I'm just starting off my rabbit breeding operation and I want to start with new Zealand whites, but I don't know anything about breeding them and I cant find any info online that is consistent about how to undergo the process of breeding this kind of rabbit if anyone could help me it would be appreciated so much!
Im new to new zealand whites
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breeding NZ's is no different than breeding any other rabbit. 
confirm you have one buck, one doe and both are in good health.
Confirm doe readiness and buck old enough to do the job.
Bring doe to buck.
Hopefully he will mount her and fall off.
What happens next is YOUR choice.
1. let him mount her 2-3 more times.
2. remove her and bring her back 15 minutes later to repeat that.
3. let him breed her twice, remove her and then bring her back within 8 hours.
Your choice. People give pros and cons for each method.
What I do.
bring doe to buck, allow him to mate with her 2-4 times, remove her and done.
You get discrepancies in rabbits since they are all as individual as we are.
Currently I have:
I have a doe who won't breed unless I bring the buck to her.
I have a buck who will breed.. then make nice for five minutes.. and then breed again. With him I remove the doe, wait about 30 second and then put her back with him. He's a goob but his babies are very pretty.
I have a doe who won't breed unless she's mounted the buck first.. I ONLY put her in with experienced bucks as that can scare a young buck shy for a long time.
Rabbits are interesting but odd creatures.
confirm you have one buck, one doe and both are in good health.
Confirm doe readiness and buck old enough to do the job.
Bring doe to buck.
Hopefully he will mount her and fall off.
What happens next is YOUR choice.
1. let him mount her 2-3 more times.
2. remove her and bring her back 15 minutes later to repeat that.
3. let him breed her twice, remove her and then bring her back within 8 hours.
Your choice. People give pros and cons for each method.
What I do.
bring doe to buck, allow him to mate with her 2-4 times, remove her and done.
You get discrepancies in rabbits since they are all as individual as we are.
Currently I have:
I have a doe who won't breed unless I bring the buck to her.
I have a buck who will breed.. then make nice for five minutes.. and then breed again. With him I remove the doe, wait about 30 second and then put her back with him. He's a goob but his babies are very pretty.
I have a doe who won't breed unless she's mounted the buck first.. I ONLY put her in with experienced bucks as that can scare a young buck shy for a long time.
Rabbits are interesting but odd creatures.
SatinsRule
Well-known member
It all depends upon what you're wanting to do with your rabbits primarily.
If your primary ambition is meat production, Ladysown's recommendation will work in spades. It will certainly allow you the leeway to do so without an incredible amount of money spent in doing so.
If your primary ambition is to compete in showrooms, you owe it to yourself to spend a bit more money on good stock from reputable, competitive breeders. This route will save you a lot of money and aggravation in the long run toward becoming and remaining competitive.
Most commercial breed showroom breeders will tell you that you'll get more from your money by spending more money up front for well-proportioned show rabbits, and there is definitely validity in their argument. If you're planning to make them dual purpose (meat and showroom), the second route certainly plays to your advantage because you get to eat whatever rabbits your choose to cull.
Showroom NZ's and meat producers can be one and the same, but your primary ambition should drive your decision.
If your primary ambition is meat production, Ladysown's recommendation will work in spades. It will certainly allow you the leeway to do so without an incredible amount of money spent in doing so.
If your primary ambition is to compete in showrooms, you owe it to yourself to spend a bit more money on good stock from reputable, competitive breeders. This route will save you a lot of money and aggravation in the long run toward becoming and remaining competitive.
Most commercial breed showroom breeders will tell you that you'll get more from your money by spending more money up front for well-proportioned show rabbits, and there is definitely validity in their argument. If you're planning to make them dual purpose (meat and showroom), the second route certainly plays to your advantage because you get to eat whatever rabbits your choose to cull.
Showroom NZ's and meat producers can be one and the same, but your primary ambition should drive your decision.
Comet007
Well-known member
We just started with rabbits this year, too - NZR & NZB brokens, and they are SO much fun!
Here are a few really good websites for information - and of course there is a vast wealth of info here on RT if you look around:
Commercial NZW breeder site -http://www.crossroadsrabbitry.com/helpful-resources/
Not NZ's, but I found a lot of good rabbitry info on here: http://www.thenaturetrail.com/rabbit-breeding/
Palpation article - https://www.arba.net/PDFs/palpation.pdf
Excellent health/symptom chart with info about treating various ailments - http://www.welshrabbitry.com/health.html#peanut
If you're interested in medicinal herbs for rabbits this is a good one - http://riseandshinerabbitry.com/2012/06 ... r-rabbits/
General info about the NZ breed - http://mosaicrabbitry.weebly.com/new-zealand.html
Good info on breeding - http://www.welshrabbitry.com/birth.html
Grumpy's processing video thread - learning-aid-for-usda-protocol-processing-video-t18360.html?hilit=processing%20video
How to debone a rabbit - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ku1jKYdaNEY
setting up a processing station how to article - http://velacreations.com/food/animals/r ... ttoir.html
Here are a few really good websites for information - and of course there is a vast wealth of info here on RT if you look around:
Commercial NZW breeder site -http://www.crossroadsrabbitry.com/helpful-resources/
Not NZ's, but I found a lot of good rabbitry info on here: http://www.thenaturetrail.com/rabbit-breeding/
Palpation article - https://www.arba.net/PDFs/palpation.pdf
Excellent health/symptom chart with info about treating various ailments - http://www.welshrabbitry.com/health.html#peanut
If you're interested in medicinal herbs for rabbits this is a good one - http://riseandshinerabbitry.com/2012/06 ... r-rabbits/
General info about the NZ breed - http://mosaicrabbitry.weebly.com/new-zealand.html
Good info on breeding - http://www.welshrabbitry.com/birth.html
Grumpy's processing video thread - learning-aid-for-usda-protocol-processing-video-t18360.html?hilit=processing%20video
How to debone a rabbit - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ku1jKYdaNEY
setting up a processing station how to article - http://velacreations.com/food/animals/r ... ttoir.html
thanks so much guys all this information is super helpful I should be getting them this summer when I have more time and im really looking forward to raising them, I will be raising them for meat primarily but I am thinking about maybe doing show as well if it is something I am interested in <br /><br /> __________ Fri May 16, 2014 2:28 pm __________ <br /><br /> one of the biggest questions I have about breeding is how to tell if the doe has conceived, is there any kind of outward physical sign or change in behavior to tell if she is pregnant or not?
I should be getting them this summer when I have more time and im really looking forward to raising them, I will be raising them for meat primarily but I am thinking about maybe doing show as well if it is something I am interested in <br /><br /> __________ Fri May 16, 2014 2:28 pm __________ <br /><br /> one of the biggest questions I have about breeding is how to tell if the doe has conceived, is there any kind of outward physical sign or change in behavior to tell if she is pregnant or not?
Some does have behavioral changes and some do show the pregnancy. Many though have no signs of being pregnant. You can palpate at about 2 weeks. It takes practice and preferably someone experienced showing you how. Some people just can't seem to get good enough at it. Most probably go ahead and wait. Usually around 35 days with no kits the doe is rebred but occasionally litters have been born later.
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Unfortunately, that part is pretty subjective.
Outward signs include:
Moodiness, or change in temperament from nice to naughty, or from naughty to nice
Haystaches (carrying hay around, looking for a place to put it)
Pulling fur
Digging randomly at cage
Any and all of these behaviors can occur any time in pregnancy, whether or not the doe actually conceived. It can even happen in a doe you KNOW is not bred, in which case she's telling you she wants to be. :roll:
Outward signs, such as belly enlargement, sometimes never happen... but will appear very late in pregnancy
Palpation works great for some, not at all for others.
Well, Akane beat me to it, but here are my $.02 anyway.
Outward signs include:
Moodiness, or change in temperament from nice to naughty, or from naughty to nice
Haystaches (carrying hay around, looking for a place to put it)
Pulling fur
Digging randomly at cage
Any and all of these behaviors can occur any time in pregnancy, whether or not the doe actually conceived. It can even happen in a doe you KNOW is not bred, in which case she's telling you she wants to be. :roll:
Outward signs, such as belly enlargement, sometimes never happen... but will appear very late in pregnancy
Palpation works great for some, not at all for others.
Well, Akane beat me to it, but here are my $.02 anyway.
