What do you guys think?

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HowlsOfAngels

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I don't currently have any rabbits, but I do plan on breeding meat rabbits in the future (next decade-ish, perhaps a few years sooner). I'm one of those people that likes to plan years ahead and research every animal thoroughly before considering whether or not to obtain, breed, or raise it.

So, I contacted a company that makes heavy duty cage wire and began pricing out my ideas. Thus far I've priced out brood doe cages to be about $90 dollars for the main body wire of an 8' X 2' double hole brood doe cage that would be 24" tall, if 1" X 1" GAW 12.5 gauge wire is used with the floor wire costing $25 per double hole brood doe cage with the aforementioned dimensions if 3" X 1/2" 12.5 gauge wire is used (double the floor wire $ if I want to flip them later when the floor gets hinky, though I'm still contemplating whether or not I'd like to powder coat the cages, it's hard to find estimates on that...). I'd also like to add an inch or two between each hole to slip a flake of hay into.

I'd also like to try wider cages with the same dimensions, but two double hole cages back to back to save a bit of wire, but with the same gap width wise between holes so the does would have close neighbors to the backs of their cages rather than the sides (Would four does w/ or w/o litters argue with that much, for lack of better terminology, 'rabbit estrogen' in such close quarters or would they cope?).

As for the bucks, I'd like to use 2' X 3' X 1.5' tall cages, the same wire with the same gap between the holes for a hay rack, which I'm also hoping will reduce arguments. Except, since the buck cages are shorter, I'd plan on connecting three by the floor and possibly roof wire rather than two.

I'd like to stack and hang (haven't decided if from a free standing frame, wall, ceiling, etc) all of the buck/doe cages two high with coroplast pans for the top level and a free falling system for the bottom level (I don't mind shoveling).

Now for the kits and the main reason I wanted to post. Once the kits are weaned (I'd like to breed back at two weeks and remove kits from doe at six weeks, tell me now if that's horrid). I'd like to grow them out in communal pens with 2.5 square feet per kit, give or take, for about 2 - 6 weeks depending on what they need. I've priced out the mats (3/4" thick mats) and the pens at about $160 altogether if I use the same cage wire, the dimensions would be 12' X 4' per pen and I'd plan to have four pens sharing a wall for one gender and four pens sharing a wall for the other gender. The only potential issue is the wire that I priced out may be too short at only 36" tall (I calculated the extra feet of cage wire for doe/buck cages as doors).

I know it's a bit random, but I'd like to know what you guys think. Feel free to criticize at will, I'd like to know if this is reasonable well before I attempt it.

Edit: I realize now that I missed an important snippet.

I plan on having the cages either under canopies or in an enclosed building, such as a garage, with heavy duty fans and doors/windows open during the day.

I would also like to use a 5 gallon gravity fed watering system per four holes with does/litters, per 6 holes with just bucks, and one per four grow-out pens as this would seem adequate even in hot weather as long as it was checked. And an 11 inch feeder for does with litters, at least two per grow out pen, and a 5 inch feeder for bucks all with perforated bottoms. I haven't decided whether or not I could manage even a partial fresh diet, so lets assume pellets all around (I'd like to feed organic, such as Country Side Organics but that may be inadequate. Opinions?).
 
2x3ft for a doe and kits will work, 2x4ft is even better.
Floor wire should be 1x1/2 inch. Wall wire can be 1x1 or 1x2in in 14 or even 16 gauge and save $. Floor should always be 14 or 12 to last decades.
 
I think an 8x2 foot double doe cage is fine. I am assuming you are going to be building these yourself. If so, you might want to rethink putting the hay space in between the two holes, and instead just build a hay rack on each end and attach them. I say this only because it would be a lot easier to build just the one long cage and then add a piece of dividing wire to separate the two holes.

I also think you'd be fine with two sets of cages back to back.

As to wire size, I agree with Secuono. And remember, the doe cages need to have baby saver wire up at least 4 inches on the sides.

On the grow out pens, I am not sure what "mats" you're pricing, but if you have the 1x1/2 inch floor wire, I don't see that mats are needed. You can add some resting boards, but I'm not sure even those are needed for youngsters.

As to a fresh diet, I just go outside and pick some of the weeds and greens around. I also grow some specially for the rabbits, but I have to admit...my yard has weeds. And the rabbits love them.
 
Thanks for the replies.

Thus far I've been unable to locate 1" X 1/2" 12 gauge wire, so that's why I decided on the 3" X 1/2", is it too flimsy due to the increased space between support wires even with the higher gauge?

I did see that there are thinner gauges available for 1" X 1" wire, but I'm looking for nearly everlasting cages (I know it's impossible, but I'd like to come as close as possible), hence why I'm still contemplating whether or not to powder coat as well because that extra layer would extend cage life even further.

And if hay racks on the ends of the cages will save time and money in the end I'll make note of it.

I didn't even think of baby saver wire, for some odd reason! Good thing all of my calculations left at least a few foot of 'waste' wire from the funny roll dimensions! And my understanding was that mats would help to keep the kits cleaner if I added shavings. How would you even support a cage that large? I'd imagine that there would be a lot of sagging and uncomfortable animals. And wouldn't they get pretty gross if they were just put on concrete or dirt, one of which will absorb urine the other will create really smelly mud... I think.


The mats I'm pricing are here: http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/store/r ... -ft-x-6-ft (Nearly impenetrable to a rabbit, right?)
 
For the sides and top, 1x1 wire is fine, 1x2 is also fine...and probably cheaper.

To support the bottom of the long cage, there are supports you can buy- or make. You can put up some wooden supports, or even metal if you have it to run either from end to end, or a few supports running front to back every few feet. My cages are 7 feet long, and they each have 3 supports running front to back. My cages are metal framed, but it's the same idea.

With a good floor wire and some support because of the cage length, I am not sure mats are needed. However, I have resting tiles in mine- cheap 1 ft square ceramic tiles.

Are you talking about adding shavings inside the cage or underneath it in pans? Or something else?
 
I've not given a very good description of what I'd like to do, sorry.

I'd like to put down two mats so that they cover an area of 4' X 12' then take the wire and place it on all four sides of the mats to make a pen, no bottom other than the mats, and no top (which is why I was concerned about the height, 36"). I don't want to raise it and try to put supports under it as I'm pretty sure they'd be soiled quickly and there'd be sagging due to the size; I'd just like to cover the mats with shavings and replace as needed to keep the animals clean, comfortable, and healthy.

These pens would probably be put on a dirt floor because concrete slabs are quite pricey and have a tendency of absorbing urine and ick, so I had the idea of using mats because they'd keep the rabbits from digging and/or creating muddy urine puddles.
 
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