MamaSheepdog
Well-known member
PistolPackingMomma":2zgfn5zc said:
Hubs bought me a piece of jewelry for Christmas
... a tactical bracelet made of paracord! :lol: Not that I'm so special- the whole family got one!
Intro and Questions (Long, sorry!)
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Hubs bought me a piece of jewelry for Christmas
... a tactical bracelet made of paracord! :lol: Not that I'm so special- the whole family got one!
PistolPackingMomma
Well-known member
Kyle@theHeathertoft":8fjyc5qo said:
FW meaning Florida White? As I understand it, they are like cute little bricks of meat.
Yeah, Florida Whites. I haven't researched them, but read that Silver Foxes dress out at about 65%, and have very docile personalities, which is why I'm leaning towards them. I have two kids, and am not keen on moody animals.
__________ Sun Feb 10, 2013 12:17 pm __________
MamaSheepdog":8fjyc5qo said:PistolPackingMomma":8fjyc5qo said:
Hubs bought me a piece of jewelry for Christmas
Not that I'm so special- the whole family got one!
That's the best kind, and probably the only sort I'd wear, lol! Sounds like you got a keeper!
I can't think of any link to the deep litter method.. perhaps you could search ''deep bedding'' or ''permanent bedding'' for horses? It's the same basics.
When I had jumping rabbits 12 years ago I found that straw was great. I kept some 5" of straw in their cages, changed it when it was getting wet and put new straw on top of the poop-corner when it was more berries than straw shoing there (about once a day). The outdoor hutcher were of wood with three solid walls and one netted door - the custom here.
However in the plastic bottomed ''indoor'' cage I have now (use it for quarantine and atm I keep a doe in it to protect her expected litter from rats if they would come into the pen) I feel that straw needs to be changed too often. But if I have 2" of shavings in the bottom and 1-2" of straw on top, it's good. Depending on the size of the cage - mine is 150cm x 70 cm and I had two young rabbits in it before) I cleaned it once or perhaps twice in a week. It was not smelly at that time (it was outside in a well ventilated garage though) nor was the top layer wet. I changed half of the bedding and pushed the other half into the potty corner, then placed fresh bedding where it had been most clean before.
The method is simple; put enough bedding in and it will soak up the urine and keep it locked up beneth a layer of fresh straw.
I know a rabbit keeper who only cleans his pens every 3d month; but he has really deep bedding and keeps filling up with fresh straw on top. When he cleans, the bottom layer is composted.. it won't smell untill you puncture the top layer. Same as with horses. If it starts to smell or their paws get dity, it's not right :lol: Usually means there's not enough bedding.. it's better to really add a lot to start with and less to fill up.
However - if you're going to do a real deep bedding method, remember that you need taller cages. Rabbits need to be able to stand on their hindles and stretch their backs.
When I had jumping rabbits 12 years ago I found that straw was great. I kept some 5" of straw in their cages, changed it when it was getting wet and put new straw on top of the poop-corner when it was more berries than straw shoing there (about once a day). The outdoor hutcher were of wood with three solid walls and one netted door - the custom here.
However in the plastic bottomed ''indoor'' cage I have now (use it for quarantine and atm I keep a doe in it to protect her expected litter from rats if they would come into the pen) I feel that straw needs to be changed too often. But if I have 2" of shavings in the bottom and 1-2" of straw on top, it's good. Depending on the size of the cage - mine is 150cm x 70 cm and I had two young rabbits in it before) I cleaned it once or perhaps twice in a week. It was not smelly at that time (it was outside in a well ventilated garage though) nor was the top layer wet. I changed half of the bedding and pushed the other half into the potty corner, then placed fresh bedding where it had been most clean before.
The method is simple; put enough bedding in and it will soak up the urine and keep it locked up beneth a layer of fresh straw.
I know a rabbit keeper who only cleans his pens every 3d month; but he has really deep bedding and keeps filling up with fresh straw on top. When he cleans, the bottom layer is composted.. it won't smell untill you puncture the top layer. Same as with horses. If it starts to smell or their paws get dity, it's not right :lol: Usually means there's not enough bedding.. it's better to really add a lot to start with and less to fill up.
However - if you're going to do a real deep bedding method, remember that you need taller cages. Rabbits need to be able to stand on their hindles and stretch their backs.
After a LOT of research, we went with the Silver Fox as well. Prior to the development of the FW's and the Calis and NZ commercial breeds, the SF were one of the main meat breeds...but they're black and lots of places want the white fur. According to what I found, the SF dress out well, and grow well too. They are excellent mothers and generally have easy going personalities. Our 3 are still a bit skittish but not mean, although the buck did give me a little nip once...just a little tug is all. I'd been holding him for quite a while and I think he was telling me that enough was enough, LOL. They were harder to find than the commercial breeds, but we found 2 breeders at a local show, so that worked out well...the buck was $40 and the does $35 each. They will be our breeding stock for quite a while. The other big factor for me was that they're a Heritage Breed, and I like to think we're contributing to its continued existence Next on my wish list is a couple of American Blues...they're almost endangered and are the other breed developed here in the US...the first one, actually.
Not sure what the J feeders would cost in your area...I'd suggest checking out Klubertanz's site for prices. It's not the easiest site to navigate but it can be done...plus they'll send you a paper catalog for free..we got ours within 2 weeks of ordering. We went with the H series...we don't want to stack them (well, unless we run out of room in the rabbitry, LOL) so we didn't need the trays and such. We're very pleased with the quality...heavy 14 gauge wire, GAW...I'm thinking it'll last for years! K also has a "deal" where you can get a percentage (I forget what it is) off if you order $400 or more. I didn't have quite that much saved up so couldn't take advantage of it. The cages come in flat boxes, unassembled. It's a simple matter to attach all the sides, tops and bottoms, but I suggest you also invest in a pair of J clip pliers...they were about $15, I think but it's a good investment...we'll have them forever and they make it SO much easier!
Just now, I'm not weighing or measuring their food too much; they're still growing so we're not too concerned, as long as they aren't too fat or too thin. When they're closer to maturity we'll be more careful about it. I think I read here on RT somewhere that a good ratio to start is 1 oz per lb of weight...I hope the others will correct me if I'm wrong. Just now they each get 1/2 of grains twice a day, all the grass they can eat and a good handful of alfalfa twice a day. They also get plenty of treats...whatever greens we have available, a 1 to 2 inch chunk of carrot, a small slice of apple, pumpkin seeds, willow and apple twigs/branches. I think they'd had nothing but pellets before they came home with us, so they sniff everything cautiously...and they each have their own likes and dislikes.
When we got our chickens, we put the "chickens before the coop" and had them in temp housing for a couple weeks while Dave built the coop. When we decided to do rabbits, I swore we'd have the cages first but...it didn't work out that way. For about a week we had them in a mish mosh of pet carriers, but the same day the cages arrived, Dave put two of 'em together in just an hour or so and they got moved. Since they're still in the house till the rabbitry is done, we put the two girls in the same cage; they're not quite half grown yet and are full sisters, so they don't mind sharing. When they go outside, they'll get their own places. Honda (the buck) will be kept very much separated..with a piece of something between adjoining cages...I've heard horror stories of them managing to mate thru the wire! We intend to control breeding; hope to breed late winter/early spring twice and then again late/fall...don't want them having to kindle or raise kits during the heat of summer or the very cold of winter. We'll see how it goes, but that's the plan anyway, LOL
Next on my wish list is a couple of American Blues...they're almost endangered and are the other breed developed here in the US...the first one, actually.Not sure what the J feeders would cost in your area...I'd suggest checking out Klubertanz's site for prices. It's not the easiest site to navigate but it can be done...plus they'll send you a paper catalog for free..we got ours within 2 weeks of ordering. We went with the H series...we don't want to stack them (well, unless we run out of room in the rabbitry, LOL) so we didn't need the trays and such. We're very pleased with the quality...heavy 14 gauge wire, GAW...I'm thinking it'll last for years! K also has a "deal" where you can get a percentage (I forget what it is) off if you order $400 or more. I didn't have quite that much saved up so couldn't take advantage of it. The cages come in flat boxes, unassembled. It's a simple matter to attach all the sides, tops and bottoms, but I suggest you also invest in a pair of J clip pliers...they were about $15, I think but it's a good investment...we'll have them forever and they make it SO much easier!
Just now, I'm not weighing or measuring their food too much; they're still growing so we're not too concerned, as long as they aren't too fat or too thin. When they're closer to maturity we'll be more careful about it. I think I read here on RT somewhere that a good ratio to start is 1 oz per lb of weight...I hope the others will correct me if I'm wrong. Just now they each get 1/2 of grains twice a day, all the grass they can eat and a good handful of alfalfa twice a day. They also get plenty of treats...whatever greens we have available, a 1 to 2 inch chunk of carrot, a small slice of apple, pumpkin seeds, willow and apple twigs/branches. I think they'd had nothing but pellets before they came home with us, so they sniff everything cautiously...and they each have their own likes and dislikes.
When we got our chickens, we put the "chickens before the coop" and had them in temp housing for a couple weeks while Dave built the coop. When we decided to do rabbits, I swore we'd have the cages first but...it didn't work out that way. For about a week we had them in a mish mosh of pet carriers, but the same day the cages arrived, Dave put two of 'em together in just an hour or so and they got moved. Since they're still in the house till the rabbitry is done, we put the two girls in the same cage; they're not quite half grown yet and are full sisters, so they don't mind sharing. When they go outside, they'll get their own places. Honda (the buck) will be kept very much separated..with a piece of something between adjoining cages...I've heard horror stories of them managing to mate thru the wire! We intend to control breeding; hope to breed late winter/early spring twice and then again late/fall...don't want them having to kindle or raise kits during the heat of summer or the very cold of winter. We'll see how it goes, but that's the plan anyway, LOL
UK-backyardbunnies
Well-known member
Hello
No pistols here, but I've got an air rifle, does that count?
I'm new to the game as well - it took a while for me to decide that instead of hanging around for the best time, I should just get on and "practise" things. And if the worst comes to the worst I just eat the lot of them :O
A few thoughts - in terms of pretty waterproofing, how about something like these http://www.wipeeasytablecloths.com/all- ... signs.html ?
Or instead of cages you could try European style hutches (if they are sold over there?) a bit like these http://www.happyhutch.co.uk/indoor-rabbit-hutches/78
The "normal pet rabbit" over here is in a wooden hutch with a couple of inches of shavings then handfuls of straw, cleaned out every day or two.
My lot are in a set of pens in an old building outside, the shavings are waaay too deep but I just say I'm doing deep litter
No pistols here, but I've got an air rifle, does that count?
I'm new to the game as well - it took a while for me to decide that instead of hanging around for the best time, I should just get on and "practise" things. And if the worst comes to the worst I just eat the lot of them :O
A few thoughts - in terms of pretty waterproofing, how about something like these http://www.wipeeasytablecloths.com/all- ... signs.html ?
Or instead of cages you could try European style hutches (if they are sold over there?) a bit like these http://www.happyhutch.co.uk/indoor-rabbit-hutches/78
The "normal pet rabbit" over here is in a wooden hutch with a couple of inches of shavings then handfuls of straw, cleaned out every day or two.
My lot are in a set of pens in an old building outside, the shavings are waaay too deep but I just say I'm doing deep litter
PistolPackingMomma
Well-known member
Thanks for all the tips, y'all!
I'm thinking of ordering the "H" series from Klubertanz, 24x24x18, two with baby saver sides for the doe cages, and three without, since the weaned kits and the buck won't need the baby savers, right?
Are those dimensions enough room for each litter? Do you keep your rabbits in their cages pretty much all the time or put them in a run/playpen/etc for exercise/space? (I'm having a hard time imagining 8-11 buns in a 2'x2' box nonstop, but I'm not a rabbit, and have much to learn.)
Would that cage size work for deep litter method, if I don't have anything to hang the cages from?
UK-BackyardBunnies; pretty much anything that goes bang counts with me! I love those hutches you posted; too bad shipping to the USA would probably cost more than the hutches though!
Again, thanks everyone for the help! Going over the K catalog tonight with my hubby; *fingers crossed*
I'm thinking of ordering the "H" series from Klubertanz, 24x24x18, two with baby saver sides for the doe cages, and three without, since the weaned kits and the buck won't need the baby savers, right?
Are those dimensions enough room for each litter? Do you keep your rabbits in their cages pretty much all the time or put them in a run/playpen/etc for exercise/space? (I'm having a hard time imagining 8-11 buns in a 2'x2' box nonstop, but I'm not a rabbit, and have much to learn.)
Would that cage size work for deep litter method, if I don't have anything to hang the cages from?
UK-BackyardBunnies; pretty much anything that goes bang counts with me!
I love those hutches you posted; too bad shipping to the USA would probably cost more than the hutches though!Again, thanks everyone for the help! Going over the K catalog tonight with my hubby; *fingers crossed*
MamaSheepdog
Well-known member
I keep my Rex bucks in 24" x 24" cages, the does in 24" x 30". I would like the doe's cages to be a bit bigger, but they are adequate.
Luvmykiddos
Member
ladysown":26sikxfo said:
Good idea! But would that be cost effective in the long run?
PistolPackinMomma, I'm a pistol packin' Mama, too!
I relate so much to your enthusiasm and end goals when I first got started! I'll be watching how your story unfolds, too!
We have rabbits in our garage to keep them on the down low. We don't live in an HOA and we're allowed to have them in our city, but I choose to keep them in the garage for several reasons. My hubs needs me to give him a hand here, but I'll try to respond later tonight or tomorrow with my set up, along with some links to all the products I bought. I have developed a few strong opinions along the way! I also have some experience with litter to keep the smell down. I'm not an expert on rabbits, but I've definitely learned a thing or two about keeping them indoors!
For now, I just wanted to chime in to encourage you on your adventure!
PistolPackingMomma
Well-known member
Are Rexs' comparable in size to SF? (the last rabbit I've handled in the past ten years was a very small Lion's Head (?). Was only a pound or two bigger than a kitten.)<br /><br />__________ Sun Feb 10, 2013 6:26 pm __________<br /><br />
Okay, I officially love rabbit folks!!! :lol: Guns and bunnies must go with the territory, lol. What do you carry?
Thanks for the encouragement; I look forward to hearing your story!!! I did wonder about keeping rabbits in the garage, but ours isn't heated, and I'm sure since we'll have strangers traipsing through our house, they might think I was being cruel and call some AR organization on me. :x
Luvmykiddos":225mr5ca said:ladysown":225mr5ca said:
Good idea! But would that be cost effective in the long run?
PistolPackinMomma, I'm a pistol packin' Mama, too!
Okay, I officially love rabbit folks!!! :lol: Guns and bunnies must go with the territory, lol. What do you carry?
I relate so much to your enthusiasm and end goals when I first got started! I'll be watching how your story unfolds, too!
We have rabbits in our garage to keep them on the down low. We don't live in an HOA and we're allowed to have them in our city, but I choose to keep them in the garage for several reasons. My hubs needs me to give him a hand here, but I'll try to respond later tonight or tomorrow with my set up, along with some links to all the products I bought. I have developed a few strong opinions along the way! I also have some experience with litter to keep the smell down. I'm not an expert on rabbits, but I've definitely learned a thing or two about keeping them indoors!
For now, I just wanted to chime in to encourage you on your adventure!
Thanks for the encouragement; I look forward to hearing your story!!! I did wonder about keeping rabbits in the garage, but ours isn't heated, and I'm sure since we'll have strangers traipsing through our house, they might think I was being cruel and call some AR organization on me. :x
MamaSheepdog
Well-known member
PistolPackingMomma":1xc41v7t said:
I can't find my SOP at the moment, but did a quick internet search. Silver Fox are bigger than Rex by a couple of pounds, so I would definitely go with larger cages. Maybe 30" x 30" or even 36".
I do put hanging pots in my cages for the rabbits to rest in so it gives them a bit more living space. I call them BunnyBuckets.
PistolPackingMomma
Well-known member
Oh really? 30x30 or 36? Just for the does or the growing out cages too?
Love the bunny buckets! Momma there looks like she's happy to have a break, lol!!!
Love the bunny buckets! Momma there looks like she's happy to have a break, lol!!!
SF mature at about 10-12 lbs, so they're considered a "large" (not giant) breed. A 30w would probably be enough for a single buck, but since I wanted 36 for the does, I just ordered them all at 36. It'll make measuring and placing them easier if they're all the same size. We have our does in one cage now; don't have a scale but I guesstimate they're about 70% of their full size, which is about the size we'd be butchering if they weren't our breeding stock. Just watching them interact in that cage, I don't think I'd want more than 1 or possibly two more in it. The breeders, and possibly the kits, will get some time outside in pens in the yard, but will live mostly in their cages. DH had rabbits for his kids years and years ago, and was actually the one who first suggested we avoid any wood at all...he was constantly having to repair the cages they had then due to chewing and the fact that the wood absorbs the urine and no amount of cleaning will get rid of the smell. Plus, wire is infinitely easier to sanitize.
Three of the six cages we ordered are without the baby saver...we'll use them for the buck and as grow outs for the kits once they're weaned away from Mama. When we looked at the price difference between the 24 and the 36, we decided the bit of extra $$ was worth it for the space. Broilers generally go to camp at about 5 lbs live weight, which is usually about 12 to 14 weeks...and even half grown, they're a pretty decent size. LOL, we may be going to eat them, but I want their lives, short tho they'll be, to be comfortable and happy. If I weren't so "vertically challenged", I'd have ordered the 30 x 36, but I don't think I could reach quite that far to "chase" a recalcitrant bunny I'm hoping that if Sadie and Corry start throwing really big litters, it'll be a bit later on so we'll have time to get some more cages in for growing out.
Three of the six cages we ordered are without the baby saver...we'll use them for the buck and as grow outs for the kits once they're weaned away from Mama. When we looked at the price difference between the 24 and the 36, we decided the bit of extra $$ was worth it for the space. Broilers generally go to camp at about 5 lbs live weight, which is usually about 12 to 14 weeks...and even half grown, they're a pretty decent size. LOL, we may be going to eat them, but I want their lives, short tho they'll be, to be comfortable and happy. If I weren't so "vertically challenged", I'd have ordered the 30 x 36, but I don't think I could reach quite that far to "chase" a recalcitrant bunny
I'm hoping that if Sadie and Corry start throwing really big litters, it'll be a bit later on so we'll have time to get some more cages in for growing out.PistolPackingMomma
Well-known member
So 30x36 would be big enough to grow out a litter?
Your advice about just getting cages all the same size for spacing and placing makes a lot of sense. Thank you! I'm glad I've waited to place my cage order so far; I keep changing my mind!!!<br /><br />__________ Mon Feb 11, 2013 9:59 am __________<br /><br />Looked things over with DH last night, and he was a bit in sticker shock over the price of the cages. I did my best to explain what I could, and he seemed to understand; just wasn't thrilled at the cost. I don't have the heart to tell the poor guy how much my future dairy goats are going to cost us, :lol: !
Your advice about just getting cages all the same size for spacing and placing makes a lot of sense. Thank you! I'm glad I've waited to place my cage order so far; I keep changing my mind!!!<br /><br />__________ Mon Feb 11, 2013 9:59 am __________<br /><br />Looked things over with DH last night, and he was a bit in sticker shock over the price of the cages. I did my best to explain what I could, and he seemed to understand; just wasn't thrilled at the cost. I don't have the heart to tell the poor guy how much my future dairy goats are going to cost us, :lol: !
ROFL...it can certainly be pricey, but I still consider myself to be very frugal...IMO, "frugal" isn't getting the cheapest, it's spending your money wisely. For most things of this nature, I consider it an investment, and over the years, I've found that if you are going to have something for a long time, you're better off to spend the money for the quality...otherwise you can end up spending 2 or 3 times as much in little fits and dribbles over the coming years. I use shoes as an example...I have a hard to fit foot, and while I "can" wear some $10 shoes, they hurt after a while so I can't wear them often or long. Makes more sense to me to buy one $100 pair of shoes that will do the job than 10 pairs or $10 shoes I really can't wear much...same investment but way more utility.
We haven't had a litter to grow out yet, so experience will tell on the size. At this point, we'll have 3 cages to use for the purpose and we intend to breed both does at the same time. I think that if we don't have huge litters, 3-24 x 36 should work, especially since we'll only be keeping them till they're about half grown. If their litters get bigger, and I think they usually do, we'll likely need to get more cages. Eventually, I believe we'll need to anyway...besides the SF, I'd like to get some American Blues (another Heritage meat breed that's sort of "endangered"). I really don't see us needing to expand for another year, so in the mean time, I'll be saving up for that little project, LOL
I hear you on the goats! We aren't zoned for them, which really bums me out. I'd been doing a bit of checking into them and had decided if we could, I'd get a couple of Nigerian Dwarfs...small, good milkers and cute as all get out. I saw an ad on our local CL yesterday...they wanted about $150 a piece for 'em! Wow! Still...another "investment"...they were young, but proven and would have done the job for years to come. If you divide that $150 by say 8 years, it comes to about a $20/year investment...not really too bad. But it's that start up that'll give you "sticker shock"
We haven't had a litter to grow out yet, so experience will tell on the size. At this point, we'll have 3 cages to use for the purpose and we intend to breed both does at the same time. I think that if we don't have huge litters, 3-24 x 36 should work, especially since we'll only be keeping them till they're about half grown. If their litters get bigger, and I think they usually do, we'll likely need to get more cages. Eventually, I believe we'll need to anyway...besides the SF, I'd like to get some American Blues (another Heritage meat breed that's sort of "endangered"). I really don't see us needing to expand for another year, so in the mean time, I'll be saving up for that little project, LOL
I hear you on the goats! We aren't zoned for them, which really bums me out. I'd been doing a bit of checking into them and had decided if we could, I'd get a couple of Nigerian Dwarfs...small, good milkers and cute as all get out. I saw an ad on our local CL yesterday...they wanted about $150 a piece for 'em! Wow! Still...another "investment"...they were young, but proven and would have done the job for years to come. If you divide that $150 by say 8 years, it comes to about a $20/year investment...not really too bad. But it's that start up that'll give you "sticker shock"
PistolPackingMomma
Well-known member
Mickey328":hym7kzg2 said:
Goodness, ain't that the truth! I also pointed out to him that about the only thing I ever spend money on is groceries anyways, (last thing I bought was a coffee pot, which I returned; feeling guilty for spending $40 on myself) but this is grocery related, so... :lol:
I appreciate your input! I'm thinking of just taking the plunge, and if it's not enough, I'll get additional cages later down the road.
I hear you on the goats! We aren't zoned for them, which really bums me out. I'd been doing a bit of checking into them and had decided if we could, I'd get a couple of Nigerian Dwarfs...small, good milkers and cute as all get out. I saw an ad on our local CL yesterday...they wanted about $150 a piece for 'em! Wow! Still...another "investment"...they were young, but proven and would have done the job for years to come. If you divide that $150 by say 8 years, it comes to about a $20/year investment...not really too bad. But it's that start up that'll give you "sticker shock"
*Sympathy hugs* I can't have goats or chickens where we live either. Hopefully at our next place though...And yeah, goats can run quite a bit of money! And that's just for the animals, not their housing, feed, fencing, milking equipment, hoof care...but, it IS an investment, and I'm sure if you priced out the milk, cheese and soap you can get from having goats, it can be a significant savings over store bought products.
OneAcreFarm
Well-known member
PPM, welcome to RT! So glad to have another like minded woman here. I carry daily as well. I currently carry a Bersa 380CC but I am saving up for a Cold Defender....I also have a Glock 26, a Bersa 45UC and a Taurus Judge 45/410....
Lots of things to think about when starting. I would definitely suggest getting good quality cages. Have you looked to see if there is another breeder or a small animal equipment place/feed store in your area that also sells cages? Not TSC, those are really cheaply made and won't last. Now, since you will have them inside, they *might* work for a while, if need be. 30 x 36 is what I have for my does, 30 x 30 for grow outs and I just installed some 18 x 30 for individual bucks and keeper rabbits I am growing out. You want the doors to be as large as possible. You *might* be able to find some indoor type housing less expensively on CL, people are always selling those type hutches, etc here....www.bassequipment.com is a great place for supplies, their prices seem a tad better than Klubertanz on some things. FW are great meat rabbits, but I have been told they can be temperamental. Dutch are also great meat rabbits and definitely look like pets, so they may be a option for you, since they are smaller than SF, great personality and will require less space, food, etc. You would likely be able to sell some as well. If you butcher them at 13wks, which is the optimum time for Dutch, the dress out will rival SF.
Lots of things to think about when starting. I would definitely suggest getting good quality cages. Have you looked to see if there is another breeder or a small animal equipment place/feed store in your area that also sells cages? Not TSC, those are really cheaply made and won't last. Now, since you will have them inside, they *might* work for a while, if need be. 30 x 36 is what I have for my does, 30 x 30 for grow outs and I just installed some 18 x 30 for individual bucks and keeper rabbits I am growing out. You want the doors to be as large as possible. You *might* be able to find some indoor type housing less expensively on CL, people are always selling those type hutches, etc here....www.bassequipment.com is a great place for supplies, their prices seem a tad better than Klubertanz on some things. FW are great meat rabbits, but I have been told they can be temperamental. Dutch are also great meat rabbits and definitely look like pets, so they may be a option for you, since they are smaller than SF, great personality and will require less space, food, etc. You would likely be able to sell some as well. If you butcher them at 13wks, which is the optimum time for Dutch, the dress out will rival SF.
MamaSheepdog
Well-known member
PPM,
have you envisioned your future setup? Specifically, one tier or two? My BunnyBarn holds 24 cages in two tiers... 12 doe cages back to back on the top row with dropping boards below them, and 12 buck/junior cages on the bottom. The bottom cages are 24" deep as opposed to 30" so there is room for the urine and droppings from above to fall between them.
I didn't look at the cages you are considering, but make sure they have large doors. It can be difficult to reach a reluctant rabbit even in my 30" x 30" cages, and it is a good thing I have a small frame, because I sometimes have to wedge my head and shoulders into the cage to get one out.
On goats- you need a buck or access to one if you want milk. Some does will produce for two years on one "freshening", but most need to be bred every year. You can recoup your money by selling the kids, or send them to the freezer.
I am fortunate that I have a friend that I can "borrow" a buck from. I have three does due any day now, and another that I think "missed". I traded two processed rabbits for the service.
Hah! I see my Sistah OAF beat me to the point about the doors!
have you envisioned your future setup? Specifically, one tier or two? My BunnyBarn holds 24 cages in two tiers... 12 doe cages back to back on the top row with dropping boards below them, and 12 buck/junior cages on the bottom. The bottom cages are 24" deep as opposed to 30" so there is room for the urine and droppings from above to fall between them.
I didn't look at the cages you are considering, but make sure they have large doors. It can be difficult to reach a reluctant rabbit even in my 30" x 30" cages, and it is a good thing I have a small frame, because I sometimes have to wedge my head and shoulders into the cage to get one out.
On goats- you need a buck or access to one if you want milk. Some does will produce for two years on one "freshening", but most need to be bred every year. You can recoup your money by selling the kids, or send them to the freezer.
I am fortunate that I have a friend that I can "borrow" a buck from. I have three does due any day now, and another that I think "missed". I traded two processed rabbits for the service.
Hah! I see my Sistah OAF beat me to the point about the doors!
PistolPackingMomma
Well-known member
OneAcreFarm":29hgct6n said:PPM, welcome to RT! So glad to have another like minded woman here. I carry daily as well. I currently carry a Bersa 380CC but I am saving up for a Cold Defender....I also have a Glock 26, a Bersa 45UC and a Taurus Judge 45/410....
Thanks! I have the Bersa ThunderCC too, but hardly ever shoot it anymore after I got my mitts on a Sig P238. Colts are excellent guns; I'm sure you'll love the Defender!
Thanks so much for your advice; I've also been spending some time on your blog and love all the information there. I showed my husband your picture gallery of the rabbitries, and even he started getting excited and saying what designs/ideas he liked and didn't like!
I did check out Bass, but ended up ordering from Klubertanz just now, as the prices seemed pretty much the same for what I was ordering. I might order from Bass for stuff like feeders and bottles, if I can't find a better deal locally. Which might be a problem, since my city and the surrounding areas seem rather depressed of healthy livestock and quality supplies. Seriously, I don't know what's up with where I live, but people either aren't interested in the same things I am, or they just won't let go of it!<br /><br />__________ Mon Feb 11, 2013 12:44 pm __________<br /><br />
MamaSheepdog":29hgct6n said:
To be honest, I'm still trying to figure that out. I'll most likely end up going single tier for now, but am feeling flexible. It all really depends on whether or not there's room in the shed at the new place we might possibly be moving to, or if I have to build a free standing "pavilion" or something. Raising-rabbits.com has some interesting plans on a PVC pipe hanging cage set up that I'm strongly considering as a back up...
As I was ordering the cages, the Klubertanz employee said the doors were large, but being new to this, I don't know what she was using as a comparison. Large is how large? I'm about average build, so hopefully it won't be an issue. If it is, well, my husband can try his hand at "bunny wrangling", lol!!! It should be entertaining, if nothing else.
On goats- you need a buck or access to one if you want milk. Some does will produce for two years on one "freshening", but most need to be bred every year. You can recoup your money by selling the kids, or send them to the freezer.
I am fortunate that I have a friend that I can "borrow" a buck from. I have three does due any day now, and another that I think "missed". I traded two processed rabbits for the service.
Hah! I see my Sistah OAF beat me to the point about the doors!
Yeah, I probably won't start out with my own buck for awhile, since feeding a smelly dude year round for once a year use won't be cost effective with such a small starting out herd, but I am thinking two (un-pedigreed but quality) La Mancha does in two or three years, and either raising up the does for more milk production or selling them, and the wethers will be destined for freezer camp. We love venison, but my husband and I love to try "Bizarre Foods" so goat is definitely on the menu. What sort of goats do you have? I love that you barter rabbit meat for stud service; that's awesome. Ideally, I'd love to barter for everything, but I gotta have the right neighbors for that!
MamaSheepdog
Well-known member
My goats are a real mixed bag! :lol:
I have:
Alby, a purebred Angora doe
Oprah, a black 1/2 Angora 1/2 Nigerian dwarf
Oprah's daughters;
Pinyapple and Honeysuckle 3/4 Nigerian 1/4 Angora
2 wethers (1/2 Nigerian Dwarf) out of Alby who are destined for the freezer and "life" as rugs.
The buck I used this time is a mini La Mancha, which was developed by crossing La Mancha and Nigerian Dwarf to bring down the size.
I have:
Alby, a purebred Angora doe
Oprah, a black 1/2 Angora 1/2 Nigerian dwarf
Oprah's daughters;
Pinyapple and Honeysuckle 3/4 Nigerian 1/4 Angora
2 wethers (1/2 Nigerian Dwarf) out of Alby who are destined for the freezer and "life" as rugs.
The buck I used this time is a mini La Mancha, which was developed by crossing La Mancha and Nigerian Dwarf to bring down the size.
DonnerSurvivor
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I have Florida Whites and they are the calmest rabbits ive ever had. Some beef cattle guys like to say there are more variations within a breed than between breeds ive found this to be true with almost any animal especially when it relates to temperament.
When it comes to goat meat if you like deer youll like goat the taste is very similar. And the best goat related investment will be a high quality electric fencer!
When it comes to goat meat if you like deer youll like goat the taste is very similar. And the best goat related investment will be a high quality electric fencer!
