OneAcreFarm
Well-known member
mystang89":2a029co6 said:The stretching process seems to be the hardest part of the entire thing. It seems the pelts have to be JUST right in order for them to be stretched properly. Can't be too dry but can't be too wet. Thanks for the tip about spraying them with a bit of water, that seems to help.
The reason I didn't use the mother earth way was because of this.
http://www.taxidermy.net/forums/TanningArticles/05/e/05AE925E56.html
The story that no one wants to tell or admit it basic chemistry involved. All alums contain sulfates. Though the tan is exceptional initially with its color and stretch with little liklihood of slippage because of its astringent characteristics, it has a finite lifespan.
The alum tan deposits the sulfates (SO4) into the cell structure of the hide and it is retained there. Over the years humidity comes into play. Humidity (H20) is also introduced into the hide and the chemical compositions in combination with each other for H2SO4 or sulfuric acid. This formation ultimately destroys the hide (remember all those old paintings and fabrics are stored in ACID FREE containers? That's what acid does to the hides as well as old books, paintings and fabrics.)
Many argue they don't care as it gives them the product they desire and the customer won't live long enough to see it happen anyway. The great works in the Smithsonian Institute have disintegrated because alum was one of the first tans used. Its results are now being seen. I don't know of any work done by Hornaday that still exists because it was all done with alum (Maybe Stephen Rogers or John Janelli would know.) The tanned hides from antiquity have survived and they used brain tans and vegetable tans.
So the choice is yours, but chemistry can't be refuted in this case.
I just didn't want to take the chance.
Seems you could just neutralize it like the other did, I mean, that one uses ACID....