How do you pick up your rabbits?

[TF3]

How do you pick up?
Hold?
What about unused to handling/ struggling?
Variation in technique based on size?

 

[akane]

I scruff to stop them, lift a varying amount depending, and then scoop under them with the other hand. Pressing them against you after that usually keeps the wiggly ones under control and feeling safe. I have had some extreme rabbits though. One netherland doe would go so wild I could not hold her against me. She just tore me up everywhere. I had scratches thru my shirt, down my arms, over my shoulder, bleeding hands, and even sometimes my face. It was like trying to hold a feral cat. I ended up having to scruff her and swing her short distances from one object to the next and if carrying farther than between nearby cages I had to drop her into a carrier even to cross a room. Nice doe otherwise. Dunno what her problem was. She did get some handling growing up but I'm not sure it was a lot. Generally they will calm down after awhile but 8months on she was still just as bad and I sold her.

 

[Rainey]

Ran across this thread post243451.html?hilit=handling%20rabbits#p243451 last year when we were first starting and MSD's post in it about how to handle rabbits that are not used to being held was very helpful. I don't know how to make the link so it goes straight to her post but if you scroll down you'll find it--and maybe find help from the other advice or at least feel comforted if your worst rabbit isn't that hard to handle

MSD here! Rainey, to link a specific post, click on the "post number" at the top of the user's post. A box will pop up and give you a direct link.

This is the link: post243504.html#p243504

Glad my post helped you! Thanks for the compliment in referring back to it.

 

[Zass]

I have my cages only 24 inches deep, but with doors wide enough to get my shoulders through, so I find it relatively easy to get a rabbit under control with both hands on them before picking them up. Usually a hand on their head helps get them to submit to being lifted. I run my second hand down their body in a way that lets them know I'm about to pick them up ( I will feel them brace for lifting, which actually makes it easier), and then I slide my hand under their bottom to lift.
The hand I have on their head moves under their chest or front feet(depending on size and how docile the rabbit is.)

Then it's just a quick motion from the cage floor to my chest, with the option of them burying their face between an arm and my body if they feel particularly insecure.
I don't scruff unless it's absolutely necessary to keep a wild one under control, but I don't keep wild ones. If I have to scruff a rabbit to keep it from scratching me to death or flying out of my arms, it's on the dinner list. I know some would consider that extreme, but I like being able to handle my rabbits gently, and bare handed.

To return them or set them down, always do so with the rabbit facing you and their backside facing the surface or cage, otherwise a rabbit may try to leap out of your arms.

 

[akane]

I'm not scruffing to actually lift them fully off the ground or because they are wiggly. I have small hands even for handling netherlands. I have to wear kid size gloves, often shoes, and riding helmet or cowboy hat. The young netherlands I can scoop without scruffing them. If they get over that 2lb mark I start having issues reaching anything that isn't at the right height in a top opening cage and it's become habit from when I was moving 6-12lb rabbits. Also moving checkereds. They aren't wild but they claw you in this more calculating way to express their dislike of being made still.

 

[ottersatin]

I do scruff my rabbits,
but not to pick them up. I never pick them up with one hand.
The scruff hand is the control hand, I even have their ears in that same hand.
When you have their ears you have much better control.
Thy find it hard to turn their head and seem to become much more relaxed.
I set them on a rugged table for examination. Sexing, grooming etc.
I don't know for certain but my Rabbits seem to be alright with my actions.
Ottersatin. ldtimer:

 

[Zass]

I'm not scruffing to actually lift them fully off the ground or because they are wiggly. I have small hands even for handling netherlands. I have to wear kid size gloves, often shoes, and riding helmet or cowboy hat. The young netherlands I can scoop without scruffing them. If they get over that 2lb mark I start having issues reaching anything that isn't at the right height in a top opening cage and it's become habit from when I was moving 6-12lb rabbits. Also moving checkereds. They aren't wild but they claw you in this more calculating way to express their dislike of being made still.

Holding the scruff is the proper way to handle rabbits according to most material I've ever found on it.

My thoughts are like..I've seen enough controversy to make me hesitant to do it to my own (because they are treated as pets and because they are mostly docile enough to not require it), but not enough controversy to make me think others are doing any wrong by it.

 

[MamaSheepdog]

Here is the text from my post that Rainey linked to above that explains my method of handling and "training" rabbits:

First off, put on a long sleeved shirt for a little added protection. A sweatshirt is a great option if the weather permits. Have a table with a piece of carpeting on it and if possible bring that close to your cages so you don't need to move the rabbits very far.

Place your non-dominant hand over the rabbits ears and gently but firmly grip the neck and shoulder area and press the rabbit down toward the floor of the cage. Take your other hand and slide it under the rabbits belly with the joint between your thumb and index finger positioned at the point where the hind leg meets the body. Your thumb will be on the outside of the leg.

Now lift the rabbit up, pushing the shoulder area toward your supporting hand. With a smooth motion, quickly bring the rabbit out of the cage and into your body. You will end up with the length of the rabbit's body crosswise to your torso, with the head positioned so that you can tuck it under your arm if you wish. Covering the eyes will help to calm the rabbit.

Take the rabbit to the table and begin to set it down. If it starts to kick or struggle, bring it firmly back against your body, and then try again. Repeat until the rabbit just hangs relaxed in your hands until you set it down. At this point, stroke the rabbit from the ears and down the body a few times. Let it relax for a little bit, and then pick it up again as described above. You just need to lift it about 6" to 8" inches off of the table. If it struggles, bring it into your body. If not, gently set it down again.

If you are a "talker", keep up a soothing monologue while you are doing all of this. If you aren't- just project a calm, relaxed attitude.

Repeat the picking up/setting down exercise about a half dozen times. Spend about 3-5 minutes "grooming" the rabbit by first lightly misting it with water and then firmly stroking it from head to tail and tail to head. If it is shedding, the water will make the fur stick to your hands. Rubbing them together will get the fur to roll up so you can get it off, and then continue "grooming".

Pick up and set down the rabbit a couple of more times, and then return it to the cage. Always, ALWAYS put the rabbit back butt-first so it doesn't try to make a leap for freedom. Keep your hand on the shoulders and pet the rabbit for a few seconds, making sure it is calm before releasing it. At this point, a tasty treat will go a long way to ending the whole training exercise on a positive note.

You should notice a huge improvement the next time you take the rabbit out. It has never taken me more than two or three sessions to "tame" them this way, and they are also more relaxed and friendly when in their cages. My adult rabbits are all great about being carried and handled- all of my scratches come from working with babies that haven't yet been "trained".

 

[karebru]

Here is the text from my post that Rainey linked to above that explains my method of handling and "training" rabbits:

First off, put on a long sleeved shirt for a little added protection. A sweatshirt is a great option if the weather permits. Have a table with a piece of carpeting on it and if possible bring that close to your cages so you don't need to move the rabbits very far.

Place your non-dominant hand over the rabbits ears and gently but firmly grip the neck and shoulder area and press the rabbit down toward the floor of the cage. Take your other hand and slide it under the rabbits belly with the joint between your thumb and index finger positioned at the point where the hind leg meets the body. Your thumb will be on the outside of the leg.

Now lift the rabbit up, pushing the shoulder area toward your supporting hand. With a smooth motion, quickly bring the rabbit out of the cage and into your body. You will end up with the length of the rabbit's body crosswise to your torso, with the head positioned so that you can tuck it under your arm if you wish. Covering the eyes will help to calm the rabbit.

Take the rabbit to the table and begin to set it down. If it starts to kick or struggle, bring it firmly back against your body, and then try again. Repeat until the rabbit just hangs relaxed in your hands until you set it down. At this point, stroke the rabbit from the ears and down the body a few times. Let it relax for a little bit, and then pick it up again as described above. You just need to lift it about 6" to 8" inches off of the table. If it struggles, bring it into your body. If not, gently set it down again.

If you are a "talker", keep up a soothing monologue while you are doing all of this. If you aren't- just project a calm, relaxed attitude.

Repeat the picking up/setting down exercise about a half dozen times. Spend about 3-5 minutes "grooming" the rabbit by first lightly misting it with water and then firmly stroking it from head to tail and tail to head. If it is shedding, the water will make the fur stick to your hands. Rubbing them together will get the fur to roll up so you can get it off, and then continue "grooming".

Pick up and set down the rabbit a couple of more times, and then return it to the cage. Always, ALWAYS put the rabbit back butt-first so it doesn't try to make a leap for freedom. Keep your hand on the shoulders and pet the rabbit for a few seconds, making sure it is calm before releasing it. At this point, a tasty treat will go a long way to ending the whole training exercise on a positive note.

You should notice a huge improvement the next time you take the rabbit out. It has never taken me more than two or three sessions to "tame" them this way, and they are also more relaxed and friendly when in their cages. My adult rabbits are all great about being carried and handled- all of my scratches come from working with babies that haven't yet been "trained".

I'm still trying to figure it out. So it ends up a little different each time. I'm going to have to try all that. Thanks.

I take them out and hose the cages down once a week, and they spend a little time in carriers. Then, I weigh each before returning it to it's cage. It's the routine I've come up with and it get's them handled, at least a little bit, along with the several rub-downs, which they've conditioned us to give every day.
(Must obey the bunnies. :bow: )
My Silver Foxes, I can scoop up like you would a dogs. Just lift them out and lay them along my forearm with the head tucked under. No fuss.
My pair of Havanas are both also very sweet, until both hands go in the cage. Then there's a round and round chase. Once I do get a hold of them, they're pissed, and like trying to hang on to 4 pound bumble bees. We've done the, semi-controlled, emergency decent to the floor... the, lunge forward to land them on the a table or chair...even the flying leap with a half twist, and a spread-eagle "splat" on the concrete floor. :x (Thankfully, without injury.)
I've done pretty well when and if I can manage to get one hand spread over their face and one under the rump with my thumb over the back. (Similar to the description above.) With a little gentle pressure, I can keep pretty good control for the few seconds it takes to get them out and lying on top of my arm, where they squirm but can somewhat be contained.
I've been wearing leather, rose gardening gauntlets to handle just these two. :?
I'm sure them seeing the gloves coming doesn't help, but the human body only holds so much blood.
I haven't been bitten yet, but I've been "boxed" (front paws) more than once... kinda funny.

 

[TF3]

Thank you!
I have been just getting by~ scruffing if needed.
I didn't really think about it until my mother visited and reached in and picked up a Holland Lop by the space in front of the pelvis.
I had never seen that (she is an old time farm girl... but we had rabbits growing up and I figured I learned scruffing from her!), and she swears that is what she always did. Hmmm.

That, and not being happy with response to handling by some, I thought I would ask, and glad I did!
I have a mix, some are easy to handle any way.
Others are sweet on their feet but the devil when picked up.
And my biggest (FG) is just a beast to manage (he's not bad, just big!)~ he gets a burrito wrap!
{my arms are atrocious from a cross of scratches from my Cali male and sharp cage edges that I *really* need to do something more with than duct tape}

Cage size... good point... my husband made mine too deep (and one bank is too high + deep) and I can't get my shoulders in.

I am totally going to start the MSD Method tonight with my best ones.
I have two new and pregnant does that are pretty miserable, so right now I am just reaching in, touching, rewarding when they allow it (leave the treat because heaven forbid they take it from me!)~ I'll work them up to more handling (one is 12 lbs French Lop cross so NOT easy to handle and she panics).

 

[Zass]

I didn't really think about it until my mother visited and reached in and picked up a Holland Lop by the space in front of the pelvis.

I think my old Rabbit Production book mentioned that method as an acceptable way to pick up young or very small rabbits. I know I've seen it somewhere..

 

[katiebear]

That is the way the guy we got our first rabbits did it..Hubby still does it occasionally. ..I don't like it myself it seems to stress the bun out. I use the method Mamasheepdog uses..it takes some practice and the buns need to learn to trust you. But if you do it with the kits they don't know any other way...mine let me pick them up but will fight hubby..they are big mutts 12+pounds for does my buck pushes 15..

 

[MamaSheepdog]

I didn't really think about it until my mother visited and reached in and picked up a Holland Lop by the space in front of the pelvis.

I think my old Rabbit Production book mentioned that method as an acceptable way to pick up young or very small rabbits. I know I've seen it somewhere..

This is an acceptable way to pick up young rabbits, but teaches them nothing. I would avoid doing it with any rabbits that are heavy bodied as seniors, even if they are a small or dwarf breed.

 

[funnies50]

I do scruff my rabbits,
but not to pick them up. I never pick them up with one hand.
The scruff hand is the control hand, I even have their ears in that same hand.
When you have their ears you have much better control.
Thy find it hard to turn their head and seem to become much more relaxed.

Huh. Interesting.
I picked mine up with one hand under them and one hand over...not sure if that's right or not, but it was always for short trips (usually placing them somewhere else)...So idk?

 

[TF3]

This is working well with the Hollands, even though they tend to go popcorning out of my hands LOL thank goodness they are small and easy to catch like a pop fly!!

My cages are no good for removing my bucks this way, but I am getting better with practice and my Cali and NZR bucks are sweet boys.

I managed a modified lift and hold with my meat brick of a NZW/Satin -- she's new and pregnant and cranky and bit my arm but we managed.

However 8-9 lbs and I'm out!
Any suggestions for the big ones (my FGs are only 13-15)?

I have three meat mutt does who came here as Seniors and barring a brilliant display of mothering, I think each will be moving on after July litters. I'd rather keep their daughters, out of my nice bucks, and raise them up being handled.

Thank you for the input on n this thread!
I do see profess quickly in my youngsters and appreciate the info to improve my skills (and my kiddo).

 

[mystang89]

I pick mine up by the scruff of the neck then cuddle them like a cute furry football with knives for feet.

 

[imajpm]

I scruff the kickers who will add to the myriad of rabbit scars I already have, but only when they are small. If they are large I do a partial scruff, lifting them up enough to get my other hand under to support their weight. Then if they are new to handling, or fussy about being picked up, I tuck them like a football, with their head tucked behind my elbow. They seem to feel secure in that position. My angora's I do not scruff. Those are very easy to just pick up like a cat. They don't really kick and I can hold and carry them in practically any position.

 

[TF3]

Cute furry football with knives for feet.

Perfection!!

 

[skysthelimit]

I tend to catch mine behind the ears and push them forward on the rear with the other hand, give them a bit of a push out, keeping my finger between the ears and head and neck still. I hold them like babies up against my chest and generally they don't struggle.

The Jersey woolies I can almost pick up with one hand, those I do reach under them between front and back feet, with the other hand on the back. If I did that to the bog ones, they would most certainly kick and scratch me, though there is one Angora I can carry like a doll, feet dangling.

 

[TF3]

So two of the brats have been happily carried as footballs with their heads in the crook of my elbow/ under my arm and they have nipped me!