Pretty bunnies! I love the breed. Your posing is on the right track; some slight adjustments will make them look even better!
Doe #1 would benefit from having her back feet further back, so that her toes line up with her knee (1). She might be called "overposed" which is when her hind feet are pushed too far forward - that makes her look a little "chopped" rather than her hindquarters looking nicely full to the table (4).
She needs her front feet forward, or actually I would just push her head back a bit, to line her front toes up with her eyes (2). With her head forward like it is, it makes her look like there what's called a "hesitation at the shoulder," meaning the smooth curve of her topline does not start immediately behind her head (3).
With these adjustments, I think she would present as a nicely rounded doe.
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Doe #2 looks properly posed in the front (2); with her front end properly posed, you can see that the curve of her topline starts directly behind her head, with no hesitation. Her profile does look like she's overall longer than Doe 1 (in commercial types, longer length is not a good thing unless it's matched by greater depth as well).
She may be posed correctly in the back too, but it's hard to tell exactly where her back toes are. This might be because she's a little "pinched" (3) and has closer-set back legs, or it could be because she's fighting you.
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The buck looks well-placed in front (2); he may have a very slight hesitation at the shoulder. He looks just a bit tucked up/overposed in back (1). Ideally a rabbit's back feet, knee, and "peak" (the point at which the rise from the should starts to curve back downward to the hind end) should all line up. This buck's back feet are under his peak (long blue line); however, if you moved his feet back to line up with his knee (medium blue line), you would find that he "peaks early." Rabbits that peak early often end up looking rather flat and long in body, or in other words there is a long space between their shoulder and where they start rounding down (4).
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Regarding their fighting you, that will probably improve as you get used to posing them, and they get used to being posed - it takes teamwork.
Just be gentle in moving their parts into place, over and over (not necessarily for hours straight, of course - even rabbits have a point at which they've had enough). Sometimes you can gently touch/poke at their hind end around the base of their tail - kind of goose them - and that will help them relax their midsection.
Frequently, rabbits that do well on the judging table are the ones that have been worked with so much that they are basically trained to pose, or that pose automatically. And a well-built rabbit will often pose naturally, as long as it's relaxed. It does seem like some breeds are more prone to fighting it than others: Mini Rex always seem inclined to lean into my hands, whereas most Himalayans I've handled are almost like putty - they stay however you place them!
Rabbits that have structural faults can fight a pose because it is uncomfortable for them, for instance if they're pinched, have a weak midsection, or have an improper head mount. Something else that can interfere with posing, especially in does, is when they are feeling amorous; then it can be hard to keep them from stretching out flat and lifting (pretty funny to watch on a show table!). Another thing that can be problematic is when a rabbit has an especially dominant personality - that rabbit will
not want you to hold its head down. This is a case, though, where training will overcome the problem; it may just take longer than usual.
