Just getting started

[OneAcreFarm]

I just want to add in my $0.02 real quick, I am on a couple of forums regarding rabbits and I am not pointing fingers here or anywhere else in particular but it seems like there is a lot "Flemish bashing" on so many sites and most places I read the same thing (big bones, eat a lot, etc.) this is reason we have "heritage breeds" now! We will use the American blue as a perfect example. NZW's literally almost killed off the American. the Americans were the top rabbits from about 1920-1950 and then all the sudden everybody wanted NZW because they were more economical/fur color(even though there is a white strain. Having raised both I gotta say the difference in feed is not that big, but i will admit it would be noticeable on a very large scale (commercial rabbitry) you would definitely notice the feed ration but for backyard Come on.... My Purebred 18.5lb Flemish only eats about 6oz of food a day, a little more in the winter. Flemish were bred for meat and ARE a meat rabbit, the only thing that has changed are the more economical choices in "commercial breeds" NZW,Cali,Champagne,SF and so on. I also want to add if you do go with the Flemish you will most likely get very large litters, they average 12 or more per litter. My lines average between 13-16 per litter. Rant over. again this is not pointed at anybody just wanted to get some thinking wheel turning. the NZW/Flemish is a nice mix as well. Welcome Rabbitguy

Thank you, Jollys. It is always good to hear lots of different perspectives when looking to make an informed decision!

 

[rabbitguy]

I just want to add in my $0.02 real quick, I am on a couple of forums regarding rabbits and I am not pointing fingers here or anywhere else in particular but it seems like there is a lot "Flemish bashing" on so many sites and most places I read the same thing (big bones, eat a lot, etc.) this is reason we have "heritage breeds" now! We will use the American blue as a perfect example. NZW's literally almost killed off the American. the Americans were the top rabbits from about 1920-1950 and then all the sudden everybody wanted NZW because they were more economical/fur color(even though there is a white strain. Having raised both I gotta say the difference in feed is not that big, but i will admit it would be noticeable on a very large scale (commercial rabbitry) you would definitely notice the feed ration but for backyard Come on.... My Purebred 18.5lb Flemish only eats about 6oz of food a day, a little more in the winter. Flemish were bred for meat and ARE a meat rabbit, the only thing that has changed are the more economical choices in "commercial breeds" NZW,Cali,Champagne,SF and so on. I also want to add if you do go with the Flemish you will most likely get very large litters, they average 12 or more per litter. My lines average between 13-16 per litter. Rant over. again this is not pointed at anybody just wanted to get some thinking wheel turning. the NZW/Flemish is a nice mix as well. Welcome Rabbitguy

Thanks. I was thinking about having the cage raised off of the ground because of the lab puppy that we have. I will move the rabbits out onto the ground in a small caged area when i have time each day. Would it be wrong to keep the rabbits in the cages for their whole lives. I am not going to do that, but i see people who do this. It makes more sense to give the Doe and babies more room than the single Buck. I am buying a circular saw today. I think it will be best to write down all of the measurements before starting any building.

 

[MamaSheepdog]

Would it be wrong to keep the rabbits in the cages for their whole lives.

Many of us do just that.

Someone mentioned on a different thread that she had one rabbit in a very large cage and another in a standard sized cage, and there seemed to be no difference in their activity levels or overall "happiness".

In the novel Life of Pi, the author Yann Martel puts it succinctly- the enclosure an animal is kept in becomes its compressed territory. As long as its needs are met- a place to rest, to groom, to defecate, to feed- it will be content.

 

[jollysrabbits]

I agree with MSD, majority of us keep our rabbits in cages.

 

[rabbitguy]

Ok i have decided to build a 7ft long cage that is 6 ft wide. Ill give the mother and her babies 4 feet of room(wide) and the buck 2 feet.

Would it be wrong to keep the rabbits in the cages for their whole lives.

Many of us do just that.

Someone mentioned on a different thread that she had one rabbit in a very large cage and another in a standard sized cage, and there seemed to be no difference in their activity levels or overall "happiness".

In the novel Life of Pi, the author Yann Martel puts it succinctly- the enclosure an animal is kept in becomes its compressed territory. As long as its needs are met- a place to rest, to groom, to defecate, to feed- it will be content.

 

[nicnmike]

Ok i have decided to build a 7ft long cage that is 6 ft wide. Ill give the mother and her babies 4 feet of room(wide) and the buck 2 feet.

Welcome!

So, the dimensions for the doe's side will be 4x6 and the buck 3x6? the only issue I see is it will be hard to reach in and catch them. My cages are 30" deep and it's a little difficult for me to reach them at times and I'm 6'2"!

I have 3 does and more meat than I know what to do with! I freeze most of mine and it seems to have very little affect on the quality.

Many of us have hanging wire cages with little or no wood used because urine concerns. Here's my backyard set up, minus the addition to the right for another grow out cage:

 

[starshotbandit]

if you r looking for them being comfortabul then the general rule is 1ft per lb of doe weight,I know its a big cage I have a 36"X36" and that = 7.5sf fo floor space I know pro gorwers use much smaller cages The rest of mine r 42"X30" and I have cals. and new zelands. I do like them to have a little room as I dont alwas get to let them out. But thats just me.

 

[Dood]

the general rule is 1ft per lb of doe weight

I have never heard of this general rule and think it is quite excessive. This would mean one of my 12 pound does would need a 24 x 72 cage!!!

Each jurisdiction has it's own legal requirements for buck, doe and grow out cages. Here it is a bit less than 7 square feet for a a commercial (about 12 pounds) breeding doe.

 

[GBov]

Rather than having the cages rest on the rebar (which will cause a collection point for urine, feces, and fur), would it be possible for you to have him build the racks taller so you can hang the cages? I am considering having something similar made, but plan to thread the support metal through the top of the cages to give full linear support. The ends would rest in channels on top of the support posts.

Inspired!

I LOVE this place!

And welcome Rabbitguy

Have you thought of meat mutts? Just three cheap mid sized rabbits off of Craigs list to learn with and then get some good stock in a year or two.

We did that and I am so GLAD we did! The learning curve is steep with any livestock but with mutts its heaps less stressful. When we started with goats we went with pure bred expensive stock and it made teh entire experience one long stressful nightmare that we were glad to wake up from.

Has anyone warned you that rabbits are addictive and that you should make three times the number of cages you expect to need?

And have you thought of setting up a colony instead of cages? Or two walk in sized cages for you two does and a nice comfortable cage for you buck and he can "visit" the does for a week or two?

One of the things I love best about rabbits is they are so flexible as to what they can, and will, happily live in.