your ideas for success

[longtail]

What does everyone do to make your operation a success.;
here are a few things I am doing.
--Develop a EBV(estimated breeding value) on breeding animals. This will involve number born, number weaned, 3 week milk weight, 4 week weaning weight, 8 week weight and 10 week weights.
--(ADG)average daily gain). computed from 3 week weight to 10 week weight.
--HI(health index). record of sore hocks, any health issues.
record of expenses.. obvious, any expenses chargeable to the rabbit operation.

I am still working out the fine points of how to rate all the different indexes on a 1-5 or 1-10 system so that only the best animals can be retained or sold as breeding units.
I am not certain on some issues as to what is most important in the long run. My market seems only to require 'rabbits' and little emphasis seems to be placed on cutability.? It would seem that as long as I can produce 6 pounders quick, I am OK. I would prefer to make a superior rabbnit in all aspects while adhering to a breed standard but the financial incentive doesnt lead me there.

 

[Shara]

Don't know if you are like me, but I really get kicks out of blazing trails (anyone who has followed me on here would see a couple hare-brained scemes. Anyways, you could set a goal fopr yourself that you want all of your rabbits to meet 6 pounds in however many weeks, then when you get close to that, you only want does who raise large litter to 6 pounds in so many weeks, ect.

 

[ladysown]

depends on what your end view is right?

My market is primarily at this time the pet crowd and the dog food crowd.
Dog food doesn't care on size as long as
1. I meet their demands
2. the rabbits are healthy and med free.

Pet crowd you need healthy animals that aren't skittish. Generally on the smaller side.
The 2-4 lb rabbits work well. So polish, dwarf hotot, brittannia, holland lops, mini rex etc.

So my focus is healthy rabbits with a good temperament in a non-medicated herd.

I judge stock on
1. temperament - a nasty animal with good health doesn't stay here
1. health - a healthy animal with a lousy temperament doesn't stay either
3. colours that sell and personal preference.
4. and then breeding toward the breed standard.

 

[HendricksHearth]

I don't raise strictly for meat, but for any animal to stay here they have to contribute. With that in mind, they must have the following qualities:

Be healthy naturally without the need for special care, excessive supplements, etc.
Have good type that fits the breed standard
Breed well (easily and consistently)
Have good fur qualities (and nice color/pattern is a plus)
Sire large/healthy litters if a buck or conceive consistently and kindle large/healthy litters if a doe
Have a nice disposition
I also prefer that all of my breeding stock be free from DQ's, but will consider brood quality in some cases if they have other "parts" I really want in the breeding program.

Lauren

 

[rabbitgeek]

One of things I was always looking for was outlets for our rabbits. That is "where" were the extra rabbits going to go.

For a while we had access to a rabbit runner who was buying for a processor so we could send our culls to be processed for meat and get a few dollars. I think they were paying a dollar per pound live weight. After that ended we didn't sell any more to a processor because there are no processors close to us in Sacramento.

Other outlets were selling breeding and show stock, so conformance to Standard Of Perfection was vital. We sold a lot of rabbit to 4H kids and our goal was "No DQs" which means no disqualifications (DQ) for show. Having been burned by some sellers as 4H parents we wanted to be sure we did not do the same to other people.

This also meant we could sell rabbits at good showbunny prices, which meant $20 to $40 each for breeding stock from registered parents, instead of $5 to $10 for meat rabbits. Non-meat breeds like Dutch, Netherlands, Hollands, Angoras and others could also be sold for $20 up to $100 or more.

Yes, angoras can be sold for meat but you have to shear them for the processor. So you can get some junior wool off of them before sending to the processor, which might be worth a dollar or two. Usually we tried to sell as angoras first, because $40 is better than $5 for meat.

Then there was a buyer who would take any rabbit for $3 each. These rabbits would be euthanized (CO2) than frozen to be used as food for zoo animals. Minimum weight required was like 3 lbs. If you could set up a deal with a zoo (or two), you could have a constant source of income.

Finally, we had a willing taker at the wildlife care association who would take carcasses for free to feed to their animals for rehabilitation. I would bonk the rabbits and freeze them whole. When I had more than a few I would meet the associate who would take my donation.

You want to be sure any rabbits for the zoo or animal rehab have not been given antibiotics because it could cause serious reaction in the animals.

Just some ideas for outlets.

Have a good day!
Franco Rios

 

[randtrabbitry]

Wow longtail thats some goals. Im a simple person so ive got simple goal to reach to make my operation a success. Im doing more what Shara said.
here are a few things im tracking
1 Health of the does and bucks
2 Litter size amount had and raised
3 4 week wean weight, 8 week weight and when was the litter sold
I sell all mine to a processor so to me the quicker they grow the better.
My end goal will be healthy does and bucks that can produce 7 to 10 kits and raise them and those kits being sold as fryers before 10 week mark If i can get them to 4 pounds by 8 weeks i will be doing the happy dance.

 

[longtail]

I think if you are in the business to make a buck, oe even just to improve a meat breed, weight checks are critical. Those females which grow the fastest will be breedable the soonest. They will also be the most efficient convertyers of feed to flesh. Wwether they go for pet feed or human food, the bottom lines remains constant. And of course the tottal pounds shipped per doe per year is a huge key.

I got into rabbits seriously in about 1973 but was only interested in showing. If I raised 3 kits per litter and 1 could win I was satisfied. Now I think that is the downfall of a breed, very short sighted especially in regard to meat breeds.
I guess I just enjoy playing and tweaking. If I had to be serious about making a living, I would choose some other enterprise.

 

[ottersatin]

I agree with you Longtail!
Rabbits are never going to make anyone rich,
they are not a "get rich quick scheme", but you can have fun
and make a few $$Bucks$$ while you're at it!
If it wasn't FUN I would no longer do it!
Though, I have to admit, there were a few times that I wanted to
toss in the towel and find a safer game! :mbounce:
Ottersatin. ldtimer:

 

[longtail]

Hey, I was breeding otter Mini Rex for some years. Did pretty good and sold out to a buddy who has taken them to even greater heights. he is THE guy to beat around here now. I really liked the Mini Rex and the otter variety, just didnt know what to do with all the young + I needed REAL rabbits again.

 

[trinityoaks]

longtail, my eyes are glazing over and crossing at just the thought of your record-keeping, but that's just me, and my goals are definitely different from yours. I probably do need to get a scale of some sort to keep track of my buns' weights at several stages, but more than that and basic breeding data, I would either go nuts or just throw up my hands.

 

[DevonW]

My record keeping is as follows:

For Rabbits:
-Pedigree
-Weight chart from 3 weeks to registration age.
-Litter data: # in litter, # raised, # weaned, # and % of show quality # Kept # sold (bucks have this data too), Colours in litter
-Record of winnings
-Record of any health issues.
-Temperament
-Quality (Pet, Show, Brood)


For my own record:
-Expense and Profit.
-Buyer contact information of every single rabbit I've sold.

For the rabbits I keep. I know what I'm looking for quality wise so I keep the best sell/cull the rest, but if the best has temperamental problems (I don't tolerate even the slightest poor attitude), stresses easily (more prone to getting sick), or poor mothering skills (I don't care how nice a rabbit is if they can't further my breeding program there is no point keeping them), so they're culled.

 

[ottersatin]

For those having problems keeping records on the rabbits in their herd,
may I suggest "Rabbit Register" By Dave Evans?
http://www.evsoft.us Phone# [413] 499-0426
Dave and his son are more than helpful if ever a problem should arise.
This is the program most breeders use.
Ottersatin. ldtimer:

 

[trinityoaks]

For those having problems keeping records on the rabbits in their herd,
may I suggest "Rabbit Register" By Dave Evans?

Thanks! I already have Kintraks, which is the only way I can keep any records at all. I guess it's not the "record-keeping" so much as the "record-taking", i.e. all the weighing, counting, figuring, etc. I do keep track of my breedings (so far, but not that many rabbits yet, and not all of them "take"), but I haven't kept up with how many does/bucks per litter, and I don't even have a scale (yet) to weigh them.

 

[longtail]

I got the Evans a little while ago, still working on its use but I think it'll help me. BUT it'll only ever be as good as I am with inputting data.

I always am willing to sell my very best show animals, did the same with the poultry. The best have the highest value to others, the breeders which made them are most valuable to me. I keep their siblings and just make more; not always tho!

I have noted that 9 times out of 10 those who do buy the show winners dead end after their 1st mating of those animals.They almost always need to buy more.!

 

[Devon's Mom Lauren]

That is why simply buying the best show winners isn't always best for your herd! Most people look at wins or a big name and don't consider whether that rabbit is going to be compatible to their herd!

 

[longtail]

Buying big can be a good thing, but what a lot of leople fail to understand is many times outcrosses wont click, and they need to begin inbreeding to recapture the gene spread resulting from the outcross. Nothing wrong with some gene spray now and then, especially in a tight bred herd. learning good selection techniques is critical also.

I found a doe which really clicked with my white show buck. She is popping out very consistant litters to him and so I have retained a couple of her doelings as replacements, will take back to their sire. This was a smallish doe but when I bought her from an Amish meat producer I thought she showed potential, + I was able to see her sire and litter mates. It worked out. The other does I began with were just OK bred to the same buck.

 

[albernmatt]

I think if you are in business to make money, or, and the beef breeds is weight control are even more critical. These women are the fastest growing breed able early. They are also the most effective convertibles food and meat. Whether to food or feed, the bottom constantly. And of course, be transferred to total pounds per year die is a big key.