Putting rabbits in a metal shed

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mystang89

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So my dad wants to raise rabbits now. He bought a 10x14 shed which will be used dual purpose for storing equipment like lawnmowers etc and also rabbits. I have been tasked with figuring out how to make it happen.

Now I haven't a clue about cages. When I made mine I just looked up the min requirements for rabbits, saw what I had room for and went out and built it with wood. I'm thinking that's not exactly going to work in his case. 1.) I can't see him going out and cleaning the cages out. I was thinking that wire cages would work best for him but haven't a clue what dimensions he needs or if he should bother making them himself in order to fit his needs or buy them.

On buying them I haven't a clue what to look for there either. I read some of your posts that say something about holes and size of wire etc but I might as well be reading Greek.

So what are you opinions on what he would be able to do? I'm going to start him out slow, maybe 2 does and a buck and if he likes it he can go from there.
 
Well, a metal shed is basically a slow cooker, so before adding anything live, add good ventilation and put the shed where there is a good amount of shade most of the day...
 
Starting with a trio, you will want FIVE cages, one for each adult rabbit and two grow out pens. Two grow out pens/cages so you can separate sexes and minimize oopses. Cage size is going to depend somewhat on breed and the minimum size you're comfortable with. I use 24 x 30 and 30 x 30 cages, on a 14' wall you can put 5 30" cages or 4 36" cages. The layout I'd choose would be to have the breeding animals on one wall and the grow outs on the 10' wall. Put them up at shoulder height to minimize aching backs. You will need to build something to hang the cages from, in a metal garden shed there is nothing to use. I'd use PVC pipe but I'll leave that to you. I'd order precut cages from Klubertanz or BASS Equipment so you don't need to figure out wire gauges or hole dimensions, don't forget the J clips and pliers and order the cages with baby saver wire.
Clear as mud? ;)
The other thing you should look into is radiant barrier paint, google Kool Coat or radiant barrier, I'm very intrigued with this stuff and it doesn't look like it costs a ton either.
 
Metal sheds need to be insulated as well as ventilated (any building needs GOOD ventilation) You can insulate with rigid insulation, then cover with a waterproof.washable surface or a heavy plastic. 14 gage wire, galvanized after welding for cage floors, the wiore spacing should be 1/2 x 1 inch. You can use larger spacing for the sides and top of cages, but best varmit exclusion uses the 1/2 by 1 wire all around.

Each cage 'type' and design has its own pros and cons. I dislike trays with a passion, but I do find what I had to be preferable to the dropping 'Chute' under my current cage bank-- the problem with what I have is a case of the design-- it is difficult for me to clean under the first cage where the dropping chute is closest to the floor of the cages.

you have to decide how much room is also needed to perform the tasks needed to care for the animals and their area. Having a wall full of cages is not a good idea if one cannot move freely within the structure. Storage of feed and supplies also needs to be accounted for--we don't have 'shed horns' to help squeeze stuff into the space available. ;)
 
Frosted Rabbits":11ebdq80 said:
we don't have 'shed horns' to help squeeze stuff into the space available. ;)

Bwahahaha :lol: :lol: Tell me about it. I have a setup in a similar size area --- lawnmower, golf cart, rabbits, feed, carriers, chicken stuff...etc. I use the trays. It makes the most sense for me right now. it's a temporary setup and I need multiple levels since i'm sharing the place with so much junk! I have some nice new kammalop cages against the wall on shelves, and some legged klubertanz stackers on the other side of my "rabbit aisle". Cleaning trays is not too bad in summer, but these days...oy. I agree with the advice so far. My 2cents: Definitely get the cages set up BEFORE the lawnmowers get to move in :D

We have our shed three sided with a metal roof - we insulated with an inch of foam and then a layer of wood. It blocks the wind but has good ventilation still. In summer I would hose down the roof to keep the buns cool.
 
ChickiesnBunnies":fdtu2g4w said:
Well, a metal shed is basically a slow cooker, so before adding anything live, add good ventilation and put the shed where there is a good amount of shade most of the day...

That's a good point I hadn't thought about until you said something. I'll definitely bring that up to him and make sure that the shed is ventilated and insulated before the rabbits go in there.

3mina":fdtu2g4w said:
The other thing you should look into is radiant barrier paint, google Kool Coat or radiant barrier, I'm very intrigued with this stuff and it doesn't look like it costs a ton either.

I looked up how much the radiant barrier was on Kool Coat website and was very surprised that it didn't cost that much. It was less expensive per gallon than cheap paint you get from Home Depot by at least $20. I'll read more into it and see how viable that would be for his budget and look at some reviews.

Frosted Rabbits":fdtu2g4w said:
but I do find what I had to be preferable to the dropping 'Chute' under my current cage bank

I don't understand what you mean by "dropping Chute" under the cages. Do you have a picture of your setup?<br /><br />__________ Sun Jan 20, 2013 11:19 pm __________<br /><br />Well, I talked to my dad about putting the rabbits in a metal shed...actually I was talking to someone else about who then stole my idea and presented it to him like it was theirs lol but at least the point got across.

Dad has a wood shed that he stores both wood and some of his tools in. I suggested taking the tools out of this shed, (which is made from wood and is actually open on one side so as to have air flow,) put the tools in the metal shed and put the rabbits where they used to go. There would still be plenty of room and they would be better off. Seems he likes the idea and it saves him some money, so everyone including the rabbits win.
 
I have cages made by Bass and KW Cages and I prefer the KW ones. We have stackable cages since our space is limited. We use pans on the top cages and let the poop/pee fall to the ground below for the lower cages. After we bought these we found someone locally who built the rest of our cages for us, at half the cost. I paid a little extra to get the 1/2" x 1/2" cage floor, and glad I did because it's easier on the kits' feet.
 
mystang89":36t8oyg5 said:
I don't understand what you mean by "dropping Chute" under the cages. Do you have a picture of your setup?

__


My Brother made a cage bank for me, without my input-- so, it is 5 holes long. Under the cages, he put a three sided 'pan', on a slope-- that is my 'chute' I have it drain into a decently sized pan from a 4 hole carrier that is no longer in use.
 

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