on long stem fiber. They might need some grass hay, or tree branches to eat.

I use golden malrin fly poison, in a dish, on top of the metal roof over the hutches.[or under the hutches] It is very toxic, and can also be used to kill any animal..so extreme care should be taken.. That is why I put it on the metal roof,or under the hutches. If anything should spill it, it...

best of luck, Hope it all turns out well ... we do get attached ... I am still greiving the loss of one of my "pet" friends.

Your doe is most likely pregnant. You need to write the date down, and then make sure she has a nest box with bedding material in it, on day 28. If you put the box in early, there is a good chance she will use it as a bathroom, and/or her bed. Fears of defects, because of infrequent...

Quote, "What should I look into adding for fiber? We're going to be getting a few bales of alfalfa soon, I'm not sure if loose hay is better than the cubes fiber wise. I contacted the co-op today to check on their availability of wheat, oats (to see if theirs are cheaper), barley and milo so...

A mix of diferent grains is good, adding some good quality grass hay would be good, as the diet listed, is a little low in long stem fiber.

you are doing fine... in the beginning -feeding smaller amounts, more often, is good. After the kit survives a few days, and you see it is accepting the "new formula", without developing troubles, you "can" feed a little more, less often. I would say... if it ain't broke, don't fix it.

I feed a lot of garlic chives ,keeps coccidiosis and EC under control.

I have made quite a few cages. If you want stackable cages,in a metal framework, with deep slide-out litter pans. $100 / hole,-[ for 24" deep, 36" wide cages ], is not bad at all. The "good wire" is expensive, and making "quality" litter pans yourself, is both expensive and time consuming.

If you seach this site, there is an extensive list of herbs. and comments on the suitability of them as feed... safe-plants-for-rabbits-list-t55.html questions-comments-about-plant-safety-and-usesfor-rabbits-t56.html

cleaning is greatly reduced with all wire cages ..

Check the feed and hay for moldy smell or dust. Mold toxins cause a lot of Mysterious ailments. Often, moldy ingredients are included in the feed at the mill... Rabbits are much more sensitive to mold toxins, than other animals.

I have put does that had not had a litter for 6 months,in a grassy fenced yard with a "sleepy" buck to chase them around. Just to see if I could get them in "breeding shape" in a few weeks... I was thinking I would not have to worry about any "undoccumented breedings" for a while. I was wrong...

In the big picture , -litter size is mostly genetics.. It can be reduced by bucks with low sperm count, or Does that are under or over weight. Selection of quality breed stock , is the most important factor in litter size, and weaning weights.