New idea for a rabbit colony.

[MaggieJ]

New to me, anyway.

I have an eight foot square rabbit colony in part of the shed. The other half houses our two geese at night and our supply of hay and feed. The colony has done well, but I'm having increasing problems with getting in and out (without rabbits escaping) because of the arthritis in my knees. There are pictures of the existing colony in this thread, for those who may not be familiar with my set-up.
pictures-of-nest-tunnels-in-colony-t2903.html

What I am considering is building an elevated colony around the three sides of the existing space. I think floor wire is three feet wide, so I would end up with two areas 8 feet by 3 feet and a third across the back that would be just 3 feet by two feet. I would want slide-in dividers so it could be partitioned off for catching the rabbits or for maintenance and cleaning.

In the pictures you will see four black panels used at present as gates. I have similar but smaller panels as well. I thought these could be re-purposed as long drop-down doors for access. They are heavy so the frame would have to be strong.

I would like drop nest tunnels with access from the outside. That way I could check on kits more easily.

As I say, I am still in the dream stage with this idea, but I think it would combine the cleanliness of wire cages with the family life the rabbits so much enjoy. I do like the ease of daily care over multiple cages, especially in winter. The chickens could have access during the day which would keep the shavings under the colony stirred.

Ideas and critique are welcome. I did consider just joining all the old cages together but they are too old and flimsy to make it feasible.

 

[DumansArk]

(Not Relevant to the topic but just wanted to say: Those fiery red colored kits in the nestbox photo were just gorgeous!)


Your knees will love the elevated colony, I am sure. No escaping rabbits will be so nice for you too.
I LOVE the idea for a slide in divider; that will be wonderful. The chicken clean up crew underneath will be so nice to have too, and that brings me to my only thoughts that might be helpful if you haven't thought of it already; something to cover the raised colony.

Our chickens like to get on top the rabbit cages here when they can (one determined banty in particular) and there was always a couple that just liked to hang out and poop on top the cages during the day. Nasty. I put a fence up to keep them out entirely but miss their cleanup job underneath.

Maybe yours wont bother flying up at all though especially with hay and droppings on the floor to keep them busy scratching through.

Sounds like a great setup and can't wait to see pictures!

 

[Miss M]

Maybe yours wont bother flying up at all

Oh, I'm sure they would! I have a very, very well-fed hen in our rabbitry, and she still tries to roost on top of the cages... never mind that they are almost up to the ceiling! We did find her on top of the end cage once, and blocked access. Then we found her on top of the one cage that has a top a little lower than the rest. So... we blocked that.

Maggie, just make sure that whatever you design, you can reach easily into all corners.

Duman, this is totally fftopic: ... but that is such a snuggly looking Astrex bunny you have in your signature! He looks so soft and plush! :razz:

 

[MaggieJ]

Good point about making sure that I can reach any part of the colony. I can't remember if floor wire is 30 inches or 36 inches wide, but as long as the whole panel can flip down I should be able to reach... or at least herd them into the short section at the back.

I might angle the wire on the top to make it too steep for the chickens to roost. They have their own coop, but like to hang out in the goose area during the day. Once in a while one will get in with the rabbits, but not often.

 

[Miss M]

as long as the whole panel can flip down I should be able to reach... or at least herd them into the short section at the back.

That sounds like it would work... you'd be able to get your shoulders in there.

I might angle the wire on the top to make it too steep for the chickens to roost.

You may do better to enclose the area above with chicken wire or something... the borrowed chicken I have in my rabbitry right now is a very determined and persistent critter. :roll:

 

[MaggieJ]

Chicken wire right to the rafters would work. Otherwise I'd have them up there trying to lay eggs.

 

[MamaSheepdog]

I think floor wire is three feet wide

Floor wire comes in 12", 18", 24", 30", 36", 48", 60", and 72". I don't think I would go any wider than 30" for ease of access.

I would want slide-in dividers so it could be partitioned off for catching the rabbits or for maintenance and cleaning.

You will need to cut the horizontal wires where you plan to have the dividers, but the panels look strong so that shouldn't jeopardize the structural integrity at all. I would recommend having a dedicated feeding area so they are used to all gathering in one area and you can easily cordon them off when you wish to catch them or clean the cage.

I thought these could be re-purposed as long drop-down doors for access.

Instead of drop down doors I would go with flip top lids. That way the rabbits will still be contained by the side wall.

Depending upon the width of the floor and the width of the panels you have, you may be able to angle the "lid" against the wall steeply enough to keep the chickens from roosting on it.

In addition, you could then forgo the slide in dividers and simply have a panel that will fit the inner dimensions of the run. You could even use this to "herd" them to one end of the enclosure.

the frame would have to be strong.

I am assuming that you are going to use the walls of the shed as the back of the run. I would bend one or two inches of the floor wire up and staple it to the wall all the way around.

Ideally I would treat the wood with polyurethane or use the plastic wall panels to protect the wood and keep it sanitary. I believe the plastic panels are about $24 here, and they are 4' x 8', which would give you 3 sections 8' long and 16" wide.

If you decide to go with the flip top lid option, you would just need to secure the ends of the front panels to the wall. I doubt you would have any issues with sagging, but as supports you could use steel stakes as I did for my growout cages.

If you go with the drop down door, you could probably use schedule 80 pvc pipe and secure it to the wall with the type of bracket used for closet rods. If you buy two "T"s you can support the span on the short side as well. You might also use additional "T"s so you can make a couple of legs along the long spans.

 

[DumansArk]

Miss M your chickens sound like ours! (And HA! Thanks --- I really am liking this litter of Astrex too! SUPER plushy )

MaggieJ we had eggs laid on top of the rabbit cages there for awhile too.

MSD good idea about flip top instead of drop down. And way to go with the wire dimension info & pvc idea!

 

[MaggieJ]

Lots of good ideas there, MSD. Thank you!

The panels are heavy. The reason I generally prefer flip down to flip up is that I could get hurt if one came down on me.

I would probably feed and water them in the short section at back. It would be central and the shorter door would be easier to manage on a daily basis.

I'm mulling things over still, but eventually I will get out paper and pencil and start planning properly. The main cost would be the floor wire. We have quite a lot of "found" materials around to work with.

 

[MamaSheepdog]

The reason I generally prefer flip down to flip up is that I could get hurt if one came down on me.

I didn't explain my flip top lid idea very well- if you attach it to the top edge of the front wall panel, you would simply lift it up and then let it down so it is hanging parallel to the front. The only danger then would be when you are swinging it up and out.

 

[Zab]

Hm.. I think I'd like to see a colony set-up with wire floors and hanging type. Am I right that it'll run along the walls like a U? With nesting boxes/houses hanging from under it? 30" would be like 1 metre I think.. that's pretty wide. Like the widest side on many swedish cages... (just trying to picture it)
I can't even picture that set-up :lol: but I'm sure it'll get nice. I like that the buns will still be able to be social with each others, even as your body keeps you from having a ground colony. Despite my young age I have a back injury, so I understand when the body simply won't agree with that extra bending or lifting in daily life. It's always interesting to see how others solve problems that comes up

 

[MaggieJ]

Am I right that it'll run along the walls like a U? With nesting boxes/houses hanging from under it?

Yes, that is exactly right, Zab.

A metre is just over 39 inches... so it wouldn't be quite as wide as you are picturing.

 

[Zab]

Am I right that it'll run along the walls like a U? With nesting boxes/houses hanging from under it?

Yes, that is exactly right, Zab.

A metre is just over 39 inches... so it wouldn't be quite as wide as you are picturing.

Would be interesting to see. When planning horsepastures, it's generally adviced to rather make them long and ''narrow'' than broad and short, to let the horses run.. I bet that could be nice for rabbits too

Bah, you should all just convert to the metric system, inches makes no sense 70-75 cm something then I guess. Well still not too bad. Easier to reach too.

 

[MaggieJ]

Right now, in the floor colony, they run round and round the nest tunnels, which are in the middle. They like to lounge up there too.

 

[Miss M]

Miss M your chickens sound like ours! (And HA! Thanks --- I really am liking this litter of Astrex too! SUPER plushy )

MaggieJ we had eggs laid on top of the rabbit cages there for awhile too.

Yep, our borrowed rabbitry chicken laid an egg on top of Thumper's cage. We blocked it off, but she's still trying to figure out how to get on top of the cages. I'll find her perilously perched, one leg on the corner of the cage and the other on the hay feeder, trying to get up there. :roll:

If you do flip-top, would you still be able to keep the chickens off?<br /><br />__________ Sun Dec 30, 2012 6:51 pm __________<br /><br />

Bah, you should all just convert to the metric system, inches makes no sense

They have the metric system in Canada... it's just us pesky Americans. :lol: We're a bunch of rebels, remember? :razz: I like inches and miles and gallons!

 

[MaggieJ]

I really don't like metric. I know it is logical and easy to work in, but I can visualize an inch, a foot or a yard far more easily than a centimetre or a metre. I'm a bit better better with grams and kilograms... but still prefer pounds and ounces. I think we tend to like the system we were raised with... and like so many other things in my life they changed the rules during the 1960's and 70's.

 

[mystang89]

Ideally I would treat the wood with polyurethane or use the plastic wall panels to protect the wood and keep it sanitary.

Is polyurethane ok to use on wood that rabbits might chew on? I've never done it before but if its ok then I think I might do that next time. Would the polyurethane only be used to keep the wood safe from weather or does it have another purpose I.E urine.

You may do better to enclose the area above with chicken wire or something... the borrowed chicken I have in my rabbitry right now is a very determined and persistent critter. :roll:

:yeahthat:

 

[Zab]

hehe, I'm just kidding of course I could use a converter instead of trying some half-bad maths in my head and I wouldn't have a problem.

Anyway, I hope you post pictures of your off-the-ground colony when/if you make it.

 

[Miss M]

hehe, I'm just kidding of course

Oh, I knew you were kidding, I was just poking you back!

Still, as logical as the metric system is, I still like standard measurement! :lol:

 

[Zab]

Metric is standard well to me xD

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I was thinking about this set up.. since rabbits and owner are accustomed to ground cage and bedding, would it be possible to have bedding in part of the cages? Let's say the ''arms'' on the U-shape? It would give the rabbits enrichment, soft resting spots and possibility to dig and such. I don't think straw would fall through the floor so it wouldn't really require any extra building.. If rabbits chose it as a potty corner it would of course be pointless and better to remove it. But maybe it's worth a try? I'm just thinking, as I said.. It shouldn't require a lot of extra work as long as they don't chose it as a toilet, right?

Btw, does rabbits on wirefloors chose potty corners (like most on solid floors do) or do thy learn that they can just ''go'' anywhere since it falls through?