New to rabbits

[JOhn B]

I don't have any rabbits yet. I am looking to start raising meat rabbit for my family. I have an idea of which breed (NZW), but still trying to figure out my setup. My plan is to build my own cages (36x30x18) and put them under a custom built cover so they can be pulled out and cleaned easily. Looking for suggestions on feeders, water and anything other accessories that I will need to complete the cages. As I said, I am new and don't want to make too many mistake that could impact raising and breeding.

 

[Albert]

I don't think you'll find many people that didn't finish a habitat project and say "That's perfect! No mistakes were made!"

Give it your best shot, consider the weather most of all. Not just for the rabbits but for you trudging out there every day.

There are better places to put our rabbits for us but it's not good for them so it's nearly always a compromise.

Sorry we don't use fixed cages so I can't help you with that.

 

[JG3]

I agree with Albert. You’re going to make mistakes and learn along the way. I researched and read so much for months and we just got our rabbits 3 weeks ago and already wishing we did a few things differently. On top of it, the farmer sold us rabbits that carry pasteurella without telling us (actually lied because i Asked) so we’re learning lots, quick.

Everyones setups are different and people like different feeders or water bottles etc for different reasons. Consider the weather you have, especially if it’s going to freeze water, etc. That will dictate the route you go. For example, we use crocks since it gets very cold here in the winter and the metal nipple of a water bottle would freeze quickly even if the water in the bottle itself isn’t frozen and the rabbits wouldn’t be able to get water out.

Consider wind direction when building, rabbits need to be out of the wind and precipitation.

There’s a search bar at the top of the page i have often used. Just put in a keyword and all the threads with that word pop up. I’ve read past posts for hours, LOL.

Although we’re off to a rough start, i don’t regret it at All. I love the rabbits and I’m sure you will to. My extra advice would be to research how to choose the best stock when buying. I don’t mean like purebred or pedigreed etc. I mean health and build wise. Wanting rabbits that have thick fur on bottom of feet if they will be housed in water, big ears as that’s how they cool themselves and heat is hard on rabbits, check their teeth, bums, noses, eyes, etc. You don’t need to pay a lot for quality rabbits. Sometimes simple mutts are the best. Just ask where you’re getting them lots of questions And give them a health inspection.

 

[Nibbles]

Welcome to RabbitTalk. Lots of good info here that you can use as a guide. Do you have a timetable for when to start?

 

[L&Tadventures]

I've read to make sure you get a quality wire (14 guage at least) and make sure it is (GAW) (means it's galvanized after wire or weild) this way it is best protected from rust and will last for the most years. Best of luck and have fun!

 

[JOhn B]

I agree with Albert. You’re going to make mistakes and learn along the way. I researched and read so much for months and we just got our rabbits 3 weeks ago and already wishing we did a few things differently. On top of it, the farmer sold us rabbits that carry pasteurella without telling us (actually lied because i Asked) so we’re learning lots, quick.

Everyones setups are different and people like different feeders or water bottles etc for different reasons. Consider the weather you have, especially if it’s going to freeze water, etc. That will dictate the route you go. For example, we use crocks since it gets very cold here in the winter and the metal nipple of a water bottle would freeze quickly even if the water in the bottle itself isn’t frozen and the rabbits wouldn’t be able to get water out.

Consider wind direction when building, rabbits need to be out of the wind and precipitation.

There’s a search bar at the top of the page i have often used. Just put in a keyword and all the threads with that word pop up. I’ve read past posts for hours, LOL.

Although we’re off to a rough start, i don’t regret it at All. I love the rabbits and I’m sure you will to. My extra advice would be to research how to choose the best stock when buying. I don’t mean like purebred or pedigreed etc. I mean health and build wise. Wanting rabbits that have thick fur on bottom of feet if they will be housed in water, big ears as that’s how they cool themselves and heat is hard on rabbits, check their teeth, bums, noses, eyes, etc. You don’t need to pay a lot for quality rabbits. Sometimes simple mutts are the best. Just ask where you’re getting them lots of questions And give them a health inspection.

Thanks for your advice. You mentioned things you wish you would have done things differently (in the beginning). Can you share what was?

 

[JG3]

Thanks for your advice. You mentioned things you wish you would have done things differently (in the beginning). Can you share what was?

Mostly our hutches. I still really love them. We live in town so I wanted something that was nice to the eye but also functional. But we didn’t account for having to quarantine rabbits due to sickness. They aren’t just cages we can remove and put somewhere else. We’d actually have to take the rabbit out of the environment they’re used to and put them in a whole new cage and I feel that that adds more stress than their system needs when already sick. Next time, I’d make their wire cage sections removable or have them housed under a lean to type system. We didn’t expect to have to be dealing with a sick rabbit right off the bat.

Also, I wish we made the roof to open on the top, like we did for the grow out cages (built like a rabbit tractor, but just off the ground) that way when a rabbit has been sick and we need to wash and expose to the sun to kill bacteria it’s just easier. We are going to have to lay the hutch on its side to get the sun in it fully, where as if the roof opened like our grow out cages, we’d just have to open that to let the sun in.

Ya live, ya learn LOL.

Other than that, I’m happy with everything else currently. Our first two litters are due in 2 weeks, we will see how smoothly that all goes then.

 

[Mini Lop Mama]

I find cute bowls at used stores for water and food. They need to be thick so the rabbits can't grab them and weighty so they can't drag them around. Cheap and pretty way to get some good and easy clean feeders!

 

[Albert]

Thanks for your advice. You mentioned things you wish you would have done things differently (in the beginning). Can you share what was?

Don't use ramps for mothers with kits, we had to change the whole configuration to get the indoor space on the same level as the run.

Small fence staples aren't strong enough to hold back a determined bunny. We added screwed aluminium strips to hold wire in place.

The weight of the cage with a Mom and her 8 week old kits. We added handles at both ends to make it an easier lift.

 

[L&Tadventures]

Since you have not built your cages yet, have you considered a hanging cage set up? There are a LOT less cleaning chores if you can do that.

If you build with wood frame and if there is a wooden ledge anywhere along the bottom of the cage then poop/urine will built up, and wood will be harder to clean and sanitize.

Ive seen a few different examples of hanging cages set up, and we would like to go with that as that is the easiest cage type to clean.
This is much easier to clean having no pans underneath and you can just shovel everything to compost vs. having to clean pans under cages. hanging cage example

 

[JOhn B]

I have planned on a wooden enclosure where the cages will sit on braces that have been covered with galvanized trim. Cages (got KWA Cages on the way) will sit on the galvanized metal. I had thought about hanging them but for now just going to set them on galvanized wood. I put together a sketch. I may still hang the cages, the design allows for that.

 

[JG3]

I have planned on a wooden enclosure where the cages will sit on braces that have been covered with galvanized trim. Cages (got KWA Cages on the way) will sit on the galvanized metal. I had thought about hanging them but for now just going to set them on galvanized wood. I put together a sketch. I may still hang the cages, the design allows for that.

Something like that is definitely what we would do next time or if we decided to expand. I think this design is a great idea.

 

[KelleyBee]

I have planned on a wooden enclosure where the cages will sit on braces that have been covered with galvanized trim. Cages (got KWA Cages on the way) will sit on the galvanized metal. I had thought about hanging them but for now just going to set them on galvanized wood. I put together a sketch. I may still hang the cages, the design allows for that.

My advice would be to hang if at all possible. Poo gets trapped on anything, even cage wire, although to a lesser degree. Hanging provides the greatest opportunity for the majority of feces to pass safely away.

I don't have any rabbits yet. I am looking to start raising meat rabbit for my family. I have an idea of which breed (NZW), but still trying to figure out my setup. My plan is to build my own cages (36x30x18) and put them under a custom built cover so they can be pulled out and cleaned easily. Looking for suggestions on feeders, water and anything other accessories that I will need to complete the cages. As I said, I am new and don't want to make too many mistake that could impact raising and breeding.

Like others have said, regardless of what you do, you will be tweaking and changing as you go. It’s just not possible to know what the absolute best setup will be and everyone’s needs, from age to height to physical abilities to climate and physical surroundings, etc., all play a role in decisions and adjustments we end up making as we care for our herd.

 

[JOhn B]

My advice would be to hang if at all possible. Poo gets trapped on anything, even cage wire, although to a lesser degree. Hanging provides the greatest opportunity for the majority of feces to pass safely away.

Like others have said, regardless of what you do, you will be tweaking and changing as you go. It’s just not possible to know what the absolute best setup will be and everyone’s needs, from age to height to physical abilities to climate and physical surroundings, etc., all play a role in decisions and adjustments we end up making as we care for our herd.

Thanks @KelleyBee. With my design I have incorporate the agility to make bottom supports wider so cages will not sit on them I understand that using eye hook screws can support the top, but how do you keep the bottom from swinging? More eye hook screws? Do you use Wire, chain or rope? Or do you mount the back of the cage to supports and hook the front. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

 

[JOhn B]

Since you have not built your cages yet, have you considered a hanging cage set up? There are a LOT less cleaning chores if you can do that.

If you build with wood frame and if there is a wooden ledge anywhere along the bottom of the cage then poop/urine will built up, and wood will be harder to clean and sanitize.

Ive seen a few different examples of hanging cages set up, and we would like to go with that as that is the easiest cage type to clean.
This is much easier to clean having no pans underneath and you can just shovel everything to compost vs. having to clean pans under cages. hanging cage example

@L&Tadventures I like the clean look of this build, but I notice that the bottoms of the case swing a lot. Any way to prevent this?

 

[JOhn B]

I've read to make sure you get a quality wire (14 guage at least) and make sure it is (GAW) (means it's galvanized after wire or weild) this way it is best protected from rust and will last for the most years. Best of luck and have fun!

Thanks @L&Tadventures. The Cages I am getting are from KW Cages with 14ga upgrade. When I decide to grow my rabbitry, I will buy rolls and build my own.