Water setups

[R Buns]

I tried to do a search but didn't come up with answers. Probably looking in the wrong places. Hopefully it's ok to ask here.
I have seen a few watering set ups in photos where people have a bucket of water above their cages to basically be an automatic waterer for multiple rabbits. Looks like lines come off the bucket to nipples on each cage. Is there somewhere I can learn about what is best and how to set it up? Bottles are such a pain. I have been using a bottle per cage and a bowl but especially with an aggressive biting buck it's making things a challenge. Hopefully he will be headed back to the breeder soon but it's opened my eyes to reaching into the pens daily. We have a heat wave coming again so I would like to get the bucket system set up to help keep the water cooler than little bottles and make sure there's plenty available. Hopefully take less nightly work.
Appreciate the help and advice!

 

[Alaska Satin]

I tried to do a search but didn't come up with answers. Probably looking in the wrong places. Hopefully it's ok to ask here.
I have seen a few watering set ups in photos where people have a bucket of water above their cages to basically be an automatic waterer for multiple rabbits. Looks like lines come off the bucket to nipples on each cage. Is there somewhere I can learn about what is best and how to set it up? Bottles are such a pain. I have been using a bottle per cage and a bowl but especially with an aggressive biting buck it's making things a challenge. Hopefully he will be headed back to the breeder soon but it's opened my eyes to reaching into the pens daily. We have a heat wave coming again so I would like to get the bucket system set up to help keep the water cooler than little bottles and make sure there's plenty available. Hopefully take less nightly work.
Appreciate the help and advice!

I used to use a gravity-fed system during the summer for a few years and it sounded great on paper, and it worked fairly well until it didn't.

First off, the dripping was annoying, which might be solved by getting high-end components - some folks on this forum have offered suggestions. I am not a gadget person so I got tired quickly of adjusting and cleaning the nipples. What I ended up doing was putting a little cup under each nipple to catch the water, because wet spots on the floor are not only nasty but they breed flies - including rat-tailed maggots, blecchh.

Most of the rabbits preferred drinking the water that dripped into these cups, of course, and they needed to be cleaned out regularly, which in a way kind of defeats the purpose of an automatic watering system. (Maybe it's only my rabbits that like to drop pellets, hay and poo into their water bowls?) While they required reaching into the cages occasionally to clean, at least these cups can be filled from outside the cage, so one of these might be a solution for your testy buck.

Even when the nipples weren't dripping, there were always rabbits that managed to hold the nipples open and run water out that way. Some of them just grabbed the nipple between their teeth and held it there, with a streamlet of water coursing into and out of their mouths, down their fronts and onto the floor. Others found that leaning up against the nipple was a wonderful way to cool themselves during warm weather. Again, water all over the floor, but most important, the water was sometimes drained completely while they napped in the drizzle. I had a 13-gallon water reservoir (a trash can) so that was a LOT of water on the floor.

Which brings me to the most important drawback, which was that when anyplace in the system sprung a leak (think of an excited buck pulling and pulling and pulling on the nipple until he pulls it out of the tubing), the reservoir drained and ALL of the rabbits went without water for some amount of time. It's bad when a water bottle malfunctions, but then it's only one cage, and you don't have an "automatic" system lulling you into a false sense of security. This was the deal-breaker for me, because it happened once immediately after the tank had been filled, and the rabbits went without water for about 18 hours. This was in the summer and someone was taking care of the rabbits for us while we were at fish camp, so no one knew the rabbits were in distress. (Fortunately we did not lose any, but I don't know why not.)

The winter had its own issues; I did not want to spend the money running a tank heater (the other livestock just about break the bank with that) so I ended up taking the system apart each fall and putting it back each summer.

Eventually I went back to bottles in the summer because I never felt I could trust the auto system, and it required what felt like constant tinkering. I decided I'd rather just clean and fill bottles and crocks.

However, I know some people love the auto systems (maybe in climates a little more forgiving than ours?). Here is a pretty good overview from KW Cages
https://www.kwcages.com/a-guide-to-rabbit-watering-systems

and a decent step-by-step of DIY:
https://theadventurebite.com/rabbit-watering-system/
https://nomorestomachacres.com/the-most-time-efficient-rabbit-water-system/

Here's what I'd remind myself if I was going to try it again.

- Use a reservoir that is light-blocking (a white trash can is not so great in the long run, although black will of course get warmer) and black or other non-transparent tubing, to prevent algae growth if your set-up gets any sunlight. The drawback to that is that you can't see what's going on in the tank and lines. Adding apple cider vinegar helped slow algae growth but eventually it still managed to take over. Algae is a pretty powerful bio-accumulator of toxins and heavy metals. This is great while the algae is alive, but when it dies, it releases its accumulation in a lump sum, so to speak, which is not healthy. So that's something to be aware of.

- Spend the extra money on brass nipples and brass tee joints if you don't want to have to buy replacements all the time or deal with corrosion of other metals. You have to take them on and off and mess with them to deal with leaks and cleaning etc., and the plastic ones break pretty quickly and the cheap metal corrodes.

- I'd think about splitting the rabbitry into zones, each with its own system, so that if one fails, not every single rabbit goes without water.

 

[tambayo]

I want to know how much water each rabbit / each pen drinks, so no automatic systems for me.

 

[R Buns]

I used to use a gravity-fed system during the summer for a few years and it sounded great on paper, and it worked fairly well until it didn't.

First off, the dripping was annoying, which might be solved by getting high-end components - some folks on this forum have offered suggestions. I am not a gadget person so I got tired quickly of adjusting and cleaning the nipples. What I ended up doing was putting a little cup under each nipple to catch the water, because wet spots on the floor are not only nasty but they breed flies - including rat-tailed maggots, blecchh.
View attachment 42144 View attachment 42145
Most of the rabbits preferred drinking the water that dripped into these cups, of course, and they needed to be cleaned out regularly, which in a way kind of defeats the purpose of an automatic watering system. (Maybe it's only my rabbits that like to drop pellets, hay and poo into their water bowls?) While they required reaching into the cages occasionally to clean, at least these cups can be filled from outside the cage, so one of these might be a solution for your testy buck.

Even when the nipples weren't dripping, there were always rabbits that managed to hold the nipples open and run water out that way. Some of them just grabbed the nipple between their teeth and held it there, with a streamlet of water coursing into and out of their mouths, down their fronts and onto the floor. Others found that leaning up against the nipple was a wonderful way to cool themselves during warm weather. Again, water all over the floor, but most important, the water was sometimes drained completely while they napped in the drizzle. I had a 13-gallon water reservoir (a trash can) so that was a LOT of water on the floor.

Which brings me to the most important drawback, which was that when anyplace in the system sprung a leak (think of an excited buck pulling and pulling and pulling on the nipple until he pulls it out of the tubing), the reservoir drained and ALL of the rabbits went without water for some amount of time. It's bad when a water bottle malfunctions, but then it's only one cage, and you don't have an "automatic" system lulling you into a false sense of security. This was the deal-breaker for me, because it happened once immediately after the tank had been filled, and the rabbits went without water for about 18 hours. This was in the summer and someone was taking care of the rabbits for us while we were at fish camp, so no one knew the rabbits were in distress. (Fortunately we did not lose any, but I don't know why not.)

The winter had its own issues; I did not want to spend the money running a tank heater (the other livestock just about break the bank with that) so I ended up taking the system apart each fall and putting it back each summer.

Eventually I went back to bottles in the summer because I never felt I could trust the auto system, and it required what felt like constant tinkering. I decided I'd rather just clean and fill bottles and crocks.

However, I know some people love the auto systems (maybe in climates a little more forgiving than ours?). Here is a pretty good overview from KW Cages
https://www.kwcages.com/a-guide-to-rabbit-watering-systems

and a decent step-by-step of DIY:
https://theadventurebite.com/rabbit-watering-system/
https://nomorestomachacres.com/the-most-time-efficient-rabbit-water-system/

Here's what I'd remind myself if I was going to try it again.

- Use a reservoir that is light-blocking (a white trash can is not so great in the long run, although black will of course get warmer) and black or other non-transparent tubing, to prevent algae growth if your set-up gets any sunlight. The drawback to that is that you can't see what's going on in the tank and lines. Adding apple cider vinegar helped slow algae growth but eventually it still managed to take over. Algae is a pretty powerful bio-accumulator of toxins and heavy metals. This is great while the algae is alive, but when it dies, it releases its accumulation in a lump sum, so to speak, which is not healthy. So that's something to be aware of.

- Spend the extra money on brass nipples and brass tee joints if you don't want to have to buy replacements all the time or deal with corrosion of other metals. You have to take them on and off and mess with them to deal with leaks and cleaning etc., and the plastic ones break pretty quickly and the cheap metal corrodes.

- I'd think about splitting the rabbitry into zones, each with its own system, so that if one fails, not every single rabbit goes without water.

You couldn't have covered it better. You nailed all my concerns and more. Thank you so much for taking the time to write all that information. I will be staying with my current set up. Thank you again for being so in depth in your response.

 

[R Buns]

I want to know how much water each rabbit / each pen drinks, so no automatic systems for me.

That was one of my concerns. Other than the large livestock I keep track of everyones feed and water consumption. Good indicator of a problem when there is a change.

 

[Florida Jeff]

I use the auto water system and love it. I split it up one for two breeder doe cages and a larger one for the other 8 cages. I used black tubing that eliminated all alga except in the drip leg at the end that I flush often to clean and get cool water to the cages. I used a 5 gal insulated water jug on the small side. I used a 7 gal square cooler for the other side. I load with cool water from jugs in refrigerator. With lots of kits and 4 adults I add about 2-3 gal. a day. the two does use about 1/2 - 1 gal a day. They drink some and waste some.
I put two nipples High and Low in the Moms cage with kits. I have moved the low nipples up when the kits are weaned and move to Day Camp. Mom would sometime lean on the nipples and drain the cooler. I don't leave for two or three days until the kits are on there own or go to Freezer Camp. I check the water every day during that time. I don't move the kits until they are drinking from the nipples. If they don't watch mom an learn to drink from the nipple they won't learn on there own and you are back to the dishes (poop pee and food problem) If you put them on bottles they will never go back to the nipples and will die before they use them.
I used the black 5/16 tubing and nipples, plastic tees and brass 5/16 valves I got at amazon. I had crappy nipples that did leak a bit , but got good ones that have worked well for 2 yrs now. I check the nipples every day at feeding time making sure they are working.
I now Alaska Satin has had a hard time with the auto system and that is a real bummer. I feel for him. It took me a while to work mine out but I hate cleaning water bottles and filling multiple times a day in the summer. If you use coolers they keep the water cold and you can even put blocks of Ice in in the summer. No sun gets in the cooler and no algae problem. If you want I can send you links to parts if you want.
Every man has to choose his own poison.
Hey Good Luck to you and to Alaska Satin.

 

[R Buns]

I use the auto water system and love it. I split it up one for two breeder doe cages and a larger one for the other 8 cages. I used black tubing that eliminated all alga except in the drip leg at the end that I flush often to clean and get cool water to the cages. I used a 5 gal insulated water jug on the small side. I used a 7 gal square cooler for the other side. I load with cool water from jugs in refrigerator. With lots of kits and 4 adults I add about 2-3 gal. a day. the two does use about 1/2 - 1 gal a day. They drink some and waste some.
I put two nipples High and Low in the Moms cage with kits. I have moved the low nipples up when the kits are weaned and move to Day Camp. Mom would sometime lean on the nipples and drain the cooler. I don't leave for two or three days until the kits are on there own or go to Freezer Camp. I check the water every day during that time. I don't move the kits until they are drinking from the nipples. If they don't watch mom an learn to drink from the nipple they won't learn on there own and you are back to the dishes (poop pee and food problem) If you put them on bottles they will never go back to the nipples and will die before they use them.
I used the black 5/16 tubing and nipples, plastic tees and brass 5/16 valves I got at amazon. I had crappy nipples that did leak a bit , but got good ones that have worked well for 2 yrs now. I check the nipples every day at feeding time making sure they are working.
I now Alaska Satin has had a hard time with the auto system and that is a real bummer. I feel for him. It took me a while to work mine out but I hate cleaning water bottles and filling multiple times a day in the summer. If you use coolers they keep the water cold and you can even put blocks of Ice in in the summer. No sun gets in the cooler and no algae problem. If you want I can send you links to parts if you want.
Every man has to choose his own poison.
Hey Good Luck to you and to Alaska Satin.

Thank you. That's helpful. Actually makes sense on the nipples vs bottles etc. Sounds like you have a great setup. Keeping the water cooler is one of the challenges I am trying to work out with less effort. Thanks!

 

[AristocratsWI]

Most auto-watering systems don't work because they are not pressurized, so they don't work with most valves.
The Nivek valves are not made threaded, and they are also a brass that the rabbits will destroy in a year or two.
After 100 rabbits, none of my Polish rabbits will use any lick valves. I have no understanding why lick valves are even sold for rabbits. Rabbits need bite valves.
I needed a watering system that would work all year round including in the winter. I invented a solution for it and it has been battle tested through three years of Wisconsin weather.
My system consists of 1000mL bottles that I manufacturer, valves that I manufacture, and a bottle heating system that I manufacture. Yes I do sell them. I designed and build these things because there was nothing on the market that was satisfactory. People who buy rabbits from me always get at least one bottle. Obviously house rabbits don't need a bottle heater.

My methodology for the bottles involves me doing a single big clean of the bottles annually. The key is to not put water in the bottles that has bacteria in it. I use water that is purified. Not distilled which would remove the minerals. It is not tap water that contains bleach or fluoride. No I don't boil it before putting it in the bottles either. I use a special filtering system that is very economical. I think that is the key to using bottles.

 

[PTJeff]

I'd be interested in seeing your winter proof watering bottles
Living in Northern Ohio, I get pretty tired of the constant chore, mostly it bothers me that my rabbits don't have access to water all the time

 

[Robochelle]

That was one of my concerns. Other than the large livestock I keep track of everyones feed and water consumption. Good indicator of a problem when there is a change.

Although you wouldn't see the water consumption, you could with the right setup still see the urine output; not as accurate, but better than nothing...

 

[Preitler]

I want to know how much water each rabbit / each pen drinks, so no automatic systems for me.

Late to the question, but there isn't an easy answer. My two house rabbits, or one of them, drink more than the 7 in the hutches combined. No idea why. I chalk it off as an individual trait.

About setup, I use crocks, with an electric heatig mat underneith for winter.

 

[kusanar314]

Late to the question, but there isn't an easy answer. My two house rabbits, or one of them, drink more than the 7 in the hutches combined. No idea why. I chalk it off as an individual trait.

I could be totally off, but I had a horse that started doing that and he was trying to founder himself on hay (only horse I've ever seen that had to be muzzled in the winter to keep him from over eating). He was mostly trying to founder due to basically diabities, horses will get insulin resistant and then founder. I wonder if your rabbit has any sort of thyroid or insulin issues which would cause that.

As long as there are no other symptoms, I wouldn't worry too much other than to reduce sugar intake, but rabbits aren't supposed to get much sugar anyway so you likely already do that.

 

[Skai]

I tried to do a search but didn't come up with answers. Probably looking in the wrong places. Hopefully it's ok to ask here.
I have seen a few watering set ups in photos where people have a bucket of water above their cages to basically be an automatic waterer for multiple rabbits. Looks like lines come off the bucket to nipples on each cage. Is there somewhere I can learn about what is best and how to set it up? Bottles are such a pain. I have been using a bottle per cage and a bowl but especially with an aggressive biting buck it's making things a challenge. Hopefully he will be headed back to the breeder soon but it's opened my eyes to reaching into the pens daily. We have a heat wave coming again so I would like to get the bucket system set up to help keep the water cooler than little bottles and make sure there's plenty available. Hopefully take less nightly work.
Appreciate the help and advice!

A gravity fed system is great but I worry they won't work 100% of the time. Some of my buns drink out of bottles and some out of cups. The evil ones get bottles. I don't like getting bit and don't want to wear gauntlets to clean or fill a water cup. I prefer the cups because they are easier to clean and I don't have to check every day to make sure they aren't clogged. In the winter everybody gets cups (I have my eye on a couple of replacements for the evil ones before I have to switch them to cups this Winter). Depending on the number of rabbits I'm over-wintering, I keep a five gallon bucket or two in the rabbit shed with immersion heaters in the bottom. It keeps the water warm even when it's in the teens outside. I change out each cup and fill a fresh cup with warm water in the cage. Of course this wouldn't work if I wasn't home all the time but I don't travel anymore and the longest I'm away is a trip to Tractor Supply, Home Depot or the grocery store.

 

[rabbit lover]

Most auto-watering systems don't work because they are not pressurized, so they don't work with most valves.
The Nivek valves are not made threaded, and they are also a brass that the rabbits will destroy in a year or two.
After 100 rabbits, none of my Polish rabbits will use any lick valves. I have no understanding why lick valves are even sold for rabbits. Rabbits need bite valves.
I needed a watering system that would work all year round including in the winter. I invented a solution for it and it has been battle tested through three years of Wisconsin weather.
My system consists of 1000mL bottles that I manufacturer, valves that I manufacture, and a bottle heating system that I manufacture. Yes I do sell them. I designed and build these things because there was nothing on the market that was satisfactory. People who buy rabbits from me always get at least one bottle. Obviously house rabbits don't need a bottle heater.

My methodology for the bottles involves me doing a single big clean of the bottles annually. The key is to not put water in the bottles that has bacteria in it. I use water that is purified. Not distilled which would remove the minerals. It is not tap water that contains bleach or fluoride. No I don't boil it before putting it in the bottles either. I use a special filtering system that is very economical. I think that is the key to using bottles.

my two rabbits use lick bottles

 

[Robochelle]

I have seen a few watering set ups in photos where people have a bucket of water above their cages to basically be an automatic waterer for multiple rabbits. Looks like lines come off the bucket to nipples on each cage. Is there somewhere I can learn about what is best and how to set it up?

I can't say what is the best, but here's review of what I've used: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B018T9QZ70?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share. Brass Rabbit nipples, with t connectors, designed for use with surgical tubing.
Great for heated winter housing, and for summer use.
Downsides are:
-Intended to fit together with clear surgical tubing, which allows sunlight in and creates algae filled tubes.
-The t-connectors are made of a plastic that gets brittle with age, probably accelerated by heat and sunlight. Second year involved lots of replacing t connectors while the system was filled (wet and dirty work)
-Less than reasonable sideways extensions are possible but problematic: I used tubes to extend system sideways not-quite 12 feet (very shallow angle, maybe between 1-3 degree downward, run across front of cage).
-my contingency plan came with drawbacks: At each t connector, I put an 8-12 inch downward tubes with the nipple at the end of it; mounting nipple into the cage wall, creating a D shape outward (wastes space, and I've hooked things in the D shape with wet results). Downward tubes were needed as a reservoir though, especially when t-connectors started cracking.
-Over time surgical tubing stretched, leading to my shallow sideways channels drooping; they had to be cleared of air bubbles regularly to keep the siphon working. Only a problem because of the leaking cracked connectors introducing air into the system.

*leaks have happened from:
(1) the t connectors cracking
(2)from detritus stuck in the nipple. Leaking stops once cleaned, but detritus is unavoidable because of the algae
(3)most frustratingly some bunnies discover that they can make water stream out, by biting on the valve and holding it open. my meat line loved their pool parties (reference to a previous post), apparently when the human takes away the pool (AKA water bowl) some buns choose to hit the showers. Rant incoming: Don't bath rabbits, they say, they could die of shock if soaked in water, they say, and yet my rabbits won't stop doing it to themselves!

15 Pack Chicken Water Drinking... https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07V7JGZ8B?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I never got it to work properly; it always leaked out the reservoir, never filled the cups. Anyone with success using these, please provide detailed instructions

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000TZ7496?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Not a multi-cage watering system, but a heated cage-mounted waterer that is filled from outside the cage by pouring water in the top; no fuss, just a repurposed garden spout and a daily cage tour. I include it as the winter counterpart for the brass nipple system; a great system for buns who are used to the surgical tubing nipples linked previously. For unheated housing these worked through most of my Canadian prairie winter, so probably perfect for everyone south who still gets a frozen winter. They did freeze up at -30 Celsius (-22 Farenheit), but melted again in the -25C (-13F) range without even having to bring it inside.

Had a couple of incidents with leaks but these are due to sourcing my water from barrels, and detritus getting stuck in the nipple. Dumped out the bad water, added clear water, and blew into the nipple to clear it: fixed the problem. All 6 lasted the winter, I will have to get back to you on the effectiveness in this upcoming winter; Almost all summer it has been +30C (86F) or warmer, and I've noticed the heat packs are subtly curling away from the bottle due to softened glue; it might affect their effectiveness next winter.

 

[Bunnies4me]

I purchased float valves and decided against setting up a system that was that complicated - someone else on here did a similar idea for feed, and gave me the inspiration.
Instead of valves, I cut a hole in the front of their cages and built a wooden holder for each cage and rabbit, made to fit some rectangle plastic containers that I bought from the $2 shop - they are dishwasher safe and frequently get changed around. Despite the wooden part inside the cage having a metal front, the containers do get chewed, but I can buy more, they are a common size and shape and there will always be someone that supplies them - online if not physically. They are gravity fed (if you are on contoured ground, make the hole in the wooden top shaped so you can tilt the bottle) and the water bottle goes "glug" to top up the trough. Given that you will know the size of the bottles, you will easily be able to monitor how much each rabbit is drinking. Accessible to change and give clean water from outside if the rabbit is grumpy or bites, and they are fast as I don't have to open the door!
In wintertime just keep the bottles inside and fill the trough with hot water first - but we don't freeze here, so not sure if it would be suitable in cold conditions - I'd be concerned about the bottles breaking if it freezes outside.

 

[R Buns]

I can't say what is the best, but here's review of what I've used: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B018T9QZ70?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share. Brass Rabbit nipples, with t connectors, designed for use with surgical tubing.
Great for heated winter housing, and for summer use.
Downsides are:
-Intended to fit together with clear surgical tubing, which allows sunlight in and creates algae filled tubes.
-The t-connectors are made of a plastic that gets brittle with age, probably accelerated by heat and sunlight. Second year involved lots of replacing t connectors while the system was filled (wet and dirty work)
-Less than reasonable sideways extensions are possible but problematic: I used tubes to extend system sideways not-quite 12 feet (very shallow angle, maybe between 1-3 degree downward, run across front of cage).
-my contingency plan came with drawbacks: At each t connector, I put an 8-12 inch downward tubes with the nipple at the end of it; mounting nipple into the cage wall, creating a D shape outward (wastes space, and I've hooked things in the D shape with wet results). Downward tubes were needed as a reservoir though, especially when t-connectors started cracking.
-Over time surgical tubing stretched, leading to my shallow sideways channels drooping; they had to be cleared of air bubbles regularly to keep the siphon working. Only a problem because of the leaking cracked connectors introducing air into the system.

*leaks have happened from:
(1) the t connectors cracking
(2)from detritus stuck in the nipple. Leaking stops once cleaned, but detritus is unavoidable because of the algae
(3)most frustratingly some bunnies discover that they can make water stream out, by biting on the valve and holding it open. my meat line loved their pool parties (reference to a previous post), apparently when the human takes away the pool (AKA water bowl) some buns choose to hit the showers. Rant incoming: Don't bath rabbits, they say, they could die of shock if soaked in water, they say, and yet my rabbits won't stop doing it to themselves!

15 Pack Chicken Water Drinking... https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07V7JGZ8B?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I never got it to work properly; it always leaked out the reservoir, never filled the cups. Anyone with success using these, please provide detailed instructions

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000TZ7496?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Not a multi-cage watering system, but a heated cage-mounted waterer that is filled from outside the cage by pouring water in the top; no fuss, just a repurposed garden spout and a daily cage tour. I include it as the winter counterpart for the brass nipple system; a great system for buns who are used to the surgical tubing nipples linked previously. For unheated housing these worked through most of my Canadian prairie winter, so probably perfect for everyone south who still gets a frozen winter. They did freeze up at -30 Celsius (-22 Farenheit), but melted again in the -25C (-13F) range without even having to bring it inside.

Had a couple of incidents with leaks but these are due to sourcing my water from barrels, and detritus getting stuck in the nipple. Dumped out the bad water, added clear water, and blew into the nipple to clear it: fixed the problem. All 6 lasted the winter, I will have to get back to you on the effectiveness in this upcoming winter; Almost all summer it has been +30C (86F) or warmer, and I've noticed the heat packs are subtly curling away from the bottle due to softened glue; it might affect their effectiveness next winter.

Very helpful! Thank you and thanks for the links!

 

[R Buns]

I purchased float valves and decided against setting up a system that was that complicated - someone else on here did a similar idea for feed, and gave me the inspiration.
Instead of valves, I cut a hole in the front of their cages and built a wooden holder for each cage and rabbit, made to fit some rectangle plastic containers that I bought from the $2 shop - they are dishwasher safe and frequently get changed around. Despite the wooden part inside the cage having a metal front, the containers do get chewed, but I can buy more, they are a common size and shape and there will always be someone that supplies them - online if not physically. They are gravity fed (if you are on contoured ground, make the hole in the wooden top shaped so you can tilt the bottle) and the water bottle goes "glug" to top up the trough. Given that you will know the size of the bottles, you will easily be able to monitor how much each rabbit is drinking. Accessible to change and give clean water from outside if the rabbit is grumpy or bites, and they are fast as I don't have to open the door!
In wintertime just keep the bottles inside and fill the trough with hot water first - but we don't freeze here, so not sure if it would be suitable in cold conditions - I'd be concerned about the bottles breaking if it freezes outside.

That is genius and very helpful. This is something I really am going to look into. Thanks!!

 

[dlynn]

I purchased float valves and decided against setting up a system that was that complicated - someone else on here did a similar idea for feed, and gave me the inspiration.
Instead of valves, I cut a hole in the front of their cages and built a wooden holder for each cage and rabbit, made to fit some rectangle plastic containers that I bought from the $2 shop - they are dishwasher safe and frequently get changed around. Despite the wooden part inside the cage having a metal front, the containers do get chewed, but I can buy more, they are a common size and shape and there will always be someone that supplies them - online if not physically. They are gravity fed (if you are on contoured ground, make the hole in the wooden top shaped so you can tilt the bottle) and the water bottle goes "glug" to top up the trough. Given that you will know the size of the bottles, you will easily be able to monitor how much each rabbit is drinking. Accessible to change and give clean water from outside if the rabbit is grumpy or bites, and they are fast as I don't have to open the door!
In wintertime just keep thenice bottles inside and fill the trough with hot water first - but we don't freeze here, so not sure if it would be suitable in cold conditions - I'd be concerned about the bottles breaking if it freezes outside.

Nice! In my group housing I did something similar with old baking pans and wide mouth gallon jugs upended in them. Drill some holes near top to just below desired water level. For winter I added a heater sold for chicken waterers to keep pan from freezing and swapped out the bottle as needed. Warm water in winter, ice water on really hot days. A bungy cord keeps the jug from being tipped. Now I've changed to the double wall metal chicken waterers with the heaters put under for winter. Think the double wall helps insulate they don't get brittle or chewed. Didn't freeze in our -20* f .I put a scrap of 2x12 and a piece of tile under to raise them slightly. I also tried the bottles sold with drippers or needle valves, the cups...all leaked and were more work and useless for groups of rabbits.

 

[jani]

You couldn't have covered it better. You nailed all my concerns and more. Thank you so much for taking the time to write all that information. I will be staying with my current set up. Thank you again for being so in depth in your response.

just a thought... i always use lixit 2l bottles in summer and rubber bowls in winter here, but last year for my hutch rabbits at home (as opposed to cage bank rabbits on the farm in a barn) I got winter heated water bottles. They are flip top and dead easy to fill. I just walk down the row with a 4L bottle of water flip and fill down the line in a few minutes. No hands in the cage winter or summer- I also have exterior mounted j feeders and hay feeders. Well, actualy I make a point of handling each of my rabbits EVERY day, but when i want to feed and water and get out the door to work in the morning all chicken rabbit and quail chores can't take longer then 15 minutes. So i cuddle everyone after work. Point is, the flip top heated bottles save me a lot of time, i think farmer innovations made them? I got them on amazon, a little pricey but made not in china and certainly keep my rabbits in liquid drinking water even during quebec february. So I am most pleased