Side Entry Nest Box

[Rabbits by Accident]

Years ago, I built a rabbit hutch that had the nest boxes on the exterior, as they do for chickens. I cannot find ANY info/plans on this anywhere.

I would like to do this again if I build a new hutch. However, my present nursery cages are humongous dog crates with 2 floors & lots of space.

This year, I lost 4 kits from 2 different does when they fell out of the nest box too young. (commercial nest boxes with no previous problems..?)

So - I was thinking - what if I made side entry nest boxes that were located INSIDE the cage, because I'm not cutting the dog crates. This would serve 2 purposes, 1) the kits would be able to find their way back 2) it would keep the poop from the 2nd floor from falling into the nest box

Anyone have/seen/make side-entry nest boxes? Why is this a bad idea? LOL

If anyone has info or experience with either interior or exterior side entry nest boxes for 12-14 lb rabbits, I'd greatly appreciate it.

Liz

 

[RABBITGIRLFORTHEWIN]

Years ago, I built a rabbit hutch that had the nest boxes on the exterior, as they do for chickens. I cannot find ANY info/plans on this anywhere.

I would like to do this again if I build a new hutch. However, my present nursery cages are humongous dog crates with 2 floors & lots of space.

This year, I lost 4 kits from 2 different does when they fell out of the nest box too young. (commercial nest boxes with no previous problems..?)

So - I was thinking - what if I made side entry nest boxes that were located INSIDE the cage, because I'm not cutting the dog crates. This would serve 2 purposes, 1) the kits would be able to find their way back 2) it would keep the poop from the 2nd floor from falling into the nest box

Anyone have/seen/make side-entry nest boxes? Why is this a bad idea? LOL

If anyone has info or experience with either interior or exterior side entry nest boxes for 12-14 lb rabbits, I'd greatly appreciate it.

Liz

I just use metal or wooden nest boxes. I just put the nest box in throw some hay in and babies. LOL, Mom does the hard stuff. Think if you had to pull out your hair for your babies plus have 5-15 (5 is the lowest my rabbits have had and 15 is the highest. They are Silver Foxs) I think I've only lost two from Kits sucking on Mom when she jumps out. Overall, they work out great! I haven't tried any other methods. Nest boxes are expensive! I need new nest boxes but they are so expensive.

 

[Preitler]

This is one of my nestboxes, top removed, the others are just rectangular with a side entrance.

I made the floor so that it is about 2" deeper at the rear where the nest is, and the hole is above floor level inside. I put a ramp or hay outside so that is easy for the kits to go back in.

I'm pretty happy with this design, in winter I put a electric heating element under one back corner.

 

[MsTemeraire]

So - I was thinking - what if I made side entry nest boxes that were located INSIDE the cage, because I'm not cutting the dog crates. This would serve 2 purposes, 1) the kits would be able to find their way back 2) it would keep the poop from the 2nd floor from falling into the nest box

My nest boxes are made to resemble a wild rabbit's burrow, fully enclosed with one opening at the side. The does love them and also stuff the entrance with hay - which is a wild rabbit behaviour not normally seen.

 

[MsTemeraire]

This is one of my nestboxes, top removed, the others are just rectangular with a side entrance.

These are similar to mine, but I don't make the floor deeper, and mine are fully rectangular.

 

[tambayo]

My nest boxes are made to resemble a wild rabbit's burrow, fully enclosed with one opening at the side. The does love them and also stuff the entrance with hay - which is a wild rabbit behaviour not normally seen.

Mine will make a hill out of the nestbox with the bedding of the hutch if i check while leaving the box in. I don't like that because it gives still blind 7-8 day old kits a way out but not back in. Lost 1 that way so front gets checked for no "ramp" out of the box filling. Last set of litters where fine, so i'll see if it was me, or youngish does that caused it.

 

[MsTemeraire]

Mine will make a hill out of the nestbox with the bedding of the hutch if i check while leaving the box in. I don't like that because it gives still blind 7-8 day old kits a way out but not back in. Lost 1 that way so front gets checked for no "ramp" out of the box filling. Last set of litters where fine, so i'll see if it was me, or youngish does that caused it.

If the side entrance is at floor level, the baby will get pushed back in when the doe stuffs the entrance. I agree that if it gets missed it may perish, but I have had fewer losses of that kind since using them.

 

[dlynn]

My nest boxes are made to resemble a wild rabbit's burrow, fully enclosed with one opening at the side. The does love them and also stuff the entrance with hay - which is a wild rabbit behaviour not normally seen.

I've noticed mine will cover the entrance when it is cold. I use permanent den boxes in group housing. They do seem to like the doors off center better. In one family unit the only off center one is a "tree house" we built hoping the buck would use it. It's a favorite hang out spot for many, but not the buck. 12" up ( their entrance door to yard is below) one doe insists on nesting there. First litter kept wriggling out and had to be picked up. The next 2 litters she learned to plug entrance to keep them in. Extra work with it elevated. 6 ground level den boxes to choose from she keeps choosing the tree house?

 

[Rabbits by Accident]

This is one of my nestboxes, top removed, the others are just rectangular with a side entrance.

I made the floor so that it is about 2" deeper at the rear where the nest is, and the hole is above floor level inside. I put a ramp or hay outside so that is easy for the kits to go back in.

I'm pretty happy with this design, in winter I put a electric heating element under one back corner.

That is SUPER! Thank you for posting photos! Are yours covered? I need them to have a lid, so will add one. I know my does will love it! I think it will also help keep mosquitos out in the warmer months.

(The lid is needed because of the 2nd floor which drops poop down on everything below LOL)

Next question - how large would they need to be for this size rabbit?
(she wasn't quite grown in this pic, but just about) The board is 1" grid so she is about 20" long in this position.



I'm thinking I need a pretty big box. ... ? but really no idea how much room she would need with it covered on all 4 sides.

Thanks for any help!
Liz

 

[Rabbits by Accident]

SIZE? I didn't measure my existing boxes, but standard seems to be 20"x11"x10" which works fine for them. Does are about 20"+ long (pic in above post)

However, since they will be completely covered, I think it would have to be quite a bit larger ....

Plus, do they sit up while giving birth? Full cover might need to be higher?

Thanks for all suggestions/help

 

[dlynn]

That is SUPER! Thank you for posting photos! Are yours covered? I need them to have a lid, so will add one. I know my does will love it! I think it will also help keep mosquitos out in the warmer months.

(The lid is needed because of the 2nd floor which drops poop down on everything below LOL)

Next question - how large would they need to be for this size rabbit?
(she wasn't quite grown in this pic, but just about) The board is 1" grid so she is about 20" long in this position.

View attachment 40411

I'm thinking I need a pretty big box. ... ? but really no idea how much room she would need with it covered on all 4 sides.

Thanks for any help!
Liz

My silver fox are 10-12# my permanent den boxes with front entrance are minimum 12x20" minimum 12" high. Side entrance I did 24x14" they seem to like snug. All have covers. Keeps them warmer and is an extra place they sit. My does have raised litters of 12 in this size.

 

[MsTemeraire]

My silver fox are 10-12# my permanent den boxes with front entrance are minimum 12x20" minimum 12" high. Side entrance I did 24x14" they seem to like snug. All have covers. Keeps them warmer and is an extra place they sit. My does have raised litters of 12 in this size.

They do like snug. The nest burrow of a wild Oryctolagus cuniculus (European wild rabbit - ancestor of domestics) is about 2ft long,with a small chamber at the end not much bigger than the doe herself.

 

[MsTemeraire]

All have covers. Keeps them warmer and is an extra place they sit.

That's another advantage to this kind of nest box. The doe has somewhere to rest away from the babies, or just jump up for exercise. In Sweden, it's law for every rabbit hutch to have a shelf or box for jumping. I'm not in Sweden but have taken this on board and now most of mine have the same, and they really do use them.

 

[Rabbits by Accident]

That's another advantage to this kind of nest box. The doe has somewhere to rest away from the babies, or just jump up for exercise. In Sweden, it's law for every rabbit hutch to have a shelf or box for jumping. I'm not in Sweden but have taken this on board and now most of mine have the same, and they really do use them.

I agree! I have shelves in all my rabbit cages. The cages are tall enough for them to really stretch their backs, and have shelves for them to get off the wire. Oddly the bucks keep everything much cleaner than the does do. Many cages have multiple levels of shelves and they love it. However it does not work to keep the babies away from the doe LOL check out my profile picture and you will see what I mean - it's one of my favorite photos. The babies can be quite young and leap up onto a 15 to 18 in high shelf. Usually by 15-20 days old LOL

 

[Chaos]

This is one of my nestboxes, top removed, the others are just rectangular with a side entrance.

I made the floor so that it is about 2" deeper at the rear where the nest is, and the hole is above floor level inside. I put a ramp or hay outside so that is easy for the kits to go back in.

I'm pretty happy with this design, in winter I put a electric heating element under one back corner.

I need to build kindling boxes and I was recently advised to provide all of them with hide boxes. Trouble is dimensions given would make boxes that covered 1/2 the cage floor. My does are about 18" long stretched out and relaxing. The buck is older and larger. So how large do kindling and hide boxes need to be? Also if I use wire floors in hide box that leaves them visually exposed below. Does that matter? Lastly my does aren't fully grown yet. It seems as though each will need it's own sprawling estate before long!

 

[Rabbits by Accident]

Here is some info from the boxes I just built.

​

The nursery cages are 28"x43". My rabbits weigh 13+ lbs and are 20" long when they are just sitting there. If they lay out they can be over 30" long.

I built boxes that are 14"x 24" and they LOVE them. I wanted to make boxes that go across the back of the cage but they'd have to be shorter to maneuver.

​

They are 1/2 the width of the cage, so the moms only have a narrow area to stretch out - or the the top of the box. They seem to spend half the time on top. I had to take their shelves out to fit the boxes.

I like being able to lean in and check the kits without having to pull the box forward.

I built the boxes modularly so I can clean and even modify them easily. The top & bottoms are separate and a little larger dimension than the sides. I wanted a removable bottom so the kits could have a playhouse I don't have to clean. The top just sits down over the sides. I wouldn't bother to make a wire bottom, just use the existing cage wire or put the removable wooden base.

The bottom has corner triangles to keep it from being pushed around.

1) 2)​

Here are the nests
1) Calypso who got into her box so fast I couldn't slip the floor under, so her kits are on the wire. She also isn't a great nestbuilder - but she had 9 kits. The only problem with that is I can only move the box a little bit because it pushes the nest around on the wire.
2) Gertie's has the wooden bottom, and a beautiful nest with a HUGE amount of beautiful fur, but only 4 kits. She's getting old she used to have 10-14. But she's a great foster mom and now has 3 of Calypso's.

​

I hope this is enough info & measurements to help you design your boxes. I think I will leave mine large, even though the rabbits could fit in smaller. I might cut them down a bit so the moms don't have to jump quite as high to get on top & I can put their shelves back in. Usually they have 3 levels of shelves, especially when the kits get older.

Hope this helps -
Liz

 

[Chaos]

Here is some info from the boxes I just built.

View attachment 41138​

The nursery cages are 28"x43". My rabbits weigh 13+ lbs and are 20" long when they are just sitting there. If they lay out they can be over 30" long.

I built boxes that are 14"x 24" and they LOVE them. I wanted to make boxes that go across the back of the cage but they'd have to be shorter to maneuver.

View attachment 41140View attachment 41142View attachment 41147​

They are 1/2 the width of the cage, so the moms only have a narrow area to stretch out - or the the top of the box. They seem to spend half the time on top. I had to take their shelves out to fit the boxes.

I like being able to lean in and check the kits without having to pull the box forward.

I built the boxes modularly so I can clean and even modify them easily. The top & bottoms are separate and a little larger dimension than the sides. I wanted a removable bottom so the kits could have a playhouse I don't have to clean. The top just sits down over the sides. I wouldn't bother to make a wire bottom, just use the existing cage wire or put the removable wooden base.

View attachment 41139

The bottom has corner triangles to keep it from being pushed around.

1)View attachment 41143 2)View attachment 41144​

Here are the nests
1) Calypso who got into her box so fast I couldn't slip the floor under, so her kits are on the wire. She also isn't a great nestbuilder - but she had 9 kits. The only problem with that is I can only move the box a little bit because it pushes the nest around on the wire.
2) Gertie's has the wooden bottom, and a beautiful nest with a HUGE amount of beautiful fur, but only 4 kits. She's getting old she used to have 10-14. But she's a great foster mom and now has 3 of Calypso's.

View attachment 41147
​

I hope this is enough info & measurements to help you design your boxes. I think I will leave mine large, even though the rabbits could fit in smaller. I might cut them down a bit so the moms don't have to jump quite as high to get on top & I can put their shelves back in. Usually they have 3 levels of shelves, especially when the kits get older.

Hope this helps -
Liz

Thank you so much! You put shelves inside the birting box as kits grow? Those are much larger than I thought necessary, but I'd like to give them all more space anyway, joining cages and adding new ones. I'm wondering now if I lost my 1st litter because kindling box was too small for momma.

 

[Rabbits by Accident]

Thank you so much! You put shelves inside the birting box as kits grow? Those are much larger than I thought necessary, but I'd like to give them all more space anyway, joining cages and adding new ones. I'm wondering now if I lost my 1st litter because kindling box was too small for momma.​

I don't know how big your rabbits are - Mine are about 2 feet long when laying down (not stretched out) Those are 1" squares.

​

I don't think you would lose a litter with a smaller nest box. Unless it was too small for her to feed them, but then it would have been too small for her to fit into to have them. I've had 10lb rabbits give birth in kitty litter buckets successfully. They actually make great nest boxes, just screw a board across the front.

​

I don't put shelves in the box, I put shelves in the cage over the nestbox. Here are some kits having fun This is one of the main reasons that I like dog crates. They are nice & high & the rabbits can have shelves, etc. When I first got Gertie, she was almost crippled because she had been kept in a small, low cage. She couldn't even jump onto a shelf, I had to put steps up for her to climb. She is old now, but still in much better shape than when I got her Bad enough they have to live in cages, at least I can make it interesting, or at least a bit more room.

​

p.s. I do not recommend putting plastic on the shelving - seemed like a good idea at the time though LOL

Some people say rabbits prefer a small space. I don't know, mine do fine & seem to really LOVE the new boxes.

Gertie is my remaining foundation doe - the first one I got. She was so huge that I actually usually use an old dresser drawer for her nestbox. She has had up to 14 and divided them into 2 groups within the box. She fed them separately so nobody had to fight for a nipple. She's an absolutely awesome mom!

The other rabbits used the typical commercial nestboxes until just now. So, 11-13 lb rabbits were fine raising litters in standard boxes, I think they are 12"x18"x12" high.

But, over the winter for the first time I lost FOUR babies that were dragged out or climbed out before they were old enough to get back in.

Tip - put a block of 2x4 or 2x6 in front of the nest so bitties can find their way back in once they start getting around.

Anyway, I remembered the front entry nestboxes I had 40 years ago and thought I'd try them again! Glad I did! I'm hoping that the babies can crawl back to the nest if they get dragged toward the entrance.

Liz

 

[Rabbits by Accident]

I need to build kindling boxes and I was recently advised to provide all of them with hide boxes. Trouble is dimensions given would make boxes that covered 1/2 the cage floor. My does are about 18" long stretched out and relaxing. The buck is older and larger. So how large do kindling and hide boxes need to be? Also if I use wire floors in hide box that leaves them visually exposed below. Does that matter? Lastly my does aren't fully grown yet. It seems as though each will need it's own sprawling estate before long!

Noticed your comment about hide boxes. I'm assuming you mean boxes to hide in while there is no nest box in the cage?

I designed the nestboxes so that the bottom is removable with the idea it could be a hide/house with no cleaning for the kits & for the moms when they don't have kits.

​

Harvey LOVED his bucket - I don't usually put wood on it, but he loved it.

I provide a cat litter bucket for each rabbit, but for some reason, the girls don't like them. They just use them for a bathroom. The boys, however, LOVE their boxes & lay in them and keep them VERY clean. So usually, unless we're going to have a big storm, I don't make the girls have to have one. But the boys keep theirs all the time

Liz

 

[Rabbits by Accident]

My silver fox are 10-12# my permanent den boxes with front entrance are minimum 12x20" minimum 12" high. Side entrance I did 24x14" they seem to like snug. All have covers. Keeps them warmer and is an extra place they sit. My does have raised litters of 12 in this size.

I've had a couple 6-8 day old kits manage to wander out the door. I thought I should add a barrier. I don't want to make the hole too small though. How large is the hole into your nest box?
Thanks for your help!
Liz