Feeding alternative diet to Pellets?

[Rabbit Warren Man]

There is something I am still not clear about. People talk about the importance of hay in a rabbit's diet. Are they just generally referring to grasses or do they really mean  dried grasses? In the spring when we have plenty of green everything does it matter if we only offer fresh or is there a specific need for dried? As I write this, I'm thinking this is a ridiculous question and fresh can only be better, but I don't want to get this wrong and overwhelm the bunnies tummies....

Regardless of the answer,I guess there could be a convenience factor to consider as well. I am trying to imagine how much time I would have to spend twice a day going out to pick grass and other plants to feed the rabbits, rather than having a batch of dried stuff in the barn ready to feed...

Hay- yes hay is

There is something I am still not clear about. People talk about the importance of hay in a rabbit's diet. Are they just generally referring to grasses or do they really mean  dried grasses? In the spring when we have plenty of green everything does it matter if we only offer fresh or is there a specific need for dried? As I write this, I'm thinking this is a ridiculous question and fresh can only be better, but I don't want to get this wrong and overwhelm the bunnies tummies....

Regardless of the answer,I guess there could be a convenience factor to consider as well. I am trying to imagine how much time I would have to spend twice a day going out to pick grass and other plants to feed the rabbits, rather than having a batch of dried stuff in the barn ready to feed...

Hay is dried grass and you can purchase it from hay dealers in your area. Some people use the term hay to mean alfalfa hay. Alfalfa is a legume in the bean family and is not an actual hay. The types of hay you should look for is horse hay which typically includes meadow grass, Timothy, Brome, Orchard Grass or a 80/20 mix of grass and alfalfa.
Long stem grass that I have mentioned above as horse hay is vital to the health of your rabbits. Rabbits have the same type of digestive system as a horse and require long stem grasses in the rear gut for fibre to keel them healthy. Alfalfa is a rush feed and can cause diarrhea if no long stem grasses are in the rear gut. The long stem grasses are also key in wearing teeth down as will.
Always look the hay over well and do not accept hay that has Mold or is excessively dusty as it can cause respiratory issues.
My rabbits always have free access to Timothy/ Alfalfa mix hay around 80% Timothy and 20% Alfalfa.

 

[Rabbit Warren Man]

rush

Rich

 

[RabbitsOfTheCreek]

Rich

You can edit your comment

 

[LoveMyBarnyard]

Hay- yes hay is

Hay is dried grass and you can purchase it from hay dealers in your area. Some people use the term hay to mean alfalfa hay. Alfalfa is a legume in the bean family and is not an actual hay. The types of hay you should look for is horse hay which typically includes meadow grass, Timothy, Brome, Orchard Grass or a 80/20 mix of grass and alfalfa.
Long stem grass that I have mentioned above as horse hay is vital to the health of your rabbits. Rabbits have the same type of digestive system as a horse and require long stem grasses in the rear gut for fibre to keel them healthy. Alfalfa is a rush feed and can cause diarrhea if no long stem grasses are in the rear gut. The long stem grasses are also key in wearing teeth down as will.
Always look the hay over well and do not accept hay that has Mold or is excessively dusty as it can cause respiratory issues.
My rabbits always have free access to Timothy/ Alfalfa mix hay around 80% Timothy and 20% Alfalfa.

So we have plenty of long stem grasses growing on our property. We can pick it and give it to them fresh. Or we can dry it and feed it to them as hay. We cannot grow Timothy well in this region. My goal is to not buy rabbit food or hay but to produce and forage all of what they need. So my question is, at times when we have tall grasses that are green and ripe for picking (which is most of the year) is it healthy for rabbits to just be fed fresh grass or is there something specific about hay (dried grass) that their gut needs? i.e. do rabbits always need to be offered hay?

 

[RabbitsOfTheCreek]

So we have plenty of long stem grasses growing on our property. We can pick it and give it to them fresh. Or we can dry it and feed it to them as hay. We cannot grow Timothy well in this region. My goal is to not buy rabbit food or hay but to produce and forage all of what they need. So my question is, at times when we have tall grasses that are green and ripe for picking (which is most of the year) is it healthy for rabbits to just be fed fresh grass or is there something specific about hay (dried grass) that their gut needs? i.e. do rabbits always need to be offered hay?

Hay can last longer

 

[Rabbit Warren Man]

So we have plenty of long stem grasses growing on our property. We can pick it and give it to them fresh. Or we can dry it and feed it to them as hay. We cannot grow Timothy well in this region. My goal is to not buy rabbit food or hay but to produce and forage all of what they need. So my question is, at times when we have tall grasses that are green and ripe for picking (which is most of the year) is it healthy for rabbits to just be fed fresh grass or is there something specific about hay (dried grass) that their gut needs? i.e. do rabbits always need to be offered hay?

If you have fresh grasses that’s awesome food. I would also add some food grade diatomaceous earth to your feed as it will keep your rabbits parasite free.

 

[MelC]

I adopted a group of eight rabbits from a friend who relocated. Started with one buck, one doe and six babies (two adopted from another doe). I hope to tractor raise (though now I'm curious about free range rabbits) so began moving them towards foraged greens almost immediately. While I didn't take it as slow as recommended (was really just unaware) they have seem to have done okay so far. I've always been a fan of feeding a diet as close to natural as possible so research has taught me about tree hay and I've foraged weeds for my birds before. We are strapped for cash and I wanted to try to get five of our new bunch through winter for spring breeding opportunities, so I started collecting in late summer. Not just bundling fresh branches but pulling weeds and allowing them to dry in the sun. Our breezy, sunny area is great for drying things out quickly. I stuffed our detached storage area with hanging bundles and baskets of dried plant matter. All my edible garden plants were pulled and hung before the first freeze. We were also blessed to be given a large bale of locally harvested hay.

Now once a week I mix up a large tub of apple, willow, honey locust, mulberry and lilac leaves/twigs. Those and a large garbage can of hay get hauled into their enclosure for easy access. Smaller things like sweet pea and sweet potato vines, calendula, wheat, sorghum, dandelion, celery, kale, oregano, lemon balm, comfrey, catnip got mixed with dried veggies for food dish distribution.

I'm still giving some pellets as well until I learn what I'm doing but they definitely prefer everything else. Willow is a hit with all. Crabapple branches with tiny shriveled apples still attached are very prized, they get visibly excited to see them.

Planning to start sprouting soon, was hoping to have done so by now.

Curious what free range means? Is that a large colony or literally without borders?

 

[dlynn]

That sounds great. I just ordered some organic black oil sunflower seeds for planting off of Etsy. I read somewhere that we should only give a rabbit 6 seeds a day because it is so oily, but that it is great for their coat health. It also said the black oil variety is best for its thin shells and thus easy cracking.

Only 6 seeds? I read that too so asked at feed store. He laughed at anyone counting seeds.Think that depends on life style. Kind of like what an athlete can eat and what a couch potato can eat. Mine get a big handful each, everyday (more when it's really cold) and have for a long time. I also have a bin of free feed pellets I fill once a week (another thing I read is a no no).They seem to NOT over consume those and seem to prefer the branches, hay, and other greens. But always have available. Don't seem overweight. Seem healthy, both does are nursing large healthy litters (9 and 11) I feel an abundance lessens competition and fighting. They also spend lots of time running, jumping. Lots of exercise and entertainment. still learning but this seems to work for me and mine

I have a 3000 sq ft pen. My rabbits are outdoors 24/7. There is trees and shrubs in my pen along with several warrens I made for them. They have also made tunnels and dens in the burrows. I have 8 Doe’s and two bucks that stay together all the time. I live in Manitoba Canada.

Love your set up! These are my first rabbits, lots to learn. I really want to keep them all together. Feels abnormal not to, but I just fenced the male out. The does have kits they're nursing and he's been a terrible pest. When they didn't cooperate he tore bald spots on their backs, one he wouldn't let eat without jumping on her. When I tried hand feeding her, he bit me. I don't know if all males are like this? Is he extra aggressive? They have been together for almost a year.was always a pest and a me first kind of guy. Thought maybe he had outgrown his teenage brat boy. They have water, hay and pellets in shelter. I give oats , greens, branches, outside in the morning when I let them out. I was pleasantly surprised to see him stand back and let does have first pick at the oats and greens after kits were born. But that only lasted about a week now back to super pest, so I fenced him out. You have 2 bucks in the herd! How do they act? Am I right in thinking about replacing him? Would other bucks be less aggressive? I don't like him alone, especially in our cold north Wisconsin winters. Would really like bucks that could live peaceably in a herd. Or at least some that could get along in a group of bucks living together. Am I hoping for something unrealistic? After waiting for kits that didn't happen was thinking shooting blanks and already thinking new buck come spring. Then had first litter in the -20* artic blast. Found 9 frozen kits. 2 more litters since then. One 9, one 11. All seem healthy and doing well. Born about 2 weeks apart Any advice is appreciated. Thanks

I adopted a group of eight rabbits from a friend who relocated. Started with one buck, one doe and six babies (two adopted from another doe). I hope to tractor raise (though now I'm curious about free range rabbits) so began moving them towards foraged greens almost immediately. While I didn't take it as slow as recommended (was really just unaware) they have seem to have done okay so far. I've always been a fan of feeding a diet as close to natural as possible so research has taught me about tree hay and I've foraged weeds for my birds before. We are strapped for cash and I wanted to try to get five of our new bunch through winter for spring breeding opportunities, so I started collecting in late summer. Not just bundling fresh branches but pulling weeds and allowing them to dry in the sun. Our breezy, sunny area is great for drying things out quickly. I stuffed our detached storage area with hanging bundles and baskets of dried plant matter. All my edible garden plants were pulled and hung before the first freeze. We were also blessed to be given a large bale of locally harvested hay.

Now once a week I mix up a large tub of apple, willow, honey locust, mulberry and lilac leaves/twigs. Those and a large garbage can of hay get hauled into their enclosure for easy access. Smaller things like sweet pea and sweet potato vines, calendula, wheat, sorghum, dandelion, celery, kale, oregano, lemon balm, comfrey, catnip got mixed with dried veggies for food dish distribution.

I'm still giving some pellets as well until I learn what I'm doing but they definitely prefer everything else. Willow is a hit with all. Crabapple branches with tiny shriveled apples still attached are very prized, they get visibly excited to see them.

Planning to start sprouting soon, was hoping to have done so by now.

Curious what free range means? Is that a large colony or literally without borders?

You need borders to keep rabbits in and preditors out! To me it means not in small cage, access to ground and natural vegetation, freedom to run, jump, play, interacting with other rabbits. I have 6' fence(small hole) buried 18" in ground.

 

[tambayo]

Hay can last longer

Hay is also more stable nutrient wise than gras and dry. Gras can be pretty much so wet it is like a sealed drinking straw with water and that will give your rabbits an upset tummy. And that is without the risks of parasites. So if you cut gras leave the bottom 4-6 inches, drop it directly into a container and if it is very wet spring gras let it wilt for a few hours on a drying screen of some sort.

 

[Rabbit Warren Man]

I adopted a group of eight rabbits from a friend who relocated. Started with one buck, one doe and six babies (two adopted from another doe). I hope to tractor raise (though now I'm curious about free range rabbits) so began moving them towards foraged greens almost immediately. While I didn't take it as slow as recommended (was really just unaware) they have seem to have done okay so far. I've always been a fan of feeding a diet as close to natural as possible so research has taught me about tree hay and I've foraged weeds for my birds before. We are strapped for cash and I wanted to try to get five of our new bunch through winter for spring breeding opportunities, so I started collecting in late summer. Not just bundling fresh branches but pulling weeds and allowing them to dry in the sun. Our breezy, sunny area is great for drying things out quickly. I stuffed our detached storage area with hanging bundles and baskets of dried plant matter. All my edible garden plants were pulled and hung before the first freeze. We were also blessed to be given a large bale of locally harvested hay.

Now once a week I mix up a large tub of apple, willow, honey locust, mulberry and lilac leaves/twigs. Those and a large garbage can of hay get hauled into their enclosure for easy access. Smaller things like sweet pea and sweet potato vines, calendula, wheat, sorghum, dandelion, celery, kale, oregano, lemon balm, comfrey, catnip got mixed with dried veggies for food dish distribution.

I'm still giving some pellets as well until I learn what I'm doing but they definitely prefer everything else. Willow is a hit with all. Crabapple branches with tiny shriveled apples still attached are very prized, they get visibly excited to see them.

Planning to start sprouting soon, was hoping to have done so by now.

Curious what free range means? Is that a large colony or literally without borders?

Wow good to see you

Hay is also more stable nutrient wise than gras and dry. Gras can be pretty much so wet it is like a sealed drinking straw with water and that will give your rabbits an upset tummy. And that is without the risks of parasites. So if you cut gras leave the bottom 4-6 inches, drop it directly into a container and if it is very wet spring gras let it wilt for a few hours on a drying screen of some sort.

 

[Rabbit Warren Man]

I agree with what you’re saying, however spring grass is mostly water but after growing a couple weeks it becomes nutrient rich and stays that way until it matures then it will start to loose nutrients and become very fibrous. However native grasses can ripen on the stem and hold nutrients.
The window for hay season to get the best grass is relatively short when farmers make hay. They cure the hay in the sun. If baled to green it can light on fire spontaneously.
As far as parasites that does not worry me one bit. I add diatomaceous earth food grade to my feed and it keeps the bunnies healthy and parasite free.

 

[tambayo]

As someone commented somewhere on the subject of diatomaceous earth : "it needs to be dry to work and the inside of an animal is very wet". So i would be carefull about counting on that alone.

 

[Rabbit Warren Man]

As someone commented somewhere on the subject of diatomaceous earth : "it needs to be dry to work and the inside of an animal is very wet". So i would be carefull about counting on that alone.

Are you speaking from experience or what you heard?
You can mix Diatomaceous earth in juices, smoothies or water and it works great I take it myself, my dogs get and my rabbits get it. No worm problems in 10 years.

 

[tambayo]

Are you speaking from experience or what you heard?
You can mix Diatomaceous earth in juices, smoothies or water and it works great I take it myself, my dogs get and my rabbits get it. No worm problems in 10 years.

Healthy animals shouldn't need such, provided feed and housing are correct. And an animal that has a parasite problem needs medication, not boost the immunesystem/prevention stuff. And what makes you say no worms? Regular fecal tests (like few day in a row twice daily) or they just look, act healthy?

 

[Rabbit Warren Man]

Healthy animals shouldn't need such, provided feed and housing are correct. And an animal that has a parasite problem needs medication, not boost the immunesystem/prevention stuff. And what makes you say no worms? Regular fecal tests (like few day in a row twice daily) or they just look, act healthy?

My rabbits are free range and don’t live an existence in a 3x3 cage . I am not against that, but when the animal is a social animal that develops long term relationships in the heard like horses do, they are extremely happy and healthy.
Diatomaceous Earth is not some foreign chemical it is the fossils of diatoms that lived in the water. Diatomaceous earth has huge health benefits for all animals including humans. It will even remove viruses for the body. The pellets you feed and I am assuming you feed pellets are a boring unnatural diet for rabbits and is comprised of oats and alfalfa and many chemicals and vitamins that can become toxic.
My rabbits are extremely healthy and most of all the live as natural a life as I can give them. They are free to burrow climb run, jump up high.
The ones I feel bad for is when I buy a quality caged rabbit to add to my heard. The difference in muscle tone and just the overall behaviour difference in the animal is night and day. But after a while the muscle tone comes back and the animal snaps out of the glazed over stunned look it has after being raised in a cage. You can see the true spirit of the animal emerging and every time I see that it makes me happy and proud of my rabbits.

 

[Rabbit Warren Man]

As someone commented somewhere on the subject of diatomaceous earth : "it needs to be dry to work and the inside of an animal is very wet". So i would be carefull about counting on that alone.

Diatomaceous earth needs to be dry if you’re using it in your garden for insects with an exoskeleton, the nature of the diatomaceous earth’s wears hole in the exoskeleton and the insects dehydrate. However when an animal takes it internally for parasites the parasite ingests the diatoms it kills the parasite. It is totally nontoxic to humans or livestock.
The only thing you don’t want to do is breathe the dust into your lungs. Other than that is a very health addition to your diet.

 

[Rabbit Warren Man]

Only 6 seeds? I read that too so asked at feed store. He laughed at anyone counting seeds.Think that depends on life style. Kind of like what an athlete can eat and what a couch potato can eat. Mine get a big handful each, everyday (more when it's really cold) and have for a long time. I also have a bin of free feed pellets I fill once a week (another thing I read is a no no).They seem to NOT over consume those and seem to prefer the branches, hay, and other greens. But always have available. Don't seem overweight. Seem healthy, both does are nursing large healthy litters (9 and 11) I feel an abundance lessens competition and fighting. They also spend lots of time running, jumping. Lots of exercise and entertainment. still learning but this seems to work for me and mine

Love your set up! These are my first rabbits, lots to learn. I really want to keep them all together. Feels abnormal not to, but I just fenced the male out. The does have kits they're nursing and he's been a terrible pest. When they didn't cooperate he tore bald spots on their backs, one he wouldn't let eat without jumping on her. When I tried hand feeding her, he bit me. I don't know if all males are like this? Is he extra aggressive? They have been together for almost a year.was always a pest and a me first kind of guy. Thought maybe he had outgrown his teenage brat boy. They have water, hay and pellets in shelter. I give oats , greens, branches, outside in the morning when I let them out. I was pleasantly surprised to see him stand back and let does have first pick at the oats and greens after kits were born. But that only lasted about a week now back to super pest, so I fenced him out. You have 2 bucks in the herd! How do they act? Am I right in thinking about replacing him? Would other bucks be less aggressive? I don't like him alone, especially in our cold north Wisconsin winters. Would really like bucks that could live peaceably in a herd. Or at least some that could get along in a group of bucks living together. Am I hoping for something unrealistic? After waiting for kits that didn't happen was thinking shooting blanks and already thinking new buck come spring. Then had first litter in the -20* artic blast. Found 9 frozen kits. 2 more litters since then. One 9, one 11. All seem healthy and doing well. Born about 2 weeks apart Any advice is appreciated. Thanks

You need borders to keep rabbits in and preditors out! To me it means not in small cage, access to ground and natural vegetation, freedom to run, jump, play, interacting with other rabbits. I have 6' fence(small hole) buried 18" in ground.

I have a secure 3000’ square foot pen with bird netting on top. It has trees and shrubs and many hiding places. Within the pen is my main heard 8 Doe’s 2 bucks. My rabbits naturally stop breeding during the coldest months and this is controlled be the Does.

 

[dlynn]

I have a secure 3000’ square foot pen with bird netting on top. It has trees and shrubs and many hiding places. Within the pen is my main heard 8 Doe’s 2 bucks. My rabbits naturally stop breeding during the coldest months and this is controlled be the Does.

Thanks for the feed back. I already opened the fence and reunited the buck and does. He sat and pouted, wasn't eating. Didn't even go into shelter we provided when snow turned to rain. Just sat looking across the yard. The does didn't seem happy either. Spent more time inside, not as much exercise. When they came out it was often to sit at fence, nuzzling noses with him. Now they are all back to running, jumping, snuggling together. Will try to keep a few more does from these litters and hope that will help. Hope you inspire more people to let rabbits be rabbits. Thank you!

 

[Rabbit Warren Man]

Thanks for the feed back. I already opened the fence and reunited the buck and does. He sat and pouted, wasn't eating. Didn't even go into shelter we provided when snow turned to rain. Just sat looking across the yard. The does didn't seem happy either. Spent more time inside, not as much exercise. When they came out it was often to sit at fence, nuzzling noses with him. Now they are all back to running, jumping, snuggling together. Will try to keep a few more does from these litters and hope that will help. Hope you inspire more people to let rabbits be rabbits. Thank you!

You made my day. As you just mentioned the heard is happiest with the heard Buck(s) in place.
These are highly social animals that have heard structures the same as horses and cattle.
I can watch my heard from my back window and watch the interaction between the rabbits and I will be honest it gives me great joy.
I am happy I inspired you and I agree hopefully more people will follow, if they the area and resources to do so.
I am not against cages and I have had cages but for me this is a better life for the animals.

 

[theMarjolein]

Oh hey, I just noticed the recommendation for BOSS (black oil sunflower seeds). I used to feed a lot of those but they've gotten SO expensive lately (even though they're a significant crop here). They're high in protein, but also in fat, so you do have to exercise a *little* restraint. I'm going to grow a bunch of various sunflowers this year, dry them, and feed through the winter. We have a fenced back yard the deer don't jump, so that's the chosen spot. Texas would be an excellent place to grow sunflowers and prolly Manitoba too, with its long summer days. They're heavy feeders. Good thing we have rabbit poo.

All parts of the sunflower plant are good fodder but the foliage shatters easily when dry, so I'll need to take precautions that it doesn't get wasted. I can't wait till spring!

I dried the leaves of our sunflowers. Every few days I took 2 to 3 leaves off them with my daily garden walk. In the hot days, end of juli and august, they dried really fast and I could feed them this winter. It is a treat for them. Did the same with my calendula btw. Flowers and seed are much appreciated here!

But when the heat goes, the drying time is over here. Moldy leaves do not store well!