Help! Worms!!!!

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Diamond

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While cleaning the rabitry today I noticed small, thin white worms in the manure of a pregnant doe. A LOT of them.

What type of wormer is safe for a pregnant doe? I think the worms are whipworms, or wireworms, they are about 0.75 cm long and very thin, not like tapeworm segments.
 
Are you sure the doe actually has worms? I have seen similar in accumulated manure below the cages, but the rabbits have not had worms.

I used Ivermectin on a pregnant doe, with no problem at all. :)
 
It was only 2 days of poo in a tray, and all of it had the worms. I did some research online and they look like these:

(graphic pictures)
http://www.medirabbit.com/EN/GI_disease ... atodes.htm

So now I am trying to find out if Panacur can be safely given to a pregnant doe

I did find a dosage guideline for treating rabbits with Panacur's active ingredient, fenbendazole, at 20 mg per Kg body weight, with s 5 to 7 day treatment for pinworms or whipworms.
 
I have never used anything on a pregnant doe, but both Ivermec and Panacur are used on pregnant dogs.
 
From what I have read online Ivermectin can be used on pregnant does. I also read on another forum about a man who gives Ivermectin to his pregnant does to combat ear mites and he said he has never had a problem. I just treated my rabbits with it when I left for work and they are all doing great. Not a ear mite in site. (None of my does are pregnant though)
 
panacur is what the vets will recommend. it's what I recommend as well. it doesn't stay in their system as long as Ivermectin does and does not have negative side affects on the babies.

OR take a fecal sample into the vet and get them to tell you just what they are and how to treat.

For me here it costs like $5 to do that, the panacur costs as much for 20 rabbits as the fecal did.
 
Cydectin....an agricultural wormer, has been getting a lot of praise in the 'off label use' crowds-- it seems to take care of all sorts of issues, and can be applied at 50 times the recommended dose without harm... A drop or two rubbed into the belly skin--
 
I'd never heard of cydectin before so I looked it up.

http://www.noahcompendium.co.uk/Compend ... 41035.html link for cydectin withdrawal. Says for rabbits in system 5 days. BUT note what it does with other animals....

Not for use in milk producing animals. Has a long withdrawal time period. Consider too that rabbits eat their cecaltrophs (and yeah, I can NEVER remember how to spell that). But that action can cause meds to stay in their systems longer.
 
I am going to try fenbendazole. Got the granules for dogs and the paste wormer for horses. Now it's time to titrate down the doses (fun fun fun). Plan to do 5-day treatment with symptomatic doe and 3-day treatment with asymptomatic adult rabbits. Not sure what to do with the growout pens.
 
Diamond":2jzzozr6 said:
Got the granules for dogs and the paste wormer for horses. Now it's time to titrate down the doses (fun fun fun).

I don't know if you are planning on just using the leftover paste wormer from your horses, but if not you might want to take the paste back and get the sheep drench instead. It is easier to draw up the miniscule amount you need to dose the rabbits with.
 
Didn't know fenbendazole was available as a sheep drench..... will take a second look. Decided the granules aren't going to work - too hard to titrate and bolus into the animal. I will keep one box for the dog and exchange the other two.

The paste is not an exact science, I just use a tiny pea-size dab for each bun. 1 gram is more than enough to treat a large rabbit (my does run in the 12-14 pound range), one tube is 25 grams; teoretically should get 25 doses out of one syringe.

Just treated 10 adult buns, plan to do them 3 days in a row and give the symptomatic doe a full 5 days of treatment. Needless to say, my hands are a bit raked up from one young and squirrely doe. Rabbits are a bit easier to do than horses - seems that once I can get the goo around the inside of their lips then it stays in their mouth. Horses are notorious for spitting it out! My older does seem to tolerate the ordeal much better than the un-bred junior does.
 
with worms the treatment is one day and then 10 days later. you need to catch the hatching eggs to break the cycle. :)
 
Thanks Ladysown. I have treated dogs and horses in the past for pinworms and whipworms, the vets at that time reccommeneed a 5 day treatment. I will probably do the intensive treatment for the symptomatic doe but repeat on every'bunny' else in 10 days since they are not symnptomatic. I just figure if one has it, the others might, and everybunny needs treatment.
 
Diamond":239fb6h8 said:
Didn't know fenbendazole was available as a sheep drench

Oops. I just looked at the bottle, it is for goats, not sheep. At least mine is. I think I got it from TSC. It is Safe-guard brand fenbendazole, 10% solution. 100mgs per ml.
 
Worms??? FRESH PUMPKIN!!! Natural dewormer and the bunrabs will be YOUR slaves instead of the other way around :cheesysmile:
 
AnnClaire":3tmoeveg said:
Worms??? FRESH PUMPKIN!!! Natural dewormer and the bunrabs will be YOUR slaves instead of the other way around :cheesysmile:

I thought it was the seeds that worked for deworming? :?:
 
What I had seen was to feed the flesh and the seeds, and to grind the seeds for younger chickens ... so either way, pumpkin is a high-fiber supplement :D
 
I picked up the Safe-Gard goat dewormer, it is much easier to dose and administer. I have hit eveybunny twice in a row now, have one more day of treatment for the whole herd and 2 for the affected mama.

Dose for rabbits is 20mg/kg, the Safe-Gard solution is 100mg/mL (cc)

Here is the general dosage I am using: 1 cc (mL) for the big senior does - last I weighed them they were all in the 13-pound range (5 Kg)

0.8 cc for the senior bucks and junior does, who are in the 10-pound range

0.5 cc for the 10 week olds, who are in the 5-pound range

0.3 cc for the 8 week olds, who are in the 4 pound range

I did not treat the 6 and 7 week olds, they are too susceptible to tummy problems at this point. They are in hanging growout cages in the greenhouse, away from the main rabbitry.
 

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