New to this with questions

[Seeker]

I'm in the middle of building my hutch. They are all wire, 3X6 (3X3 with divider)and I made two of them. I'm in NC so it's hot down here. It's going in back of the house facing south so it will be in the shade. It's going to have a metal roof and both cages will be suspended from wooden posts. So far does this sound OK?

How many rabbits per 3X3, just 1?
Should I keep the male on a different level?
After the doe has kits and they are ready to be moved, can they all stay in a 3X3 or do I need another hutch?

Thanks

 

[ottersatin]

Hello Seeker,
there are a lot of answers to those questions.
Each rabbit requires it's own cage, Bucks are often housed in the lower cages.
This is not a necessity, but a good choice. Your cages are rather large
I would go with a 24 X 36 or a 30 X 36 cage. A Doe with litter would do better
in the larger 30 X 36 while a Buck will be just fine in a 24 X 30 as they are
not going to be raising six or eight kits to weaning. Some choose to move
the kits and leave the Dam in her cage while others choose to move the Dam
to a new cage and leave the kits be. You will need more than just a few more cages
depending on how many of the offspring you will be retaining as future breeding stock.
you will also have to separate the Bucks from the Does to prevent early breeding.
Bucks will also have to be housed in their own cages to avoid possible brutal and
bloody battles. Some Does will even fight and if you want your rabbits for Show
you will not want them brutalized in their growing period.
If you are in a warm climate a metal roof will get very hot.
Heat prostration is a Rabbit killer.
There is a whole lot more to it than just putting a Buck and a Doe together
and counting the offspring. Have you read a few GOOD Books on the subject?
Do you have a knowledgeable reputable breeder nearby who mi\ght help you
on you trip into Rabbit raising?
Ottersatin. ldtimer:

 

[sammysue63]

I would definitely put the bucks on the bottom level. They can be naughty and have very good aim when they want it. :lol:

 

[BoxerMom]

Would it be possible to use a different material for the tops of the cages? Maybe a sheet of plywood? Metal will get very hot, very fast. Even if the temp doesn't seem too high, it could be several degrees higher in a cage with metal roofing.

 

[eco2pia]

I would worry about the metal roof also. In just an hour of hot direct sun under a metal roof your bunnies may die or at least become heat sterile (bucks). If there is absolutely NO direct sun you may get away with it. I have a metal hutch (sides only) in deep full shade under mature cedar trees. Sun literally never reaches it, moss grows abundantly there and weeds wont. The metal doesn't rot or absorb urine, but I am in western Washington, we have exceedingly mild summers and winters, and buckets of rain. And I even opted for a wood and asphalt shingle roof, because I was still afraid of cooking them.

 

[Seeker]

I thought that heat rises? I'll listen to the experts. Let me ask this as far as the roof goes.

What if I use a sheet of wood with a sheet of tar paper, on top of that a sheet of foam insulation with the metal roof on top of that? I already have all of these materials, that's why I'm putting it that way. I would think that the insulation would prevent any heat that may occur.

The back of my house faces due north, which is a mistake in my original post. It is 100% completely in the shade all day long.

 

[akane]

Heat only rises if it has a way to escape. Metal absorbs heat and transfers it through to the other side where it gets trapped in the building because the top of the metal is even hotter than what is building under the roof.

It's best not to make cages more than 30" because it gets hard to reach the backs for most people. I made a 3x6' cage that I occasionally divide and I have to put my head and shoulders completely in the cage to clean the back corners. If I don't have it divided sometimes I just climb in it. I made our cage block 24x48" with removeable dividers so I have 2x4' or 2x2' cages. I'm thinking of cutting the 3x6' down in to two 30x36" cages to stack in our condo since I can't fit the 3x6' anyway and it's such a pain to clean. With cages each adult rabbit will need it's own. You need much bigger space than that to keep unneutered rabbits together without risking serious injury from fights. You will also need at least 2 cages to wean in to. 1 for buck kits and 1 for doe kits or you may have some uncontrolled breeding. It's also a good idea to have a few extra cages in case you don't sell/butcher all your young rabbits when planned so you can start separating them if they reach breeding age to prevent fights.

 

[Anntann]

Metal roof with a layer of the hard pink (or blue) insulation underneath it is fine. That's what is on our rabbitryhouses, chicken coops, and in fact, our apartment at the farm. Works great. If it's just for a shade/rain cover, and the ends or sides are open, you don't need the insulation.

As long as the heat has a place to escape (vents, open air, whatever) you won't see a build up. More important to have the air flow.

If my buns are in a cage, they're in something long and narrow. They need the hopping room. Personally, I like your 3x6 idea. a 3x3 is enough for a large rabbit to move around in. Just remember to make the doors large enough so you can reach ALL the way to the far back corner, because that's where they'll go when you want to get them out! :lol:

Some of my indoor cages are 2x4...mostly for isolation animals, newbies, and the angora bucks. Long and narrow gives them a potty corner on one end, and food on the other. Works well.

Build what you can, then adapt them and change as you find necessary. Some rabbits require more room.

About kits and cage size...a LOT depends on the breed of rabbit. I'm thinking that you might build a cage (3x6) and have a divider in it with a "door". or a removable divider. That way you can have your doe in a 3x3, she kindles, and then you open that "door/divider" to give the rabbits a much larger area to grow out in.

I've recently started to put the nestboxes on the outside of the cage/pen. Gives the doe a new place to have her kits, no reduction in cage size, and the nests are easy access.

 

[Seeker]

I'm planning to get New Zealand's. I was planning to have no sides or back until the late fall. Yesterday, I noticed that the sun will hit one side for an hour or two so I am going to put up at least one side for now.

I almost finished the roof today after work and after the wife had me do some things. I'm doing the roof separate and will god willing finish putting everything together this weekend.

There are many ideas that I liked including the nestbox outside.