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sungura

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Hello, I am new here and interested in raising a few rabbits in my backyard for meat. I've been very interested in the Champagne d argent rabbit, but have heard that they don't bear much young, or can be difficult to breed. Also, they're pretty difficult to find in my area... at least ones that people are willing to sell. So here's my dilemma, which breed to choose for meat? I'm interested in:

Champagne d Argent (not easily available)
Rex
Silver Fox

If you guys wouldn't mind helping me out with pros/cons of each breed. The Rex and Silver Fox rabbits are more prevalent where I live.
I also would like rabbits that won't take my hand off when I am caring for them. I realize that's completely dependent on the individual as well.
Thanks a bundle.
 
There is a ton of variety within a breed. Some have nice New Zealands and ill tempered Silver Fox, some have argents who are prolific and NZs that won't breed.

Rex in my area sometimes have difficulty putting on weight. I've also noticed fussy tempers and sore hocks. Other lines just don't have those problems.

Silver Fox does in my area are neurotic and hate-all-humans. Mostly irrationally fearful, but sometimes aggressive. The bucks are like sweet puppies. Both genders are easy-to-handle.

No experience with local argents.

IMO good rex would be much better than mediocre argents or SF. Good argents will be better than mediocre rex or SF. Good SF will be much better than mediocre rex or argents.

So, I would suggest having a look around, find someone with lovely, healthy rabbits that are raising and handling them similarly as you intend to raise yours.
Ask about litter sizes and mothering ability.
Since you mentioned that you want something you can handle, ask if the does are "protective." "Protective" means "mean biting animal" in my book. They do not have to be that way to raise lots of healthy babies.
Good mothering instincts and aggression are NOT the same things. From my experience, aggressive does are actually more likely to trample and harm their kits.

Be wary of some show-only breeders, as they sometimes forgive traits that a strict meat raiser wouldn't accept.
They certainly don't all do that, but it is something to look out for.

Most importantly, I like to advise would-be meat raisers to source their rabbits from someone who also enjoys the taste of rabbit :)
 
OK, thanks! Another quick question. How important is it that the parents be pedigreed? I am pretty much only breeding for meat and don't intend to sell the babies. But I was thinking it would be at least nice to have a pair that have good genes?
 
Pedigrees are really just breeder's records.
Anyone can write a pedigree, they don't guarantee good genes or good lines at all.
If weights are carefully recorded on them they can be of help.

Pedigrees would be useful if you plan on breeding and selling broodstock in the future.

For meat rabbits that you don't plan on selling, it's really one of the least important things.

Look for mothering ability, temperament, litter sizes, and growth rates, health and hardiness to your climate.
You will find those are the most valuable traits in meat rabbits, and are never recorded on pedigrees!
 
My mutts are my best producers and so I don't recommend getting a purebred.

If I were to start again I would save my money ($40 to $50 each for my 5 purebred AmChins) and place a wanted ad for rabbit meat and buy a trio of kits from the breeders best production bloodlines :)

I am also selecting for a smaller adult size (ideally 7-9 pounds) as the 1 x 1/2 wire flooring on some of my cages is too small for all the fecal matter to fall through and I am getting tired of scraping out and stubbing the "poop pancakes" in my doe cages :(
 
Dood":2cylndau said:
My mutts are my best producers and so I don't recommend getting a purebred.

If I were to start again I would save my money ($40 to $50 each for my 5 purebred AmChins) and place a wanted ad for rabbit meat and buy a trio of kits from the breeders best production bloodlines :)
Click to expand...

Ooh, good idea!

I am also selecting for a smaller adult size (ideally 7-9 pounds) as the 1 x 1/2 wire flooring on some of my cages is too small for all the fecal matter to fall through and I am getting tired of scraping out and stubbing the "poop pancakes" in my doe cages :(
Click to expand...
My mutts are also my all-time best producers, and the does are only running about 8.5 lbs right now. They fit in my 24X48X18 inch cages better than the really big Silver Foxes did.
 
No matter which breed you choose make sure the breeder you choose has the same goals for their herd as you. It'll save you much stress getting rabbits that are bred for raising more than two small litters per year and don't need lots of coddling and special attention to breed.

I raise Rex for meat, showing, and fur. I have a certain amount of meat per year I need from my herd and it took me a little while to find and breed rabbits that do everything I want my herd to do. I like my Rex to be on the larger side but that's not as important to me as a faster growth rate, I'm too impatient and haven't enough cage space to wait 4 months for butcher weight. I do grow a few from each litter a bit longer if they look promising enough to keep but I seldom keep more than one a year.
 
Ok, thanks so much everyone. Can I ask what kind of mutts you all have? I really only have space for a pair of rabbits and one grow out cage. And don't mind waiting 4 months, or a little longer :pancake: for them to mature to a nice butcher weight. My friend is interested in New Zealand's. And I've found a couple NZ/Californian mixes in my area. I'm so excited! Looking to get something going by the end of this month.

Where do you all get your cages from? I've been cruising craigslist, but have only seen a few ads, and they were 2+ hours away from me. I really can't go that far, especially in a work vehicle, which is what I'll need to borrow to transport the cages.
 
The majority of my mutts are from my America Chinchilla does and a New Zealand x Flemish giant buck.

I am now breeding to a Mini Lop x AmChin buck who got to 5 pounds in 11 weeks (but stopped growing at 7lb 9oz) on a mostly forage based diet to see if he passes these traits onto his kits - fingers crossed :)

A general idea of your location is needed to direct you to cage suppliers, but if you are in southern Ontario then Grandview Rabbitry by Waterloo has a great selection and will do custom orders :)
 
My mutts are a mix of Flemish giants, New Zealand, Silver Fox and Lilac.
It's the Lilac genes that are keeping the size down, and the temperaments sweet.

I ordered my cages from http://www.klubertanz.com/.
They seem nice to me, and were easy to put together. What was nice about ordering was being able to get the cage sizes that would best fit my setup. The price was a lot better than I thought it would be, even with shipping!
Ordering in spring was a mistake though, as it took a really long time to get my cages! (they were swamped with orders)

Whatever you do, don't bother with those wooden hutches that are sold by Tractor supply co. They are overpriced and start rotting out before the end of a year.
 
I agree with Dood, Zass and 3mina.

Whatever you get, it has to be good producer or from good producers.

I have Rex from coast to coast, and as far as I see temperaments suck!!! I cull kits out the box it they do anything besides lay in my arms.

The SF are good, and Angoras are better.

As far as growth, Angoras, then SF then Rex. Though my Rex line is growing faster.


The Rex are prolific, just can't be beat, with litters of 8-12 regularly. Which is probably why they don't grow as fast too.

If I could only have one, I'd be in a bind, as they all serve different purposes, but the best all arounder is the Angora, but SF has the best dress out weight of all three.
The cages, I either inherited, made or ordered from Bass.
 
I really only have space for a pair of rabbits and one grow out cage. And don't mind waiting 4 months, or a little longer :pancake: for them to mature to a nice butcher weight.
Click to expand...

Here's the catch, your fryers may start fighting or even breeding if kept together for 4 months in one growout pen.

I don't know anyone who wants to butcher pregnant does.

One of the main reasons breeders strive for meat rabbits who are butcher size between 8 and 12 weeks is to avoid having fryers around post-puberty.

I separate males from females at 8 weeks, and most agree it should be done by 12.
 
:yeahthat:

Even if you decide to stick to two breeding rabbits (I think you might be one of the few who are immune to rabbitosis acquirosis), I would seriously consider a second grow out cage. A large litter, an injury requiring quarantine, or any number of other issues can make you end up trying to cobble something together in the middle of the night. I have two grow out cages, an "oh no" cage, and am looking to add another. And I only have three breeding rabbits right now.

As to which breed, if you want rabbits for meat, I would recommend New Zealands. I have had mine for just over a month now, after switching from Dutch rabbits. My NZ are friendly, calm, and growing like mad. I am going to raise the reds and blacks, because they are rare around here, and I will be able to sell what I don't eat.

No matter what you decide, good luck!
 
Zass":2uju6tvl said:
I really only have space for a pair of rabbits and one grow out cage. And don't mind waiting 4 months, or a little longer :pancake: for them to mature to a nice butcher weight.
Click to expand...

Here's the catch, your fryers may start fighting or even breeding if kept together for 4 months in one growout pen.

I don't know anyone who wants to butcher pregnant does.

One of the main reasons breeders strive for meat rabbits who are butcher size between 8 and 12 weeks is to avoid having fryers around post-puberty.

I separate males from females at 8 weeks, and most agree it should be done by 12.
Click to expand...
Ahh, good idea! I never thought About that. Thanks for the insight!
 
I know I'm way late to the party (been busy; lots of young chicks hatching, dealing with goslings growing up, oh and the rabbits struggling through our heat wave), but for what it's worth, I echo everyone's comments about making sure to try to get "good" stock regardless of what breed or mix you choose. It's amazing the difference you will see when there is genetic potential to perform well... versus the lack of genetic potential. I somehow ended up with Americans that rock my socks off with huge litters and year-round breeding, and Champagnes that have more modest litters and tend to take little breaks here and there. But the beauty of the Champagne furs and carcass quality can be breathtaking.

But I mostly wanted to hijack the thread, as I haven't seen the word "sungura" for some years. Kiswahili FTW!
 
I don't know if you've considered them, but I've had my best luck with Californians. My calis are the best moms with the largest litters and I am getting to the point where my growout rates are really good. I got rid of my NZs, but I do plan on looking for better ones in the future. I'm sure it was just the stock I got. I do have some good meat mutts, but their litter sizes are a little smaller than I'd like. They do have pretty colors and great temperament, so I'm trying to breed up with them. Good luck. The fun part of rabbits is you can mix and match and add-on until you get what you want/need.
 
good ideas everyone. I just got a NZ/Californian buck and have a Flemish/NZ doe. so I'm going to see how they do. my county fair is coming up and I get free season passes from my job so I fear I will suffer from rabbit aquiridosis! UGH! Must resist! I'll post pics of the rabbits at the fair next week!
 

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