What to feed to help increase milk production?

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ek.blair

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So Trixy, my doe that has week old kits, seems to have way less milk than Betsy, my doe with two week old kits. I fed them a bit of fennel seed, but that was over a week ago the day before Trixy had her kits. When I picked Betsy up tonight I could feel that she was quite full then when I went and picked Trixy up I could hardly feel her mammary glands. Is that normal? Also it seems like every evening when I check on Trixy's kits they are always looking for food! I gave her some more fennel seed tonight, but is there anything else I can do or give her to help increase the milk production? Or just not worry about it...
 
I made the mix you suggested of 1 oats, 1 flax, 1/2 BOSS, 1/4 fennel. I don't have ready access to nettle. I will try to get some from Amazon and in the meantime continue with the fennel mix.
 
We were having milk issues with at least one and possibly 2 netherland does and the chinchillas. With the grain and herb mix the doe who had definite problems is actually overproducing milk now. Her whole belly has been full of milk to the point it makes higher up on her sides look sunken and without the mastitis we got when using calf manna. We have a much more complicated grain mix though. Somewhere is the entire original list of everything I tossed in to see what was eaten and what wasn't. Half of it is probably not necessary once the nutrients are balanced between the most edible foods. Then I've mixed small amounts of it with other things like edible flower petals or bee pollen. Bee pollen failed. No one ate it. I put in fortified sugar free cereal for extra vitamins and minerals instead.
 
I'm not trying to rain on anyone's parade, but something needs to be considered.
All of the nutrient support and added "this's or thats's" isn't the issue.
It's the issue of a poor milk-production doe. One that, with a good balanced
diet, is failing to produce enough milk to meet her litter's demands.

You need to ask yourself the hard question: "Do I want to "continue" this
genetic defect into the future? And.....probably have the same issue with the offspring?" Or......does it need to end here?

Again, it's something that needs to be thought over. Just my opinion.

grumpy.
 
grumpy":1g98szaj said:
I'm not trying to rain on anyone's parade, but something needs to be considered.
All of the nutrient support and added "this's or thats's" isn't the issue.
It's the issue of a poor milk-production doe. One that, with a good balanced
diet, is failing to produce enough milk to meet her litter's demands.

You need to ask yourself the hard question: "Do I want to "continue" this
genetic defect into the future? And.....probably have the same issue with the offspring?" Or......does it need to end here?

Again, it's something that needs to be thought over. Just my opinion.

grumpy.
Thank you grumpy, and I do agree. I will not be keeping any of her kits as they are meat mutts and this is also the doe that is more difficult to get pregnant. I will be breeding the does for another litter in a few weeks and if she takes she will have another chance to see how she produces and if she doesn't she will probably be done since I am picking up my Silver Fox this weekend.
 
Borage (Borago officinalis)
Family: Boraginaceae

Powerful tonic and nervine. Borage is rich in calcium, phosphorous and mineral salts. The seeds are a rich source of GLA. Borage is particularly useful when fed during drug treatment, recovery and periods of stress as it acts on the adrenal cortex, restoring and reviving the function of this important gland. Will greatly increase milk flow. Used externally for general eye ailments and as a ringworm remedy.

Constituents: Saponins; mucilage; tannins; essential oil.
Actions: Diaphoretic, expectorant, tonic, anti-inflammatory, galactagogue.

Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale)
Family: Compositae

One of the most valuable plants known to the herbalist. Blood cleansing and tonic, it has an important effect on the hepatic system. The leaves strengthen the enamel of teeth. Goats graze well on it, too. The presence of potassium makes dandelion a very balanced diuretic, but it should not be fed in large amounts due to its laxative properties.

"Dandelion is an excellent food given fresh in unlimited quantities. Fermenting or wilted plants can cause bloat. Dandelions are one of the most nutritious food plants for rabbits. Being rich in protein and poor in fiber. The digestibility percentage is high at an estimated 70%. Well known for it's curative powers. The bitter milky sap stimulates the working of all glands, including the milk glands of lactating does. The plant has both laxative and astringent qualities and regulates constipation and diarrhea.
Dandelion is good for many things in people and can be used for rabbits with these problems also: preventing osteoporosis (for the old bunny), bladder infections, lactating, liver problems, swelling, tonsillitis, warts, and pneumonia.

Constituents: Glycosides triterpenoids; choline; up to 5% potassium; sesquiterpene lactones; bitter principle; taraxin; triterpines including taraxol and stigmasterol; phenolic acids; polysaccharides; carotenoids.

Actions: Diuretic, cholagogue, laxative, anti-rheumatic, tonic.

Dill
Increases milk production, increases appetite, increases intestinal health. Leaves work, but seeds are stronger. Sprinkling of seeds over pellets.

Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare)
Family: Umbelliferae

Sweet Fennel is a valuable food for rabbits. An excellent vegetable for lactating Does and sows as it increases milk production. Produces an abundance of sweet milk in dairy animals, too. Fennel is an important medicinal plant possessing highly antiseptic and tonic properties. For digestive ailments including colic, constipation, fever and worms.

Constituents: Volatile oil; flavanoids; coumarin.

Actions: Stimulates and soothes the stomach, relieves wind, galactagogue.

Goat's Rue (Galega officinale)
Family: Leguminosae

Goat's Rue is the most powerful of all herbs for increasing milk supply and it may also stimulate the development of the mammary glands.

Constituents: Alkaloid saponins; flavone glycosides; bitters; tannin.

Actions: Reduces blood sugar, galactogogue, diuretic, diaphoretic.

Nettles (Urtica dioica)
Family: Urticacea

When dried, nettles loose their sting. One of the richest sources of chlorophyll in the vegetable kingdom. Excellent forage being rich in iron, lime, sodium and chlorine. It is a preventative against many contagious ailments, also a worm preventative. Increases milk yield. A long famed fattener of poultry. Also aids poor appetite. Nettle hay is particularly valuable to rabbits and cavies as food, especially for convalescent stock. It must, however, be carefully dried and free from mold. As well as being high in protein and iron, nettles are said to be useful in cases of poor elimination such as eczema, rheumatism and arthritis. Nettles have as extremely high calcium level and a good Ca:p ration. Nettles are a good source of silica which can help keep the rabbit and guinea pigs fur and bones in good condition.

Constituents: Indoles including histamine and seratonin; formic acid; acetylcholine; chlorophyll; glucoquinine; iron; silica; potassium; vitamins A (15,700 IU per 100gm dried herb) & C (83 mg/100gm dried herb).

Actions: Astringent, diuretic, tonic.

Theres more int he effect of herbs for rabbits section.
 
I went to two different produce stores and got a bundle of dill and parts of fennel. Was told that my doe might have trouble feeding her 7 kits, my dad noticed one kit kept changing nipples.
 
If I wanted to raise meat rabbits on just pellets I wouldn't start with meat rabbits that needed supplements but that's not the case. A packet of herbs, high cal foods like sunflower seeds, or powdered milk supplement on the doe's grain or pellets could save a litter that's in progress. I'm not interested in meat mutts anymore either so I am trying to establish from a small population of purebreds that all have problems and I'm also already headed back to a natural diet. I've got chinchillas and possibly soon to be cavies as well as the rabbits that can all eat the same overall diet with dandelion, nettle, rose buds, and oil seeds in their grain mix. I have decided I don't want to do any of the liquid mixing in to water bottles and such. It just makes for more cleaning and is not as cost effective as dry supplements. Except in the possible future case of adding vit c to cavy water.
 
Well akane, I think the mix I made for her helped as they are 18 days old now and all are still thriving. Even the runt has cought up with the rest of the litter and I can't tell which one he is anymore. I only gave her a tablespoon of it for about five days straight and then every other day for awhile and haven't given her anymore in awhile. I am rebreeding her and my other doe on Friday so we will see how her next litter goes. Thanks for the suggestions everyone! :D I love RT!!!!!
 
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