Would this work??

[WildWolf]

I have a very large space for does: I have a 3ft by 3ft hutch with a 2ft 10inches by 16inches box attached, which is connected by a small room about 20inches by 28inches with a 3ft by 4ft hutch with a 2ft 10inches by 2ft box attached. All of that is on two 2-by-4s suspended between two trees. Then, I have a roughly 10ft by 20ft run, which the bunnies have access to when I pick them up or open the door and let them down a ladder.
Here is a post, with pictures of my set-up, from a year ago (I've replaced the hidey hole with a bigger one, and the shelf is gone, since my SF are bigger than my first 2 rabbits): not-sure-about-this-t8293.html

:!: If that is too confusing, just think of it as an 11ft 14inches by 3ft hutch with another extra 2ft 10inches by 16inches box. All of that is suspended between 2 trees. The hutch is attached to a 10ft by 20ft run.

How many does, and litters, would this set-up hold- if the does have 24-7 access to the hutch and run?
Could I fit 2 does, 1 4-week old litter, and 1 8-week old litter? I would be moving the litter to a grow out pen once they are 8 weeks.
Or, is it possible to fit 2 does, 1 4-week old litter, 1 8-week old litter, and 1 12-week old litter? I would move the litter to a separated grow out pens once they are 12 weeks.

A side note: I do not think that baby bunnies can run up the ladder from the run into the hutch. They would stay in the run. I was going to keep it that way so that the does may have a break from the litter if they wanted. However, I can easily build a ramp for them to climb into the hutch, if that would be better. Which would be better? Would it even matter?

Figuring out how to house litters is complicated. opcorn: Thanks for the help in advance!!

Edited to change my breeding status: I am now able to breed!!

 

[Bad Habit]

.... That's entirely too many numbers for my poor brain right now... but I hope it works!! Good luck

 

[LauraNJ]

Our hutch is a total of 16 feet by 3 feet. I have 1 buck and 3 does in that space. Each in their own area, the hutch has dividers between each rabbit. We have beverens which average somewhere around 10-12 lbs. My adult does are all over 11 lbs.

I don't have an attached run so with your additional space I would think you have the space for the 2 does, the 4 week old litter, the 8 week old litter. The 12 week old litter I would separate since some may breed earlier than others. I would be concerned that at that age you are entering into breeding time.

You have more of a colony setting then hutch/cage setting which I have 0 experience with colonies so take what I said with a grain of salt. It may be ok for the 12 week olds, but it would make me a little nervous. I don't know what you have to do for everyone to get along (ie: does with litters with each other and their litters). I am sure someone with colony experience will give some more advice.

 

[Marinea]

I don't show, and am no expert, so keep that in mind...

I think the issue you may have with a colony setup while wanting to show is not being able to have a good control over breeding. You didn't mention a buck in your plans, so I am assuming he would have a separate cage. If that's the case, it sounds better, but I would still be concerned over keeping a good eye on condition of the does you want to show while in a colony.

In your shoes, I would be tempted to divide the space into individual cages. Keep the run for exercise. I would have doe cages and grow out cages for the litters.

No matter what you decide, I would love to see some current pictures Good luck.

 

[Dood]

I think 10x20 + 2x(2x1 + 3x3) [I think I got that right] would be more than enough space for two does and a few litters.

Could I fit 2 does, 1 4-week old litter, and 1 8-week old litter? I would be moving the litter to a grow out pen once they are 8 weeks.
Or, is it possible to fit 2 does, 1 4-week old litter, 1 8-week old litter, and 1 12-week old litter? I would move the litter to a separated grow out pens once they are 12 weeks.

However, in my experience neither of these will work as the older kits will drain all the does milk and the younger litter will starve. I would pull the older kits once the next litter is born or they are weaned.

Another forseable problem is if you have litters at the same time, the does may fight over nesting areas and kill each others kits, by trampling or dragging out the other does offspring. Even if they co-exist in the same nest box, with a double litter of 12-24 it is highly likely that some of the kits will hog the milk and you will have some starve.

I had a breeding colony as a kid and now keep my breeders in their own cages. Others have managed to work things out so they may be able to teach you their tricks but I dont recommend breeding colonies.

 

[WildWolf]

I think the issue you may have with a colony setup while wanting to show is not being able to have a good control over breeding. You didn't mention a buck in your plans, so I am assuming he would have a separate cage. If that's the case, it sounds better, but I would still be concerned over keeping a good eye on condition of the does you want to show while in a colony.
In your shoes, I would be tempted to divide the space into individual cages. Keep the run for exercise. I would have doe cages and grow out cages for the litters.
No matter what you decide, I would love to see some current pictures Good luck.

I do not show, and I will keep the buck separate. And I have done a colony set up with 2 small rabbits, and their condition was good. What would cause their condition to worsen, other than scratches (which will not be that much of a problem once they have all settled down)? I'm trying to keep down the number of cages... wire here is kind of expensive. Also, I will try to post pictures tomorrow.

However, in my experience neither of these will work as the older kits will drain all the does milk and the younger litter will starve. I would pull the older kits once the next litter is born or they are weaned.
Another forseable problem is if you have litters at the same time, the does may fight over nesting areas and kill each others kits, by trampling or dragging out the other does offspring. Even if they co-exist in the same nest box, with a double litter of 12-24 it is highly likely that some of the kits will hog the milk and you will have some starve.

The kits won't wean unless you take them away from their mother? Even if their mother could go to the hutch when they cannot? I did not know that. hmm... that changes things. I think that the best way to avoid fights over nesting areas is simply to provide multiple nesting sites and hidey holes. Does anyone with a colony set up have suggestions for preventing nest fighting and litters not weaning? (by the way- what would they do in the wild? I have no clue.)

I don't have an attached run so with your additional space I would think you have the space for the 2 does, the 4 week old litter, the 8 week old litter. The 12 week old litter I would separate since some may breed earlier than others. I would be concerned that at that age you are entering into breeding time.

I am going to move the litters into separated grow out pens once they are 12 weeks. I'm hoping to keep the litter in the run as long as possible- just until they are 12 weeks old. Thanks for the estimate!

Thank you everyone for your advice!! I'm still a beginner when it comes to rabbits, and I haven't bred my first litter yet.
Having colonies is complicated... but I really like the idea of it, for multiple reasons that I won't get into on this post

 

[Marinea]

I want to breed, for pet, show and meat

I was going by this when I mentioned showing. As to their condition, I would think it would be more difficult to monitor each rabbit's weight, fur (urine stains, scratches, etc), and such in a colony situation.

There have also been quite a few posts about breeding issues in a colony setting. You might want to take a look through those and look for things to do before you get started to avoid problems down the road.

I am not trying to change your mind, please understand. I would just hate to see problems come up and discourage you down the road.

 

[Dood]

What would cause their condition to worsen, other than scratches

Any missing fur, or white areas caused by scars are disqualifications. It will also be difficult to keep them clean in an earthen run and staining of the fur is likely.

Even if their mother could go to the hutch when they cannot

How are you going to keep the kits out of the hutch? I think you are underestimating their jumping capabilities, my 4 week old kits can easily jump 24 inches and some of the older ones have gone over 36 inches. My adult AmChins are not very enthusiastic jumpers compared to the kits but can easily do 24 inches as well.

I think that the best way to avoid fights over nesting areas is simply to provide multiple nesting sites and hidey holes

Even with several nesting sites, one may be prefered by both does. I had a nest for each doe but 3 females prefered the one spot and when the dominant doe had a false pregnancy she pulled out an entire litter of 10 day olds and scattered them around the run. All but one died and she was missing a front leg.

what would they do in the wild?

The doe has much more room to avoid the kits in the wild and wild rabbits are more vicious to their mature offspring, and each other, than our domesticated ones. Nastyness has been pretty much been bred out of them so they can tolerate being handled and farmed.

I'm hoping to keep the litter in the run as long as possible- just until they are 12 weeks old.

I may be mistaken but I dont recall reading that you had a wire floor to the run, a 12 week old rabbit will dig, a 4 week old rabbit will dig. They may not create a 3 foot tunnel in under an hour, but I would not trust any rabbit of any age in a simple wire pen on dirt without a wire floor or a roof/top of some sort.

 

[WildWolf]

There have also been quite a few posts about breeding issues in a colony setting. You might want to take a look through those and look for things to do before you get started to avoid problems down the road.
I am not trying to change your mind, please understand. I would just hate to see problems come up and discourage you down the road.

I have been trying to go back and read them all- it's taking me some time And I meant that I want to breed, and be able to sell meat, show, and pet rabbits to people. I will only use the rabbits as meat rabbits.

Any missing fur, or white areas caused by scars are disqualifications. It will also be difficult to keep them clean in an earthen run and staining of the fur is likely.

Oh, ok. I don't want to show, so it won't be that much of a problem for me.

How are you going to keep the kits out of the hutch? I think you are underestimating their jumping capabilities, my 4 week old kits can easily jump 24 inches and some of the older ones have gone over 36 inches. My adult AmChins are not very enthusiastic jumpers compared to the kits but can easily do 24 inches as well.

It's not really jumping.. it's more climbing up a ladder. I'm going to see if my buck (he's 10 weeks old) can climb the ladder. I'll report back

The doe has much more room to avoid the kits in the wild and wild rabbits are more vicious to their mature offspring, and each other, than our domesticated ones. Nastyness has been pretty much been bred out of them so they can tolerate being handled and farmed.

That's true. I will be working very hard to cull out nastyness from my herd!

I may be mistaken but I dont recall reading that you had a wire floor to the run, a 12 week old rabbit will dig, a 4 week old rabbit will dig. They may not create a 3 foot tunnel in under an hour, but I would not trust any rabbit of any age in a simple wire pen on dirt without a wire floor or a roof/top of some sort.

I forgot to mention- I do have wire on the floor of the run. And I'm actually going to add tunnels, but that's a project after I get this figured out.

Even with several nesting sites, one may be prefered by both does. I had a nest for each doe but 3 females prefered the one spot and when the dominant doe had a false pregnancy she pulled out an entire litter of 10 day olds and scattered them around the run. All but one died and she was missing a front leg.

Wow, that would've been sad... If my does end up to be very dominant, then I have two ideas:

1- I could have 2 cages that can be attached to the run. I could put a doe in one of the cages when she is about to start making a nest. Then she will make her nest and give birth in that cage, and, once the kits are born, I can open the door between the cage and the run. And when the second doe is about to start making a nest (the other doe's kits will be 4wks old by then), I'll put the second doe in the second cage. And when she gives birth, I'll open the door to the run.
I know it seems like a lot more work than simple cages... but my rabbits love going into the run! Every time I go down there, they run to the door, and they are so eager to go into the run that they lean out over the edge when I open the door. And if they get along, then I think that they are more happier together- at least, my first two rabbits were.

2- Or, I could split the run or separate the hutch from the run and do as I was saying above. One doe would be confined to the hutch until she gave birth, then one doe would be confined to the run until she gave birth.

Does anyone who breeds in a colony have any suggestions?

Edited to add: I am going to go with my first idea, with attachable cages with nest boxes. I will go ahead and build them, but I don't think I'll use them unless I have does who are extremely dominant towards one another, or it becomes a problem for some other reason. For every person who has a problem with their does fighting over nests, there's another person whose colonies work perfectly fine. I think it just depends on your individual rabbits' personalities. Hopefully mine are nice and docile!