Yet another "What cage size" question

[JasonR]

Hello all. I'm new here and I've been reading a great deal and finally decided to join and ask the question that I really need an answer to. I've read 2 books, searched all over the internet and read a great deal but I just want to be sure of a couple answers before I order my cages.

I'm looking at starting off with 2-3 breeding does to raise meat rabbits. The cages that I'm looking at are 30x24x18. I'm leaning towards KW Cages because of the good things I've heard about their cages and their overall price. KW doesn't have the cages that I want in any size wider than 30" while maintaining a 24" depth. I'm afraid a 30" depth will be too much, especially since I have a young daughter who will be helping. I'm currently looking at buying 6 cages. 1 for a buck, 3 for does (we will probably only start with 2 does) and 2-3 as growout pens. I will add more pens later when needed.

1) Are 30x24x18 big enough to use as growout pens for NZ and California litters? Or a better way to ask it is, specifically, how many weaned kits should I expect to be able to grow out in a cage that size?

2) Approx how many kits should I expect per litter with those breeds?

3) KW offers an upgrade to 14 ga flooring. Is that something I should consider? The cages will be hung from the ceiling of our barn.

4) They sell a single piece 3 cage unit that is basically 3 separate cages, but all built together as one long unit. This is much cheaper than buying individual cages. Would I regret doing that? If it's better, I'm willing to pony up the money to buy individual cages.

I'm sorry for all the questions, but I really appreciate the help. I just want to get advice from people with real world experience.

Thanks,

Jason

 

[Marinea]

Welcome to RT!

I raise New Zealand's, and I will tell you what I do.

The 30x24 cage is fine for bucks. For the does, myself, I would go with the KW 48x24 two compartment cages and not put in the divider. I would have each doe in a cage that size. It leaves room for what will be a large nestbox and, hopefully, large litters. I would definitely upgrade the flooring and also go with the baby saver wire option.

I would also have two grow out cages that size, and would breed two does at any one time. That allows you to foster kits if needed, and gives you an option should something go wrong. My does give from 8-14 kits per litter, and at eight weeks they can fill up a cage quickly.

There are folks here with hanging cages, and I think I have read some tricks here for making it work better. Hopefully they will chime in.

Good luck!

 

[SableSteel]

1) According to the animal welfare act and care guidelines on the ARBA website, a NZ or californian doe needs at least 6 square feet for raising a litter (which would be 36" by 24" if your max depth is 24")

2) Between 6-10. It varies depending on the lines, and other factors, so it might take a few litters to figure out your line's average. Asking the breeder of the does what they average might give a general idea too.

3) It would help the bottom not rust out as quickly, and it would help against sore hocks. However, you can get resting mats to help against sorehocks, so Im not sure its worth it

4) I'd do it. Also, the dividers that separate the cages are *usually* movable, so you can change the width if you find its too small. For example, you could turn it from 3 cages to 2 cages that are 50% bigger than the original cages.

This might work for you : https://www.kwcages.com/cages/modular-w ... -cage.html
If you're getting it shipped, then only use one of the wire partitions in assembly, and put it right in the middle (so you have two 36" x 24" cages), if its already assembled you could take wire cutters and remove both partitions, then put one back right in the center (either with those fancy cage clips things KW sells for assembly or zip ties work too)

And I agree, go with the baby saver wire

 

[Zass]

Buying cages is one of those things that is actually a lot less costly in the long run if you make the large initial investment to get exactly what you want the first time.

1) Even with my medium sized rabbits, I find 24x48x18 cages to be cramped well before my preferred weaning age. Since I don't have any 30 inch pens, I couldn't say how many kits would be comfortable in one.

2) Expect around 9 or 10 kits per litter at weaning. I always seem to get about that many, no matter what stock I happen to have. :roll:

3) Absolutely go with the 14 gauge floors if you have the option. It's a worthy investment. The cages will last longer, and your rabbits will be less likely to experience any foot trouble. I third the opinion that baby saver is worth having on any cage a doe may kindle in.

Funny thing, the only part of my cages that didn't come with baby saver was the doors. It only took a few months to find a kit trapped in the door wire, waving it's paws helplessly. I was lucky enough to save the little guy. Hardware cloth can be used for baby saver if the cages do not come with it.

4) The connected cages would be fine, especially if made into two larger pens instead of three smaller ones. Just keep in mind that rabbits can breed (I've even seen it on video), fight, or spray each other(with urine) through wire dividers.
If I'm partitioning rabbits, I prefer solid dividers.

 

[JasonR]

Thank you for all the help and suggestions, it is very helpful. I'm going to try and break this down again to be sure I'm clear on everything.

1) I'm still not 100% sure exactly how big my grow out cages should be or maybe I should say how many sq.ft. each kit needs until it's butchered. Even if I end up with smaller grow out cages, I can always put fewer kits per cage. Obviously the bigger the better. The grow out cages seem to be my biggest hang up. I see people talking about putting 8-10 kits in a 36x24 and other people saying they only put 3-4 in a 48x24. I definitely don't want to be inhumane but I also don't want to/can't spend tons of money buying huge cages for kits that will be slaughtered in short order. I'm looking for a happy medium on sq.ft. space per kit. I hope that makes sense.

2) Thanks for the litter size help.

3) I was thinking the 14 ga. floor upgrade was probably a good idea but I wasn't sure. The cost is about $10 per cage but its a little less if I order the longer cages. I am definitely planning on ordering with the baby saver wire, its a cheap upgrade.

4) Thanks for the info on the long cages, it's really appealing and cheaper too. I never thought about moving around the partitions but since I'll be ordering them unassembled I would think it would be easy for me to not put the partition in or to move it wherever I wanted.


Again, I really appreciate all the help. It's so hard to plan these things out correctly and I'm one of these people who likes to measure twice and cut once. Meaning, I'd rather over plan and under plan. I know there are always surprises and things don't go as planned but at least it won't be because I didn't ask a bunch of questions.

 

[Zass]

1) I'm still not 100% sure exactly how big my grow out cages should be or maybe I should say how many sq.ft. each kit needs until it's butchered. Even if I end up with smaller grow out cages, I can always put fewer kits per cage. Obviously the bigger the better. The grow out cages seem to be my biggest hang up. I see people talking about putting 8-10 kits in a 36x24 and other people saying they only put 3-4 in a 48x24. I definitely don't want to be inhumane but I also don't want to/can't spend tons of money buying huge cages for kits that will be slaughtered in short order. I'm looking for a happy medium on sq.ft. space per kit. I hope that makes sense.

It seems like, it might be helpful to see what the cages look like all packed full of kits.

I'll see if I can get a few picks of mine. If a few others do the same, maybe you will be able to get an idea of how many you would be comfortable with.

 

[alforddm]

I will second going with the 14 gauge floor wire. I built my own cages 2 years ago and used the tractor supply floor wire. I'm already having to sand and paint the floors to keep them from rusting out.

I'm going to be investing in some 14 gauge Galvanized after weld floor wire and replacing all the current floor wire as soon as I can swing it money wise.

 

[JasonR]

I called KW just to confirm that their wire was galvanized after welding and they said it was. I'm hoping they will help with the rust. Sounds like 14 ga is a good upgrade. Thanks!

 

[Chicken-Farmer]

We raise californians and new zealands. Our breeding cages are 36x24 with drop cages and work fine for litters until weaning. Our growout cages are 48x30 and we combine two weaned litters into each cage until 8-9 weeks when we butcher.
We hang our cages using 3/4" Electrical Conduit and rope. 14 GAW floors are a must in my opinion. A cage full of growouts can easily weight 60 lbs or more. The thicker floor will not sag under the weight.
As for baby saver wire, we don't use it and have never had a problem in the last four years. It would be nice to have, but not a game stopper.
Spend the money to buy quality cages. Homemade cages seem cheaper until you have to replace them in a few years. Our cages are 4 years old and look brand new