How much do we feed a pregnant Holland Lop or Lionhead?
- Thread starter jimmywalt
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The weight range within a breed is too great to give a specific number - I've met a few 5+ pound "Holland Lops" 
It should go by weight AND metabolism.
A rough estimate is 1 ounce (by weight) per pound of bunny but my laid back and LAZY 11 pound NZcross buck couldnt have more than 6 oz or he'd get obese.
I start feeding most of my meat does free choice pellets a week before they are due to help them keep condition but not for my Mini Lops who only have 1 to 3 litters a year.
It should go by weight AND metabolism.
A rough estimate is 1 ounce (by weight) per pound of bunny but my laid back and LAZY 11 pound NZcross buck couldnt have more than 6 oz or he'd get obese.
I start feeding most of my meat does free choice pellets a week before they are due to help them keep condition but not for my Mini Lops who only have 1 to 3 litters a year.
grumpy
Well-known member
Everyone has their own set of guidelines when it comes to feeding expectant
does. Myself, I never vary their diet "until" they kindle. Then, I gradually
increase their feed over the next several days. Otherwise, if you go full-feed
all at once, they may overproduce their milk supply and end up with problems.
Find a method that you're comfortable with and proceed. All I've ever raised
is meat rabbits, so I know nothing about the smaller breeds.
grumpy.
does. Myself, I never vary their diet "until" they kindle. Then, I gradually
increase their feed over the next several days. Otherwise, if you go full-feed
all at once, they may overproduce their milk supply and end up with problems.
Find a method that you're comfortable with and proceed. All I've ever raised
is meat rabbits, so I know nothing about the smaller breeds.
grumpy.
Prisma
Well-known member
I feed as the rabbit needs to stay in condition. Dood has good point, usually rule of thumb is 1 oz per lb of body weight. Some will eat more some will eat less, go on the condition of the doe though. If she is fed too much too soon the labor could be very hard from her not being able to properly push because of excess fat or even the kits getting too big.
grumpy
Well-known member
Dood also pointed out that feeding his NZ/crossbred one ounce per pound
would cause him to become "obese".
I've always kept my breeding stock to the thin-side. I've had dozens of people
remark about them and their svelte appearance. Usually followed by a retort
of how much "larger" their rabbits are of the same breed.
Then, they'll have a hard time replying to my question of "how well do they do in production???"
""Hmmmm.....Geez....I can't get 'em to breed like they should.......
I just point to the cages full of fryers...........and grin.
Fat-Rabbits....don't do well.......Nuff said.
grumpy.
would cause him to become "obese".
I've always kept my breeding stock to the thin-side. I've had dozens of people
remark about them and their svelte appearance. Usually followed by a retort
of how much "larger" their rabbits are of the same breed.
Then, they'll have a hard time replying to my question of "how well do they do in production???"
""Hmmmm.....Geez....I can't get 'em to breed like they should.......
I just point to the cages full of fryers...........and grin.
Fat-Rabbits....don't do well.......Nuff said.
grumpy.
i feed holland lops and lionheads 1/2 cup feed per day.
This varies up or down a bit depending on the rabbit, but it's the average.
This amount doesn't change during pregnancy unless the doe is demanding more feed (doesn't leave the normal 3-5 pellets behind and acts hungry).
I double it the day of kindling, and increase to three times normal ration by three weeks post kindle. then 1/2 per rabbit in the cage plus one scoop. I find this keeps them all fed with a good approx. 1/2 to 3/4 cup cushion.
This varies up or down a bit depending on the rabbit, but it's the average.
This amount doesn't change during pregnancy unless the doe is demanding more feed (doesn't leave the normal 3-5 pellets behind and acts hungry).
I double it the day of kindling, and increase to three times normal ration by three weeks post kindle. then 1/2 per rabbit in the cage plus one scoop. I find this keeps them all fed with a good approx. 1/2 to 3/4 cup cushion.
So is it ok if we got out each morning and find almost all the rabbits dishes empty? There's one rabbit and one dish per cage.
I don't want to starve them, but I also don't want them to be fat so that they can't have kits.
I don't want to starve them, but I also don't want them to be fat so that they can't have kits.
I think its ok and probably good if their feed dishes go empty. I think if the feed dishes never go empty that's the sign you are feeding too much.
I think its good for rabbits to eat their hay so they constantly have fiber going through their system, and if they have a constant supply of pellets is spoils their appetite for their hay. So its good if they run out of pellets— then they eat the hay.
Also, I agree with the others that they mostly need more calories to produce the milk, so you don't really need to increase feed until right before kindling and after kindling.
I think its good for rabbits to eat their hay so they constantly have fiber going through their system, and if they have a constant supply of pellets is spoils their appetite for their hay. So its good if they run out of pellets— then they eat the hay.
Also, I agree with the others that they mostly need more calories to produce the milk, so you don't really need to increase feed until right before kindling and after kindling.
