Guinea Pigs (as in Cavies)

[Cspr]

All right, guys, I figure you might know what's up and whether or not I should go to my local vet (who was totally fine with me bringing him baby raccoons and only charges for what he does).

I have a total of three guinea pigs. Two Peruvians (boar, Rikki, and sow, Usha) and one American (boar, Tesla). The first I got together and have done really well for the most part. Much sturdier than rabbits, let me tell you. The second boar, Tesla, has also done well, even if he's a bit skittish.

Nonetheless, I had a "boar's cage" set up. As they grew and rough-housed a bit, I realized it was probably too small, so I increased size and added toys. This seemed fine. Rikki also had started chattering a bit and acting a bit like a grouch, but I just assumed it was hormones; he tugged down his water bottle, but they also like to throw their food out of their bowls and put their chew toys in there instead, so I just figured he was being a dork. Except he's getting more and more grouchy, always worried about me in his space, and chattering a lot more, seemingly whenever I get too close to him or the others. I don't get it, because I don't think I've ever done anything to scare him. A couple days back, he tried to bite me. When I gave him his bath and a combing, he seemed perturbed but no more than usual. Except today he's barely eaten at all and seems drowsy, so now I'm worried that instead of just being a more hands off pet, like a meat rabbit, he's been sick or something. But I don't know, since I've never had guinea pigs, and my books and Google aren't helping.

So any ideas?

1. Cage aggression.
2. Aggression to other guinea pigs and people.
3. Seems agitated and jumpy, almost paranoid.
4. He hasn't been playing as much and doesn't seem as interested in what's going on.
5. Not hungry, only nibbles at hay and treats, and sleeping more than usual.

He has no trouble in ears, eyes, nose, etc. He's drinking and peeing/pooping normally. No discharge. He feels fine over his body. No problems with his hair, it's still glossy and glamorous, no missing patches. I make sure to give him food with vit C and dark leafy greens.

 

[akane]

First rule out some of the most serious illness that need immediate care. Hold his ribs to your ear to listen for smooth, quiet breathing. The heart rate should nearly drown out the lungs with no clicks or pauses. If you hear unevenness, pops/clicks, or a large whoosh then there is a respiratory problem. It's one of the most serious illnesses of a guinea pig and they will go downhill rapidly once symptoms develop. Next put him in a regular cardboard box or somehow get him to pee on any darker, smooth surface. Check urine color and for any grittiness (easiest to just feel it once dry on a smooth surface). Guinea pigs should only pee yellow with a smooth white stain. Not the range rabbits can.

Guinea pigs nearly always only show aggression to humans when in pain. The most common cause of mystery pain with no symptoms is mites. Sometimes they can persist at a low level that just irritates the skin for many months or a short period of extra stress can make them susceptible to a new infestation. If there are no other symptoms of illness and no obvious behavioral cause most go ahead with mite treatment using ivermectin. The dosage is the same as for a horse per pound. They are just tiny to measure it out for so you can dilute horse paste to give by syringe or apply a drop of 1% injectible topically behind the ear every 7 days for 3 doses. Some of the rescues just treat all incoming guinea pigs with ivermectin irregardless of symptoms because mites are so common and so much effort to diagnose with confidence while the treatment is very safe.

There is a possibility it is behavioral. Aggression between boars is fairly normal and can turn bad quite easy. Generally you should have a cage of at least 10sq ft to try to keep intact boars together. Sometimes you can get away with a little less but not if you have a touchier or more active boar. While usually it's fine to keep sows in the same room it can effect some boars. Certain ones may require more space or not get along at all if they smell a sow. If the aggression comes and goes it may be a sow coming into heat that is causing the problem. If there is a lot of stress being put on one of them by it's cagemate they might turn it toward humans but still usually not which is why I would consider mites unless you are seeing large signs of stress between the pair.

 

[Cspr]

Thank you so much for your help, Akane. I just picked him up and his breathing seemed fine, didn't even notice it (b/c of the heart). Felt over his skin more firmly. I noticed a small amount of dandruff, so I'm going with mites too, you're probably right.

I actually don't have Ivermectin in my med kit because I had Vienna/BEW rabbits not long ago and none of my animals except ducks are outside and/or on the ground, so no need except for the dogs. Let me see what I have right now. I'm brain dead this late, sorry. Let's see...Sulmet is for cocci, A&D cream for dry skin (might help?), powdered vit C (probably a good idea to add right now), NutriCal (give him a dab since his appetite is poor)... Yada, yada. I think I have Revolution with the extended animal first aid kit, but if not I can just head to TSC for Ivermectin ASAP. I'd heard someone say you can use vegetable oil, like coconut or olive oil, to help with mites? (Ear mites, anyway, in rabbits.) I could start with that tonight if it might help.

 

[MamaSheepdog]

I don't know if cavy mites are on the surface or in the follicles (like mange mites), but you might try applying food grade Diatomaceous earth.

It can't hurt, and will definitely kill them if they are surface mites. It would likely kill the ones in the follicles as well, especially if they tend to move from place to place. <br /><br /> __________ Tue Aug 18, 2015 10:16 pm __________ <br /><br /> By the way, Akane, your post above was very detailed and in depth. :judges:

 

[akane]

They are a type of mange mite but less predictable than most animals. Symptoms may remain vague for a long time before hairloss happens. Skin scrapings often come back negative repeatedly and medicated shampoos do not work. All attempts to bathe it off usually just makes the guinea pig that much itchier risking infection from the scratches. I don't know all the reasons. I'm not sure how well DE would work. It seems like it should.

Revolution can be used on guinea pigs but again the dose is so tiny. 10mg/kg so it used to be an average of .1-.15cc for an adult from the 60mg/cc tubes or .06-.075cc from the 120mg/cc tubes but recalculate from scratch if you have an extra small adult. Some will ask for diabetic syringes at pharmacies because you can get them more detailed than even a standard 1cc syringe and just cut the needle off when you are done measuring. Rather than diluting anything and trying to get it evenly dispersed for accurate measuring.

The best quick fix for food and energy in guinea pigs that are off food is to mash up some fruit with some alfalfa leaves. Other hay leaves can be used. Second best is softened pellets with fruit but that's not always appealing enough. Banana is the best fruit and they like berries but anything on hand including fruit juice that isn't overly sweetened is fine for a day or 2.