Looking into meat rabbits....

[Mary Ann's Rabbitry]

Regardless of the cost of the meat, there is great satisfaction in knowing that the food on your table was loved in life and well cared for until the end... and they sure do make a fine meal!

so true.

 

[Miss M]

Thanks guys! I think that I prooobably have enough evidence to prove that it is worth it! What do y'all think?

Absolutely! :razz: But let me add one more fact:

Rabbits were very commonly kept in backyard hutches during the Depression, and fed on scraps and yard clippings. Not an ideal diet for rabbits (we don't have stats on exactly how well the rabbits did on it), but the meat kept many people from starvation during those times.

So if they were kept by people who were nearly penniless back then, chances are they'll be cost-effective now, too. And they are, even raised completely on purchased feed. If you have some yard space, you can reduce (or eliminate, if you have enough space) your feed bill by feeding an assortment of weeds. Many of us actually PLANT weeds for our rabbits! :razz:

Fair warning, you are probably already infected with Rabbitosis Aquireosis, a nonterminal incurable disease that can only be managed. You're best hope for comfortable survival is to infect your family as well. :lol:

:lol: Yep!<br /><br />__________ Wed Nov 28, 2012 11:06 am __________<br /><br />Another thing -- I don't know what sort of place you live in, urban, suburban, rural -- but if you live in the city or near it, the fact that rabbits are very quiet is a big plus!

 

[yankee'n'moxie]

I think you're right and we're looking forward to seeing what breed(s) you choose to bring home.
Fair warning, you are probably already infected with Rabbitosis Aquireosis, a nonterminal incurable disease that can only be managed. You're best hope for comfortable survival is to infect your family as well. :lol:

I'm thinking that if I do this I will probably end up with the "normal" meat breeds (Californian or NZ)... Just because the other ones are so much more expensive around here.

I would suggest having additional growout cages. You will probably be sending the kits to Freezer Camp between 8 and ten weeks. You can breed most does pretty intensively- some do an immediate breed back once the doe has kindled, some wait 2-4 weeks. Say you wait until 4 weeks- you will have another litter due when the current litter is 8 weeks old. If you have superior stock, they may be ready for FC then, but most likely they wont be quite up to weight yet.

One of the things that hasn't been mentioned is the sheer joy of having the rabbits themselves. They are my favorite edible livestock animal by far. (We have chickens, goats, and not-for-consumption-horses. Our steer and several pigs are on an extended holiday at Freezer Camp.)

That is a good thought... On the cages. Maybe I will keep extras around, but i would like to keep the does in grow out size cages so that I don't have to move them around too much (stressing them out). Is that an okay thought, or is there something that I am overlooking?

I love taking care of animals too! I have 2 horses, a bazillion chickens (lost count awhile ago, LOL), a dog, 2 cats, and a rabbit (was supposed to be a pet, but mom is allergic, now I can't eat him).

Rabbits were very commonly kept in backyard hutches during the Depression, and fed on scraps and yard clippings. Not an ideal diet for rabbits (we don't have stats on exactly how well the rabbits did on it), but the meat kept many people from starvation during those times.

So if they were kept by people who were nearly penniless back then, chances are they'll be cost-effective now, too. And they are, even raised completely on purchased feed. If you have some yard space, you can reduce (or eliminate, if you have enough space) your feed bill by feeding an assortment of weeds. Many of us actually PLANT weeds for our rabbits! :razz:

Thanks! I try to let Leo (the pet bunny) out into an exercise pen every now and then for some greens. Maybe I could do that with the meaties?

 

[MamaSheepdog]

i would like to keep the does in grow out size cages so that I don't have to move them around too much (stressing them out). Is that an okay thought, or is there something that I am overlooking?

Keeping the does in large cages is great. They will appreciate the extra room. However, it is the stress level of the kits that you need to be the most concerned about. It is preferable to move the doe and leave the kits in place. The stress of a move can contribute to "weaning enteritis" which causes diarrhea and sometimes death. You could simply move the doe into another large cage.

I have large growout pens and my doe cages are only 30" x 30", so I move the doe and the litter to the growout cage and then remove the doe after a couple of days. Sometimes they stay in quite a bit longer, depending on availability of cages though.

I try to let Leo (the pet bunny) out into an exercise pen every now and then for some greens. Maybe I could do that with the meaties?

Many of us feed fresh weeds and greens to our rabbits. I gather them and bring them to the rabbits. Putting rabbits on the ground exposes them to parasites and I prefer to avoid that.

Here is a list of safe plants that you can feed:

safe-plants-for-rabbits-list-t55.html

There is a wealth of information in the Natural Feeding for Rabbits forum, if you wish to add variety to your rabbits diet.

 

[Miss M]

I move the kits, rather than moving the does, myself. I haven't had any problems with it, but others have. There is no right or wrong in either arrangement, only different sets of advantages and disadvantages.

MSD is right, there are a number of people who have their rabbits on the ground, whether in rabbit tractors, runs, or colonies. Rabbits love it, as long as you can keep them well secure, but with it comes an increased risk of parasites. Again, no right or wrong, just different sets of advantages and disadvantages.

 

[yankee'n'moxie]

Thanks you two! This is such a learning process!

Another question: Would I be able to put out enough babies to feed my family with 4 does and a buck? Or would I need more? My thought was that I could breed 2 at a time (on a rotation), so that if one rejects kits, I can foster them to the other... any thoughts on that practice?

 

[MamaSheepdog]

I move the kits, rather than moving the does, myself.

I used to do that too, and never had any problems.

Would I be able to put out enough babies to feed my family with 4 does and a buck?

The breeds you are looking at generally have large litters, but to be conservative, let's say you average 10 kits between two does each month. So that would be 2 1/2 rabbits per week, but probably more. Some does will not be able to keep their condition constantly raising litters, so they will need an occasional break.

I have a family of five (10y/o, 14 y/o, almost 16 y/o) and one rabbit provides dinner and leftovers depending on the size at butcher.

My thought was that I could breed 2 at a time (on a rotation), so that if one rejects kits, I can foster them to the other... any thoughts on that practice?

That's a good plan. Most of us do the same thing. You might have trouble synchronizing their cycles though. When I started out I could never get my two does bred at the same time.

I would recommend having two bucks if you can. That way you can have two buck lines, but not only that, you will have a backup buck in case one dies.

 

[yankee'n'moxie]

Thanks for all of you guy's help!

Thought of another question: Without over-working the doe (but using her full ability at the same time), how many litters can she produce per year? (it is about a month for pregnancy, and how long until weaning?) Thanks!

ETA: What is the *average* litter size for Cali's and NZ's?

 

[jollysrabbits]

average litter size 8-12

most rabbits wean between 4-8 weeks (you should easily be able to get 4 litters per doe per year)
If you want to breed a little more aggressively you can get 5-6 by breeding the does back a couple of weeks before her current kits are weaned (this will take a toll on your doe after a while)

 

[yankee'n'moxie]

Thank you!

And how big should grow out cages be? I have read so much varying answers to this question... What is best for mama and kits?

 

[jollysrabbits]

mine are 30x36 for breeding does. then i have 3 raised pens for litters that are "growing out" they are 36x40 but you could go smaller it depends how long you plan on keeping them. another great idea (yes patting myself on the back) I had is dividers for the grow cage to separate my 3 pens into 6 they are just wire with a wood frame that i clip inside the cages in case i need more pens and less space.

 

[yankee'n'moxie]

So, you use 30 x 36 until the kits are born and then move mom and kits to the grow out cages? Or do you just put the kits into the grow out cage when you wean them?

 

[ollitos]

I leave my kits with their dam until their are weaned. Then they are moved to grow out pens. The does never leave their homes. They are territorial and like knowing that their space is their space.

 

[jollysrabbits]

the cages are big enough I can leave them in with mom for abit after weaning, but usually I just move the kits after they are weaned, it gives mom a break and I can focus on feeding her things to get her back into condition before the next batch (oats,boss,greens) whatever I feel like using at the time.

 

[yankee'n'moxie]

Okay! Thank you!

 

[AnnClaire]

Hi Yankee'n'moxie

I do things just a bit different here. I bring my nest boxes into the house starting the second week ... all day, then return them to the doe overnight. While the kits are in the house, I put them in a laundry basket lined with a couple of towels and as I go past I will stroke and pet the kits. I also start sprinkling oats, pellets and fresh forage in the basket. By the first of the 3rd week, I keep the kits in the house all day and all night, taking them to the doe for feeding 2x per day. By the beginning of the 4th week, I am weaning the larger kits and only taking smaller kits out with everyone weaned by the end of the week. Since I usually breed back my does at the end of the first week after kindling, they now have a full week without nursing.

After the kits are weaned, I keep them in a cardboard corral in the house for further socializing ... lots of handling, exposure to noises, activity, etc. as I also sell some kits as pets ... want them as "bomb proof" as possible! During the day, they go out to a runout pen (seperate from the does.) By the end of the 5th week, they are generally old enough to hold their own with older growout kits in that runout pen during the day. By the end of the 6th week, they are weaned enough to go into the runout pen with the does (who have kindled their next litter by now.)

Whatever works for you is just how you should be doing it, but there are different ways that produce excellent results. I have only had 2 deaths from weaning enteritis, one of which was caused by a kit getting chilled, the other we never found an answer for. You will also lose kits to injuries ... we have lost 2 to broken neck/back ... those little kits will bash right into each other head on as they are learning how to hop, or into the side of the corral/cage ... it is sad, but the more involved you are in their daily lives, the better the outcome IMHO.

 

[TerriG]

We have 4 does and 2 bucks. We are breeding 2 does at a time for exactly the reasons you stated. We aren't getting the litter sizes right now that we expected. We are getting 5-6 kits per litter.

Our cages are 24"x30" (we have 3 this size) for our bucks and an extra cage, 24"x36" (we have 4 like this) plus a den (totals out to 48"ish) for our does, and 24"x48" (we have 4 finished and 2 more that I need to finish) for our grow out cages. Our cages are 2 high and we keep all of our stock on the upper level b/c it is easier for us to interact with them. Our grow out cages are on the lower level. We don't interact *quite* as much with them and this seems to make it easier for us when it comes time to butcher.

I still need to make a shelf unit to store our feed and hay and have a flat surface for working with animals or nesting boxes. I am also thinking about having a 5 gallon water container with a spigot to refill water bottles. We don't have running water in the rabbitry right now. This is all in a 10'x15' space. I am amazed that it can be done in such a small space!

 

[yankee'n'moxie]

Thank you both for all the details! I really appreciate the varying opinions!

 

[Dood]

I have a 10 by 20 barn with a concrete floor for the buns. One half has entirely wire walls with a 2x3 shelter that I use for the weaned kits. The other half has 2x3 cages for my breeders and replacement does. I already have a 2006 New Zealand buck as a pet and I cross him to my purebed American Chinchilla does for meat. I decided on the American Chinchilla because i like the look of them and wanted to preserve a rare breed. I purchased 3 does and a buck. One of my does is a fantastic producer-she consistently has 12 to 10 kits per litter and always has a tonne of milk. My other doe has been less fruitful - only 2 to 6 kits - and I will be replacing her once I have a doe old enough. The 3rd doe is very well bred, her sire has 3 ARBA legs and her dam 4. She has just had her first breeding and I have high expectations for her kits in the show ring, hopefully she is fertile as well, but she will be a keeper regardless.

 

[yankee'n'moxie]

Thank you!