Need suggestions - attaching cages to the wall

[Liberator]

I currently have hanging cages but I would like to attach the cages to the wall. I saw a setup in which a type of hanger was used and the cages were simply lifted off and away from the wall. The hangers looked like they were pre-fabricated but I can't seem to find them anywhere. If you have your cages attached to the wall, what are you using? If you are using standard hooks, do you have any problems with the cage wire bending? Any and all suggestions are greatly appreciated.

 

[MamaSheepdog]

In my growout area some of my cages are attached to the "wall" (actually board fencing) but still supported in the front by fencing stakes that they are wired to, as well as being supported by chain at the top (I'm prone to overkill). I used large washers and screwed them into the fencing.

However, if you are planning on removing all other support, I would use something like Simpson Strong Tie Tie Straps. They come in all different lengths and gauges, but I think this one would be best:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Simpson-Stro ... /100375249

It is 16" long, so if your building follows the standard code of placing studs at 16" on center, you would have two secure points of attachment.

 

[Schipperkesue]

I use screw eyes on the wall, 'S' hooks to hang, and I run a 2x4 under the cage back bottom nailed to the wall so the cage can rest on it. In my very deep cages I also support the fronts with 2x4 legs. The deep ones are over 3' deep though. Shallow cages should be fine with hooks on top and boards beneath.

 

[Liberator]

In my growout area some of my cages are attached to the "wall" (actually board fencing) but still supported in the front by fencing stakes that they are wired to, as well as being supported by chain at the top (I'm prone to overkill). I used large washers and screwed them into the fencing.

However, if you are planning on removing all other support, I would use something like Simpson Strong Tie Tie Straps. They come in all different lengths and gauges, but I think this one would be best:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Simpson-Stro ... /100375249

It is 16" long, so if your building follows the standard code of placing studs at 16" on center, you would have two secure points of attachment.

Thank you. I'm having trouble envisioning how the strap would allow for easy removal and replacement of the cages. <br /><br /> -- Mon Feb 23, 2015 6:13 pm -- <br /><br />

I use screw eyes on the wall, 'S' hooks to hang, and I run a 2x4 under the cage back bottom nailed to the wall so the cage can rest on it. In my very deep cages I also support the fronts with 2x4 legs. The deep ones are over 3' deep though. Shallow cages should be fine with hooks on top and boards beneath.

How many screw eyes do you use per cage? Do you notice any excessive cage deformation? This is the solution I'm looking for. Something as simple as lifting the cage up and away from the wall. I would like to refrain from using any other support except the hooks. Trying to make moving around cages as easy as possible on the back! I'm tired of reaching for chains with one hand and holding up the cage with the other all while the rabbit is bouncing around, shifting my balance. I've considered getting a video of the chaos so I can laugh at myself!

 

[SuburbanHomesteader]

I have pens that are hung from hooks. To remove the pen, we simply lift on the front and unhook it.

Two sizes of pens: 24 deep by 36 wide - divided in half for two single rabbits. Weight of rabbits probably gets to 20 pounds or a little more. The other pens are 24 deep by 48 wide - they are grow out pens that I've had up to 30 or 40 pounds of rabbits in before they got moved.

The hooks (4 for the 36" pens and 5 for the 48" pens) hook into the very top wire of the 18" high pens. That corner is reinforced with heavy wire - I straighten out and re-use the wires used for political campaign signs. Haven't had any bending or buckling of pens and it sure makes it easy to move things around or take them out and power wash them.

Since the hooks allow the pen to be an inch or so away from the wall, there needs to be some kind of spacer about 12" down so that the pen will hang somewhat close to level. And I'm presuming you're using 14-guage wire pens.

Because of the angle that you need to raise the front of the pen to unhook it, I've always removed the rabbit(s). I'm pretty satisfied with how things are arranged so usually I'm just taking them down for cleaning.

 

[MamaSheepdog]

I'm having trouble envisioning how the strap would allow for easy removal and replacement of the cages.

I don't move my cages around much once they are in place. If you were to move them, you would need to unscrew the plate.

I'm tired of reaching for chains with one hand and holding up the cage with the other all while the rabbit is bouncing around, shifting my balance.

For the sake of your back and the rabbit, I would highly recommend taking the time to remove the rabbit to a safe area before moving the cage itself. If the rabbit panics it may hurt itself or cause you to lose your balance and fall and injure yourself, the rabbit, and likely the cage as well. Triple whammy. :x

 

[Schipperkesue]

I use screw eyes on the wall, 'S' hooks to hang, and I run a 2x4 under the cage back bottom nailed to the wall so the cage can rest on it. In my very deep cages I also support the fronts with 2x4 legs. The deep ones are over 3' deep though. Shallow cages should be fine with hooks on top and boards beneath.

How many screw eyes do you use per cage? Do you notice any excessive cage deformation? This is the solution I'm looking for. Something as simple as lifting the cage up and away from the wall. I would like to refrain from using any other support except the hooks. Trying to make moving around cages as easy as possible on the back! I'm tired of reaching for chains with one hand and holding up the cage with the other all while the rabbit is bouncing around, shifting my balance. I've considered getting a video of the chaos so I can laugh at myself!

I should take a picture. My wall cages are old fox farm cages. I figure if they will keep a fox in, they will keep a fox out, right? They are 3'x3'x4' deep. Heavy. I have 2 screw eyes per cage. There was some minor distortion but they are large and heavy and stick out from the wall 4'! When I put the 2x4 legs under the front there was no distortion and they are very solid. I have a bank of 6 and each holds a Flemish Giant. Mine are located outside on the south side of a barn. They have a heavy tarp covering them to protect from snow, sun and rain.

I think if you have a heavy gauge wire cage and they are no more than 2' deep and you run a 2x4 to support the bottom edge against the wall you should be good. You could also set up a row of screw hooks instead of screw eyes for easy rearrangement of cages.