Using a Rabbit Wringer, Hopper Popper, etc

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It took me over 4 months to get mine. It was supposed to be four weeks when I ordered it. I heard all the same old BS but I stayed on his behind or I probably would still be waiting. It is great equipment but I would not deal with him again. I just don't like being lied to. Any metal shop should be able to make one.
 
It took me and my friend several months to get our processing stations, then we decided to get wringers too and those came quick. Apparently the process is more automated now. Going to try it out for the first time in a little bit.
 
I really want to try rabbit and I really want to be able to butcher them myself but I am just so scared! I'm not really that queasy or anything I just don't want to hurt them? What if I mess up! Or what if I mess up while I'm skinning, etc and the meat goes bad! It would be such a waste plus I would feel bad!! :(
 
The biggest things you can do to ruin the meat is to puncture either the bladder or the gall bladder. Other than that, butchering a rabbit is quite easy. The killing, not so much, but like dood said, practice makes perfect! Just remember that it may take more force than your expecting, certainly if your dealing with older animals.

Is there anyone in your area that you can watch and help process? I learned to process animals by first helping my hubby's family butcher wild game, and then helping a friend with her chickens. After that it wen to the actual field dressing of wild game, and I just adapted what I knew from that to the rabbits. Once you get the hang of it, they're much quicker and cleaner than chickens!
 
PSFAngoras":u7fedn81 said:
The biggest things you can do to ruin the meat is to puncture either the bladder or the gall bladder. Other than that, butchering a rabbit is quite easy. The killing, not so much, but like dood said, practice makes perfect! Just remember that it may take more force than your expecting, certainly if your dealing with older animals.

Is there anyone in your area that you can watch and help process? I learned to process animals by first helping my hubby's family butcher wild game, and then helping a friend with her chickens. After that it wen to the actual field dressing of wild game, and I just adapted what I knew from that to the rabbits. Once you get the hang of it, they're much quicker and cleaner than chickens!

Urine won't ruin the meat, just rinse it well as soon as possible. I always remove the liver from the body before trying to remove the gall bladder. Even then, if it spills a bit, I just wash it off....it's just bile.
 
Planet Jr":2fh778lr said:
It took me over 4 months to get mine. It was supposed to be four weeks when I ordered it. I heard all the same old BS but I stayed on his behind or I probably would still be waiting. It is great equipment but I would not deal with him again. I just don't like being lied to. Any metal shop should be able to make one.

So true: I ordered mine in late July, 2013, and he told me it'd be available in September. In October I canceled my order, but never got the money back - and in December, finally got the stuff! They work well, and it's a great idea, but yes, the delay, the simplicity of this or the wooden design, the COST, and the lack of getting my money back when I canceled (although I never followed up and called him - busy fall!) - I would not recommend it.

While I was waiting, I took moving straps, tied them to joists, and made little loops. I stuck the rabbit's heads in there, and then did the same pull/cervical dislocation. The only problem was that I'd end up with a rabbit head stuck by its fur in the now-tight knot while I hung the body by its hocks. Once when I went back to get the head, it was gone - either my dog or one of my cats got it. I *really* don't want to freak out my neighbors, so now I keep a very close eye on where everything goes...
 
For those of you who have used multiple methods (pellet gun, bop on the head, etc.), do you find that they flop around less with the wringer? Anybody ever experience a scream? I'm going to be teaching a class this summer, but I want a good, quiet, non-traumatizing kill, if possible.

I know, I know.....nothing likes to die. ;)
 
I use the broomstick and I find if I squeeze lightly down sides along the spine I don't get the thrashing that can happen. Not sure why it works but it does for me.
 
Mike Hotel":r05upb8r said:
For those of you who have used multiple methods (pellet gun, bop on the head, etc.), do you find that they flop around less with the wringer? Anybody ever experience a scream? I'm going to be teaching a class this summer, but I want a good, quiet, non-traumatizing kill, if possible.

I know, I know.....nothing likes to die. ;)

Never had a scream when using the pellet gun (which I use for mature animals)...I use my not-name-brand wringer for smaller rabbits, and I had exactly ONE scream but that was because I flinched and didn't use it properly. Only botched dispatch I've ever had thank gods...used right, there should be no screaming with the wringer. They go so quick I doubt they realize they just died. :) I do get a LOT of spasms with the pellet gun, sometimes a few spasms with the wringer but often not much. So long as the animal is dead I don't worry a lot about the spasms or thrashing...heck I kill poultry via decapitating and I had one MASSIVE mature duck beat me black and blue with his wings for almost a FULL MINUTE after he lost his head, so a few kicks from a dead rabbit isn't so bad. They can't feel it as they are dead. :)
 
I made a wooden one like in the video but mounted it upright beside the table I dress game on, that way I can slide the head in and use the weight of the rabbit to take it down with just a little pull. I think if I just put it head in and let the rabbit go it would work just as good and the weight of the rabbit would do itself in especially if you gave it a shove. Haven't tried that but am thinking about it.
 
ColdBrook":aoitgzo4 said:
Thanks for sharing. So far, a pellet gun is working out well for us but I'd definitely consider that method. It looks fairly foolproof, quick and humane.

I have only used a pellet gun in the years of my breeding. I can't see any of the other options being anything near humane. A pellet to the brain between the ears kills instantly. No suffering. They drop stiff to the ground. I've never missed although they can move their heads suddenly if they feel the gun barrel so don't get too close before pulling the trigger. The spasms are a nervous reaction. They are dead.
 
B George":1v8ry6ty said:
ColdBrook":1v8ry6ty said:
Thanks for sharing. So far, a pellet gun is working out well for us but I'd definitely consider that method. It looks fairly foolproof, quick and humane.

I have only used a pellet gun in the years of my breeding. I can't see any of the other options being anything near humane. A pellet to the brain between the ears kills instantly. No suffering. They drop stiff to the ground. I've never missed although they can move their heads suddenly if they feel the gun barrel so don't get too close before pulling the trigger. The spasms are a nervous reaction. They are dead.

Yep, we use a pellet rifle for older rabbits and it does work well and instantaneously. The only issue, as B George said, is if they move their head. I usually put a pile of Calf Manna on the ground in front of them to keep their attention.
 
I recently had to dispatch an ill rabbit and used a pellet gun. I pressed the barrel to the spine at the base of the head aiming toward the mouth. Death was instantaneous, with no extended kicking or flailing about as we had seen when firing into the brain.

My usual method is to bonk them on the forehead and then quickly slit the throat since we feed the heads to our dogs. This particular rabbit had a snotty nose so the head was discarded.
 
MamaSheepdog":2son8ahd said:
I recently had to dispatch an ill rabbit and used a pellet gun. I pressed the barrel to the spine at the base of the head aiming toward the mouth. Death was instantaneous, with no extended kicking or flailing about as we had seen when firing into the brain.

My usual method is to bonk them on the forehead and then quickly slit the throat since we feed the heads to our dogs. This particular rabbit had a snotty nose so the head was discarded.

Yup that is how we do it too!
 
OMG! that looked so easy! Wow, what a quality product. and a quick end for the bunny with no suffering.
 
There is a new, less expensive cervical dislocator called a Hopper Popper. The less expensive one costs around $40 and the stainless steel one cost $50.... and it comes with a skinning/butchering station. I purchased one and they are well constructed, and it shipped right away. The Rabbit Wringer tends to have a backlog, last time I checked.

http://theurbanrabbitproject.com/shop/

P.S. 10/4/14 - I have no financial interest in this device. I thought we were talking about dispatching rabbits via a cervical dislocation method like the rabbit wringer since, in this thread, I've seen talk of the broomstick method, homemade welded and wooden wringers, etc. I thought that was the topic, and not an ad for a name brand product. I was just trying to share information like others have shared with me over the years... something I have always appreciated about rabbit owners. I apologize if I broke a rule of offended anyone. :|
 
OneAcreFarm":yxzw0ny1 said:
Ralph":yxzw0ny1 said:
I use a homemade wringer also. Found if you slide the rabbit in backwards then turn them to the side you have less problem with getting the frount feet in the way.

Yep, it does work much better that way and I have since started doing it just that way... :)
can you show a video do that .. I am more of pic person .. I just bought mine.. soon will be in...
 
That's how I do it in my videos on RabbitWringer.com. @Trufflelady..this is a thread about use of a Rabbit Wringer. Not a Pooper! Also, their hanger doesn't work like the Rabbit Wringer's "Butcher Station". With the RW Butcher Station the hocks slip into the inverted wedges and hold the rabbit securely using proper angles. The other's hanger doesn't hold the legs unless you bend the foot behind the rod. I've seen it and it's very cumbersome. Also, their version of the Wringer is smaller and doesn't allow room for the rabbits nose as its too close to the mounting surface. They use 1-1/2" where as our original version used 2". Our new Wringer is more like 4" away where you turn the rabbit facing the wall and our latest version (we are shipping them now, but the pictures are not on our website yet) has the mounting flange like the original Wringer.

-Sal Pizzurro
Designer, inventor
RabbitWringer.com
Pizzcorp.com
 
Sal? I thought we were talking about dispatching rabbits via a cervical dislocation method like the rabbit wringer since, in this thread, I've seen talk of the broomstick method, homemade welded and wooden wringers, etc. I was just trying to share information like others have shared with me over the years... something I have always appreciated about rabbit owners. I apologize if I broke a rule or offended anyone.
 

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